Doomsdale's TK Stunt Build [WTF]

[Doomsdale[TK]]

Hello! 

 

Total newbie here to costuming and handiwork, and I'm diving headfirst into this. I'm looking for as much guidance possible while I build my kit, and I had a good feeling this place would help. I've poured over many other build threads and feel ready to start mine. Truthfully, I had my BBB day a while ago, but have been putting off the actual build until now.

 

As mentioned in the title, I sourced my kit from Walt's Trooper Factory. I've heard a lot of good things about this suit!

 

My goal is to have a Centurion level TK by the end of this.

 

 

 

Obligatory big brown box photos!

[Doomsdale[TK]]

For my references:

 

Trooperbay's Build Series on Youtube

 

StrmTRPR85's Build Thread

 

ANOVOS Build Thread

 

Helmet Build Thread

 

and the many other fellow builder's currently building (as well as CRL/images)!

Edited March 30, 2021 by Doomsdale

[Doomsdale[TK]]

My first real question is following where to trim the forearms. I took advice from many other threads about return edges, and think I've got that down just fine. 

 

 

But I'm having trouble discerning where to trim down the right side of these forearm pieces to attach the cover strip.

 

[PhilBobTheFish]

For the forearms, if you're arms aren't extra big or small, then you can trim the flat slide area to match the width of your cover strips. Trim equally from both sides, and the flat area will be around 12mm wide (if I remember correctly), as per the original suit. Then, you can tape the front, and slowly trim away at the back until it fits you comfortably. If you are going to need more room in your armor, leave the front wider, and use a wider coverstrip, and leave more plastic in the back. The important thing is having the front aligned, since it's a pre sculpted ridge, and even with your determined coverstrip. The back has more adjustability for your desired width. Then, once both sides are trimmed, you can tape it together as a mock finished piece, lined up with the bottom, and then trim the top to be smooth.

 

Since I probably worded this in a confusing way, I'll try to find some build threads or pictures to illustrate what I'm trying to say.

EDIT: here's ukswrath's section of forearms, and although it's an anovos kit, the basics of building armor can be carried over through most kits 

Also here's RS' video tutorial on building their forearm as per an original suit. These measurements are from the original suit, but the principle is the same, so you can alter the fit in the back to suit you.

 

Edited October 25, 2020 by PhilBobTheFish

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Another good video

 

[Doomsdale[TK]]

Ah! Okay I understand better now. I made the cut and taped together the left forearm.

 

Left Wrist:

 

Left elbow:

 

How it carries:

 

I'm have fairly skinny arms, so I'm afraid of cutting shorter. I'll probably end up putting some foam padding beneath it when the time comes. 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

20 minutes ago, Doomsdale said:

I'm have fairly skinny arms, so I'm afraid of cutting shorter. I'll probably end up putting some foam padding beneath it when the time comes. 

I have skinny arms also, add two pieces of foam which holds them tight and stops rotation  

[Doomsdale[TK]]

I went back to sand down some of the edges on both the forearms, and around the butt joints so they fit together better. I'm having the worst time with that! But I suppose it doesn't have to be perfect because the cover strip will hide it.

 

Anyway, I pre-assembled the right forearm.

 

Back:

 

Front:

 

Fits!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

A long block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around can help to sand areas straight.

 

Here's how I trim mine

Clamp a metal rule on the piece

 

Mark, trim

 

Sand if needed

 

Done

[PhilBobTheFish]

11 hours ago, Doomsdale said:

I went back to sand down some of the edges on both the forearms, and around the butt joints so they fit together better. I'm having the worst time with that! But I suppose it doesn't have to be perfect because the cover strip will hide it.

You're right, since it'll be covered by the strip, it isn't as important to get perfectly flush with each other. It's more of personal preference for how much time you want to put into those pieces, but a little gap is fine as long as it still looks the part once done. At that point, only you will know how it looks underneath.

 

As said, you can sand both sides flat so they line up. Or, another way it to leave about an extra mm on each side of the join, and after trimming, slightly overlap one side over the other and trace the profile of it's trim, then follow that on the other side. This'll get them up closer together with less of a gap, and can be done carefully with your cutting tool, because you're basically copying the unstraight line and making the other side match it, like a puzzle piece. Either way, as long as it looks good with a coverstrip and looks good on you, you should be golden. Or rather, shiny white 

[Doomsdale[TK]]

On 10/28/2020 at 11:07 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

A long block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around can help to sand areas straight.

 

Here's how I trim mine

Clamp a metal rule on the piece

That is actually brilliant. I can't believe I didn't think of that. I foraged up a sandpaper belt I can use for that purpose.

 

I started trimming the right biceps and feel pretty happy with that. I decided to leave some return edge on the bottom of it while trimming off the top to prevent biting.

 

There's a little bit extra that comes off at the top of the bicep that I can't find on anyone else's builds really and I think I need to trim it off. But it doesn't seem like the two pieces will really come together evenly if I do that. Should that extra at the top be cut off?

 

 

In the mean time, I've preassembled with tape.

 

 

Next, the left bicep!

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

A note regarding the bulge at the top of the biceps; it's recommended that they actually be removed. Here are some photos from and link to Joseph's guide to return edges.

