ANH Stunt - AP Trimmed - First TK Build

[MightyAtom[TK]]

I think I'm nearing the end of my build now. If you have time, I'd love feedback on what I need to work on or change before I post in the pre-approval thread. Thanks in advance for your help and a mighty thanks to everyone who gave me advice along the way. What a ride!

 

Note: I'm yet to make mobility cuts and after today's full fitting will shape the shoulder bridges a little more to get them lower at the back. I may also put some padding inside the AB plate so the kidney plate and AB plate stay aligned on the right side (the bottom seems to swing in a little when the belt is on).

 

PS - I love the wonky sniper plate!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[tarok[TK]]

TK porn!

Seriously though, great job, Mark. This should be a cake walk for our GML.

My only observation, or question, is whether you could drop your thighs a smidge?

[MightyAtom[TK]]

TK porn!

Seriously though, great job, Mark. This should be a cake walk for our GML.

My only observation, or question, is whether you could drop your thighs a smidge?

Thank you! What a journey.

Yes, for sure. The thighs are suspended on Velcro straps, so I can loosen and lower them, no sweat.

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[CableGuy[Admin]]

Superb job, Mark. Not a lot to report, really. You’ve made a really good job of your build and have clearly done your research. :-)

Oh, super photos, by the way. Makes it super easy to see all of the details.

There’s only a couple of areas I’d mention for potential tweaks for those higher levels of details.

Starting from the top, EXCELLENT job on your lid. Really has a lovely ANH vibe to it.

Only little thing I’d ask is; are the insides of you hovi tips white? Might be the lighting, but, I’m they look quite dark in there?




Bicep (Han) hooks; not sure if these will be questioned for EIB and Centurion. I’m not sure if they were ever seen on Stunt troopers (or even most hero troopers) so you could consider just fitting some internal elastics to keep a “troop worthy” bicep position.




Waist belt; I’m guessing this is a Kittle belt? They seem to make them with a very large padded central system. As below, the originals did not have that central section, so you could consider an upgrade for higher levels of accuracy. Not sure how this would go at Centurion level.




Lastly, from the front, the coverstrip on your left thigh caught my eye. This might not be possible due to the AP moulding (inner and outer lower ridge), however, you could consider shortening the coverstrip just a tad. Perhaps finding the middle point between the smaller ridge (inner part) and larger ridge (outer part)?




As the parts are different sizes, perhaps find a happy medium?




Reference;





Superb job, Mark. Can’t see you having any problems with basic, and, with a few little tweaks, those higher levels are well within your grasp.

[husky68[TK]]

Excellent set of armor


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[MightyAtom[TK]]

1 hour ago, CableGuy said:

Superb job, Mark. Not a lot to report, really. You’ve made a really good job of your build and have clearly done your research. :-)

Oh, super photos, by the way. Makes it super easy to see all of the details.

There’s only a couple of areas I’d mention for potential tweaks for those higher levels of details.

Starting from the top, EXCELLENT job on your lid. Really has a lovely ANH vibe to it.

Only little thing I’d ask is; are the insides of you hovi tips white? Might be the lighting, but, I’m they look quite dark in there?




Bicep (Han) hooks; not sure if these will be questioned for EIB and Centurion. I’m not sure if they were ever seen on Stunt troopers (or even most hero troopers) so you could consider just fitting some internal elastics to keep a “troop worthy” bicep position.




Waist belt; I’m guessing this is a Kittle belt? They seem to make them with a very large padded central system. As below, the originals did not have that central section, so you could consider an upgrade for higher levels of accuracy. Not sure how this would go at Centurion level.




Lastly, from the front, the coverstrip on your left thigh caught my eye. This might not be possible due to the AP moulding (inner and outer lower ridge), however, you could consider shortening the coverstrip just a tad. Perhaps finding the middle point between the smaller ridge (inner part) and larger ridge (outer part)?




As the parts are different sizes, perhaps find a happy medium?




Reference;





Superb job, Mark. Can’t see you having any problems with basic, and, with a few little tweaks, those higher levels are well within your grasp.

Hey Dan, Many thanks for your feedback. I truly appreciate it.

 

The Hovi mic tips are Ukswrath's speakers. I've taken another photo with the flash, here:

 

 

Thanks for the bicep and belt details. I'll make some decisions once I'm looking at higher levels.

