ESB TK WIP - UKG - first build - hoping for centurian

[Short4ATrooper]

How long did you leave it for and how did you prepare the surfaces? The new E6000 has...mixed reviews. I use Gorilla Glue, this one:



It’s just as forgiving as E6000 and should be tightly bonded after 24 hours.

When I’m glueing cover strips, I sand the back of the cover strip with 120 as well as the area on the arm/leg piece. I also lightly score the back of the cover strip with a blade. Already the glue evenly on the cover strip and apply a few small beads to the limb. Leave a minute or two before you apply the strip, then leave clamped for a minimum of 24hrs.

Temperature is also a factor. Make sure it’s not too cold where you are leaving the pieces to go off or it’ll take longer to fully set.


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[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Thanks for this.

I always leave for 24 hours in the warmest room in the house, but this is the first time anyone has said to me about sanding or scoring the surfaces (obvious now you say it!). I have armour from RWA in UK, and he doesn't mentioned it in his videos. Think that's going to be the trick.

Now I'm worried about the other pieces I've already glued (guess they're not a problem till they're a problem ).

I have some gorilla glue clear contact adhesive too. Do you think that might be a better idea given that the shin needs to be flexed more than other parts to take it on and off?

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[Short4ATrooper]

I don’t think the sand and score approach is necessarily a ‘must do’ but it’s more of a belt and braces type of thing that should result in a stronger bond if you are having trouble. I have an RWA TK and a TX and it’s what I’ve done with both kits. Ross most likely doesn’t mention it in his videos because he uses a much stronger and less forgiving glue called Stelmax.

For the shins, if you’re worried about the added stress from opening the backs, I’d add an internal cover strip at the front. It’s what I did with my TK and although I haven’t trooped with it yet, I’ve worn them multiple times for the clearance process and they certainly feel strong and sturdy.


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[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

I added an internal strip there too for the same reason. Thanks for all of this. Really appreciated

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I always sand both pieces before applying E6000, can take longer than 24 hours to dry fully too, I normally leave for 48 hours before applying any pressure to glued areas. 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

On 4/9/2021 at 11:58 AM, CallMeMrTibbles said:

I'm thinking I may need to replace the xl butt and back with standard size

 

I have to start by saying AWESOME job on removing those return edges! 

 

As I see it, the back plate needs to come down at least 2cm so that the tabs sit on your shoulders.  Doing this would obviously require the kidney and butt plate to be lowered which would throw everything out of whack, so if you can get a back plate that is shorter that may be the answer.

 

           

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Thanks Joseph. I'm a tall fella (6'4") so thought ordering the tall back would be right for me, but it just doesn't feel right, and what you're saying makes a lot of sense. Thanks

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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

4 hours ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:

I always leave for 24 hours in the warmest room in the house, but this is the first time anyone has said to me about sanding or scoring the surfaces (obvious now you say it!). I have armour from RWA in UK, and he doesn't mentioned it in his videos. Think that's going to be the trick.

In my case, I usually let 48 hours dry  for forearms, thighs and shins cover strips. don't let it in warm room, it's better in normal/fresh weather . 

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

In my case, I usually let 48 hours dry  for forearms, thighs and shins cover strips. don't let it in warm room, it's better in normal/fresh weather . 

Ah, OK. I'd only heard don't have it in a cold room. Cool. Thanks

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[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Morning all,

Another test torso fitting, but with the undersuit.

Things that need sorting out.

Back piece:
Shorten the shoulder tabs, and bend them in using a hot (not too hot) hair dryer.
Would need to trim the bottom at the sides where it overlaps the sides of the kidney plate. What I think it actually needs is replacing with the standard size back plate (currently xl)

Butt:
Heat the sides and bend in, as when viewed from the front they stick out and create a gap. Again, proper solution is to get the standard size part (currently xl), as aside from the gap it feels baggy all over, and I think when the crotch strap is fitted it will pull out of line.

Chest:
Scoop out the neck line just a little. It feels like it's sitting in the right place, but is a little uncomfortable in how much it pushes against my throat (and that's without the added thickness of the neck seal, which I don't have yet).

Everything else feels OK.

Thoughts?

(Edit: sent Ross at RWA these pics and after a chat the back and butt in standard size have just been ordered)

(Also, excuse the accidental nazi salutes )



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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

looks good, once you make the strapping , you will see things getting into place. great work!! 

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Possibly going to fit bra hook closures to one of my shins tonight. Are there correct measurements for holes and hook placements to be screen accurate?

(And yes, my sewing improved at the end!)

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

No actual measurements but here are some references 

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

No actual measurements but here are some references 

That's great, thanks . Just found the trooper bay video too, should be good to go for the first shin tonight

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[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Before I paint the grey buttons, have I painted the blue ok for centurian? Ta

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

On the advice of my UKG armourer I've removed some of the paint

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looks much nicer

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Re-sewn for accuracy.
Also shown, spring hook tool, to make the shins easier to fit

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[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

The dreaded sniper knee

Was (like everyone) struggling with how to do this.

Method I'm halfway through is to glue the centre of the knee first. Did that on Fri and left for 72 hours.

Now that is stuck solid I'm gluing 'the wings' and holding them firm with welders c clamps, using cut offs of cover strip for protection.

So far, so good. The glue in the centre is holding under the strain, and the clamps are strong enough to hold the sides down.

May get a hair dryer to soften where it's bending to lessen the strain a little (now, and for after the glue has set).

Using gorilla glue clear contact adhesive for everything now, as the e6000 plus is frankly very poor and I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole (just my opinion).

[Short4ATrooper]

You’re doing it the right way. My sniper knee was tough to get on, it just seemed to be fighting against me in every direction! The key is patience. Leave it clamped for as long as you can and you should be ok. Seems like you’re in the right track if you were able to leave the centre for 72 hours. Same again for the sides and you should be golden!


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Depends on the armor maker, some are a little easier than others, I used magnets, clamps and masking tape to get it to sit just right, I also didn't take off any of the clamps for 72 hours, the longer you leave the E6000 to dry the better.

[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Depends on the armor maker, some are a little easier than others, I used magnets, clamps and masking tape to get it to sit just right, I also didn't take off any of the clamps for 72 hours, the longer you leave the E6000 to dry the better.

Armour is from RWA in the UK, and its 2mm abs. The glue is the newer e6000 plus, and on other parts of the armour I've left for 72 hours (leaving all parts that long) it still just didn't hold. Wish I could still get the original e6000 (you know, the toxic stuff) more easily in the UK. The gorilla seems to be holding really well though

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[Short4ATrooper]

One good place for the new E6000+


In the bin! Seriously, bin it off and just use the gorilla glue.


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[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Yep. Pretty much

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[CallMeMrTibbles[501st]]

Fears confirmed. The clamps were too tight and left a mark in the sniper knee, and to make it worse the glue didn't even hold properly. I've removed it and stripped off the glue, and ordered a replacement one in thinner plastic (rather than the 2mm in the pics) in the hope that it'll flex into shape better.

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