paradoxb3's ANH Stunt TK build thread (AM 4.5)

[paradoxb3[TK]]

Well folks, looks like it's finally BBB day!

 

Edited March 27, 2021 by paradoxb3

[paradoxb3[TK]]

 

The Scout (TB) is an old project that was never really built with the intentions of joining the 501st, so it's not currently approvable.  Maybe someday, but for now I intend to put all my effort into building my OT TK to L3 out of the box.

 

 

 

Just spreading things out, taking inventory of parts, and mentally trying to absorb the whole thing.

 

Of course I couldn't help but jump right to playing around with the helmet.  Isn't that like an unspoken rule?

[paradoxb3[TK]]

After a trip to Hobby Lobby for some paints and accessories, I have questions!

 

I have picked up the following paints:

Testors Model Masters French Blue

Testors #1147 gloss black (the 1/4oz bottle of #1747)

Testors #1138 gloss gray

Testors #1145 gloss white

 

I've read some varying discussion whether or not to use gloss or semi-gloss black for the vocoder, outlines, etc.  They were out of #1139 semi-gloss black, so is it acceptable to go ahead and use #1147 gloss, or should I wait until I can get ahold of some #1139?

 

Also, as many of you probably already know, the AM 4.5 kit comes with unpainted cast aluminum replica HOVI tips.  I had a difficult time finding anywhere which talks about the color of the HOVI's, I suspect assuming that most come already black and don't need painting (except for white interior/tip).

From another project, I have two cans of Testors spray enamel, #1247T Gloss Black, and #1249 Flat Black, if either would be acceptable.  I assume spraying the HOVI's may produce a cleaner appearance than brush painting.

Your thoughts?

For now I've started by beginning helmet rough assembly, masking, and spraying the interior with plasti-dip, as I prefer the black interior.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Great news on your BBB, exciting times ahead.

 

I've seen both satin and gloss black used so you should be ok, satin is the preferred color. Spraying is ok as long as you were to make sure you take everything so there were no runs or seeping under the masking, personally I just find it easier to just brush. You can find satin clear coat at most hardware stores so perhaps this could be an option after you have used the gloss black.

 

Normally hovi's come as white and the outer is painted black (leave the rim white), again I've seen gloss and satin black used but satin is preferred.

 

Looking forward to seeing the progress

 

      

 

[paradoxb3[TK]]

So I drove to a Michaels a town over and found semi-gloss #1139, so I'm back in business! 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi Devin, congratulations for your BBB day, looking forward for your advances .

  Post tons of photos , ask questions and remember "measure twice or more, check the reference images, cut and glue just once".

 

Good luck ! 

[paradoxb3[TK]]

I still have some painting and touchups to do, but while I wait on ear paints to dry, anyone care to let me know how the helmet is looking so far?  I don't know if I'm satisfied with the mouth and vocoder, but freehand painting is NOT one of my strong suits.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I tried to get the ear gaps as minimal as possible, but there's still a little present:

 

 

Interior:

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi Devin, great advances with your helmet ! 

 

The vocoder looks good as you can see in the references , and the ears small  gaps are normal 

 

       

 

 

and the ears small  gaps are normal 

 

          

 

 

If I can make some suggestions :

 

The teeth paint can be improved a bit as per the crl for basic approval. just a couple of minutes with a pointed tool to remove the excess of paint.

 

CRL: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area...

 

 

 

If you are planning to go for higher levels (EIB and Centurion) you may want to move the  tube strips a bit closer to the cheeks.

 

 

CRL : Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek.

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

keep on doing a great work.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[paradoxb3[TK]]

@TKSpartan Thanks for your input!  Yeah I'm not quite finished with the paint, so I plan on touching up some of the lines.  I'm not entirely sure how clean they need to be, as "hand painted" implies a lack of perfection to me, so I suppose it's a thin line, pardon the pun.  Shucks on the tube stripes, though.  As I read the CRL it said they are ideally a pencil width from the cheek and fall towards the front if I'm understanding that correctly.  I actually used a pencil at the rear as a spacer but maybe my fall was too aggressive (or I'm misunderstanding the wording of the CRL).

 

I'll keep tweaking on it, but all this tedious fine tip painting is nerve-racking, and I'm about ready to start working on some other parts!

[Greg S[TK]]

Congrats on BBB. Looking forward to your progress. Yes like they say lots of pics. Measure 3 times cut once. If trying for centurion. Follow some of the build and submission pages. Good luck. 

Helmet looks great just those little paint details as mentioned. 

[Greg S[TK]]

Also I would suggest you pick up as many Rare Earth magnets as you can. And some clamps. These will help assembly greatly. I also suggest using E6000 glue. Approx 4-5 tubes. 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Nice work so far Devin 

[paradoxb3[TK]]

Thanks guys.  I picked up a couple tubes of e6000 already and some clamps and magnets, though I may end up needing more.

