Zinfer[TK] Posted January 28, 2022 Author Report Posted January 28, 2022 On 2/28/2021 at 5:46 PM, gmrhodes13 said: Very hard to do it by yourself, overall looking good. You may want to drop your thighs a little, appears you butt plate is getting hit and knocked backwards when walking, tighter elastic between the cod and butt plate can help, also right thigh needs rotating inwards. There is a large gap between the top of your shoulder bell and the shoulder straps on the right side, perhaps some tighter strapping, doubled over elastic normally helps. You could add some side shims to close that gap then remove later once you loose the weight. Ok, so I'm down to 183. Still not fitting me well enough. Maybe 175? Another 8 pounds. But yea I'm not liking my butt at ALL. It's appearing to hang too low/the center point and I still have that issue with the right overlapping. Could it be because of the gap still existing/weight? I'm really not sure if it's the trim edge, if the entire butt plate isn't trimmed up enough or if it's my right thigh. It's really hard to tell. It was suggested to try to lower the thighs belt and see what happens from there with the butt plate. The butt plate I want is nice and tight but I don't know how he did it. first pic is what I'd desire, second pic(in green) is from my submission pics. Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted January 28, 2022 Report Posted January 28, 2022 Hi Rodney and congrats for your weight achievement this will bring you great health benefits . About your thighs, it looks like definitively they need a little trimming session. you could do it half an inch and test, trim another half inch if needed and so on. For the butt plate, once you have adjusted the thighs , you can add some ABS V tabs into the butt plate to prevent slipping backwards. Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted January 28, 2022 Author Report Posted January 28, 2022 3 hours ago, TKSpartan said: Hi Rodney and congrats for your weight achievement this will bring you great health benefits . About your thighs, it looks like definitively they need a little trimming session. you could do it half an inch and test, trim another half inch if needed and so on. For the butt plate, once you have adjusted the thighs , you can add some ABS V tabs into the butt plate to prevent slipping backwards. Thanks so much for the reply. I've never made these V Tabs before. Is there a particular method? And is part of my problem due to the fact I'm using those clips on the return edges rather than snaps? I could then remove some return edge so it's not so deep. And also, if I wore the armor and then had someone pencil the thighs - would that work well? Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted January 28, 2022 Report Posted January 28, 2022 I think You could try adjusting the thighs first and suit up to see the result including how the butt plate sits (I don't think the clips on the return edges being the problem) . To make the V tabs it's just using an ABS piece and a heat gun to give it the correct V shape. Please take look to this building thread Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted March 6, 2022 Author Report Posted March 6, 2022 Ok I've done the Vtabs. I've also submitted and I am happy to announce that My TK is Now Approved by the 501st Ohio Garrison. Now I'd like to go for higher certs if possible. Continuing my diet and going below 180 to 175. May try 165 after that until comfortable in this armor. Def want to go beyond basic but I have a 2 Inch gap on my left that I need to take care of. Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted March 6, 2022 Author Report Posted March 6, 2022 2nd Photoshoot, action shots. Trying super glue on the belt snap to the canvas. If this does not hold, going rivets. 1 Quote
Harbinger[IPM] Posted March 7, 2022 Report Posted March 7, 2022 Looks good other than the belt, in my experience you'll likely end up going rivets anyway. Trooping is pretty brutal on ABS. 1 Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted March 15, 2022 Author Report Posted March 15, 2022 (edited) On 3/7/2022 at 2:08 AM, Harbinger said: Looks good other than the belt, in my experience you'll likely end up going rivets anyway. Trooping is pretty brutal on ABS. Next known troop is in May. I'd love to dawn the TK for it's first troop (My second Troop). I've got some time yet until May1. Going to suit up a few times and see if I have problems. If so I'll have to get busy removing snaps and installing rivets. Edited March 15, 2022 by Zinfer 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 15, 2022 Report Posted March 15, 2022 Bending the belt into the shape of the armor helps to relieve any stress points, mine has only come off once on a troop and that was playing lazer tag, those younglings can be brutal There used to be a how to on it but unfortunately lost due to unrecoverable images. Some use paint stirring sticks, you clasp them either side of the belt and then clamp to hold in place, heat belt either hot water bath or heat gun (take care if using a heat gun, practice on scraps first), then bend and hold until it cools. You can also just use brute force but again be careful as thin plastic can crack. Here's one of mine And another 1 Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted March 17, 2022 Author Report Posted March 17, 2022 (edited) Yea I did that gmrhodes a long while back. I've been told the best way to stress the armor is by simply