tat2trooper TK Anovos build thread

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Yeah definitely listen to Glen on this, especially since you’re already at 7.5” length. Good to go.


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[Sly11[Admin]]

You are making great progress David, nice work.
Best advice I can give you is this.
Take your time.
You are getting plenty of fantastic advise from those here who really know what they are talking about but take your time. Don’t feel rushed or pressured. This is an exciting time in your journey, one that involves you to learn new skills and prove that you can do a fantastic job. Savior it as much as you can specially if it is the first accurate costume you have built.
Keep posting plenty of photos, ask loads of questions and keep up the great work.


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[tat2trooper[TK]]

2 hours ago, Sly11 said:

You are making great progress David, nice work.
Best advice I can give you is this.
Take your time.
You are getting plenty of fantastic advise from those here who really know what they are talking about but take your time. Don’t feel rushed or pressured. This is an exciting time in your journey, one that involves you to learn new skills and prove that you can do a fantastic job. Savior it as much as you can specially if it is the first accurate costume you have built.
Keep posting plenty of photos, ask loads of questions and keep up the great work.


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man im really proud of myself.im learning a bunch of new stuff thanks to all you helpful troopers.i allready feel great knowing the things i accomplished so far.and look forward to all the little things i do to help me fine tune it and perfect it in any way.im very grateful to found out about this whole journey.thank you 501st.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

It's all about the research, although the CRL's are full of information they don't always have all the specifics needed to complete a build, hence referencing the gallery sections or having a build thread to receive feedback is the way to go.

 

There's no such thing as a silly question, there are only silly mistakes from not asking  

 

Doing great mate, looking forward to seeing the progress

[tat2trooper[TK]]

Ok more magnets finally came.my laptop black screened so I have to figure out a way to add pics without it.and some padding for inside bucket.also quick question do I have to have a holster? I do not own a e11 currently.

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Though a blaster is not required for basic 501st approval (due to availability and potential legal restrictions around the world), the holster is one of the required costume components of the ANH Stunt CRL. So yes, you will need to make or acquire one for approval.


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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 hour ago, Dolladolla916 said:

Ok more magnets finally came.my laptop black screened so I have to figure out a way to add pics without it.and some padding for inside bucket.also quick question do I have to have a holster? I do not own a e11 currently.

When in doubt check the CRL (costume reference gallery) https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

You'll notice there are two areas, Require Costume Components and Optional, the holster falls under a required piece. Although blasters are not required for approval they are required if you wish to obtain EIB or Centurion  

[tat2trooper[TK]]

6 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

When in doubt check the CRL (costume reference gallery) https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

You'll notice there are two areas, Require Costume Components and Optional, the holster falls under a required piece. Although blasters are not required for approval they are required if you wish to obtain EIB or Centurion  

ok i will add that to my wish list.and start reasearching for good quality ones that i dont have to work on much.

[tat2trooper[TK]]

check these back piece straps out.they are wider then the chest ones.is that normal? because it doesnt seem so.and i started trimming a little more off but i dont want to lose the return edge on them.what should i do? 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I only left a couple of mm's of return edge

 

[tat2trooper[TK]]

5 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I only left a couple of mm's of return edge

 

Even if I trimmed to no return edge it would still be wider then the front.

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi David, in my opinion you can trim the return edge a bit to avoid some "cracks"  and it's not a problem that  back section is a bit wider than the chest.  You could check some Anovos Building threads and compare.

 

                             Reference images

 

       

 

 

cheers

[tat2trooper[TK]]

4 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

Hi David, in my opinion you can trim the return edge a bit to avoid some "cracks"  and it's not a problem that  back section is a bit wider than the chest.  You could check some Anovos Building threads and compare.

 

                             Reference images

 

       

 

 

cheers

thanks alot.im going to trim it in a little more at least.

[tat2trooper[TK]]

so heres a thigh i did.im peeling off the back of the thigh because it wasnt held tightly enough.i finally got some better magnets in so should help alot.once i redo thigh im going to start trimming that back piece while the thigh is drying.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

57 minutes ago, tat2trooper said:

so heres a thigh i did.im peeling off the back of the thigh because it wasnt held tightly enough.i finally got some better magnets in so should help alot.once i redo thigh im going to start trimming that back piece while the thigh is drying.

 

 

Using painters tape can help too, push down on the area that lifts then while holding down wrap some painters tape around, it's amazing how much this can help.

