What have I gotten myself into?

[Zinfer[TK]]

Ah, thanks for that.  See?  This is why I waited before cutting trimming those button plates so close before I was ready to stick em on the torso.   Yea I am so ready to get past the biceps.  The bells curvature has me a little leary too.  The eyeballed curvature  could get me in trouble.  Again, wanted to kind of work on the torso before doing the bells so that I can see how far out the strap needs to go.   I am going to link the CRL so that I can refer to it along the way right here.

[CableGuy[TK]]

Ah, thanks for that.  See?  This is why I waited before cutting trimming those button plates so close before I was ready to stick em on the torso.   Yea I am so ready to get past the biceps.  The bells curvature has me a little leary too.  The eyeballed curvature  could get me in trouble.  Again, wanted to kind of work on the torso before doing the bells so that I can see how far out the strap needs to go.   I am going to link the CRL so that I can refer to it along the way right here.

Good thinking - leaving the shoulder bells until you can size them up against you when wearing your chest and back is a good idea.

Before you get to cutting and gluing your coverstrips, this video might be useful. :-)

[Sly11[Admin]]

You certainly went from zero and nervous about the first cut to full steam ahead pretty quick. Great work there, it is always daunting but once underway it gets easier and easier.


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[ukswrath[Staff]]

Coming along nicely Rodney 

[jsilvius[Staff]]

Your build is looking amazing. Keep it up.

[Zinfer[TK]]

6 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Good thinking - leaving the shoulder bells until you can size them up against you when wearing your chest and back is a good idea.

Before you get to cutting and gluing your coverstrips, this video might be useful. :-)

 

 

 

 

 

Interesting about those cover strips.  They all have a 45 degree cut in them at the ends.  Personal preference on them would be to round them off.  Is the 45 degree cuts required/common/desired?  Any sharp edges is something I would like to avoid.

[Zinfer[TK]]

6 hours ago, Sly11 said:

You certainly went from zero and nervous about the first cut to full steam ahead pretty quick. Great work there, it is always daunting but once underway it gets easier and easier.


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Yea I conceal my terror well don't I.    Honestly that is kinda my modus operand.  If I don't have a clear idea I will just stop, ask and once it becomes clear, proceed with a clear understanding.  In the case of the belt plate, I didn't even know the inner 45's was a thing.  I'm sure that's going to happen to me again, where I wasn't aware of some detail, which courage or not, is going to lead to having to rebuy a piece of armor.  It's a blessing and a curse as far as being assertive and ignorant. haha.  But anyways, thanks so much.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 hour ago, Zinfer said:

Interesting about those cover strips.  They all have a 45 degree cut in them at the ends.  Personal preference on them would be to round them off.  Is the 45 degree cuts required/common/desired?  Any sharp edges is something I would like to avoid.

You can use either method both are fine all the way up to Centurion, angled corners are more screen accurate though.

 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Interesting about those cover strips.  They all have a 45 degree cut in them at the ends.  Personal preference on them would be to round them off.  Is the 45 degree cuts required/common/desired?  Any sharp edges is something I would like to avoid.

You could round them, if you wish, however, that would be a less accurate route to take. Personally, I love to follow the original methods and aim for what we saw on screen, but that’s just my personal preference.

If you did round them off, it will probably be raised as a query if you choose to apply for the higher levels.

[Zinfer[TK]]

Well, you learn something new every day.  The trick is not to forget it. 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

When ever in doubt check the Gallery Section, as well as go through recently approved Centurion threads 

 

[Zinfer[TK]]

When I start in on something I'm like I have no doubt because I followed the tutorials religiously, It's when you guys point out that something is not right, that surprises me.    SO basically my mistakes are I'm not considering the CRL and I need to check that too before I make the moves.

