ATA ANH Stunt Build

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

Hey all! So, I finally got my ATA kit ordered, and he was kind enough to send the bucket out before the rest of the kit so I could get started on that. Not my first TK bucket build, but after my last one ended up as more of a display piece than anything approvable, I’m taking this one a tad slower.

 

 

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

Bucket has been trimmed! Now for the ears. Oh god.

 

Anyway, does this look good to y’all? Yes? No? Maybe so?

 

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Off to a good start there! The key is to take things slow, careful and methodical. My own ATA build is taking quite a while, though I’ve very carefully documented it extensively over the past year. Check out my ATA build and general TK reference resources linked in my signature, if you want to see my process.


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

There's some nice build threads around great for referencing

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/14806-how-to-assembling-ata-abs-helmet-1/

 

Also for ear fitting

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/41250-ear-trimming-made-easy/

 

Brow height

 

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/ukswrath1/DO/Screen%20Reference/gallery_14191_25_57708.jpg

 

Angle of ears

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hey Brady, looks like you have had a good start. Take a look to the links Glen provided, they will be a good guide.

 

Remember : "Measure twice or more, cut and glue just once"

 

Good luck ! 

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

Thanks all! My kit just showed up today, actually!

I figured I would start at the top and work my way down, so after I’m done with the bucket I’ll get started on chest, back, and shoulders.

 

Has anyone compiled measurements for what the return edges should be on every part? Would help me a lot when trimming.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

When it comes to return edges, it all depends on your preference.  Some troopers like to keep a lot of them to give that "thicker" look to the armor, but in fact the armor in the films had little to none on many of the various pieces.  Return edges can cause "armor bite" in many cases (especially in the groin area),   I have a tutorial here that may help with your decisions, but always feel free to contact me if you have any questions.!

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

My camera lens is kinda screwing with the perspective/proportions, but my bucket is assembled even after what I thought might be a couple of fatal errors! Turned out far better than last time, even if it’s far from perfect. Just aiming for basic approval, though.

 

I’d rather build my TIE chest box over again 10 times before shaping another ear.

 

As I wait for my new canisters of paint and some accessories to arrive, I’ll get started on the chest and back!

 

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

Couldn’t wait. Pajama Trooper reporting for duty.

 

Also trying to decide how much of a return edge I want on the chest plate. I trimmed to the mold line and left a thick edge, thinking I might trim it down significantly.

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Hey Brady,

Great start! And some super advice above. :-)

Depending on how “deep” you want to go into the finer details (I’m a bit obsessive over the little touches), there are a couple of things you could consider for that out and out ANH Stunt feel.

Firstly, you could consider squaring off the eyes a little. Example below;




The mesh on your Hovi tips could sit at the front, rather than recessed;




If your helmet kit came with two sets of ears, you could consider trimming one set down a little more. As it stands, yours are a little thicker than screen used which makes the helmet appear wider.
Trimming the ears, as suggested below, would require the whole ear cap to drop down a little, so new holes would need to be drilled;




The lower ridge on the chest is where you might leave up to 10mm, for example, as that’s where the originals have the bracket system. The sides, highlighted below, could be trimmed to perhaps 3-5mm return edge;





Reference of a screen used suit and that lower chest return edge;





If it’s helpful, I covered many of these areas in a recent video along with reference photos and descriptions. Here’s the link;

ALL of the above are just suggestions, or things to consider. None of these is mandatory. :-)

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

Thanks for the input! I’ll definitely work on what was suggested.

I’m actually having a difficult time deciding whether or not to keep it clean or go ahead and make this a TD build. Would save me time on the belt dropboxes and the thermal detonator and I absolutely love weathering. As far as I’m aware, the main differences between the two (Build wise) are: 

TD has no detonator, holster, belt dropboxes, or painted ab buttons.

TD has white canvas shoulder straps.

TD has pauldron and ammo pouches.

TD has the hexagonal sniper knee plate.

