Swannee's Pre-Approval Thread

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Don't forget to add a cut-out/step to the top of the ear as it allows the ear to come in more at the top. 

 

Just remember where ever it's touching you will need to sand to reduce gaps elsewhere

 

[CT 1977]

Thanks, Glen. I can use all the tips I can get. My thought on the step was that I was going to wait until I felt comfortable that I knew pretty much the precise area that the year was gonna go to cut that in. Thoughts?

[CT 1977]

On 5/10/2024 at 5:20 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

I think you are a bit stuck with those holes as they are quite high, you don't want to remove too much lower rim because this allows younglings to look up inside the helmet. I would glues some scrap abs behind those holes then fill with ABS paste, sand with wet dry sandpaper and use water, stops the sandpaper from clogging, use varying grits and finish polishing.

I wouldn't trim more than this.

 

If you trim here the gap should be reduced, albeit I think it would pass as is

 

Would also be interesting to see the angle of your ears, although "ideally" they should follow the angle of the rear traps, this is only a suggestion and not a must.

 

Nice work BTW, I think these are saveable, little bits at a time.

 

I had "trigger fingers" sticking tendons in the hands so know exactly what it's like having finger issues  Surgeon said he'd never seen anyone with trigger fingers on the middle fingers on both hands, told me to stop flipping the bird to people 

 

 

In this position, I get the best fit along the tube, but is that too much edging showing? The next photo will be with the ear covering up the entire seam but with a substantial space between it and the tube.

 

See below - even when I press down on the ear as I'm doing here, that's the best I can do with completely covering up the seam. Also, the back of the 

In this position, the back is a little better, maybe even workable but in person vs the photo, the gap seems worse...in person. 

 

Let me know your thoughts. The right ear came along really well, this one I really screwed up. Also, on a previous post you mentioned posting on WTB to see if anyone had extras...I'm not familiar with that abbreviation. Can you provide me a link? Sorry to keep hitting you up like this, I really appreciate your help.

[CT 1977]

Hey Glen, hold off on comments on my questions above. I just measured and found the tube on the left side is 7mm lower, or away from the top than it is on the right side. I'm going to drill out the rivets and do what I can to put it all back together so that it looks acceptable.

[CT 1977]

20 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Don't forget to add a cut-out/step to the top of the ear as it allows the ear to come in more at the top. 

 

Just remember where ever it's touching you will need to sand to reduce gaps elsewhere

 

I think I found the problem. As I mentioned earlier, the left tube is 7mm lower than on the right - see below. I'm going to drill out the rivets and then realign and re-rivet. I've got tracings and two marks to show the reposition as well as a mark 7mm below the left-side rim.

 

 

its going to be a bit tricky in moving it so as to be sure to maintain equal brow alignment. 

[CT 1977]

1 hour ago, CT 1977 said:

I think I found the problem. As I mentioned earlier, the left tube is 7mm lower than on the right - see below. I'm going to drill out the rivets and then realign and re-rivet. I've got tracings and two marks to show the reposition as well as a mark 7mm below the left-side rim.

 

 

its going to be a bit tricky in moving it so as to be sure to maintain equal brow alignment. 

 

MUCH BETTER!! I was able to realign without changing the brow. You can see my mark made prior to the realignment. 

 

THIS, I can work with. There's a bit of a gap at the tube bend but I feel like if I take a bit more off the top of the round part it will lower the overall level. Of course, your tips are invited!

 

Edited May 16 by CT 1977

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You can trim this piece straight down, grey line. Red is where you add the step

 

ATA is like that, different sides/gaps, here's mine L3 approved, note the material between ear and brow trim

 

 

[dblcross[TK]]

52 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

You can trim this piece straight down, grey line. Red is where you add the step

 

ATA is like that, different sides/gaps, here's mine L3 approved, note the material between ear and brow trim

 

 

Nice weathering Glen! Bill, your helmet ears are looking great! I screwed one of my first sets up and had to order new ones.

[CT 1977]

On 5/16/2024 at 5:14 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

You can trim this piece straight down, grey line. Red is where you add the step

 

ATA is like that, different sides/gaps, here's mine L3 approved, note the material between ear and brow trim

 

 

wow, that is really cool...great information. Will get that done. thanks.

[CT 1977]

On 5/16/2024 at 6:08 PM, dblcross said:

Nice weathering Glen! Bill, your helmet ears are looking great! I screwed one of my first sets up and had to order new ones.

Thanks, Terry.  That kind of encouragement goes a long way. Thanks for helping.