[Greg S[TK]]

7 minutes ago, paradoxb3 said:

Thanks guys.  I picked up a couple tubes of e6000 already and some clamps and magnets, though I may end up needing more.

Cool I used around 4 1/2 tubes of E6000. Don't want to skimp on the glue. You will get some seep from the cover strips etc. But it can be easily removed. Let dry for at least 24 hrs under clamps and magnets. Longer if a high stress area. This method takes awhile but is worth it if you have to make adjustments. 

More magnets the better you can double stack them for a stronger hold. Also I wrapped mine in a layer of blue tape so they won't scratch the armor. Also protects them from shattering.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I normally use one and 1/2 tubes of E6000, but that's after building a few sets of armor over the years  

[Sly11[Admin]]

Very clean job of the helmet so far, looking forward to seeing the progress.

[paradoxb3[TK]]

So I figured it was way past time to do an update.  I know it's been a while.  To be truthful, I work in IT and most days the last thing I want to do is sit down at a computer posting on forums about my kit as opposed to just working on it.  Shortly after I began cutting, trimming, and dremeling, I had to relocate my work area to my under-construction bar room where the plastic mess that was beginning to accumulate would blend in with the sawdust.  But regardless I have been hard at work nibbling away return edges, mating pairs of parts, sizing them up, and cover stripping them together.  I'm not much of a visual storyteller like some other builders here, but regardless, here's a few pics of my progress.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gluing up more cover strips and snap plates.

 

 

It had been pointed out that my painting of the frown could use some cleaning up as I'd went beyond the teeth area.  I'm hoping my touchups are now acceptable.  Painting is far from my favorite part of this build.  I haven't addressed anything about the tube stripes yet.

 

 

Here's a question I have.  What should, if anything be done about this misalignment on the rear shin cover strips?  It doesn't lay flat when closed flush.  Is this an issue?  Should I heat up the plastic and attempt to flatten it out?

 

And finally a simple one...  I've seen rounded cod pieces and squared ones, and I'm unsure if I should keep this round or square it off.  I'm not quite sure which is more screen accurate.  Any thoughts?

 

Edited April 11, 2021 by paradoxb3

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, just check your dimensions on the detonator as you don't seem to have much of a gap between the endcaps and panel

 

Teeth area looks much better

 

Using a hot water bath should help to flatten the rear strip, a common issue on most kits

 

Cod reference, I left mine slightly pointy

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

On 3/29/2021 at 9:55 AM, paradoxb3 said:

As I read the CRL it said they are ideally a pencil width from the cheek and fall towards the front if I'm understanding that correctly.  I actually used a pencil at the rear as a spacer but maybe my fall was too aggressive (or I'm misunderstanding the wording of the CRL).

 

It didn't look like anybody ever answered this question regarding the "fall" of the tube stripes, so here it is. The "fall" actually refers to the lean/sweep of individual stripes, not the distance of the stripes from the cheek crease above. Screen-used stripes had a forward slant at the top, which the photos below illustrate. I've also added a link to Dan's thread below, which has these same illustrations. For your particular situation, since your stripes are symmetrical, with no lean/fall, so there's no need for you to take the fall into consideration. And all the stripes should be equidistant (a pencil's width) from the side of the cheek, as opposed to angling further away as you originally interpreted the fall. No worries though, wording can often be confusing, and you're doing a great job on your build! Keep it up!

 

 

 

 

 

[paradoxb3[TK]]

6 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said:

 

It didn't look like anybody ever answered this question regarding the "fall" of the tube stripes, so here it is. The "fall" actually refers to the lean/sweep of individual stripes, not the distance of the stripes from the cheek crease above. Screen-used stripes had a forward slant at the top, which the photos below illustrate. I've also added a link to Dan's thread below, which has these same illustrations. For your particular situation, since your stripes are symmetrical, with no lean/fall, so there's no need for you to take the fall into consideration. And all the stripes should be equidistant (a pencil's width) from the side of the cheek, as opposed to angling further away as you originally interpreted the fall. No worries though, wording can often be confusing, and you're doing a great job on your build! Keep it up!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks so much for the clarification.  I was still a little lost on the meaning of the "fall of the tube stripes" considering the decals that came with Dave's AM kit are symmetrical.  There's been at least a couple of times that the wording of the CRLs has tripped me up, and I don't think I'm the only one.  I also recall "Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. A total of 8 cut outs in the teeth area of the frown are present." confused me, as I thought "does not leave the teeth area" referred to the 8 holes being cut out and not that the paint shouldn't extend beyond the teeth.  Anyway, I may attempt to use masking tape to lift and readjust my tube stripes so I don't have to move them one at a time, or order more.  For now I've moved on from the helmet to armor assembly and strapping.  I glued up my last 2 cover strips last night.  Things are hopefully about to start coming together.