FNG, no wait... FTL900 TK ANH build thread.

[FTL900]

The box got closed up, and ignored for the next year.   Fast forward to yesterday and I decided it was time to make some progress and build this.  

I got all the arm pieces trimmed and sanded today.   I actually bought a small belt sander at Harbor Freight that works really well.

 

That being said, I was inattentive for a micro-second, and now i have a couple of small cracks in an arm piece.  Hashtag learning process.   I'm wondering what the best glue is to repair these.   I think I'm gonna put a backing on the one on the right, since there's so little remaining plastic holding it on.  

 

I have a 2-part epoxy that I've used for decades on ABS motorcycle parts.  It works really well, it's a little flexible so it doesn't crack, and is stronger than the orignal plastic.  I wonder if that would work well.

I have most of the other recommended adhesives and chemicals on hand already.  

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Great to see you back at this.

 

For small cracks I use the 2pack epoxy glue, for anything that will need filling I use Devcon, takes a while to dry but it is sandable.,

 

I find both those glues holds a lot better than E6000 and doesn't flex, add some ABS pieces behind, rough both surfaces with sandpaper so it's gives the glue something to grip too.

 

Some use superglue but I just prefer 2pack epoxy glue or Devcon. 

[LTM[TK]]

Welcome back!

Are you painting the kit? If not, reinforce from the inside and make an ABS slurry for the outside. Then you can blend and the repair should almost disappear. 

[FTL900]

Not painting it.   Good idea abou the slurry, I have lots of abs scraps left over.

I use this DEVCON 2 part epoxy that's incredible for ABS motorcycle parts.  Dries light colored buy not white, so it'll be an inside-only job.

I tried the JB WELD brand once.... it didn't bond at all, and I threw it away.

 

 

 

Edited February 4, 2022 by FTL900

[FTL900]

I'm finally making a little progress on this.  Both forearms are completed, and I'm pretty happy with the results.   Both biceps are finsihed.... except for this small problem.  

The very first piece i assembled, right side bicep, is measured for girth pretty much correctly, but somehow I ended up with cut lines at an angle, so cover strip is at an angle.   I used Devcon plastic welder, so I don't think it's going to come apart easily.    I'm brainstorming the best way to remedy this.   My current thought is to carefully grind off the cover strip.  I bought a small belt sander and it's a lifesaver for adjusting ends and edges.

  

 

Belt sander from Harbor Freight with the extended warranty.   Having the top flat belt, the rounded end on the top right, and the circular disc sanding area work really well for a lot of things.  

I attached it to a shop vac from the port in the back, but I still get snow everywhere.  I'll have to open the shop vac to see how much it's really helping.

 

[FTL900]

The helmet shell is assembled, and it's ready for paint.   Are decals such as these acceptable??  My thinking is I'll have a better outcome with applying decals than i will hand-painting it. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/231413859484

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

1 hour ago, FTL900 said:

The helmet shell is assembled, and it's ready for paint.   Are decals such as these acceptable??  My thinking is I'll have a better outcome with applying decals than i will hand-painting it. 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/231413859484

 

Those are ESB style decals.  If you're building an ANH version , here another place to buy ANH or ESB decals .

 

https://trooperbay.com/decals/prop-replica-decals/star-wars-props/troopers-tk

 

 

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

If you are going for ANH Stunt/Hero those are the wrong ones, Michael.  The CRL for those costumes states that they must be "hand painted or have the appearance of hand painted".  However, if you are aiming for ESB they are fine, and for ESB they MUST be decals, not hand painted.

 

                                                                                  ESB

 

              

 

Decals are fine for ANH for all levels of approval.  Link to those can be found here.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Trooperbay on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/234141270635?hash=item3683e8426b:g:fG0AAOxyRHdRz3Yb

[FTL900]

Thanks, I realized that after i ordered them, so I messaged the ebay seller (Trooper Bay) and asked them to subsititue ANH decals instead.   
ESB??   I'm aiming for the base level of approval here... 

Edited April 6, 2022 by FTL900

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 hour ago, FTL900 said:

ESB??  

Empire Strikes Back.

 

You can find the differences on this sheet here https://drive.google.com/file/d/10tEVteIreh6AHMogW010cuH_Bf8TBfU6/view

 

Also some great references on starwarshelmets.com http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-stormtrooper-helmets-sub-submenu.htm

[FTL900]

The ebay guy came through and sent me ANH decals.    I'm putting the helmet decals on, and trying to understand how many tube stripes are supposed to be on each side.   

 

Ignoring Mr. No-Stripe guy in the movie, I'm seeing a lot of different numbers, sometimes on the same helmet, but different number of stripes side to side.   Is there an accepted number of stripes for each side, and should both sides be the same number??    I'm seeing everything between 12 stripes and 15 stripes. 

