FNG, no wait... FTL900 TK ANH build thread.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

That trim line should give you a little more room. 

 

Notice also one of your sides/ear is very close the the trap while the other has a large gap, it's ok to have a difference but can make a difference to were they meet underneath. The tilt of the front plate can also open or close the opening. 

 

 

Here is a comparison to a recent centurion approved RS helmet, the photos are taken slightly differently but will give you an idea, notice the slight difference in the tilt/angle of the faceplate to the cap, also the length from the front area to back of the helmet, yours length appears slightly less.

 

To adjust the faceplate you would need to remove the ears, drill out rivets or bolts what every has been used, then bring the faceplate forward on the base to increase this angle and opening, you will also need to check how much you can move it while the two pieces still meet underneath allowing ears to cover any gap. Hope that makes sense I've only had one coffee 

 

Dan has a great thread showing the angles/tilt on helmets which may help you see the differences

 

[CableGuy[TK]]

 
I don't know where I got that "AM" from when I started this thread, it's an RS Propmasters kit.
Perhaps I was thinking of ANH... I dunno. 

If you go to your first post and click “edit”, it should offer you the option to edit your thread title. :-)

[CableGuy[TK]]

That trim line should give you a little more room. 
 
Notice also one of your sides/ear is very close the the trap while the other has a large gap, it's ok to have a difference but can make a difference to were they meet underneath. The tilt of the front plate can also open or close the opening. 
 


 
Here is a comparison to a recent centurion approved RS helmet, the photos are taken slightly differently but will give you an idea, notice the slight difference in the tilt/angle of the faceplate to the cap, also the length from the front area to back of the helmet, yours length appears slightly less.
 
To adjust the faceplate you would need to remove the ears, drill out rivets or bolts what every has been used, then bring the faceplate forward on the base to increase this angle and opening, you will also need to check how much you can move it while the two pieces still meet underneath allowing ears to cover any gap. Hope that makes sense I've only had one coffee 

 
Dan has a great thread showing the angles/tilt on helmets which may help you see the differences
 

Hi Glenn,

I think that “odd” gap between the tears and ears is about right for RS. (This is how my RS went together):




If it were me, knowing what a pain it can be to re-drill new holes etc, especially for a new builder, it might be safer for Michael to use the second set of ears (I believe RS still supply a spare set) and trim them less if he wants to cover the gaps.

[CableGuy[TK]]

Making good progress, Michael. :-)

If you’d like to tidy up the vocoder a little bit, I’d highly recommend a “filbert” brush as these have a nice rounded tip.


As below, your’s is currently a little more ‘squared’, whereas the originals are a little more rounded.



If you need to remove some paint to create a rounder shape, I find you can gently scrape with a wooden tooth pick / cocktail stick without damaging the plastic.

As below, I’d aim for something a little more like this:



Here’s a video of how I paint mine using a filbert brush: (skip to around 8mins)
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And, here’s a useful thread on the different vocoder styles. Most “stunt” troopers had a “fuller” vocoder, just like the reference photos above. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48252-anh-tk-vocoder-examples/

[FTL900]

Super advice, thanks!   I edited the title successfully.     

 

RS Props does give you a second set of ears... and the worst one on the helmet IS the second one.   For some reason, I kept 'doing something wrong' and ending up with that large gap over the curve.   The back is worse.   I contemplated thinning the top of the ear to make the bottom match, and decided it was not a good plan as they're pretty thin already.  I still have the other one (first one I trimmed) but I'm not sure it's usable since it has a similar gap across that curved area.

The vocoder paint does need some touch-up... thanks for the detailed suggestions, I'll work on rounding those and cleaning it up.   Ears need a little cleaning up as well.

[FTL900]

I trimmed off the back bottom of the helmet to even that oout and it helped a lot with getting it on.    Then I've been touching up and retouching the vocoder and ears paint.  Still a work in progress.   

[FTL900]

I'm sad to report that this build is coming to an end.   Due to advancing age and other health concerns, I realized that I won't be able to stand for 1-3 hours, and I can't easily sit in a TK suit.   
For that reason and others, I'll be selling my RS Props suit, partially completed, along with an ESB blaster and a ANH blaster, and the voice comm kit for the helmet.   I have loads of money in this and don't expect to recoup it all, but it needs to go.   
I've requesteed access to the sales section so I can post it there.  It'll be local pickup only in Las Vegas, due to shipping cost and size.

[Sly11[Admin]]

Sorry to hear, Michael.

Look after yourself sir.

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Sorry to hear that sir. Your health is first.

 

You can always support the troops as an officer, ( you can sit in officer's costume) , a handler or combat photographer .  

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Sorry to hear Michael, as someone that deals with a lot of medical issues I can fully understand, I could at least sit on the corner of a table or chair arm. Being a bit taller I can actually sit it just doesn't look very nice getting up 

 

Wish you good luck with the sale and best wishes for the future