TK Monkus' RS Prop Masters ANH-S Build Thread (first build)

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I used snaps behind the rivets for splitting the armor for air transport, worked well. I did however shorten the posts of the rivets so they were just enough to split into the snap.

 

It's a bit hard to control heat with a hot water bath, I prefer a heat gun as you can apply heat to just one area. If you are stuck with a hot water bath then make a plug out of wood to sit behind the whole piece, then once warm press against with another block of wood and run forward/backwards until cooled.

 

 

 

 

 

[TK Monkus[TK]]

35 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

 

 

Hi Matt,  

 

1- For the to butt section, I would suggest to use a heat gun (carefully) you can make a test with some ABS scrap piece first.

 

2- I do use snaps for the AB/Kidney Connection with no issues.

 

 

This is how I did it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Mario. Do you find having a nylon strap there instead of an elastic is better?

 

M

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

2 minutes ago, TK Monkus said:

 

Thank you Mario. Do you find having a nylon strap there instead of an elastic is better?

 

Yes, mainly to help reduce the Ab/Kidney Gap.    I Used elastic first but It did not work. At least to me.  

[TK Monkus[TK]]

34 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I used snaps behind the rivets for splitting the armor for air transport, worked well. I did however shorten the posts of the rivets so they were just enough to split into the snap.

 

It's a bit hard to control heat with a hot water bath, I prefer a heat gun as you can apply heat to just one area. If you are stuck with a hot water bath then make a plug out of wood to sit behind the whole piece, then once warm press against with another block of wood and run forward/backwards until cooled.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Glen. Looks like its time to invest in a heat gun. Is there any specifics I should look for on it, or will any heat gun work for this? I am looking at not trying to spend to much but want to make sure whatever I get is sufficient. Here is the one I am looking at which says it can bend PVC.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-Furno-300-Heat-Gun-0503059/206723935

 

 

Thanks,

M

[TK Monkus[TK]]

1 minute ago, TKSpartan said:

 

Yes, mainly to help reduce the Ab/Kidney Gap.    I Used elastic first but It did not work. At least to me.  

 

Thanks Mario, good to know!

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

1 minute ago, TK Monkus said:

 

Thanks Mario, good to know!

You're welcome !.  

 

Pd: As you can see in the photos, I used just 2 snaps each side, but you can try with 3  depending on your adjustment preference.

 

Using E6000 allow to roll back  and change the system  if necessary.  

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

6 minutes ago, TK Monkus said:

 

Thank you Glen. Looks like its time to invest in a heat gun. Is there any specifics I should look for on it, or will any heat gun work for this? I am looking at not trying to spend to much but want to make sure whatever I get is sufficient. Here is the one I am looking at which says it can bend PVC.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-Furno-300-Heat-Gun-0503059/206723935

As far as I'm aware any generic heat gun should be ok, mine is just a cheapy from a local hardware store 

 

You could always post on your local garrison boards, perhaps someone can lend you one

[TK Monkus[TK]]

2 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

You're welcome !.  

 

Pd: As you can see in the photos, I used just 2 snaps each side, but you can try with 3  depending on your adjustment preference.

 

Using E6000 allow to roll back  and change the system  if necessary.  

Think I will try 3 and like you said with E6000 I can always make changes. Thanks!

 

1 minute ago, gmrhodes13 said:

As far as I'm aware any generic heat gun should be ok, mine is just a cheapy from a local hardware store 

Thanks!

[TK Monkus[TK]]

I went out and got a heat gun and boy is that what I needed! I played around with some scrap ABS and can see how this can be very dangerous. I would be wary right now to use this to shape bigger pieces, but can also see how over time and if you are comfortable this is an amazing tool to have. I was able to get all the ripples out which I am very happy about. See pic below for the result. 

 

 

Before:

 

After:

 

Thanks,

M

[Dielotski]

Regarding using wood blocks for helping the shaping of the return edges, Cricket made a jig that she used several times to recreate return edges and to flatten out the creases made from shaping those areas.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41502-crickets-wtf-hero-build-even-more-tk-for-the-vertically-challenged/?do=findComment&comment=592439

 

[TK Monkus[TK]]

8 minutes ago, Dielotski said:

Regarding using wood blocks for helping the shaping of the return edges, Cricket made a jig that she used several times to recreate return edges and to flatten out the creases made from shaping those areas.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41502-crickets-wtf-hero-build-even-more-tk-for-the-vertically-challenged/?do=findComment&comment=592439

 

Thanks Ray, that is very helpful!

[TK Monkus[TK]]

I got the snaps on and went with the nylon. The elastic had to much give and would leave a gap. I decided to only have 2 at the moment but made it so I can make one more snap to add in the middle if needed. I hammered down the rivets and painted the other side of them. 

I also finished up my belt and my TD. The lighting makes the belt look way more white than it is. It matches the rest of the armor, although the fabric belt itself is a little more white. It feels like things are really coming together!

 

 

 

Thanks,

M

Edited November 20, 2021 by TK Monkus

[TK Monkus[TK]]

I have been saving my shoulder bell final fitting until I had most of the upper body complete so I could properly size without having too much(if any) gap. I think I need to trim off a good amount still and this is about where I think it should go. The top up near my shoulder actually seems to be ok, so I am thinking of starting just above where my hand is in the picture (sorry for the odd placement). It would give the bell more of a curve, but I think would take it in to about where it should just match up with where the chest is. The back looks ok to me also so wasn't thinking of trimming there, but should I to keep everything even? In the pics I am wearing a sweatshirt under, not sure if that makes any difference.