 

Also your thigh cover strips should stop just above the lower ridge, they don't go all the way to the end

 

[tat2trooper[TK]]

36 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Using painters tape can help too, push down on the area that lifts then while holding down wrap some painters tape around, it's amazing how much this can help.

 

Also your thigh cover strips should stop just above the lower ridge, they don't go all the way to the end

 

i seen that as well.but i was thinking that was only the back thigh.the photos i was looking at ammo belt was covering it so i wasnt sure.dang it.thanks for the heads up.i will peel and trim this one back as well.

[tat2trooper[TK]]

21 hours ago, tat2trooper said:

i seen that as well.but i was thinking that was only the back thigh.the photos i was looking at ammo belt was covering it so i wasnt sure.dang it.thanks for the heads up.i will peel and trim this one back as well.

hows this look? 

[tat2trooper[TK]]

thinking i have to go a little higher

[tat2trooper[TK]]

i also noticed this.this was a previously attempted kit so the guy did the belt.i noticed the 2 holes.i was planning on buying a new belt anyways but do i have to buy a whole new belt plate as well? our are these easilt taken apart?

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Yes, you should bring that front thigh cover strip up just a little more, to the top of the ridge that runs around the bottom.

 

As for the belt, the four holster holes are for mounting a Hero-style holster, but since you’re doing a Stunt, it should only have the two holes closest to the bottom of the belt. For basic approval you might be able to fill the top holes to conceal them. And depending on how the previous owner built it, you should be able to remove the ABS belt from the fabric one; the three mounting points are hidden under the three belt buttons, which you’ll need to pry off.

 

Finally, for utmost screen accuracy, be sure your drop boxes line up with the outside ends of the ABS portion of the belt, as shown in this photo.

 

 

 

Hope this helps!

 

 

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[tat2trooper[TK]]

11 minutes ago, MaskedVengeance said:

Yes, you should bring that front thigh cover strip up just a little more, to the top of the ridge that runs around the bottom.

 

As for the belt, the four holster holes are for mounting a Hero-style holster, but since you’re doing a Stunt, it should only have the two holes closest to the bottom of the belt. For basic approval you might be able to fill the top holes to conceal them. And depending on how the previous owner built it, you should be able to remove the ABS belt from the fabric one; the three mounting points are hidden under the three belt buttons, which you’ll need to pry off.

 

Finally, for utmost screen accuracy, be sure your drop boxes line up with the outside ends of the ABS portion of the belt, as shown in this photo.

 

 

 

Hope this helps!

 

 

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yea the drop boxes arent glued or nothing into place so can slide over.im trying to think if i should leave this belt alone for hero and start a whole new one from beginning with new belt.or try and go for hero.i know hero id have to fill in one of the gaps on teeth so theres 6 openings if im correct.im going to look into it more.kinda at a crossroads i guess.do you have any suggestions for filling the top 2 holes?

[tat2trooper[TK]]

looking at reference photos of hero seems most work would be in the helmet specifically.tightening up the frown and touch up painting on my vocoder.not sure if those are black lenses or really dark green either onn the hero.

[tat2trooper[TK]]

ohh nevermind just found this.think i will stick to stunt.haha.

 

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Yeah it would take a lot of work to convert a Stunt helmet to Hero, especially an ANOVOS. The green bubble lenses and vocoder paint would be easy, but reforming the teeth would be a pain and you'd need to get new ears with three bumps, which would likely need to come from a different armor maker. As for patching the two belt holes, this first link below shows an example (though not much description of the process), and the second link is a long discussion on the topic.

 

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33916-anovos-anh-belt-problem/

 

EDIT: Here's a third link for good measure. Includes a bit more of a practical discussion

 

Edited November 11, 2020 by MaskedVengeance
Added additional link

[tat2trooper[TK]]

15 minutes ago, MaskedVengeance said:

Yeah it would take a lot of work to convert a Stunt helmet to Hero, especially an ANOVOS. The green bubble lenses and vocoder paint would be easy, but reforming the teeth would be a pain and you'd need to get new ears with three bumps, which would likely need to come from a different armor maker. As for patching the two belt holes, this first link below shows an example (though not much description of the process), and the second link is a long discussion on the topic.

 

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33916-anovos-anh-belt-problem/

 

EDIT: Here's a third link for good measure. Includes a bit more of a practical discussion

 

now that was some great reading in that thread.but i hear some say its ok for basic.i am going to be getting new belt and doing it all just didnt want to get hung up on it right this instance while i still have more to do on my own kit.great links.