TD has additional rivets in several areas that are not on the TK.

 

Anything I’m missing?

 

Edited February 18, 2021 by TD_Dusty

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

After redoing some old research on Sandies and looking into part costs, I think I might be leaving the shiny behind and dirtying things up. 

 

Should I move this thread over to the MEPD or continue here?

[Sly11[Admin]]

Definitely in your best interests to start a thread on MEPD if you are building a Sandy. They have fantastic knowledge on the type of weathering you are going to need to do to your kit, but also there a a few differences with a Sandy armour compared to the shiny white TK.

By all means check in here from time to time because we would love to see your build progress.

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

51 minutes ago, Sly11 said:

Definitely in your best interests to start a thread on MEPD if you are building a Sandy. They have fantastic knowledge on the type of weathering you are going to need to do to your kit, but also there a a few differences with a Sandy armour compared to the shiny white TK.

By all means check in here from time to time because we would love to see your build progress.

I’m ultimately extremely indecisive, so what I think I’m gonna do for now is finish out this build as a TK, and then convert to a TD down the road when my kit has some miles on it. Far easier to convert from TK to TD rather than back the other way! So I think I’ll continue this build here.

 

Of course by tomorrow I’ll change my mind again.

Edited February 21, 2021 by TD_Dusty

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

A sound plan, I converted my 7 year old ATA to a sandy last year, mainly because of scratching on the arms and a couple of cracks, I had a spare ATA TK that I built up in it's place first. Its a very easy swap over from stormy to sandy, just make sure you use E6000 glue so you can remove pieces you need to swap out 

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

SO.

 

I worked some more on the bucket, installed the lenses, messed with the ears a little (Although I think I’m through trying to get them

perfect at this point) fixed the aerator screens, made the eyes sharper, and cut a bit more out of a few teeth.

 

Then I trimmed the chest some more, the ab plate, butt plate, and kidney plate and did a (very) sloppy test fit.

I’m very happy to report I very likely

won’t need shims thanks to quarantine weight loss and with a test fit of one of the thighs I likely won’t need them

there either! Very happy. 
 

(Excuse the mess, I just moved!)

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Onwards and upwards

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

looking good and congrats for weight loss  

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

Coming along! Although I’m really nervous about starting all of the “two-parter” pieces. I have no idea where to start with biceps, gauntlets, thighs, shins, and cover strips. Are there some good comprehensive guides to getting those done?

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Here is Tony's build thread full of info and assembly tips, should help you right on your way:

 

 

Some videos here 

 

 

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

So I installed the snaps on my kidney, ab, chest, and butt plates. Seems to be holding nice, tight, and even, but the kidney plate is giving me troubles.

The coverage on the sides is fine, no gap. But they flair out from behind the ab plate and no matter what I do I can’t seem to get them flush. Do I need to heat and reshape or maybe add support inside? Don’t mind the belt, I was just testing with it on.

 

Edited March 7, 2021 by TD_Dusty

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Really depends on the armor and sizing, I had to add some tabs behind the sides to help keep them from flaring out.

 

I don't have an image handy but you can get a rough idea from this video

 

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

17 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Really depends on the armor and sizing, I had to add some tabs behind the sides to help keep them from flaring out.

 

I don't have an image handy but you can get a rough idea from this video

 

Perfect! I have plenty of scrap ABS and this looks like a pretty elegant and simple solution. 

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

Hey all! So I’ve been so busy I haven’t been able to work on the build, but I managed to work on one of the thighs and mostly complete the left forearm.

question is, with the 15mm cover strip on the back, it’s JUST too small for my forearm. How would I go about shimming it?

 

The size of the gap on the back is definitely not the size I need, just showing where I’m at. 

[PajamaTrooper[501st]]

Welp, a lot has happened since the last time I posted! Submitted for approval today! (Had a bit of an issue with the right shin, luckily it wasn't in my approval photos.)

 

 

 

Edited April 27, 2021 by TD_Dusty