CountCunning's ROTK Build Thread (Jimmiroquai Kit)

[CountCunning]

Well, I've finally received my Jimmiroquai ROTK kit and washed it. Now the fun begins!

 

 

Since I don't currently have access to paint, primer, or a paint booth, I'm going to start working on the helmet. If anyone has any tips or tricks for drilling/cutting out the vents and teeth, please feel free to share! In the meantime, I'll be perusing other build threads to get some ideas on where exactly to start.

 

 

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

Looking forward to your build! I used a Dremel and some small files for the cutouts. It took patience, but Jim's helmet held up! I first coated the inside with resin for some extra strength though, so that may be the reason.

[CountCunning]

15 hours ago, DarthBiscuit said:

Looking forward to your build! I used a Dremel and some small files for the cutouts. It took patience, but Jim's helmet held up! I first coated the inside with resin for some extra strength though, so that may be the reason.

What sort of resin did you use? I'm pretty new to using resin in general, but I'd be happy to shop around for some.

 

Did you use the resin to cover over the raw fibreglass backing on the rest of armour pieces?

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I used Bondo 3004.7858 201224-4PK All Purpose Fiberglass Resin, 28.8 Fluid Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ODJ8J4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Sq1UaC3svrgCL. It was almost not enough, but yeah I coated the inside of everything for added strength and reduced itchiness! Use disposable brushes for it, otherwise you need something special (I forget what) to rinse your brush out (water doesn't work).

[CountCunning]

 

 

As I was dremeling out the teeth of the frown, I lost my grip on it and accidentally nicked the frown. Any suggestions for how to fill in that space? There's a lot of really fine work that I still need to do on the other cutouts, but I figured this little slip was a sign that I needed to stop working for the day.

 

 

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

You might be able to fill it with some Bondo. But then I'd probably try to coat it with fiberglass sheets and/or resin to make sure it holds.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Auto filler/bondo should be fine, just don't be too rough when sanding/filing. Also make sure you rough the area with some coarse sandpaper to give it something to grip too

[TheRascalKing[TK]]

I used a drill and small drill bit to put multiple holes in the frown/tube stripe cutouts, then jeweler's/needle files to connect them and remove the excess. I didn't trust myself with the Dremel - it's tricky, as you've found. I too used some extra resin on the helmet and a light coat on all of the armor panels, but used Fibreglast 1110 vinylester resin so it would remain flexible (and it has). Let me know if you have any questions about Jim's kit and check out my thread (in my sig) for some light reading when you get bored. It was an adventure haha

[TerribleBen[TK]]

Good luck on your build. Nothing like trooping a TK!!!!  I built an 850 kit so I'm not much help to you.  I will support you in spirit!  Just to add, I was challenged by the vents also.  Had to fill and redremel.  Looking back I should have practiced on some junk plastic first. Check out my thread if you want. Again good luck!  Have fun!!

Edited May 29, 2022 by TerribleBen

[CountCunning]

This thread has been quiet for a while due to dreaded Real Life, but rest assured that I'm still plugging away at the kit and there will certainly be some photo updates on helmet soon.

 

I have the opportunity to work on my kit at a Maker Faire here in Saskatchewan on the 25th, hopefully with the help of @wook1138, and I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for which steps I should take to start work on the armour. I haven't done anything at all to assemble or prep the rest of the kit and it seems like I could start just about anywhere. With that in mind, I don't want to take the whole kit with me because it'll be taking up too much space in transit. I'll be bringing my helmet, since I still have a fair amount of work to do on it, but I'd like to bring a couple of other pieces with me for a bit of variety. Does anyone have recommendations for which steps to take first? Would it be easy or prudent to start assembling the forearms or shins? I'm personally leaning towards reinforcing/coating the back of some armour pieces since I've read and learned firsthand that raw fibreglass is itchy and unpleasant on the skin.

 

Thanks, all!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Smaller pieces would no doubt be easier to transport but things like arm and leg pieces you will need your undersuit for fitting and sizing, a relatively easy one would be the detonator, perhaps also cod, butt plate, abdomen. 

[CountCunning]

18 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Smaller pieces would no doubt be easier to transport but things like arm and leg pieces you will need your undersuit for fitting and sizing, a relatively easy one would be the detonator, perhaps also cod, butt plate, abdomen. 

Thanks very much for the suggestion! That definitely gives me more of an idea for where to start.

[CountCunning]

After yesterday's Maker Faire troop, I have a much better idea of where to go with my kit. I'd like to back it with a two-part epoxy resin, but there are a lot of options for which kind to get. I've been thinking about opting for a medium-viscosity casting resin, but does anyone have other recommendations?

 

Thanks, all!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I use automotive resin and fiberglass matting to strengthen some 3D print pieces, has worked well, just can't add too much hardener as it causes a lot of heat.

