BlasterMaster 3D kit build

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

 I picked up a BlasterMaster kit from someone who didn't have the enthusiasm to sand and finish out all the 3D print lines and I do, so I'm giving it a go. Love the LEDs, nice and bright, but the sound not so much. Researching Anthony's sound board, maybe able to integrate it with the Red and Blue LEDs I already have, for barrel lights and want "Stun" and "Kill" sounds. The rest of the fancy displays I don't need....yet...

 Package arrived last night, and I got the 3 main barrel pieces glued together and got the "bolt" action to function. It needs more sanding so it doesn't sound like 2 pieces or ridged plastic rubbing together (which of course it is) on both the sliding section of the bolt assembly and the inside of the barrel where it slides. 1st rough sanding of entire barrel assembly and a coat of high build primer to dry all day today then the real fun begins. No sanding of the vent holes yet either. 

It's going to be a hell of a ride.   Pics to come.

Edited October 1, 2020 by Dax Corrin
Found out it's an ANH version so I'm no longer asking that question.

[T-Jay[TK]]

17 hours ago, Dax Corrin said:

 (...)   Pics to come.

  

 

Curious to see this coming along...

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Looking forward to seeing some photos and of course the progress

[Vader2015[TK]]

I have his kit and it is very good. I have been using it for the past 4 years as a daily troop. It is very light so holding it for hoirs is no big deal. I didnt use  the light n sound package that he sent as I wanted a fully operational blaster so i added 2 lazer diodes and integrated a blaster core into the magazine. Changed the flash to quad led for that high quality light and the running led on the muzzle  to double leds for the chasing effect when fired and gave it the full treatment. Its very loud and plays the part well. Dont skimp on the glue or as it dries it will crack over time in the print circles. For the handle even if you wont troop with it, use a light coat of glue to cover the handle before you paint. This helps hold the handle together although it is light it has alot of weight bearing down on this part especially when you are moving the  bolt action.  With the paint be generous to the corners as this will help holding things together. All in all it was a good buy for the price and worth the experience putting it together. Cant wait to see your build and hope you have as much fun as i did. 

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

First coat of high build primer, then sanded, and a second heavier coat not yet sanded on the barrel. I'm giving it a full 24 hours to cure the thick coat before sanding it. Probably need at least 1 or 2 more to fill the seams between pieces in the vented portion.

The magazine kind of put together. Still trying to figure out how to assemble the folding stock parts

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Very nice

[T-Jay[TK]]

On 10/3/2020 at 12:21 AM, Dax Corrin said:

(...)   Still trying to figure out how to assemble the folding stock parts

The video clips in the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference Gallery might help you with that.

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

I did figure it out, that particular picture in the assembly manual had me fooled. I then successfully glued my thumb to the folding stock assembly. It peeled a nice chunk off. I have the third coat of primer on but not yet sanded. 

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

Not a lot of pictures yet, will take some today. Much progress and a couple of setbacks but I overcame them. The stock lock that holds the folding stock to the barrel had the pin break off. I drilled out the lock and installed a new plastic pin in it, then adjusted so it holds the stock closer to the barrel. The folding stock shoulder rest also tended to droop under it's own weight. I discovered the locating pin that you use to glue the magazine holder to the barrel and then discard fits into the folding stock tube, thus making the spring "springier" that holds the shoulder rest up against the folding stock. Nice. The sound leaves much to be desired, have ordered Anthony B's sound kit and retrofit it in.

 I have also painted the stock and barrel and some other pieces with a satin black coat. I am not a skilled weatherer so that is a challenge. 

 I accidentally epoxied the folding stock pivot pin to the wrong location but discovered it and removed before the epoxy fully set. Pics to come after I clean up a place to take them.

