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Posted (edited)

I'll echo the "check the screen references" note. CRLs are a great guide, but screen references are the best if available. 

 

Something I noticed after the fact was that I didn't trim the gauntlet boxes (the part under the wrist) thin enough. Mine are a bit thick, but shouldn't be an issue. I face palmed after I realized what I did, only after gluing, painting, and sanding. Doh. 

I haven't showed attachment method yet (since I was waiting for chrome) but I left strips of abs on the side of the lower attachments. I intend to run a velcro strip along that piece and join it to the gauntlet along the inside. This makes it easy enough to adjust as necessary but I plan to leave it attached for slip-ons. 

 

Also, Holy Smokes! You're taking on the 3D printed helmet. Good on you. It's a worthy challenge for sure. You look to be on the right path. 

Edited by Sea_Marshall
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Sea_Marshall said:

I'll echo the "check the screen references" note. CRLs are a great guide, but screen references are the best if available. 

 

Something I noticed after the fact was that I didn't trim the gauntlet boxes (the part under the wrist) thin enough. Mine are a bit thick, but shouldn't be an issue. I face palmed after I realized what I did, only after gluing, painting, and sanding. Doh. 

Oh yeah!! I did end up attaching more references to my Forearm post. This is the image i'm basing how thick to make the wrist portion of the forearm:

6kcFyC2.png

I know it's blurry, but so far it's the best "head on" picture that shows the reflection and depth of the forearm.

Here's my cut:

661rGs9.jpg?1

And the sides (mimicking your method)

pEkU5MS.jpg

 

Now which side did you wish you cut down more?

Flat side:

LEc2nNi.jpg?1

Round side:

deFI853.jpg?1

 

Based on this screengrab, it seems like the bulk of what you can see is just the box (under her wrist)

WOE0OaR.jpg?1

Edited by indiechixor
Posted

You can also use screen and promo references for research

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Trim line added

YTaBR9p.thumb.jpg.188d1c547c008a0348a7344fb237ab1b.jpg

Same as FOTK

 large.untitledggggg.png.cd36426f034b7e29large.33806409_185130888874165_5546432543131172864_o.jpg.70137ab0dd6fd0ef9f8982e5c83bc25b.jpg.82b908b22ea09c1d641d0735ead04199.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I’m having sizing issues with my forearms being too small.

18d7c6ab5105f6c291fc2a46f3fc16cb.jpg&key=e3030bee93bb840fd30c88a7e7f4e4562e98819c8f0e062d6563899df3cf4acd

This reference photo is now blowing my mind. Based on this angle, the greebles are coming off the forearm quite a bit, and they are closer to the “top” than I’ve seen, which means I can maybe cut off another 1/2” and still be ok? (Basically where the blue tape is)

cbTQcrk.jpg&key=b6917670e7a2e80010f6f5830fc429071bb111523c197b9d8ac90e8bfb93991a

Currently this piece is sizing way too large otherwise.

d1kMbmI.jpg

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Bare in mind that replicated armor is never going to be exactly what was seen on screen so some allowances are given.

 

You could trim more from the sides as long as they don't look too squished, my forearms I've had to add a lot of foam as if I reduced them to fit they would look too thin.

 

I don't think you want to overhang the clips too much or you will end up catching them on things and they will break, just watch the width, you don't want to go too narrow

 

overhang.png.4ccd330673b0abb48b21cc3fa9137372.png

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

I've been AWOL for a while, but i'm back!

My 3D printer couldn't print my helmet in one piece, so I struggled with polishing out cut lines. My buddy print a new version 2.0 and I have to say, looks sexy as hell!GFZcE0w.jpg?1

  • Like 1
Posted

Welcome back Brit, helmet looks good and happy to see you are moving forward again.

The shape of the helmet looks skewed and I'm guessing because it was taken on a phone.  The key to getting a better photo is to zoom in x 2 then take the photo so the phone lens doesn't distort your photos.

You will find the proportions look much better :)

Posted

Nice work Brit :jc_doublethumbup:

 

Man I really need to get a table printer. My resin printers are great for small projects but after looking at this helmet I need to add to my printing arsenal :laugh1:

Posted
52 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

Nice work Brit :jc_doublethumbup:

 

Man I really need to get a table printer. My resin printers are great for small projects but after looking at this helmet I need to add to my printing arsenal :laugh1:

Yeah, he has the nearly 20-inch bed, mine is only 8"!! With That kind of bed space he makes all sorts of blasters, rifles, and buckets. This one is printed in PLA, just so I can size it. Then he's going to re-do it in ABS so we can chemically smooth it. Meanwhile i'm over here like "uhh I made a phasma ornament" :lol:

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

So i've had a lot going on, and had to put Phasma to bed for a minute. Thankfully, the weather is nice and garage is clean so she's back on the workbench. This is my accountability post before I jump back in and make an inventory of things I need to clean up and put together.

