TK-19024 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status (RS Prop Masters) [992]

[Ghostrider[TK]]

Name: Craig Whyte

TK-ID: 19024

Forum Name: Ghostrider

Garrison: Outpost 42

Legion Profile: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=32877

 

Armor: RS Prop Masters

Helmet: RS Prop Masters

Undersuit: RS Prop Masters

Blaster: RS Prop Masters

Neckseal: RS Prop Masters

Gloves: RS Prop Masters

Belt: RS Prop Masters

Boots: Imperial Boots

 

Size: 1.78m

Weight: 70kg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work trooper, a couple of suggestions you may want to take on board before the DO's get to work

 

Your thigh ammo strip rivets are very close the the edge 

 

You may want to move your handguards further forward they appear to be hitting your forearms. Also add some foam behind your sniper plate to help hold it away from your thigh or it may get caught when walking and bending

 

You may want to trim the curve from the sides of your sniper plate

example

 

Just watch your sides too as in one of your images the AB and Kidney are misaligned at the top on your side image

 

Can you also post an image of your right side top ab snap

 

Good luck with approval

 

 

 

[Ghostrider[TK]]

Thanks for the feedback. I have included some additional images of the snap (hope it the one you were referring to, still a bit new at all this:) ) I actually got a second pair of gloves and moved the handguards up because I was worried the gaps were too large. I have included pictures with the original gloves and handguard placement and it does look a lot better but would welcome any comments on the gap. That is a good idea regarding foam to push the sniper plate out and reducing the curve is something I could have a look at. I am not sure what I could do about the ammo strip rivets. This was a commision build by RS Props and that is where they put them. I have looked at your image and can see what you mean. I had a bit of look in the galleries in the 501st at the ANH images and it does not look like there are some with the rivet closer to the corner. Would there have been variation from armour to armour?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

5 minutes ago, Ghostrider said:

 Would there have been variation from armour to armour?

The DO's try to use consistent clear images when possible although there's always the odd trooper that can be different. It will really be up to the DO's to call on so don't stress for the time being.

 

Even the "Han" snap is a little far away from the edge but as you say it is a commission so again it's up to the DO's

 

 

 

That's a much better gap from handplate to forearm

[shashachu[TK]]

Hi Craig,

 

Thanks for the updated photos; agree the hand plate positioning looks a lot better.

 

In regards to your TD screws, what color are they?

 

 

     

 

The L2 CRL says 

Clips shall be attached with slotted type, flat or dome top style screws, and be black (two per clip).

 

It could just be the light, but yours look like they may be silver. If they are, 5 minutes with some black paint should be all that you need, and then we can proceed with your application. Otherwise, if you can post photos that show they're already black, that would be fine as well.

 

Reference Image:

 

Thanks!

[Ghostrider[TK]]

Hi, Thank you for that. I am currently at work but will get that sorted when I get home. They are black on top but as per the image I definitely see they could use a better coverage on the sides.

[shashachu[TK]]

No problem! We'll be here when you're ready. Thank you!

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Almost there Trooper!!   Your EIB badge is around the corner, 

[Ghostrider[TK]]

I have taken the screws out and given them a coat of black paint. They came out nice and definitely adds some contrast against the silver tabs. 

 

 

 

 

[shashachu[TK]]

Hi Craig,

Thanks for your application and for the adjustment with your hand plates.

 

CRL and EIB Application Requirements

All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Expert Infantry rank. On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations!  

 

Other-Armor Fit/Assembly

In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions.

Starting from the top, a couple suggestions with your brow trim.

 

First, the brow trim usually ends around the end of the trap, so you can simply snip off the end. Next, Stunt helmets in general had their brow trims slightly higher (unlike Hero helmets which had very low brow trim), so if you'd like to match that classic Stunt look, we're suggesting that you scoot it up a a couple mm.

 

  

 

Reference Image:

  

 

Continuing with the helmet, this is something we suggest only for trooping, not for screen accuracy. Many of us add some sort of black cloth or mesh behind the helmet teeth in order to prevent people at troops from seeing our faces. Again it's not for screen accuracy, simply a suggestion to help preserve that movie magic.

 

 

Reference Image

 

Moving lower, it appears as if your neck seal or perhaps your undershirt is sticking out the back of your armor. The next time you get suited up, just have a handler ensure everything is tucked in securely.

 

   

 

Reference Image:

 

Next, as was already pointed out, the screen-used suits tended to have their sniper knees trimmed more sharply, rather than rounded.

 

  

 

Reference Image:

 

Moving on, the rivet holding on your ammo knee pack is quite close to the corner. Ideally it'd be moved in a bit.

 

 

Reference Image:

 

Finally, in your most recent set of pics I noticed there's a bit of a gap between one of the TD clips and the panel. Ideally it would be flush.

 

 

Reference Image:

 

Centurion Requirements

In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here.

Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper.

 

Starting again from the top, your trap paint is quite small compared to the molds in the helmet, so we'd like you to expand it to fill the available space.

 

  

 

Reference Images:

  

 

Moving on, the L3 CRL states:

 

Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor.