 

As for that cover strip ont eh left thigh, yes, I contemplated the position for a while. Your suggestion would look good, so I'll add this to my list.

 

Thanks again and I appreciate your time. 

[MightyAtom[TK]]

Mark, you have an AMAZING build thread going here!  Very nice photography, great questions and SUPER feedback from the rest of the team.  I really enjoy seeing these threads and pouring over them!  So valuable to the new trooper.  I'm learning so much and each one of them is just a little different.  I've thought about why someone hasn't just made an instruction book or guide in how to do this, but fitting them to each human body is such a different challenge each time its done.  It's truly a custom work of art each time!
 
Keep up your fine work, sir, and best of luck in your completion.
 
Now get back to work!

Thank you! I appreciate the feedback. It's been an incredible learning journey for me and the entire Legion had been super helpful.

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[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, looking great, I'll just add watch the height of your thighs they differ in the rear photo.

 

Also drop boxes are not aligned in a few photos

 

I wouldn't add mobility cuts, you have some pretty big gaps there now and should get a lot of movement as is.

 

Good luck with approval.

[MightyAtom[TK]]

Nice work, looking great, I'll just add watch the height of your thighs they differ in the rear photo.

 
Also drop boxes are not aligned in a few photos

 
I wouldn't add mobility cuts, you have some pretty big gaps there now and should get a lot of movement as is.
 
Good luck with approval.

Thank you! Yes, you've picked up a good issue here - adjusting the thigh height (also mentioned by Tarok) will fix both the gaps and the drop boxes issue (they seem to have snagged on the thigh edges).

Thank you again!

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[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

FANTASTIC work on your build, Mark! Really a great looking finished product, and just those very few minor details for higher-level approval! You’ll make the Emperor proud!


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[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Looking awesome Trooper, easy pass!! 

Just few details mentioned by fellow Troopers. 

 

[MightyAtom[TK]]

FANTASTIC work on your build, Mark! Really a great looking finished product, and just those very few minor details for higher-level approval! You’ll make the Emperor proud!


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Thanks very much! I'm looking forward to joining the ranks!

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[MightyAtom[TK]]

Looking awesome Trooper, easy pass!! 
Just few details mentioned by fellow Troopers. 
 

Thank you!

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[BigCara[TK]]

Good work Mark!

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[Shinyarmour1[TK]]

Dude, your build is so awesome.  I hope it all works out for your approval 

[MightyAtom[TK]]

On 10/31/2020 at 7:43 PM, CableGuy said:

 

Personally, I prefer the blaster without - as you say, that’s most common in ANH.

 

Depending on how high you are aiming (pun intended), you could consider swapping out the power cylinders. Your’s look more like R1 style. Here’s a nice thread on the E-11; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17306-e-11-power-cylinders-research-thread-renamed-from-3-central-fuses/

 

Out of interest, what make is the blaster? I notice that they’ve made the central t-track a bit too long and the scope rail a little short. As below, the scope rail usually comes further forward, almost in line with the front of the magazine housing. The middle t-track is then one barrel hole for their forwards.

 

 

 

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Hey Dan, I've gone over the E-11 specs doc here on FISD and have take your suggestions for fixing the T-rail and scope, and removed the coils. I made a new scope rail out of some scrap metal and it looks great! I'll look at some replacement power cylinders next. Thanks for your advice. 

 

 

[MightyAtom[TK]]

I've submitted my GML! While I wait for a reply, I thought I'd take a look at L2/3 requirements. I have a feeling that the pre-drilled holes in the ammo pack are not to spec and I'm mentally preparing to dismantle the piece, fill holes, sand, smooth, drill, glue, etc. The holes are currently ~14mm from the top and end edges - will this meet L2/3, or what should the measurement be?

 

 

Edited November 8, 2020 by markgambino

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Good luck with approval, I hope you hear back soon, nothing worse than stalking your email account every 5 minutes  

 

There is no position given and I don't think the DO's will penalize position (unless it's miles out), here is the section from Joseph's references

For Level 2,  The thigh ammo belt is attached with one solid head rivet on each side, painted white, and located in the upper corner fastened to the lower thigh ridge.  Rivets shall be cap or split style rivets.  No pop rivets are allowed. 

 

                                               

 

                                                          Rivets should be approximately 5/16ths (8mm) in diameter (exterior).

