Help: How to move backplate up and chestpiece down?

[Shears]

Hi all --

Did a first full suit up of my work-in-progress Anovos ANH Stunt. Shoutout to @ukswrath for the killer build thread. 

Having an issue -- the chestpiece is choking me out. It seems to slide up and into me, separating a bit from the ab piece. (please ignore the bucket strap, shoulder issue and protective plastic. yikes, and the bad job putting on gloves)

Here's a view from the back. Aside from the wonky strap, you can see how the backplate rides so low that my neckseal sticks out. It also makes my helmet seem like its floating a bit more than it should.

 

My strapping is from Mr No Stripes (plus a few extra snaps on the interior to keep my gut in.)

 

 

How would you recommend shifting things to get the chestpiece sitting lower while raising the backplate? I've toyed around with the lengths of the elastic connector straps, but nothing has made a difference so far in shifting the balance. The only thing I haven't really played with is the length of the cod strap - could that help? Any tips on this (or tips in general) would be most appreciated! 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Backplate would be dropping down as your ab is coming up. I would suggest tighter strapping between the ab and chest, if there is no room because of the brackets I would add additional chest strapping and keep the brackets for show

 

I use adjustable straps with my ab/chest connectors and snap plates

 

I don't have a photo handing of the inside so here is a similar one

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Fantastic job on your build Thomas

[TK-32700[TK]]

I agree with gmrhodes13, adding strapping to the chest will help. I have the same bracket system as you, but with added straps: 
 

 

I would also suggest that you reposition your helmet a bit. This will help with the floating in the back. When wearing the helmet, the faceplate should be at an angle pointing up.

Something like this: ( \
Not like this: ( |
And definetly not like this: ( / 
You want to push the helmet forward because that makes it easier to see out of the lenses. But resist this urge, the less you see the more correct it will look. 

[Shears]

On 5/4/2021 at 4:29 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

Backplate would be dropping down as your ab is coming up. I would suggest tighter strapping between the ab and chest, if there is no room because of the brackets I would add additional chest strapping and keep the brackets for show

 

I use adjustable straps with my ab/chest connectors and snap plates

 

 

Thanks so much, - this is super helpful. Def going to take this approach. 

[Shears]

On 5/5/2021 at 11:14 AM, ukswrath said:

Fantastic job on your build Thomas

 

Thanks man! Means a lot coming from you. Still got a bit of fine tuning to take care of, but I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. 

[Shears]

On 5/6/2021 at 6:41 AM, TK-32700 said:

I agree with gmrhodes13, adding strapping to the chest will help. I have the same bracket system as you, but with added straps: 

 

I would also suggest that you reposition your helmet a bit. This will help with the floating in the back. When wearing the helmet, the faceplate should be at an angle pointing up.

Something like this: ( \
Not like this: ( |
And definetly not like this: ( / 
You want to push the helmet forward because that makes it easier to see out of the lenses. But resist this urge, the less you see the more correct it will look. 

 

Thanks for your help! I really appreciate the visual - I'll be taking the same approach tonight. I'll let you know how it goes. 

And that's great feedback on the helmet. Just bought some helmet padding to fine-tune some how it sits on my head, but now that I have it in hand I'm not sure its right for what I have to do. I may also have to rethink how i'm balancing the electronics in there. Any tips on getting this to sit right? 

[ronhoffman2[TK]]

I was having the same problem. I used Mr. No Stripes strapping kit, but chest keeps coming up. For now I added strapping with Velcro and will try the fit a few times before I finalize it with snaps. So far, after initial fit, it was way more comfortable and I feel like the chest/abdomen overlap will stay put. Thanks for this thread, it was a huge help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JeffOn[TK]]

Hey guys.

 

i’m happy i found this thread!! I’m having the same issue. I have a RS Propmasters ANH self-build kit, including their straps.