bending over. Sure enough that stress tested it well. I also tried taking a knee on the right knee. Owey. I didn't care much for that as it tended to clash the left back thigh into the left back calf and I was concerned about the rear center strip. Also the pressure on my right knee from the armor was pointy from somewhere - didn't feel good. Been told not to do that afterwards. Just learning range of motions and stress testing before a couple major troops in it. So as a result. The superglue on the left snap that secures the plastic belt to the canvas held surprisingly, while the RIGHT one then came unsnapped. So I am really interested to know (as I've been told I should do this) if it is considered good practice to rivet the plastic belt directly to the canvas even for the sake of peace of mind. Because while suited up and in bucket I simply cannot tell if anything has come unsnapped. I also found it annoying that the mid inner snap was coming unsnapped. I agree I could do with losing another 10 pounds and that would probably relieve alot of stress but these snaps on this plastic belt have been coming unsnapped since day one and first test fit. So I can't tell what brand snaps these are, but they are the larger more meatier snaps. Is superglue the answer or is straight rivetting the answer? Just advice or suggestion I guess is all I'm after to prevent a wardrobe malfunction on future troops. I looked for brand names on the snaps and I simply can't find any. Tandy good. Ditz bad I guess is the rule. Edited March 17, 2022 by Zinfer Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 17, 2022 Report Posted March 17, 2022 No issues with riveting between belt and canvas, if you really wanted to you could actually mount it all directly to the ab plate, I did this with my TKC as the belt is a little longer and I felt it would catch on things on the sides. Just make sure you have it all positioned correctly before riveting, no adjusting after that modification, although I guess you could slot the holes to adjust. I used a generic snap I found on Aliexpress, much cheaper than local suppliers, you can find with different makes that some aren't as strong as others, I had to replace all on a commission build as everything kept coming loose, never encountered that with snaps before, the clasp ring inside the snap was just too loose. Personally I don't like using superglue on much as it's hard to make adjustments, E6000 is more forgiving and will stick quite well, just make sure you rough plastic surfaces. 1 Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted March 17, 2022 Author Report Posted March 17, 2022 13 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: No issues with riveting between belt and canvas, if you really wanted to you could actually mount it all directly to the ab plate, I did this with my TKC as the belt is a little longer and I felt it would catch on things on the sides. Just make sure you have it all positioned correctly before riveting, no adjusting after that modification, although I guess you could slot the holes to adjust. I used a generic snap I found on Aliexpress, much cheaper than local suppliers, you can find with different makes that some aren't as strong as others, I had to replace all on a commission build as everything kept coming loose, never encountered that with snaps before, the clasp ring inside the snap was just too loose. Personally I don't like using superglue on much as it's hard to make adjustments, E6000 is more forgiving and will stick quite well, just make sure you rough plastic surfaces. Right, so far I've not an issue with the canvas belt coming unsnapped from the armor as it's preferred to have it tight in back w/velcro. Ok, I'm going to do this then. Just a couple pieces of information on what size rivet/washers work best. I think I've got this handled on my FB page. Not sure why my inner mid elastic snap has started unsnapping. But I think as the clamshell pulls in/weight loss- that will ease tension on it. It's the bending over that does all this. 1 Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted April 4, 2022 Author Report Posted April 4, 2022 Alright so far so good. Rivetted the canvas to the plastic. Tested a few times. First Troop scheduled for April 23rd in the TK. I feel it's ready. Although I still have about a 2" gap on the right clamshell. It's my belief if I can get that to 1/2" I will be at a stage to submit for Lvl 2 Certification unless I missed something and I don't believe I have. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 4, 2022 Report Posted April 4, 2022 Should be little to no gap for Centurion. From the CRL: OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top 1 Quote
