fishgoh0nk Requesting Pre-Approval Review (ANOVOS)

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

Name:. James W.

Future Outpost: Southern California Garrison

Maker: ANOVOS

Helmet maker: ANOVOS

Belt maker: TKittell (Imperial Issue)

Neck seal maker: ANOVOS

Boot maker: Imperial Boots

Blaster maker: S&T (airsoft) with ebay T-tracks and m38 scope

Gasket maker: ANOVOS

Height, weight: 5'11 - 200lbs

Type: ANH Stunt

Special Thanks: @justjoseph63@ukswrath@TKSpartan@gmrhodes13@kman@TheSwede@CableGuy

 

Note: L3 says minimal gap - should I order larger shoulder bells? I think my chest (pectorals) won't allow for sub-inch gap with the current bells.

 

L3 - Slotted ear screws, vocoder repaint, 

 

L3 - White Rivets

 

L3 - Single snap unpainted

 

L3 - 45degree ammo belt corners

 

L3 - Belt ammo pack rear enclosed

 

L3 - T-Detonator using slotted pan screws 

 

L3 - 2 piece lenses

 

L3 - Silicone handguards

 

Ideally I would want to go to L3; but not sure what the approval format/order would be for the local garrison.

 

Thanks!

Edited November 30, 2021 by fishgoh0nk

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, on the shoulder bells you are closer on the rear than the front so you could adjust these to close the gap on the front. Having the snap point further forward on the shoulder strap elastic helps bring them forward.

 

Nice gaps all round, the only issue is your butt plate gap, you could try tighter strapping or even some V tabs

With a heat gun (or oven) you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

 

 

Your ab snap is a little low, may get picked up at higher levels

 

 

TD screws are a little on the large side, although may not be picked at higher levels

 

Hoping to see you approved very soon, good luck

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

9 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work, on the shoulder bells you are closer on the rear than the front so you could adjust these to close the gap on the front. Having the snap point further forward on the shoulder strap elastic helps bring them forward.

 

Nice gaps all round, the only issue is your butt plate gap, you could try tighter strapping or even some V tabs

With a heat gun (or oven) you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

 

 

Your ab snap is a little low, may get picked up at higher levels

 

 

TD screws are a little on the large side, although may not be picked at higher levels

 

Hoping to see you approved very soon, good luck

 

Thanks and thanks for the feedback!

 

Funny thing about the butt plate, I actually loosened the butt-plate with looser elastic, because what was happening was scrunching, where the butt plate was riding high and overlapping the belt.

I devised an additional butt sinching belt, maybe I can just make an inbetweener, between sizes of the original and extended straps.

 

Not sure how much closer to the front I can position the shoulder bell snap any closer to the front. I think to actually minimize the gap, the bell would have to be wide enough to cover my deltoid AND pectoral muscles. Are there any armor makers that have larger bells?

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 minute ago, fishgoh0nk said:

I devised an additional butt sinching belt, maybe I can just make an inbetweener, between sizes of the original and extended straps.

Are there any armor makers that have larger bells?

 

 

Strapping is a little too loose, perhaps try slightly tighter.

 

There are suppliers of larger shoulder bells but you want to make sure the color matches as there are a lot of differences in color from one armor maker to another. I still think rotating them a little would help but appears you can't go any further with your shoulder strap connection, perhaps try rotating your shoulders a little more forward when taking the photos.

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

Reshot with some placement of the shoulder bells rolled forward

 

Changed out to the v1 elastic loop.

 

 

Are these an improvement?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Much better, well done

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Looking great James!!  you're easy for basic and almost ready for higher levels, great work!!  

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

6 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

Looking great James!!  you're easy for basic and almost ready for higher levels, great work!!  

 

I just moved the snap on the right ab - it was off center because I trimmed the ab plate after I drilled and installed the snap, hence it being not far enough from the edge. After the abs reinforcement on the rear dries, I'll fill up the hole with paste and sand/polish.

 

 

Any additional things my armor would need for L3? Would this same forum section be usable for L3 pre-approval? Would I create a new post, but for L3 and include the layout from the Centurion photo checklist? 

 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

2 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

Looking great James!!  you're easy for basic and almost ready for higher levels, great work!!  

Thank you! Thank you all for the assistance. I definitely would've struggled a lot more had it not been for this community.

