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Posted
I didn't see how you handled that hole on the underside of the grip.  Not sure how to go about it, what drill size or what the deal is with that. Loving your build and using it as a guide as there are no instructions.  Thusfar I've found this can take a very long time to build putting just a little time in with it over a period of time.

Hi Rodney,

I used a drill bit that was almost the same size as the resin “hex screw” that goes into the bottom of the grip. Then, after painting, I glued the hex screw/bolt into the grip.

Here’s the relevant part from the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?do=findComment&comment=414148

Are you referring to this Blaster Reference for ideas?
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Posted
19 hours ago, CableGuy said:


Hi Rodney,

I used a drill bit that was almost the same size as the resin “hex screw” that goes into the bottom of the grip. Then, after painting, I glued the hex screw/bolt into the grip.

Here’s the relevant part from the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?do=findComment&comment=414148

Are you referring to this Blaster Reference for ideas?

Got it.  I am going to need to go deeper as the head of the hex screw is still well out of the hole.  I may just pick up a longer length hex screw so that I may be able to put a nut on the inside if there's enough meat in between...unclear yet.

Posted
1 minute ago, Zinfer said:

Got it.  I am going to need to go deeper as the head of the hex screw is still well out of the hole.  I may just pick up a longer length hex screw so that I may be able to put a nut on the inside if there's enough meat in between...unclear yet.

I've seen some people tap the hole so they can thread the bolt in so it locks in place.

 

Some just cut the head size down and glue in the hole.

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, Troopacoola said:

A 10mm bit will open it up emoji106.pnge0bb7324699d4f5f59cf090aeb68fee2.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

Thank you Sir!  Did you find there was enouph material left to put a nut on the inside?  Or just glob it with glue down in there?  I've feeling there won't be much material left on the inside for any threading.  That screw hole kind of cones outward on the inside.

 

Edited by Zinfer
Posted
3 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I've seen some people tap the hole so they can thread the bolt in so it locks in place.

 

Some just cut the head size down and glue in the hole.

Well there's an option.  I suppose I could grab the threads with plyers and use my bench grinder on the head of it, but it is hardened steel.  It'll remove the finish but it'll be painted anyhow.  Kind of a brute move but c'est la vie.

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Posted
Thank you Sir!  Did you find there was enouph material left to put a nut on the inside?  Or just glob it with glue down in there?  I've feeling there won't be much material left on the inside for any threading.  That screw hole kind of cones outward on the inside.
 
The grip is a direct cast, so the internal features are exactly the same as the original. I drill the hole out with enough depth to accommodate the hex bolt and then glue in situe

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm sorry, I'm missing what type filler to use on some minor imperfections.  I still need to pick up a metallic Silver and Brass.  Apparently there's a shortage of paints here in the States.

Posted

I think it's called "Green Stuff" in the States. In the UK I use milliput which is a 2 part epoxy putty.

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Posted
I'm sorry, I'm missing what type filler to use on some minor imperfections.  I still need to pick up a metallic Silver and Brass.  Apparently there's a shortage of paints here in the States.

Hiya,

Yes, I’ve used both Green Stuff and Milliput in the past, both work really well. It starts soft and allows you to shape it to the parts, then dries hard ready for sanding.

Dan
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