What have I gotten myself into?

[Zinfer[TK]]

So today I took the long taped up right bicep and completely fitted it to my arm, drew the cut lines, trimmed it front and back and temp gaffer taped it together awaiting cover strips. I was so confident in the procedure that I went ahead and performed the same on the left side. Both biceps fited. 

 

 

 

[Zinfer[TK]]

I thought I performed these fits so well, I may just do fittings on the forearms as well tomorrow.  A little more research on thinning them down to fit my scrawny little arms.

 

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Nice work! :-)

When you get the adding the coverstrips, if you are looking for screen accurate (vs idealised), note how the coverstrips stop with the shortest piece of armour:



Either way is fine - just personal preference. :-)

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

5 hours ago, Zinfer said:

I thought I performed these fits so well, I may just do fittings on the forearms as well tomorrow.  A little more research on thinning them down to fit my scrawny little arms.

 

 

You can (and should) trim down the rear of the tops as shown below, Rodney, for 2 reasons:

 

1.  You don't want any jagged edges that can (and will) poke into you.  The tops of the biceps are hidden by the shoulder bells, so no one can see them anyway.

 

2.  As you probably know, I'm not a fan of return edges.  As seen in the screen used ones below there are none on the rear tops (or fronts of the one in the last image).  If you decide to remove them, be sure to do it before final fitting.

 

          

[CableGuy[Admin]]

  You can (and should) trim down the rear of the tops as shown below, Rodney, for 2 reasons:

 

1.  You don't want any jagged edges that can (and will) poke into you.  The tops of the biceps are hidden by the shoulder bells, so no one can see them anyway.

 

2.  As you probably know, I'm not a fan of return edges.  As seen in the screen used ones below there are none on the rear tops (or fronts of the one in the last image).  If you decide to remove them, be sure to do it before final fitting.

 

          

 

Hi Joseph,

 

It’s personal preference though, isn’t it. I know you mentioned that it “should” be trimmed as you suggested, however, if a trooper wants to follow the originals, they can follow screen used suits. Your suggested cut line is ideal if a trooper is after an ‘idealised’ look.

 

The photo of the RS suit is not jagged. With a little sand paper, you can easily follow the shape of the originals, yet not have any jagged edges. My own suit follows the originals yet I have no poking when suited up.

 

I know you don’t like return edges either, however, same as above, that’s a personal preference. :-)

 

With respect, of course, brother. :-)

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Definitely a personal preference, my friend, but what I should have said was jagged points.  Those things would rip an under suit to shreds, lol.

 

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Definitely a personal preference, my friend, but what I should have said was jagged points.  Those things would rip an under suit to shreds, lol.
 

Super - yes, those would definitely have to be sanded to remove the actual points on the back. I’m with you on that. Curving the part as you suggest is optional (as the original suits mainly went straight up), but, as you said, those point return edges could be removed or sanded. :-)

[Zinfer[TK]]

Got the forearms completely fitted. I also tried them on with my undersuit and gloves on just to make sure. However, I did notice the right was not maintaining it's shape. I may need a little heat on it to get it's shape more circular than oval. 

 

The Left RS scult seemed like it was a thicker material, more robust, so it held it's shape fine during trim to fit.  

 

Below is the Right.  

[Zinfer[TK]]

8 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

Definitely a personal preference, my friend, but what I should have said was jagged points.  Those things would rip an under suit to shreds, lol.

 

I was thinking that once I got the ocver strips on, I could go a little higher on the top and Trim them to match the inclination and angle cut, sanding any and all sharp edges inside or out?  I mean it probably doesn't matter since it's covered entirely by the bell.  But yea I'm prolly going to get poked my something so I am keeping an eye out for that.  I think the most likely area I'm going to have a problem is a pinchpoint behind the knee, but I guess cross that when I get to it and find out if that will be an issue.    Not to change subjects, but ATM after changing my straps for something a little tighter between the chest and cod, I found I'm getting choked a bit and can't really look down much, it appears to have raised the chest plate.  Maybe just need to lose some poundage and that'll fix it.  Those bracket straps are a pain to get right.