[Mworm1974[TK]]

Kit looks fantastic especially since you changed the butt plate gap well done and best wishes for approval.

 

I can’t remember if glen made comment but make sure you have someone help with positioning the armour when taking photos. 
 

after we start moving around everything changes and shifts but for approval photos we have a chance of getting great photos. 

[TheSwede[TK]]

On 6/7/2021 at 12:40 AM, fishgoh0nk said:

Ideally I would want to go to L3; but not sure what the approval format/order would be for the local garrison.

Looking good Trooper
At Garrison level you only get approved (basic) and the higher levels (EIB and Centurion) are done here at the Detachment. 

Apart from already beeing mentioned for L3 I would guess your belt need to come up a tad but you’ll never know, I would have requested it during my time as a D.O anyway, here’s a reference: (I was a picky one so you can just wait to see what the current ones say at your EIB)

 

Regarding the shoulder bells, here's a look at how an original bell looks side by side with a not so accurate one. The original (left) is trimmed with a curve hence beeing more suited for closing eventual gaps to the chestplate, not sure If you have enough left to trim yours but it might help others 

 

And finally, prepping the armor for approval pictures are what many do and that’s fine but....I strongly recommend everyone to film yourself when moving around to see how the armor holds up. Atleast I want to be sure that when I’m moving around and then stoppning for a picture my armor still look like it should 

 

Edited June 8, 2021 by TheSwede

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

13 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Apart from already beeing mentioned for L3 I would guess your belt  need to come a tad but you’ll never know, I would have requested it during my time as a D.O anyway, here’s a reference: (I was a picky one so you can just wait to see what the current ones say at your EIB)

 

Thanks Swede!

 

I think you missed a word in your sentence regarding belt. Come "up"/"down" a tad?

[TheSwede[TK]]

9 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said:

 

Thanks Swede!

 

I think you missed a word in your sentence regarding belt. Come "up"/"down" a tad?

Haha *oops* so I did the Word is ”Up” 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

25 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Haha *oops* so I did the Word is ”Up” 

 

I wonder if I can alleviate this by how I "wear" the belt. The pop rivets alignment on both the belt and ab plate were done with a plumb/parallel angle in mind, Maybe that's why in photos taken from top down angles the belt might seem low.

 

 

Perhaps I can wear the belt a bit looser or lower to achieve the desired look:

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

25 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Perhaps I can wear the belt a bit looser or lower to achieve the desired look:

 

Hi, What most Troopers do to solve this detail is to add a piece of velcro behind the Belt and under the buttons panel . 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

It's pretty common and happens to a lot of builds because of the angle of the kidney the belt wants to ride higher which drops the belt on the front.

 

If you wear the belt looser I think you will find the butt plate will come into contact with your detonator, you can see in your image the detonator is already pulling backwards, note how close it is to the butt plate.

 

Belts do sit quite high on the back, a little higher than how you have yours now.

 

             

 

Personally I would move the rivets so the belt sits a little higher at the front, this would also bring it up a bit on the back. But as Mario suggested you could try some velcro in the center.

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

17 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

It's pretty common and happens to a lot of builds because of the angle of the kidney the belt wants to ride higher which drops the belt on the front.

 

If you wear the belt looser I think you will find the butt plate will come into contact with your detonator, you can see in your image the detonator is already pulling backwards, note how close it is to the butt plate.

 

Belts do sit quite high on the back, a little higher than how you have yours now.

 

             

 

Personally I would move the rivets so the belt sits a little higher at the front, this would also bring it up a bit on the back. But as Mario suggested you could try some velcro in the center.

 

Thanks - Another post regarding belt height had indicated it shouldn't be TOO high, some wear the top of the belt covering half the lower button. How high is too high?
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26314-anh-stunt-belt-placement/

I have a couple of routes, let me run them by you:

1. Move the rivets on the ab plate (undo, patch, reinstall 5mm higher)

2. Move the rivets on the belt (pop buttons, cut rivets, punch new holes install new rivets, reinstall button)

 

I kind of prefer moving the belt rivets, just less potential for error.

 

 

Not really liking the velcro, I like the ab plate to be clean when the belt comes off haha

 

 

Edited June 7, 2021 by fishgoh0nk

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

5 minutes ago, fishgoh0nk said:

I kind of prefer moving the belt rivets, just less potential for error.