Edited December 4, 2020 by Zinfer

[Zinfer[TK]]

Well, my Zip-Kicker didn't arrive from Fedex, so tackling another project. I was going to finish off the belt boxes on the belt tonight. But that's apparently not to be. So I moved on to some of the larger armor tonight. the Chest Plate. So from completely untrimmed to trimmed using the dremel. Haven't hand sanded yet but will later on tonight. There is more trimming to do at the bottom of the return edge of the chest plate. 

Untrimmed start.

Initial trim finished.  Unsanded

I further need to watch the tutorial again to find what the edge should be, thinking around 5 mill for those junky wires on the interior.  I'd so love to just do SNAPS all around.  That's something for the CRL too.  But, this is what I'm looking at on a final trim and sanding the whole thing out.

 

BTW, I'm unsure why in some of this post my text has a white background.

Edited December 4, 2020 by Zinfer

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You don't have to use metal brackets although they are screen accurate, you can actually use snaps and elastic all around.

 

If you do use them the bracket screws can split the plastic on the edges so adding some material behind them is a good idea for a little extra strength.

 

Great tutorial from @ukswrath 

 

 

 

Standard system with no brackets and double snaps 

 

 

 

 

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

I would leave about 1/4 inch on the bottom of the chest plate if you are going with the strapping system, a bit more if you use the brackets. 

 

 

You can (and should) leave the same amount (at least 1/4 inch) on the top of the chest. bottom of the back, top/bottom of the kidney and top of the posterior (butt) plate.

 

Below is what I personally consider the perfect trim job.

[Zinfer[TK]]

14 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

You don't have to use metal brackets although they are screen accurate, you can actually use snaps and elastic all around.

 

If you do use them the bracket screws can split the plastic on the edges so adding some material behind them is a good idea for a little extra strength.

 

Great tutorial from @ukswrath 

 

 

 

Standard system with no brackets and double snaps 

 

 

 

 

 

I am liking this 'Standard System' at least for the clamshell.  When I begin getting into the Elastics, this is what I would like to go with. I'll have to do some research on this Standard Strapping System. 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Depending on your preference, you might choose one or the other, or, you might choose a hybrid.

For example, you might like the look of the original bracket system but want to reinforce with the “practical popper” method.

Personally, I’ve run the practical popper method on my first suit for 18 troops and it held up perfectly. Here’s that method;

Now, I’ve gone for the original method. So far, I really like it, however, only time will tell regarding any potential stress points :

You could even just install the nuts and bolts but just have nothing on the other side, just to get that “original” look.

[Zinfer[TK]]

Yea Cableguy that's the idea, nuts and bolts just for the look.  What made you go from snaps back to the brackets?  That small lip and the pressure on it just seems really like a point of failure after alot of work.  I mean the kit from RS COMES with everything, it'd be alot more additional work to make all the snaps and material, then measurements for lengths.  I'm unfamiliar if there actually does exist a premade kit.  But if there is I think I'd be all over it.  I don't like the idea of drilling through anything, much rather glue a snap on cloth to the inside than drill any additional holes.  I think, during the tutorial on the brackets/elastics he did promise to show alternatives, but I don't believe he followed through with that.  I've religiously watched and rewatched all their tuts.  Right now I'm just trimming all the parts out and plenty of time to think about elastics system.  However, I believe the use of 4 snaps, basically double snapping each contact point is a little overkill.

 

Edited December 4, 2020 by Zinfer

[Zinfer[TK]]

So, I'm about to order some TK boots, as I'll eventually get around to the calves build.  I was gonna order from IB, however--my foot size is 10.5".  Now I have been informed that from this company it's best to order 1 size larger.  So great!  I'll just order 11.5".  Well - long story short they go from 10.5 to 11 12 and 12.5.  So they skipped right over 11.5.  So which to do?  11 or 12?  Why do asian feet have to be so small?    I'd sure hate to order a toe smashing boot, but then I wouldn't want something sloppy fitting either.  I am thinking 11?  But I could be very wrong.  Opinions on IB boots?

 

*Update: Went with size 11.