 

Yours are present, but the positioning is off compared to the screen-used suits. This is one of those instances where we do rely on visual reference rather than just the text of the CRL. You'd need to remove the rivets, drill new holes, and fill the olds ones. A fair bit of work, but it can definitely be done. While you're in the area, you should also touch up the white paint of the upper rivets.

 

 

Reference Images:

Note that the measurements don't need to be exact, but they should look visually similar. We do realize the curve in the RS abdomen armor can make exact positioning difficult.

 

  

 

 

Similarly, your 'Han' snap is present, but also positioned farther away from the edge than we'd like. Again, you'd need to drill out the snap, reposition it, and fill the old hole.

 

 

Reference Image:

  

 

Next, the L3 CRL states:

Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.

 

Yours are just a bit too far in. Many of us add a bit of glue to the drop box elastic to keep them in place.

 

 

Reference Image:

 

Finally, the L3 CRL states:

Hand guards shall be latex or latex-like, solid white or painted white, and affixed to rubber gloves with no visible strapping or stitching.

 

Your hand guards appear to be ABS, so they would need to be replaced for Centurion.

 

 

Reference Image:

 

Finally, this may simply be a reflection, but it appears you may have some metallic weathering on the grip of your blaster. The L3 CRL states:

The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic.

 

 

Reference Image:

 

And that's it! We hope to see your Centurion application soon, but until then, please accept our hearty congratulations for reaching EIB!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Congratulations and welcome to the EI ranks trooper

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Congratulations Trooper, Welcome to EIB .  

[Ghostrider[TK]]

Quote

 

Very humbling to be awarded the EIB, thank you very much. Even more special to be number 992 and part of the 1000:)

 

I am very new to this and am in awe of the quality armour that 501st members are creating. I have to admit my armour is a commision build from RS Props. I am keen to progress to Centurion in the near future and really appreciate the feedback and detail that has been given to assist me with this. I do have a few questions and responses to help me on my way to the next level.

 

The neckseal was laziness on my part not checking it before I got my daughter to take the application pictures

 

In future I will take photo's in more natural light as there was a reflection on the blaster grip from an overhead light.

 

The helmet, belt, sniper plate and thermal detonator are aspects I can start working on.

 

Below are the pictures of my gloves. The ABS plastic handplates are designed to sit over top of the fixed handplates and are held on by straps. Do the fixed handplates on the gloves meet the requirements as descibed for Centurion? They are a touch bumpy in a few areas and would require a sand for a smooth finish if they do fit the requirements.

 

 

 

 

My biggest question is around the the abdomen armour and knee ammo pack. I can see exactly what you mean about the positioning of rivets for both of these. The positioning of where these should go are close to the current positions. As a newbie with this would filling in a hole from a current rivet and drilling a new hole in some cases very close cause any issues with the strength and potential cracking in the future? I have done a little bit of reading about making ABS paste. Because the current holes would be small is it a relatively simple process of putting ABS paste in the holes, allowing it to set then sanding it to a smooth finish? I asssume that that after the holes are filled they would then need to be painted and potentially the whole area to match the colour?

 

Sorry for the barage of questions but I thought I would strike whille the iron is hot and my application is still fresh in the meomory. Again, thank you for the feedback.

 

[Sly11[Admin]]

Congratulations Craig, welcome to the 1000 sir.

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

4 hours ago, Ghostrider said:

My biggest question is around the the abdomen armour and knee ammo pack. I can see exactly what you mean about the positioning of rivets for both of these. The positioning of where these should go are close to the current positions. As a newbie with this would filling in a hole from a current rivet and drilling a new hole in some cases very close cause any issues with the strength and potential cracking in the future? I have done a little bit of reading about making ABS paste. Because the current holes would be small is it a relatively simple process of putting ABS paste in the holes, allowing it to set then sanding it to a smooth finish? I asssume that that after the holes are filled they would then need to be painted and potentially the whole area to match the colour?

 

Sorry for the barage of questions but I thought I would strike whille the iron is hot and my application is still fresh in the meomory. Again, thank you for the feedback.

Hi Craig 

 

In my experience, making new holes and filling the old ones with ABS haven't cause any issue with cracking or something like that. I would recommend to make some test first with a piece of ABS , once you feel confidence with the procees, you can do the fix.

 

I have another tip , I have recently used for this fix :

 

1- Glue a little circle of ABS behind the old hole to give some support  (I have used " Zap a Gap" glue for fast dry.)

 

2- Fill in  the front of the hole with another small ABS circle  

3- Apply a bit abs paste if needed  just to fill any minimal gap.

 

4- Sand a bit with a super fine sand paper and Polish with Car polish to give some shinning or glossy finish.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope this can help.  

 

 

 

 

 

[GoofTrooper[TK]]

Congratulations on your EIB approval and being part of the 1000!

[Chemi[Staff]]

Congratulations Craig!!!!!!... 

[Ghostrider[TK]]

Thanks for all the comments on achieving the EIB:) Also thanks TK Spartan on the tip for strengthening the hole patch. Makes a lot of sense to stick a small piece of ABS on the back and double the thickness.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Congratulations Craig, beautiful job. Welcome to EI sir