 

 

Not really liking the velcro, I like the ab plate to be clean when the belt comes off haha

 

 

I moved my belt rivets (or snaps in my case), I did sew a small amount of fabric over each of the old holes as well just to make sure the snaps never pulled through being very close to the original hole.

 

A few other references

    

[TheRascalKing[TK]]

Having someone competent adjust you during your photo session is probably all you need! Plus, I'd wait for officially required feedback from the DOs before making more permanent mods - it looks great! You'll likely need a new blaster for L2/3 though, as that one is accurate for Rogue One, but not ANH (though not required for Basic approval). If you end up getting a different one, let me know and I'll buy that one  

 

And just to be clear, to reach L3, you need to:

 

1. Submit to your local GML (Gary!) via email with just front/back/sides/helmet off photos
2. Wait for approval at basic and a TKID to be assigned to you

3. Once approved at Basic, post a new thread with the additional photos and info required here and request L2 Expert Infantry status

4. Receive feedback from the DOs, make any required changes, and receive approval at L2

5. Post a new thread here and request L3 Centurion status

5. Receive feedback, make any required changes, and receive approval at L3!

6. Party.

 

This particular Pre-Approval subforum is great for getting a gauge on your armor from people who KNOW stormtroopers, but doesn't have an official impact on anything. Hope that helps and good luck!

Edited June 8, 2021 by TheRascalKing

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

6 hours ago, TheRascalKing said:

Having someone competent adjust you during your photo session is probably all you need! Plus, I'd wait for officially required feedback from the DOs before making more permanent mods - it looks great! You'll likely need a new blaster for L2/3 though, as that one is accurate for Rogue One, but not ANH (though not required for Basic approval). If you end up getting a different one, let me know and I'll buy that one  

 

And just to be clear, to reach L3, you need to:

 

1. Submit to your local GML (Gary!) via email with just front/back/sides/helmet off photos
2. Wait for approval at basic and a TKID to be assigned to you

3. Once approved at Basic, post a new thread with the additional photos and info required here and request L2 Expert Infantry status

4. Receive feedback from the DOs, make any required changes, and receive approval at L2

5. Post a new thread here and request L3 Centurion status

5. Receive feedback, make any required changes, and receive approval at L3!

6. Party.

 

This particular Pre-Approval subforum is great for getting a gauge on your armor from people who KNOW stormtroopers, but doesn't have an official impact on anything. Hope that helps and good luck!

 

Thanks Justin! This makes the order of events much more comprehensive to me. I already emailed the GML on Sunday, holding tight and hopeful

 

Question about the blaster - I see that the CRLs indicate that the RO blaster can be based off the S&T airsoft, but I don't see anything that disqualifies the same replica being used for L2/L3 ANH? If anything, I can spot that the grips are edged differently between RO and ANH; am I reading wrong?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Correct the handles are both quite different.

 

Here are the two reference areas for OT and RO blasters, you will find the RO thread will mention quite a few differences. 

 

[TheRascalKing[TK]]

Good point - technically, as the CRL is written, it may pass. But it will be up to the DOs, who take more than just the wording of the CRLs into account, and the RO S&T does have several notable differences from the actual Sterling SMGs the ANH E-11s are based on, as Glen linked. I'll be curious to see what they say at L3!

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

2 hours ago, TheRascalKing said:

Good point - technically, as the CRL is written, it may pass. But it will be up to the DOs, who take more than just the wording of the CRLs into account, and the RO S&T does have several notable differences from the actual Sterling SMGs the ANH E-11s are based on, as Glen linked. I'll be curious to see what they say at L3!

 

Me too! Though I would be a little disappointed if we find out shelling 550 bucks wouldn't get ANH approval lol. Glad I'm an avid airsoft collector, it's a nice display piece. 

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Back when I was building my TK and doing my Blaster build prior the release of Rogue One I converted an Airsoft for ANH approval but it’s certainly not for the faint of heart!; 

 

[fishgoh0nk[TK]]

2 hours ago, SlyFox740 said:

Back when I was building my TK and doing my Blaster build prior the release of Rogue One I converted an Airsoft for ANH approval but it’s certainly not for the faint of heart!; 

 

 

AMAZING! I really enjoyed the posts, but I was a little disappointed getting to the end of the thread and there were no final photos! How did the story turn out??