 

                                                                               

 

NOTE:

Although not specifically listed in the CRL, in order to remain true to the "spirit" of screen accuracy and a better overall look we have historically insisted that the following issue be required for Level 3 approval:

 

                                        Back edges of ammo pack need to be an equal distance from the "corners" of the ridge at the rear. 

 

                            

 

Larger reference. If anything the rivet could be brought up a little on yours. Notice also that the lower corner is not fully rounded off, you can see where the curve starts and ends  

[MightyAtom[TK]]

Good luck with approval, I hope you hear back soon, nothing worse than stalking your email account every 5 minutes  
 
There is no position given and I don't think the DO's will penalize position (unless it's miles out), here is the section from Joseph's references

For Level 2,  The thigh ammo belt is attached with one solid head rivet on each side, painted white, and located in the upper corner fastened to the lower thigh ridge.  Rivets shall be cap or split style rivets.  No pop rivets are allowed. 

 

                                               

 

                                                          Rivets should be approximately 5/16ths (8mm) in diameter (exterior).

 

                                                                               

 

NOTE:

Although not specifically listed in the CRL, in order to remain true to the "spirit" of screen accuracy and a better overall look we have historically insisted that the following issue be required for Level 3 approval:

 

                                        Back edges of ammo pack need to be an equal distance from the "corners" of the ridge at the rear. 

 

                            

 

Larger reference. If anything the rivet could be brought up a little on yours. Notice also that the lower corner is not fully rounded off, you can see where the curve starts and ends  

Thank you! As always, you're a wealth of knowledge! I'll leave it for now and make a call once I start moving through EIB and Centurion applications. Thanks again.

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[MightyAtom[TK]]

On 10/31/2020 at 7:43 PM, CableGuy said:

 

Personally, I prefer the blaster without - as you say, that’s most common in ANH.

 

Depending on how high you are aiming (pun intended), you could consider swapping out the power cylinders. Your’s look more like R1 style. Here’s a nice thread on the E-11; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17306-e-11-power-cylinders-research-thread-renamed-from-3-central-fuses/

 

Out of interest, what make is the blaster? I notice that they’ve made the central t-track a bit too long and the scope rail a little short. As below, the scope rail usually comes further forward, almost in line with the front of the magazine housing. The middle t-track is then one barrel hole for their forwards.

 

 

 

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Hey Dan, per your advice I did some research on power cylinders while awaiting my GML outcome. I decided a cheap option would be to make my own! I printed out some photos and went to a local electronics store to assemble anything that could resemble a raw component I could then shape and paint. I'm pretty stoked with the results - thanks for your help!

 

Raw components

 

Testing glue on the glue sticks - metal plate from scrap metal

 

Painting

 

Assembling the capacitors

 

Soldering resistors

 

Painting and assembly of cylinders

 

Assembly and painting complete

 

The outcome!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Came out great, nice work

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Hey Dan, per your advice I did some research on power cylinders while awaiting my GML outcome. I decided a cheap option would be to make my own! I printed out some photos and went to a local electronics store to assemble anything that could resemble a raw component I could then shape and paint. I'm pretty stoked with the results - thanks for your help!
 
Raw components

 
Testing glue on the glue sticks - metal plate from scrap metal

 
Painting

 
Assembling the capacitors

 
Soldering resistors

 
Painting and assembly of cylinders

 
Assembly and painting complete


 
The outcome!

Wow - great work, Mark. What a lovely project, and very nicely done. :-)

[MightyAtom[TK]]

Wow - great work, Mark. What a lovely project, and very nicely done. :-)

Thanks! Short of tracking down a radar assembly from mid last century, it's the best I could do!

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[MightyAtom[TK]]

Came out great, nice work

Thanks mate! I have a few more small mods to make this week as well. Stand by for pics.

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[MightyAtom[TK]]

Hey team! I've had to resubmit some photos for my GML, but in the meantime I'm looking at L3 requirements for the rivets along the Ab and Kidney plates - I should have checked before assembly because the existing holes may be out. I want to double-check the details here before I start planning anything. So, this is 20mm from the top and 10mm from the edge?

 

 

The measurements I currently have on my AP kit are 13mm from the top and 13mm from the edge. It looks fine, but if L3 literally requirements measurements... well, like I said, just double-checking.