 

So the chest plate is choking me even though all the straps are nicely tight. So i was thinking to create a gap between the kidney piece and the main back plate, which is sitting way too low anyhow, this would prevent me from chocking. 
But i guess that the 501st doesnt like seeing gaps between plates?

i’m a tall guy, 185cm or 6’1. The butt and kidney pieces sit nice and tight, but the back plate not at all, so adding a gap there would be my all in one solution. What do you guys think?

 

thank you :)

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

4 hours ago, JeffOn said:

Hey guys.

 

i’m happy i found this thread!! I’m having the same issue. I have a RS Propmasters ANH self-build kit, including their straps.

 

So the chest plate is choking me even though all the straps are nicely tight. So i was thinking to create a gap between the kidney piece and the main back plate, which is sitting way too low anyhow, this would prevent me from chocking. 
But i guess that the 501st doesnt like seeing gaps between plates?

i’m a tall guy, 185cm or 6’1. The butt and kidney pieces sit nice and tight, but the back plate not at all, so adding a gap there would be my all in one solution. What do you guys think?

 

thank you

Some images would help us for feedback. You shouldn't have a gap between the chest and ab plates, on the rear some gap is allowable for basic approval.

[JeffOn[TK]]

Hey, and thx for the answer.

Here is a picture which hopefuly helps explaining the problem.

1. the chest plate is currently detached from the ab plate for fitting purposes.

 

2. like this, the kidney and butt pieces sit perfectly, the ab plate too. Those 3 sit nice and tight. 
 

3. But the upper back plate sits wrong and hurts, and the chest plate is really choking me.

 

4. If i pull everything up to make the upper back plate fit, then my butt cheeks come out too much, and my crutch is squeezed.

 

5. The whole armor is built with the original bracket method, including the chest plate which is detached at the time of this picture.

 

6. So i don’t know what to move around, where to create gaps, what to trim; to make everything sit nice and tight, and to be 501st approved, maybe even level 2 or 3.

 

thank you guys

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

5 hours ago, JeffOn said:

But the upper back plate sits wrong and hurts, and the chest plate is really choking me.

 

Hi Jeff.

 

Looking at your photo, it looks like the Back plate could be reshaped a bit to fit more comfortable, how this could be done?

 

What I have done to fix this is to apply a "Hot water bath" to the section marked in the photo bellow and bend it upwards to give it a better shape.

 

Doing this , all the rest get in place nicely .  Good luck and looking forward for your advances. 

 

                                                                                        Reference Image

 

                       

 

 

[JeffOn[TK]]

Hey, 

 

I had that in mind too, sounds like the best solution. By hot water, do you mean almost boiling? Or simply hot tap water?

 

thank you

 

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

18 minutes ago, JeffOn said:

Hey, 

 

I had that in mind too, sounds like the best solution. By hot water, do you mean almost boiling? Or simply hot tap water?

 

thank you

 

Almost boiling and take care on not let the piece too much time into the water to avoid melting. Perhaps you can make a test first  with a scrap piece.  

 

[JeffOn[TK]]

Sounds good :p

 

thank you for your support, i’ll let you know how it ends up.

[JeffOn[TK]]

So i just tried that, and the ABS is not really bending. (RS Propmasters kit)

 

I put the area in freshly boiled water for about 2-3 minutes, then took it out and tried to bend it. I feel that the plastic is slighty softer, but it doesnt stay where im trying to bend it.

 

how important is the return edge on that area? I think that is preventing the bending. Should i trim it off?

 

what am i doing wrong?

 

thx

 

 

Edited May 31, 2021 by JeffOn

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

3 minutes ago, JeffOn said:

So i just tried that, and the ABS is not really bending. (RS Propmasters kit)

 

I put the area in freshly boiled water for about 2-3 minutes, then took it out and tried to bend it. I feel that the plastic is slighty softer, but it doesnt stay where im trying to bend it.

 

what am i doing wrong?

 

thx

 

 

 

The hot water method is a bit slow pace, you need to repeat the process again and again.  