 

 Also my RST helmet seems to have less horizontal space for stripes on the left side....?   

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Correct this is why the CRL states 

• Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards.

You can pick how many you would like and both sides don't have to match, purely up to you and won't affect higher level approvals.

 

Just make sure you have the lean at the front correct.

 

FYI Black series helmet is base off Rouge One so does not count  

 

 

[FTL900]

Thanks, that helps a lot!!   I had kinda figured out the stripe direction but I appreciate your verification!

Edited April 12, 2022 by FTL900

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

On 4/12/2022 at 7:13 PM, FTL900 said:

 I had kinda figured out the stripe direction but I appreciate your verification!

 

Don't forget that the stripes should sit approximately a pencil width from the top of the cheek. 

 

   

[FTL900]

I got the stripes added, and when trying on my helmet, it seems like a snug fit to get it over my head.  And I don't have any electronics in it yet- only green lenses and a cloth fabric behind the grill. 

When i turn the helmet sideways, my head just kinda barely fits into it.  I have a normal sized head (7 1/8) so I'm wondering if I'm missing something, or if I need to disassemble the front and rear shell and try to eke a little more space out of it. 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

4 hours ago, FTL900 said:

I got the stripes added, and when trying on my helmet, it seems like a snug fit to get it over my head.  And I don't have any electronics in it yet- only green lenses and a cloth fabric behind the grill. 

When i turn the helmet sideways, my head just kinda barely fits into it.  I have a normal sized head (7 1/8) so I'm wondering if I'm missing something, or if I need to disassemble the front and rear shell and try to eke a little more space out of it. 

I don't have much space when putting my helmet on, there's definitely more once you've turned the helmet straight when on, the only electronics I have in the helmet is a fan.

 

Could be a few things, how much opening you have at the base, may need more trimming, also the position of the front section to the rear and also the angle can adjust the opening too.

 

Perhaps a few images of your opening may help, also a photo of the sides to see how they are assembled.

 

[FTL900]

Here's what I'm up against.   I can get the helmet on, but only very carefully.  

Also here you can see the side pretty well.  Is it an issue if I remove half an inch or so from each side??

The CRL was referenced.... where can I find that, so I know what is required and what I can play with a little bit.

 

 

 

 

 

If needed, I can pop that out and add some glue in there to hold it in place.

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Could you remove the S trim so we can see the bottom of the helmet, to check mold lines.

 

CRL can be found here https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

[LTM[TK]]

Something is not quite right on the helmet. The gap on the ear looks to be on the large side. 
can you post some side/front/back shots. Also want to see the ears. The AM helmet is “wonky”, if you have ocd you might have over corrected. 
 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Hi folks,

Just to avoid confusion when people offer advice, the title of the thread says “AM” build (armour master), yet the first post says this is an RS kit.

Which maker is the helmet and armour?

[TheSwede[TK]]

On 4/29/2022 at 1:28 AM, FTL900 said:

can get the helmet on, but only very carefully.  

Hey

Try twisting it on left to center, oposite from your picture

Also that dent you are refering to is a feature on the RS helmet and one of those quirks that the original helmet they got has, so I would leave it the way it is

[CableGuy[TK]]

Here's what I'm up against.   I can get the helmet on, but only very carefully.  
Also here you can see the side pretty well.  Is it an issue if I remove half an inch or so from each side??
The CRL was referenced.... where can I find that, so I know what is required and what I can play with a little bit.
 

 

 

 

 
If needed, I can pop that out and add some glue in there to hold it in place.
 

The dent (known as the “crush” under the chin is supposed to be there. It’s part of RS’s original helmet and they have faithfully maintained it.

If you are going for ANH (A New Hope) Stunt, here is the CRL - https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

If you can, I’d suggest taking some photos from exactly side on, front, and rear, to let us check the alignment. To help us most, stand around 6 feet back from the helmet and use 2x zoom on your camera (assuming it’s a smart phone). This will give us good perspective.

Like this (also RS):

[FTL900]

Thanks for the CRFL link!!

Good advice on removing the rubber strip, I  can see that the bottom rear edge isn't cut evenly.

 

I think it needs to be cut more like this...

 

Additional pictures...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[FTL900]

On 4/30/2022 at 12:17 AM, CableGuy said:

Hi folks,

Just to avoid confusion when people offer advice, the title of the thread says “AM” build (armour master), yet the first post says this is an RS kit.

Which maker is the helmet and armour?

 

I don't know where I got that "AM" from when I started this thread, it's an RS Propmasters kit.
Perhaps I was thinking of ANH... I dunno. 

Edited May 1, 2022 by FTL900