Edited December 5, 2020 by Zinfer

[CableGuy[TK]]

Yea Cableguy that's the idea, nuts and bolts just for the look.  What made you go from snaps back to the brackets? 

However, I believe the use of 4 snaps, basically double snapping each contact point is a little overkill.
 

Hiya,

For me, I went for this route to be closer to the originals. My first build was a little bit more for costuming. This one was a mission to feel as close as possible to the originals (warts and all!) ;-) As you’ll see from my videos, I’ve really gone to town on the smaller details. But, that’s what’s three years of staring at the original suits will do to you. ;-) hehe

Regarding the snaps, as long as they are quality snaps, single sets are usually adequate for most troopers.

[Zinfer[TK]]

I, to this day do not understand why Lucas went with Hook and hole x8 for the shins rather than hook and loop velcro.  I can't imagine fidgeting in all that armor with those each time I get suited up.  I mean there is the 'original' thing, but there's also superior methods. At least IMHO.    But to each their own I suppose my friend.  I'm sure there are many dissenting opinions.  I think those two things would be the only 2 things I'd modify on this armor with whitch to still maintaining the CRL and Centurion build.  I think I'm still on track for that with those mods?  Plenty of time to consider.

Edited December 4, 2020 by Zinfer

[CableGuy[TK]]

I, to this day do not understand why Lucas went with Hook and hole x8 for the shins rather than hook and loop velcro.  I can't imagine fidgeting in all that armor with those each time I get suited up.  I mean there is the 'original' thing, but there's also superior methods. At least IMHO.    But to each their own I suppose my friend.  I'm sure there are many dissenting opinions.

I doubt it was Lucas at any stage, tbh. The costume makers would have just worked with what they have.
Having the hooks on the elastic also adds more flexibility. Velcro is either attached or not - it has no give. Elastic adds movement and flex, just like the elastic throughout the rest of the armour. This is especially helpful if you try to navigate stairs in a TK. :-)

[CableGuy[TK]]

I, to this day do not understand why Lucas went with Hook and hole x8 for the shins rather than hook and loop velcro.  I can't imagine fidgeting in all that armor with those each time I get suited up.  I mean there is the 'original' thing, but there's also superior methods. At least IMHO.    But to each their own I suppose my friend.  I'm sure there are many dissenting opinions.

I doubt it was Lucas at any stage, tbh. The costume makers would have just worked with what they have.
Having the hooks on the elastic also adds more flexibility. Velcro is either attached or not - it has no give. Elastic adds movement and flex, just like the elastic throughout the rest of the armour. This is especially helpful if you try to navigate stairs in a TK. :-)

[Zinfer[TK]]

4 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

Elastic adds movement and flex, just like the elastic throughout the rest of the armour. This is especially helpful if you try to navigate stairs in a TK. :-)

Oh wait.  Do you mean to say that the 'Webbing' as described in that video is not Elastic?  I mean I can't see how elastic back tabs on the calves can make a difference other than your calf size changing, which is unlikely, but on the snap strapping - that's not elastic?   You've been doing this longer than me and Centurion level so I'm just a padawan trying to learn and understand. Flexibility in the calf, I guess if you had larger calves, I can see the need or more likely, flexibility at where the calf meets the ankle/boot.  I can understand an abrasion from that concept.

[CableGuy[TK]]

Oh wait.  Do you mean to say that the 'Webbing' as described in that video is not Elastic?  I mean I can't see how elastic back tabs on the calves can make a difference other than your calf size changing, which is unlikely, but on the snap strapping - that's not elastic?   You've been doing this longer than me and Centurion level so I'm just a padawan trying to learn and understand. Flexibility in the calf, I guess if you had larger calves, I can see the need or more likely, flexibility at where the calf meets the ankle/boot.  I can understand an abrasion from that concept.

The video showing the popper method had elastic in all areas, except for the shoulder strap (back to chest plate).

The video of mine is using all elastics.

If you skip to 3:30 in this video, you’ll see what I mean about the hybrid - Velcro in places but with added elastics near the ankles.