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

And as promised, a few pictures. 600 grit wet sandpaper is a personal friend of mine. Spent some time on the magazine and then realized it was the under side, so more work on it, along with the work to remover the lines from the bottom. Folding stock works nice. Will likely work some more on the end cap, it still has lines. Hengstler counter still needs work on line clean-up and joint filling. The reset button feels like a reset button when  you press it. Ran out of satin black Krylon, need more. Working on the scope and the printed out reticle option, the glue is drying on the small end. 

Edited October 14, 2020 by Dax Corrin
correct spelling error

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

More time spent sanding but it will never be perfect. A more modern 3D printer with these files would do better. I used real screws to attach the Henglstler counter to the scope rail angle brackets. Might end up replacing super glue with real screws on the underside of the scope rail to the scope through the Hengstler brackets as well. More likely to survive some abuse with real screws. Started messing with the electronics for the trigger assembly, but not going to use the existing kit, as it sounds like sh*t. Anthony B's kit will be installed, as all I want is lights blue and red and sound stun and kill. The extra stuff like the scope display is cool but more $$.. Everything is looking good but will allow 24+ hours for paint to dry and harden. I am so antsy to work on it that I've messed up some of the paint by not letting it dry thoroughly. More pictures tomorrow Pacific time.

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

The artificial Allen head screws on the underside of the scope rail to barrel brackets interfered with the scope rail attaching to the barrel properly, so they are gone. I also ground down the heads of the real screws I'm attaching the brackets to the Hengstler counter with, so they don't rub on the barrel. The existing LED/sound chip wiring seems to be backwards on the sound selector switch, but I won't be using that portion. Will need to locate both the charge port and the selector switch for stun/kill sounds somewhere, and the speaker that came with the original kit is not very good. I'll get a better speaker that is the same size. More pics coming soon.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Great work so far. Painting can be the best and worst part. I understand your eagerness to keep working on it. I recently had a small mess up on another prop trying got work on it before the paint dried fully. 
 

keep up the great work! 

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

It already looks better than the Disney Parks blaster I use if no one objects. Much more detail. Will carry Crazy Glue with me in my kit in case bits want to pop off, that struggle WILL be real. 

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

Anthony's sound/LED kit uses common power, switched ground. The BlasterMaster used common ground but through a selector switch that isolated the grounds, so any time I plugged the 2 Blue and 2 Red BlasterMaster LEDS in at the same time they all lit up no matter what mode stun/kill.. It's cool to have a red and a blue at both the end of the barrel and at the breech which is the BlasterMaster idea so I'm retrofitting the Blastermaster LEDs to provide common power through the resistor for the breech LEDS, and using the provided AB LEDS for the barrel end LEDS. So far have the barrel end LEDS working and glued into place, and the barrel tip and Allen screws in place. Will tap the second LED set for the breech area in and still want to get a better speaker. Have some ideas for the selector between stun/kill so it won't be visible. Likely will place charge port behind magazine so just remove it to charge the battery. No more pics yet, but progress is being made. Still puzzling out the trigger as it doesn't seem to work based on the picture in the instructions. Will likely add a spring and epoxy the trigger switch in a place where it doesn't interfere with operation of stun/kill switch and has good "feel". This has been fun and it looks so much better then the cheap blaster I was using. Might take the little blaster with me to let kids hold when permitted and parents approve.

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

I have successfully converted the common ground 3 wire 2 LED set Red/Blue for the breech pair of the Blaster Master kit and so far have paired the 2 red together. The 2 end of barrel LEDS look nice. A new challenge is locating the sound/LED controller and the battery inside an E-11 blaster. I still have to locate a second switch for the stun/kill selector inside the trigger housing where the original selector as well. The sound/LED controller is fairly large and locating it so it can be turned on and off and  have room for the speaker and battery remain to be solved. The manual bolt cocking will likely need to be restricted. Will look into placing the battery inside a black insulated cover behind bolt inside spring. Much to work out electronically. 

I have added the wires from the Hengstler counter to the power cylinders and a TINY bit of silicone lubricant on the spring and pivot pins for folding stock makes it move and hold together much better. I will let it sit for several days before giving it all a coat of satin clear coat to protect the satin black. I'm just not certain I could do a good job weathering so it might be "new issue".