 

Question: 

• I need to trim my shoulder bells some more to get them fitted properly and think I need to cut about where the red line is to keep no gap on the front, but don't really want to trim the back. Do I need to trim the back so all is even?

 

 

 

 

Thanks,

M

 

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi Matt, my very personal preference would be to trim the shoulder bell to the very end of your build, why for?

 

1. Once you have added the Shoulder bridges and strapping all in place, you will se how exactly they fit.

 

2. It's preferible to cut a bit more that add a mistaken trimmed plastic  .

 

 

 

 

[TK Monkus[TK]]

11 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

Hi Matt, my very personal preference would be to trim the shoulder bell to the very end of your build, why for?

 

1. Once you have added the Shoulder bridges and strapping all in place, you will se how exactly they fit.

 

2. It's preferible to cut a bit more that add a mistaken trimmed plastic  .

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Mario, I will continue on with the strapping. The last piece I have are the shoulder straps. I do have a question about the space between the chest and back plate, but see below. 

 

Thanks,

M

[TK Monkus[TK]]

I have almost all the strapping in place now. The last piece is the shoulder straps. I am wondering if the back and chest plate need to be a certain distance apart or if it is ok if they are closer as that seems to give me a better overall fit. The back plate sits more snug against my back and it pulls the armor up more where it should be. In the reference photos I have looked at it seems the back plate sits a little lower on the back, but not sure if it is really just to size. See some pics below for reference. I know the butt plate is overlapping the thighs. That will be one of the next issues I try and deal with. Also a reason I want the torso armor to sit higher, it pulls it up more.

 

Question:

• Is the small space between the chest and back plate ok or does that need to be a certain distance? In the RS video he says about 3/4", but if I have that much space the armor seems to sit a bit to low. Mine in the pics is about 1/2"

 

 

 

Thanks,

M

 

Edited November 22, 2021 by TK Monkus

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

9 hours ago, TK Monkus said:

Question:

• Is the small space between the chest and back plate ok or does that need to be a certain distance? In the RS video he says about 3/4", but if I have that much space the armor seems to sit a bit to low. Mine in the pics is about 1/2"

 

 

As you can se below, the distance looks ok.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TK Monkus[TK]]

I have the shoulder strapping in place and I think I am ready to size my shoulder bells.

 

There is actually not as much as I thought that needs to come off the front and back although I am wondering if I need to shorten the bell? It comes really far down my bicep and I think my bicep is in the correct place. See pics with red lines around where I think I would cut.

 

 

 

Thanks,

M

[Sly11[Admin]]

Looking sharp Matt.

You may consider trimming down a little more of the return edge on your chest plate, the bottom corner looks like it could use some thinning down.

[TK Monkus[TK]]

It has been way to long since I have done any work, but I was at a friends house last night and he graciously helped me with getting my shoulder bells properly sized. I do have some questions so see pics and questions below.

 

Looking at screen grabs the length of the bell coming down the bicep varies. In the shot below is a good example. Trooper on the left has more bicep showing, trooper on the right has less.

 

Since I have an RS suit I know one side is longer than the other. I would really like to avoid trimming the length of the bell. I think I have them both looking good while keeping the gap between the shoulder and the body at a minimum.

 

Questions:

• I am going to need to alter my forearm strapping, but should the bottom of the bicep be sitting just above the crook of my elbow?
• Is the length of the bell compared to the bicep ok? Is it more personal preference?
• I figured if I can get the shoulder bell/bicep connection set I can then alter the bicep/forearm strapping. I plan to add the little hook into the bicep for the shoulder bell strap to hold onto.

 

Just a note. In the pics below I am wearing a semi baggy black t-shirt so it is kind of sticking through at the chest gaps, those are not odd cuts in the shoulder bell.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks,

M

 

 

[TK Monkus[TK]]

On 11/26/2021 at 11:56 PM, Sly11 said:

Looking sharp Matt.

You may consider trimming down a little more of the return edge on your chest plate, the bottom corner looks like it could use some thinning down.

 

Thanks Andrew!

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

17 hours ago, TK Monkus said:

Questions:

• I am going to need to alter my forearm strapping, but should the bottom of the bicep be sitting just above the crook of my elbow?
• Is the length of the bell compared to the bicep ok? Is it more personal preference?
• I figured if I can get the shoulder bell/bicep connection set I can then alter the bicep/forearm strapping. I plan to add the little hook into the bicep for the shoulder bell strap to hold onto.

 

 

Hi Matt.

 

1- The Button of the bicep should go in a position that allow you to bend your arm when you carry your blaster.

 

   

 

Reference Image

 

 

 

The reference below can give some idea of the proportions.

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TK Monkus[TK]]

7 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

 

 

Hi Matt.

 

1- The Button of the bicep should go in a position that allow you to bend your arm when you carry your blaster.

 

   

 

Reference Image

 

 

 

The reference below can give some idea of the proportions.

 

    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Mario.

So it looks like the proportion of shoulder bell to bicep really just depends per trooper.

 

Thanks,

M 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

13 minutes ago, TK Monkus said:

 

Thanks Mario.

So it looks like the proportion of shoulder bell to bicep really just depends per trooper.

 

Thanks,

M 

Remember we have Trooper in all height and body type. 

 

 

[TK Monkus[TK]]

I glued in the strap on my shoulder bell and am very pleased with how it came out. I think the gap between the shoulder and chest/back is also acceptable for centurion? I realize I have some tweaks to still do on the body (butt plate, need to taper in the sides, alter the strap on one arm) and need to add my ab buttons and shoulder straps, but this being the first time I really had a fully strapped kit up was very exciting! See pics below and please let me know any thoughts on the shoulders.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks,

M