 

1) Tops of Boots are sanded/primed/painted... ready as they'll ever be for now

StFVGVp.jpg

2) Biceps are reinforced and green-stuff joined. Need to sand down and prime/spray

fX6CvV4.jpg

3) Forearms are assembled and ready for sanding and priming. Need to clean up the ridged rail and get that glued down

pSGjB9a.jpg

4) Box & greebles are sanded/ready to go, need to be attached.

xh0oKSG.jpg

 

Everything else is in a raw/unfinished state, figured I would do this one section at a time.

Edited by indiechixor
added pictures
Posted

Looking forward to seeing you back at it soon

Posted
Just now, gmrhodes13 said:

Looking forward to seeing you back at it soon

 

Thanks!  It's only been a year since starting, but with Celebration looming May of 22, I now have a hard deadline!

  • Like 1
Posted

Updates! I got my forearms and biceps completed, with greeblies, and a first layer of primer. Pretty happy with how hidden the join lines are on these

Mn0mTIA.jpg

aE3IRCB.jpg

tLUs9eG.jpg


Obviously these need sanding, but moving on to my next big project, chest and back!

Posted

Looking good Brit, a bit more filler and sanding and you should be good to go. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Oh good to see more progress, keep it up Brit.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks [mention]Sly11 [/mention]! I’ve been squirreling away in the garage whenever possible… I’m thinking of starting on the Abs/back of abs, probably going to do a similar closure that [mention]TheSwede [/mention]used.

updates from the last few nights:

I placed the resin cutout into my breastplate (talk about scary)
dp7R8tH.jpg

Cut/reshaped the ‘yolk’ and glued it to the back piece
c1ybZGh.jpg

Touched up the biceps and forearms, after wet-sanding these I ended up putting another layer of filler, just needs more primer!
xJFntTv.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Just looking through a few of your images and there are a few areas which will need some more sanding, perhaps filling too. With Phasma the base needs to be as flat as you can get it as every blemish will show in the final stage.

aE3IRCB.thumb.jpg.1a2e0fdf3dc09c3586c005761dcd33b7.jpg

 

 

When sanding filler you can wrap sandpaper around a small block of wood, helps to sand flat raised areas or you can purchase a rubbing block from an automotive store

s-l400.jpg

 

Once your armor is finished and you have sprayed a few coats of spray putty or primer/filler you can then give a light mist spray with black, this helps when wet sanding (or dry sanding) to show high and low areas, any areas with black remaining will need more filling.

 

https://www.renownauto.com/blog/entry/what-is-a-guide-coat 

 

b2ap3_thumbnail_Pic_46319.jpg

 

A couple of videos on guide coat and block sanding

 

  • Like 2
Posted
5 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Just looking through a few of your images and there are a few areas which will need some more sanding, perhaps filling too. With Phasma the base needs to be as flat as you can get it as every blemish will show in the final stage.

aE3IRCB.thumb.jpg.1a2e0fdf3dc09c3586c005761dcd33b7.jpg

 

 

When sanding filler you can wrap sandpaper around a small block of wood, helps to sand flat raised areas or you can purchase a rubbing block from an automotive store

 

 

Once your armor is finished and you have sprayed a few coats of spray putty or primer/filler you can then give a light mist spray with black, this helps when wet sanding (or dry sanding) to show high and low areas, any areas with black remaining will need more filling.

 

https://www.renownauto.com/blog/entry/what-is-a-guide-coat 

 

A couple of videos on guide coat and block sanding

 

 

Hey I appreciate those resources, but maybe you missed the updated photo?

6 hours ago, indiechixor said:


Touched up the biceps and forearms, after wet-sanding these I ended up putting another layer of filler, just needs more primer!
xJFntTv.jpg


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I'm already wet-sanding and adding additional spot putty. 

 

Posted

Sand sand, primer primer. These will need light touch filler putty, and another couple passes with the primer

kHweYiJ.jpg

KSm2FXj.jpg

T1FGu2b.jpg

TdrLs0i.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Picture-heavy update!

First, I’m pleased to have "finished" my initial sand/primer phase on these, and setting these aside until later.

UNLqHNy.jpg

cbEPlJ3.jpg

1Rib90M.jpg

jdc5lej.jpg

N2uPOC4.jpg

Next, I finally glued the bells and sanded best I could. Not perfect, but the tops won’t be seen much.

qkIoVWQ.jpg

2TtWTUM.jpg

gSr7btY.jpg

OkdMdQG.jpg

And then, the abs… I’ve gone with joining the sides, and separated the back to use a clasp to close. I’ve sanded down the sides to make closing it that much easier.

S6VEH93.jpg

WjTihWH.jpg

wSOibPv.jpg

K8n7wQX.jpg


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  • Like 2

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