Sly11[Admin] Posted April 4, 2022 Report Posted April 4, 2022 Looking good Rodney, you can do this and hit Centurion. I missed your 501st approved post so congratulations on the first mile stone. 1 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted April 5, 2022 Report Posted April 5, 2022 On 3/14/2022 at 8:38 PM, gmrhodes13 said: There used to be a how to on it but unfortunately lost due to unrecoverable images. Some use paint stirring sticks, you clasp them either side of the belt and then clamp to hold in place, heat belt either hot water bath or heat gun (take care if using a heat gun, practice on scraps first), then bend and hold until it cools. You can also just use brute force but again be careful as thin plastic can crack. Glen - Was there an additional how-to thread that showed a different belt-bending process other than this post linked below (which depicts the process you described)? If there is another method out there that could use revival and redocumentation, I'd be happy to implement and photograph it with my build. Otherwise I had saved this post and planned to utilize the same technique. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 5, 2022 Report Posted April 5, 2022 1 hour ago, MaskedVengeance said: Glen - Was there an additional how-to thread that showed a different belt-bending process other than this post linked below (which depicts the process you described)? If there is another method out there that could use revival and redocumentation, I'd be happy to implement and photograph it with my build. Otherwise I had saved this post and planned to utilize the same technique. There had been a couple around at the time but unfortunately many lost their images and have been archived. I used a heat gun which is a little more controllable than the blow torch in that thread. 1 Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted April 23, 2022 Author Report Posted April 23, 2022 (edited) Ok, so tomorrow is my first Troop in the TK armor. I am having some problems with the kidney plate cutting into my back. I have tried trimming it as flush as I can but with the wire brackets I can't go any further in. Is this just a matter of losing the appropriate weight yet? I am 183 and near the 175 goal. Still - I'm just going to have to endure it cutting into my back for hours. Has ANYONE else had this experience with the Kidney plate? It's mainly on my left portion of muscle beside my spine. Edited April 23, 2022 by Zinfer Quote
Daetrin[Admin] Posted April 23, 2022 Report Posted April 23, 2022 Not with the kidney. It's normal though that it can take a few troops to dial in your armor. No amount of standing in front of a mirror can prepare you for it. You may end up needing some foam padding too. Have people take a bunch of pix and then adjust, troop for an hour & take pix, adjust, etc. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 23, 2022 Report Posted April 23, 2022 17 hours ago, Zinfer said: Ok, so tomorrow is my first Troop in the TK armor. I am having some problems with the kidney plate cutting into my back. I have tried trimming it as flush as I can but with the wire brackets I can't go any further in. Is this just a matter of losing the appropriate weight yet? I am 183 and near the 175 goal. Still - I'm just going to have to endure it cutting into my back for hours. Has ANYONE else had this experience with the Kidney plate? It's mainly on my left portion of muscle beside my spine. I have not encountered this, how much return edge do you have on your kidney? Could be a case of your belt or ab and kidney are pulled too tightly, could try letting out the belt a little or loosen the ab/kidney gap. Photos could help 1 Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted April 25, 2022 Author Report Posted April 25, 2022 I will try to snap some photos. Yea I showed my CO where the bite was occurring and it's riding directly on my left back. I've tried trimming. I may attempt it again. May not be enough time before this Sunday/next troop. I've another issue brewing. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 25, 2022 Report Posted April 25, 2022 Just make sure you have no return edge on the inside base of your shins, I also sand the inside if there is any lip, using several different grades of sandpaper until you get to a fine grade say 600 so you try to get that area really smooth. Even with that you can still get some rubbing, I'd say most see this over time. 1 Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted April 25, 2022 Author Report Posted April 25, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said: Just make sure you have no return edge on the inside base of your shins, I also sand the inside if there is any lip, using several different grades of sandpaper until you get to a fine grade say 600 so you try to get that area really smooth. Even with that you can still get some rubbing, I'd say most see this over time. I don't think there is. I will pull them both out and examine. I think this is all the work of the rear joint strips/bottom edge of the calves. I was thinking maybe some sticky foam (single sided) but I could not locate any here at Hobby Lobby or Joanne Fabrics. I was going to try sticking the loop side of velcro on back of each r/l portion of the calves. One troop did all this! Granted it was a 5 hour troop. I'm kinda reconsidering doing the 3mile walk now with the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation troop Sunday. That'd really tear these up if I can't remedy it with something. Edited April 25, 2022 by Zinfer 1 Quote
Doggydoc[Staff] Posted April 26, 2022 Report Posted April 26, 2022 Would some of the shoe padding that people use for corns work on the inside of the shin piece? I think it is called Mole Foam and Dr. School’s makes it? Quote
Zinfer[TK] Posted July 24, 2022 Author Report Posted July 24, 2022 On 4/26/2022 at 6:50 AM, Doggydoc said: Would some of the shoe padding that people use for corns work on the inside of the shin piece? I think it is called Mole Foam and Dr. School’s makes it? I tried sticky backed cloth side velcro and it's still holding. Not sure it's totally stopping it, but I think it's increasing the longevity by maybe a tad. Quote
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