[Zinfer[TK]]

Ok, welp I'm DEF in a holding pattern now.    Might get my Hasbro E-11 toy in tomorrow.  But without a doopy conversion I guess I can monkey with it a little.  Maybe time to check out the Icomm. 

Edited January 18, 2021 by Zinfer

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

There are some plans around for scratch building E-11 parts so you may be able to give that a go 

 

I also replaced the front barrel on my Hasbro blaster, added some T-tracks, the light coming through the holes and gaps in the barrel look great.

 

Rest of my build

 

[Sn4k3]

My Undersuit JUST arrived today and I am both shamed and surprised it fits me so well.  XL.  No photos.  Body shaming. :S  I mean I got the initial trimming on the thighs, but the back sizing is a mystery to me.  I am going to do the same with the shins here in the next couple evenings.  I've seen peeps apply that inner strip and I was scratching my head over it.  I guess I have to put those silly elastics on the back of the shins.  I plan on using velcro in the end.  But I think by CRL I have to use those elastics.  It'd help me so much if there were someone in Ohio that does finish fitting.  I do alot of bicycling for aerobic and weight dropping, so my legs are pretty toned.   I'm afraid of removing too much.  Thanks for the kudos on the ab buttons.  Man, those were so awful to paint!  Well - I don't have a stellar history on painting.  Templates and masking tape for everything practically. 

Careful with the shins, they are easy to mix up and end up putting together the 2 outer on one leg and the 2 inner on the other leg, carful with that, and something else, they are not equal, i mean, when trimming and measuring you will realize that the 2 outer halfs are very slightly different and the 2 inner halves are also a slightly different

Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

[Zinfer[TK]]

11 hours ago, Sn4k3 said:

Careful with the shins, they are easy to mix up and end up putting together the 2 outer on one leg and the 2 inner on the other leg, carful with that, and something else, they are not equal, i mean, when trimming and measuring you will realize that the 2 outer halfs are very slightly different and the 2 inner halves are also a slightly different

Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk
 

On the RS Kit it's not very likely for this to happen as there is not a left outer and left inner, right outer, right inner, as the right and left are just copies.  Pretty sure I've got it right.  The only difference is when you trim the lower part at the ankles to make one side deeper than the other.  Pretty sure I got that right.

 

 

Edited January 19, 2021 by Zinfer

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Correct RS shins are the same for both legs

[Zinfer[TK]]

Ok, so back to building. Received the E-11 Blaster. However I still need the doopydoo conversion kit and presently they aren't producing anything and are out of stock of everything. Makes me question the logic of buying a conversion kit rather than a full on E-11 kit should they begin production again. 

[Zinfer[TK]]

The PVC cover strip material finally arrives! Checked the date on the package handled by the USPS. Dec 22nd ship date. The only guess I have is that items that are being shipped from across the pond, even from England are being stashed in a Quarantine bin for around about a month before the USPS then tells me they are experiencing a shortage of manpower to deliver things in a timely fashion. So this took about a month, just for a sheet of PVC plastic. Immediately diving into it and began slicing the cover strips 20mm x 6 for the legs. The deal is to get all the LARGE portions cut first so that if there is a shortage, it's for the smaller parts. So I found that scoring the plastic to bend it and snap really wasn't giving me clean lines as they tell you to just lightly score it, but you have to score it to near halfway through it. I apparently was scoring it TOO lightly, but never had the courage to go heavy on it as that tends to steer my razor knife away and on it's own course. So I just drew the lines, cut them with sheers and then sanded them clean. First shot is the rough cuts, second is after sanding with paper and dremel. All within tolerance of +-1mm of 20mm. 

 

[Zinfer[TK]]

Now, to begin applying the cover strips. I've seen alot of peeps telling me to be liberal with the E6000 glue but then I've seen tutorials where, that's not so much the case. I think I came somewhere in the middle. I'll find out after my first test with the Left SHIN front. I am applying the front cover strips before fitting the thighs and legs at the rear of them. This first part is the extent of my magnet collection, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow for this to fully cure before moving on to the Right Shin. 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

5 minutes ago, Zinfer said:

Ok, so back to building. Received the E-11 Blaster. However I still need the doopydoo conversion kit and presently they aren't producing anything and are out of stock of everything. Makes me question the logic of buying a conversion kit rather than a full on E-11 kit should they begin production again. 