[TheRascalKing[TK]]

21 hours ago, CountCunning said:

After yesterday's Maker Faire troop, I have a much better idea of where to go with my kit. I'd like to back it with a two-part epoxy resin, but there are a lot of options for which kind to get. I've been thinking about opting for a medium-viscosity casting resin, but does anyone have other recommendations?

 

Thanks, all!

 

I used a vinylester marine resin when coating mine. It still adds strength, but has some flex. Ensure you have tried on/mocked up the sizing on the suit and cut anything down that you need to first! The back of the ab, cod, butt panel, and underarm connectors required fitting for me. Wear a ventilator. 

[CountCunning]

On 6/27/2022 at 8:46 AM, TheRascalKing said:

 

I used a vinylester marine resin when coating mine. It still adds strength, but has some flex. Ensure you have tried on/mocked up the sizing on the suit and cut anything down that you need to first! The back of the ab, cod, butt panel, and underarm connectors required fitting for me. Wear a ventilator. 

Thanks for the recommendation! What sort of filters do you recommend for the respirator? Will P100 filters work, or is there a different kind I should use?

[TheRascalKing[TK]]

15 hours ago, CountCunning said:

Thanks for the recommendation! What sort of filters do you recommend for the respirator? Will P100 filters work, or is there a different kind I should use?

 

Just bought a freshie today actually. The Pro version's elastic is of higher quality and didn't wear out like my last regular one. You could get away with the dust type filters for the fiberglass, but the P100 and Paint filters are pretty multi-purpose and the Pro seals well around your face. Anything is better than paper masks/nothing.

 

https://a.co/d/0f1OgYx

 

 

 

[CountCunning]

16 hours ago, TheRascalKing said:

 

Just bought a freshie today actually. The Pro version's elastic is of higher quality and didn't wear out like my last regular one. You could get away with the dust type filters for the fiberglass, but the P100 and Paint filters are pretty multi-purpose and the Pro seals well around your face. Anything is better than paper masks/nothing.

 

https://a.co/d/0f1OgYx

 

Thanks again! I've got a half-face respirator already, but the cans I had for it are long past their expiration date. I'm mostly concerned about fumes from the vinylester. If the P100 cans work for filtering out those fumes, that's excellent news! I'll also be sure to work with that vinylester in a well-ventilated space. If I were to work on it outside, will heat or humidity affect the application of the resin?

 

 

 

[TheRascalKing[TK]]

1 hour ago, CountCunning said:

If the P100 cans work for filtering out those fumes, that's excellent news! I'll also be sure to work with that vinylester in a well-ventilated space. If I were to work on it outside, will heat or humidity affect the application of the resin?

 

Double check the spec sheet of the ones you get, but I wanna say the organic vapor catridges do just fine. The fumes are bad but the dust when cutting is awful for your lungs.

It absolutely is affected by temp and humidity - don't let them get to hot and warp by applying too much resin at once (thin layers) or letting them sit in the sun, most importantly. Mix your resin thoroughly (I double cup) and precisely according to the directions and apply to a clean, lightly roughed up (maroon 3M pad?) surface for best results. I tried putting resin over paint once and failed haha

[CountCunning]

This build thread has been getting pretty dusty, so I figured I'd get back into the swing of things now that the weather is warming up. I've been very slowly chipping away at making the helmet and armour wearable (photos incoming soon, I promise). Thanks to everyone who's given advice so far; it's been really helpful and I've definitely been putting it to good use.

 

As I've been working on my helmet I've noticed that there are some small pits along the frown line and other places with sharp lines. I feel like using Bondo on a couple of millimetre diameter pits is overkill, so on my last trip to the local hardware store I picked up this "putty pencil" that's used for filling drill holes in wood, panelling, and the like.

 

I asked an employee if it would work on resin and plastic and was told that it should because they use one in the store to cover up holes in plastic panelling all the time. Has anyone had experience using one of these on armour? Do they apply well, or am I better off just spot applying Bondo in really small amounts?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Interesting, I can't say I've seen that used, I guess it depends on how well it dries. For small lines/scratches I use blade putty, takes a while to dry but does dry hard 

[CountCunning]

4 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Interesting, I can't say I've seen that used, I guess it depends on how well it dries. For small lines/scratches I use blade putty, takes a while to dry but does dry hard 

I'll give a small amount of mine a try and I'll see how that goes, otherwise I'll be on the lookout for some of this blade putty. Thanks for the recommendation!

 

[CountCunning]

I was able to drop by a local fabric store and I picked up about 15 feet of 1" wide black webbing. I've been toying with the idea of using it as a strapping system, particularly to hold up my abdomen section, but I was wondering if the lack of elasticity in the webbing would be a drawback when trooping.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I find using elastic gives you more movement than using just nylon, it can be restrictive 

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

I had almost all nylon webbing when I originally built my costume and have switched almost everything to eleastic. The webbing tends to pop off the snaps when you move around since it does not stretch currently I have elastic on all connections of my torso except the side closures on the ab pieces.  My shoulders are nylon strapping but will soon be elastic when I get a chance as they constantly pop off when moving around.