 

 Personally I prefer the "Ninja Style" using a  Heat Gun but It needs to be done carefully because the piece can be damage.  You could make a test with a scrap piece too.

 

AGAIN: BE CAREFULL  

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

A heat gun does take some practice, plastic can go to movable to molten mess in the wink of an eye, less is more.

 

When using the hot water bath method, when you move a piece to were you want it go a little further and hold in that position until it has cooled, it will relax a little once cool, it's already been molded to a specific was so will try to return to that until completely cooled.

 

The brackets on RS don't allow for much movement, you may want to try some snap plates and elastic to give you a little more room.

 

A lot of the armors are really suited for those 6' and under so you are just over the limit so may need some gap on the back.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

I think I see what may be happening here.  The reason you probably are having difficulty bending the shoulder bridges is because of the return edges that are still present.  Bending of any sort is next to impossible when you still have the return edges intact.  It may be the photo angle, but it looks like you still have quite a bit on the tops, which looks to have an angle for some reason.  As seen in the reference image, return edges were pretty much non existent in those areas, and removing them would not only allow you to effectively bend them, but would actually be more screen accurate. 

 

 

                                                              Reference image

                                                    Note the difference in the angle

               

[JeffOn[TK]]

Hey.

 

so it finally worked, and i didnt have to buy  a heatgun.

 

1. I got rid of the return edge 

2. Applied some boiling water to the areas, to heat it up a bit.

3. Kept in the desired shape with some wood and fasteners.

4. Then i poured about 1 Liter of boiling water slowely on each side.

5. Let it cool down for roughly 2 hours.

 

the back plate has the perfect shape now. I might have to add a little gab between the kidney plate and the back plate, but thats about it.

 

thanx for your help guys, you’re amazing!!

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

On 5/31/2021 at 4:48 AM, JeffOn said:

....and the chest plate is really choking me.

 

It does look really tight against your neck, and you may end up having to trim it.  Again, it may be the photo, but it looks like the return edge may be the culprit. 

 

      

 

If you do end up having to trim it, here are a few tips:

 

1.  Trim in increments... just until it's comfortable.  Once it's gone, it's gone.

 

2.  If you have to remove all the return edge, be sure to glue in a one piece shim right behind it (gray area in the second pic).  Otherwise you may develop cracks.  I doesn't have to be thick, and you can use ABS scraps or even a white plastic "For Sale" type sign.  It doesn't have to be pretty, as so one sees the inside.    There is an example here that shows another method for someone who had a cracking issue.

 

Remember that "ideally" the front bottom of the helmet will cover the neck opening (as seen below) and the neck seal will provide some amount of padding, but in the end it's important to be comfortable!

 

 

I have a tutorial here on return edges that may come in handy.

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

7 hours ago, JeffOn said:

so it finally worked, and i didnt have to buy  a heatgun.

 

Great to read it mate!!   looking forward for your advances.  keep it up 

[JeffOn[TK]]

5 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

 

It does look really tight against your neck, and you may end up having to trim it.  Again, it may be the photo, but it looks like the return edge may be the culprit. 

 

      

 

If you do end up having to trim it, here are a few tips:

 

1.  Trim in increments... just until it's comfortable.  Once it's gone, it's gone.

 

2.  If you have to remove all the return edge, be sure to glue in a one piece shim right behind it (gray area in the second pic).  Otherwise you may develop cracks.  I doesn't have to be thick, and you can use ABS scraps or even a white plastic "For Sale" type sign.  It doesn't have to be pretty, as so one sees the inside.    There is an example here that shows another method for someone who had a cracking issue.

 

Remember that "ideally" the front bottom of the helmet will cover the neck opening (as seen below) and the neck seal will provide some amount of padding, but in the end it's important to be comfortable!

 

 

I have a tutorial here on return edges that may come in handy.

Thx!! That will be a great help!!!!