There are advantages of the Hasbro, lighter than most scratch build and lights and sound  

 

I'm sure I've seen some 3D files around for updating the Hasbro blaster, I'll have a dig around see if I can find them.

 

Great to see you have your coverstrip material, should move along now

[Zinfer[TK]]

6 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

There are advantages of the Hasbro, lighter than most scratch build and lights and sound  

 

I'm sure I've seen some 3D files around for updating the Hasbro blaster, I'll have a dig around see if I can find them.

 

Great to see you have your coverstrip material, should move along now

Nothing like getting back on course again!  Yipee!  Yea I was kinda mystified when I bought a few AA batteries and gave it a whirl.  Only the front LED blinked with sound (muffled).  I thought there were more LED's down through the barrel but apparently not.  I couldn't get it apart with the scope endcaps and the front bulb cover (I don't have a doopy conversion so I'm hesitant to begin cutting anything).  I did peek through the barrel holes and didn't see any LED board or lights.  Hmm.  Color me surprised. 

On the 3d printer, I'd have to ask someone else to print things as I don't have one of those yet.  Everytime I have in the past though, there was always a problem with scaling being inaccurate.   And those darn resolution lines.  Ick!  I wish 3d printing could give a smooth surface like injection molding or vacu-forming.  Technologies not there yet.  I know you can give chemical baths to things to melt the plastic uhm...smooth. 

Edited January 21, 2021 by Zinfer

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

2 minutes ago, Zinfer said:

Nothing like getting back on course again!  Yipee!  Yea I was kinda mystified when I bought a few AA batteries and gave it a whirl.  Only the front LED blinked with sound (muffled).  I thought there were more LED's down through the barrel but apparently not.  I couldn't get it apart with the scope endcaps and the front bulb cover (I don't have a doopy conversion so I'm hesitant to begin cutting anything).  I did peek through the barrel holes and didn't see any LED board or lights.  Hmm.  Color me surprised.

I moved the LED to further down the barrel also added a pipe barrel, looks great with the light showing through. Posted my build a few threads up  

 

There are different versions of the Hasbro E-11, the last had a select from Stunt to Hero, sound and light color changes.

[Zinfer[TK]]

I plan on cutting a couple more cover strips for the insides of the shin fronts.  I just did all the 20's x 6 initially.

[Zinfer[TK]]

1 minute ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I moved the LED to further down the barrel also added a pipe barrel, looks great with the light showing through. Posted my build a few threads up  

 

There are different versions of the Hasbro E-11, the last had a select from Stunt to Hero, sound and light color changes.

Yea I was reading that.  Good Lord you really went all out, I downloaded a few templates off that link, but honestly at this stage I don't have the time and patience.  I wasn't aware of the different versions of the E-11.  I have been looking at the hyperdyne labs conversion if that's even still there, but I mean - that kit was something like $250. 

[Zinfer[TK]]

Wow, I got one of the warmest letters I've ever received and it was from Rob of RS.  A very kind letter and Props to this Man, his crew and family.  RS Propmasters are outstanding.  A quick snippet: 'When all the props are built it’s the friendships made that will remain.'  

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Found this conversion kit on Esty, not sure what it's like though or the seller

 

https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/205817129/stormtrooper-blaster-e-11-hasbro

[Zinfer[TK]]

That looks to be a 3d printed kit.  Maybe not though.  It almost looks metal.  But I don't think the doopy doo comes with a rail?  Oh it also has a chamber uhm..chamber clear pull and those two cylinders are not on a base.  Looks diff from a doopy.  $60 over a doopy $30.  I dunno.  It looks superior to the doopy conversion but it's double the price too.  Nice that it includes the bar and an entirely separate scope.  I been eyeing the Quest out of Canada I believe.

 

Edited January 21, 2021 by Zinfer