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

My soldering station sadly needs a new heater and tip. I was able to connect the second blue LED pair, but the red 2nd LED pair solder joint broke loose. I have another cheaper iron around somewhere but haven't found it yet. I've been working on melting some of the internal structure inside the magazine well to make room for the sound board and the speaker. I still have to reach the power switch too. I think I've made room for sound chip speaker and access for the switch. I may remove the LED that indicates power on as it gets in the way. More to come.

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

I found my other soldering iron, and finished tying the 2 pairs of front and rear barrel LEDS together, then trimmed the LED holder to fit where I had melted some internal structure to accommodate the sound driver board. All 4 LEDs work together in pairs red/blue as they should. Marked the plugs so I can plug them into the sound board correctly when the time comes. Will likely need to wrap the battery in something insulated and black to hide it inside the bolt spring, and drill a hole through the bolt to feed the battery lead into the magazine area through. Probably will leave the charge port loose but insulated inside the removable magazine area for charging when needed.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

It would be great to see any photos of the electronics and step of progress if you documented them. Electronics is still a foreign language to me so I am interested to learn more how builders mod existing kits or  build them from the ground up. 

The double laser diodes look cool. 

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

I won't be doing the double laser diodes, I just have 2 red and 2 blue LEDS mounted in muzzle 1 each and some shine down at bolt area red/blue also depending on sound selected. My years in US Navy helped train me for soldering and some mock-ups including flashing LEDS in my Gunner helmet and self-made fan kit both run off rechargeable 9V batteries. Pics coming soon, need a decent place to take them. 

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

I firmly believe one of my cats stole the outer switch piece that I had painted but not yet puzzled out the stun/kill selection switch mock-up. I think I have that figured out now but now have a friend printing up a replacement GR-5 piece. Will likely have to modify it's "clocking" to get the internal pin GR-6 to swing where I need it to and the outer switch to be pointing where it needs to. Will temp the switch in with hot glue to one side of the trigger housing, the trigger, it's switch and plastic spring are on the other. I'll be able to get both sets working before mating them together permanently. I'm also going to take an ink pen spring and cut it in half and use for both the trigger and the selector switches so I don't have to depend on printed plastic spring for the trigger cause once it's glued together... 

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

My friend has already printed me 2 more selector switches today, one for me and one for the cat.   I said Frak the cat! Anyway, now I can put together that side of the trigger area later tonight. 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I have similar issues with a Beagle, have to double check his mouth when ever he leaves the print area  

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

I had to paint the 2 new selector switches. Looks like it will work nicely to select stun/kill. I'll hot glue the switch in place on one side and test fit the entire assembly together before gluing and clamping. Looks like I won't be able to add a separate spring for the trigger, no place to put it that will pull in the correct direction. I will thin the area that presses against the plastic spring so less pull needed and less deflection to depress switch. I have admired your work from afar, Glen. A couple of officers in my garrison have your sidearms with the moving barrels, very nice!

[Dax Corrin[501st]]

Finally, some pictures. Not a good photo taker. The plugs seen in the magwell are for the red and blue LEDS in the end and bolt sides of the barrel. The sound board and speaker will go in the magwell once the matte clear is applied in another couple weeks' time once the paint fully cures, I do not desire any wrinkling of paint. Modifying the original stun/kill switching was a challenge as I need to make both the switch operate and have it all fit inside the trigger housing. I have figured out where to mount the switch, and will hot glue it in temporarily to make sure all fits together once the paint dries on this side of the trigger housing. Main trigger and it's switch are on one side, the stun/kill switch and it's actuator will be mounted on the other half. Then trim the trigger guard to fit. 

EDIT: The picture resizer made the pictures kind of wonky. Apologies.

 

Edited October 31, 2020 by Dax Corrin
note for photo resizer jacking up picture perspective