 

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48166-return-edges-101-ottk/

 

 

 

 

Sent via Imperial Tapatalk Comms

[Doomsdale[TK]]

4 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said:

A note regarding the bulge at the top of the biceps; it's recommended that they actually be removed. Here are some photos from and link to Joseph's guide to return edges

Thank god. It was cracked anyway during the trimming. I didn't realize that post had more about the biceps when I read it.

 

I went on to the left biceps:

 

 

 

Reading some other users' concerns over the ovular shape to the biceps, and doing hot water baths, is it really a problem if you can comfortably fit in it?

[PhilBobTheFish]

If the biceps fit you well, and your shoulder bells fit over them and look the part, then there's no problem. Hot water bathing them would be to change the shape better to fit you, but since they already fit, no altering should be necessary.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I have skinny arms and had to add a little foam to the insides to help them sit right so don't worry too much if you find they are a little loose  

[Doomsdale[TK]]

Concerns over ovality aside, on to the shoulder bells!

 

From my understanding, they are interchangeable so let's get down to business.

 

 

I noticed from the pull there were were some a hole that moved went like 1/8'' from the extra and decided to trim there. I'm not broad, so I figured I could cut a little bit farther from the pull.

 

 

I used some tape to get a straight enough line around the bell:

 

 

And cut:

 

 

Just a little bump still left on, but no big issue I think.

 

 

I know it's recommended to cut off the return edge here, but I left some in for the moment, because why not?

 

 

Was pretty fast and easy, so went ahead and did the second shoulder bell:

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

A couple of references

 

 

 

[PhilBobTheFish]

5 hours ago, Doomsdale said:

 

I used some tape to get a straight enough line around the bell:

 

 

And cut:

 

 

Just a little bump still left on, but no big issue I think.

 

 

 

As you can see in the references of the original suit, the sides of the shoulder weren't cut perfectly straight. They were actually curved cuts, and this helps them fit closer to the chest and back in later assembly. Since you cut so close to the edge, you can always add the slight curve to the sides. Good work 

[TheSwede[TK]]

Here’s a pic to show it more clearly. Original to the left.

 

12 hours ago, Doomsdale said:

 

I know it's recommended to cut off the return edge here, but I left some in for the moment, because why not?

You can also see on the picture Glen provided (same bell) that there is indeed some return left at the bottom. So I did what you did and left some, it’s the most accurate  but, perhaps trim a tad more of the ”centerpart”, you can compare to the original.

 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Hey trooper,

Your trimming on the underside of the bells looks good.

I’m not sure you recommended removing all of the return edge. Aside from the wrist ends of the forearms, most parts of the ANH suit have at least a couple of mm of return edge.

Here’s some examples of the bells. Very similar return to what you’ve done. :-)

[Doomsdale[TK]]

Hello! Back at it from a small mental break.

 

I keep wanting to fix up what I have and eventually assemble with bonds, but I'm afraid of commitment. So to keep things moving I'll just remain doing what I know how to do: ripping at the seams I create.

 

Thigh time. The right side:

 

 

I opted for no return edge on the upper part for the sake of my moving areas.

 

 

Left a return-edge on the bottom however:

 

 

Without clear cut lines, I haven't started the back connection so I can fit it. I assume I have to cut off the lower part of it to match the ridges together and then fill with ABS. But what I don't see talked about is the apparent size difference between the two (about 5mm)?

 

 

 

 

 

[PhilBobTheFish]

For the thigh, you could take off more return edge on the bottom. It won't be visible, and will give your leg more flexibility. As for lining up the back, I would measure the top and bottom of your thigh, and a few inches, and then measure evenly on both the inner and outer part at the top and bottom. For example, a 25" diameter upper thigh, starting big, like 28 or 30 inches. Then measure from the front seam, around the inside along the bottom of the curve, and marking at around 14-15 inches, then measuring at the same height on the outside. Then for the bottom of the thigh, measure and add. Then, measure along the ridge, from the last corner to the edge of the piece, so that it will appear symmetrical. Connect the top mark with the bottom mark with a line on both pieces, and tape them together and test fit. From here, you can make it smaller or larger so it fits, and continue to test fit before cutting.

 

This might have been a confusing explanation, so hopefully someone else can answer or explain better.

[PhilBobTheFish]

Also, as for the difference  in the ridge height at the bottom of the thigh, I would like it up alone the top of the ridge, so that the cover strip can butt up against it evenly.

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi Mitch, you may want to take a look to this video, it was so useful to me when sizing my thigs.

 

 

[Doomsdale[TK]]

On 11/19/2020 at 12:33 PM, TKSpartan said:

Hi Mitch, you may want to take a look to this video, it was so useful to me when sizing my thigs.

 

 

On 11/19/2020 at 12:23 PM, PhilBobTheFish said:

Also, as for the difference  in the ridge height at the bottom of the thigh, I would like it up alone the top of the ridge, so that the cover strip can butt up against it evenly.

 

Both of your tips helped a lot I feel. I did some sizing and fitting and think I've reached a good cut on the thighs. I left a little bit of space in both. Enough to fit a finger between.

 

Left side:

 

Right side: