Doopydoos Centurion Mods

[CoolHandLAZ[TK]]

Hi all!

 

So I'm trying to decide between going for a rubber blaster or completing a Doopydoos full resin kit (which I already have acquired) for trooping. I've been searching for Centurion requirements for the E11 but I couldn't find any specific thread. I'm assuming I should just look at the reference pics and make it look exactly like that.

 

Anyyyyways, so I know one of the mods I’d have to make is to replace the magazine. Many people here have suggested Gazmosis, but I guess he's not making them anymore. Any other recommended vendors? Is the Doopydoos pretty solid right out of the box (other than the mag, the D-ring, and the rail)?

 

I've been reading build threads but it seems everyone has their own way . This is great but a tad overwhelming. Definitely can use some advice.

 

I'm just trying to weigh my options and see the costs of the resin vs a rubber. I have minimal experience with blaster building 

 

Thanks!!

Edited July 5, 2020 by CoolHandLAZ

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi Luke,

 

For E11 Blaster reference you may want to look this Thread

 

I use a Praetorian Blasters Rubber  E11 , and have moded a Hasbro E11 with the Doopy Doos conversion resina   Kit and have seen some videos in You Tube about Doopy Doos E11 kit.

 

In my opinion:

 

Rubber Blaster is better for Trooping , it  resist falls and shocks, while the resin, although it looks strong, can suffer fractures when falling or hitting. 

 

Obviously the cost is a big difference between both.  I have read some trooper to have both, but it's your choice.

 

Hope this can help.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

[CoolHandLAZ[TK]]

5 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

Hi Luke,

 

For E11 Blaster reference you may want to look this Thread

 

I use a Praetorian Blasters Rubber  E11 , and have moded a Hasbro E11 with the Doopy Doos conversion resina   Kit and have seen some videos in You Tube about Doopy Doos E11 kit.

 

In my opinion:

 

Rubber Blaster is better for Trooping , it  resist falls and shocks, while the resin, although it looks strong, can suffer fractures when falling or hitting. 

 

Obviously the cost is a big difference between both.  I have read some trooper to have both, but it's your choice.

 

Hope this can help.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cool cool thanks for the info! I spoke with @TheRascalKing as well and he also recommended the rubber blaster. I'm planning on trooping a bunch when I get approved down the line so this seems like the best choice.

 

Mostly I was trying to weigh the cost of the rubber (Centurion approved out of the box) vs the cost of the parts to mod the Doopydoos + build time to make it Centurion approvable. I'm very back and forth about it lol.

 

Appreciate it! 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Hiya,

Just to show the other side of the coin, I’ve trooped my resin DD E-11 for two years and haven’t once dropped it. If you want the more detailed blaster, just being careful with it can keep it in mint condition. :-)

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

 

For Centurion level, the requirements for the E-11 are listed towards the bottom of the CRL page here, Luke.  When deciding on which type you prefer, it comes down to a few things:

1.  Rubber- 

Good points:

Basically indestructible, and many (but not all) are approvable at Centurion level.  A nice choice when you want to let someone hold it for a photo.

Bad points:

Not as screen accurate/realistic.  (But then again, 99% of the public won't notice) .  Can cost several hundred dollars for a quality one.

 

2.  Doopydoos-

Good points: 

Fairly inexpensive and can be modified to look incredibly realistic with some attention to detail and replacement parts.  Great for those with mild OCD (like myself) and a lot of time on their hands to do this. 

Bad points:

Being made of resin, they need to be handled a little more carefully.  I personally never let anyone hold my weapons, saying something along the lines of "The Emperor/Lord Vader forbids it" or "It's against Imperial regulations" when they ask.  I have built and trooped with several DD resin E-11's through the years and never had a breakage issue.   Long wait times for delivery (often out of stock).

 

3.  3D print-

Good points:

Relatively inexpensive.  Can be very accurate depending on the designer and can be modified in certain cases for a more realistic appearance.

Bad points: 

Can be somewhat fragile (like the resin type).  Also, depending on the printing method there can/will be a LOT (think hours and hours) of sanding/filling involved to smooth out all the print lines, a requirement for Centurion level.

 

A lot of it also depends on your budget.  Being a little lot on the OCD side,I modified the heck out of my last DD build using a real Sterling magazine (modified) link here.  I also used this same seller to replace the resin folding stock, rear cap, cocking handle, magazine well, front sight assembly and a bunch of other items with metal ones.  This may seem a little extreme, but being an accuracy nut it was worth it.

And, of course, I personally would never do a DD build without one of Tino's crazy-accurate E-11 finishing kits. 

 

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Don't forget you will also need to include any EIB requirements as well as you need to clear EIB before submitting to Centurion  

[CoolHandLAZ[TK]]

18 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

 

For Centurion level, the requirements for the E-11 are listed towards the bottom of the CRL page here, Luke.  When deciding on which type you prefer, it comes down to a few things:

1.  Rubber- 

Good points:

Basically indestructible, and many (but not all) are approvable at Centurion level.  A nice choice when you want to let someone hold it for a photo.

Bad points:

Not as screen accurate/realistic.  (But then again, 99% of the public won't notice) .  Can cost several hundred dollars for a quality one.

 

2.  Doopydoos-

Good points: 

Fairly inexpensive and can be modified to look incredibly realistic with some attention to detail and replacement parts.  Great for those with mild OCD (like myself) and a lot of time on their hands to do this. 

Bad points:

Being made of resin, they need to be handled a little more carefully.  I personally never let anyone hold my weapons, saying something along the lines of "The Emperor/Lord Vader forbids it" or "It's against Imperial regulations" when they ask.  I have built and trooped with several DD resin E-11's through the years and never had a breakage issue.   Long wait times for delivery (often out of stock).

 

3.  3D print-

Good points:

Relatively inexpensive.  Can be very accurate depending on the designer and can be modified in certain cases for a more realistic appearance.

Bad points: 

Can be somewhat fragile (like the resin type).  Also, depending on the printing method there can/will be a LOT (think hours and hours) of sanding/filling involved to smooth out all the print lines, a requirement for Centurion level.

 

A lot of it also depends on your budget.  Being a little lot on the OCD side,I modified the heck out of my last DD build using a real Sterling magazine (modified) link here.  I also used this same seller to replace the resin folding stock, rear cap, cocking handle, magazine well, front sight assembly and a bunch of other items with metal ones.  This may seem a little extreme, but being an accuracy nut it was worth it.

And, of course, I personally would never do a DD build without one of Tino's crazy-accurate E-11 finishing kits. 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for this info Joseph! This gives me lots to consider.

 

My biggest concern overall about the Doopydoos kit is dropping and breaking it (or it breaking in transit and whatnot). I'm a careful person but sometimes I get a little "in my head" about things breaking. 

 

I do have the Doopydoos full resin kit already, but if I had to pick the mods that would protect the blaster the most (ie. areas that are prone to breaking), which would you recommend? I do like the aluminum replacements parts that you linked to. Off the bat I was already thinking the folding stock as that seems a little on the fragile side with the resin. I want to make it as accurate as possible, but also factoring cost vs. cost of a rubber blaster.

 

And I've heard great things about Tino's kit so I'll check that out as well!

 

Cheers!

Edited July 5, 2020 by CoolHandLAZ

[CoolHandLAZ[TK]]

7 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Don't forget you will also need to include any EIB requirements as well as you need to clear EIB before submitting to Centurion  

Absolutely! Definitely will keep that in mind 

[CoolHandLAZ[TK]]

12 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Hiya,

Just to show the other side of the coin, I’ve trooped my resin DD E-11 for two years and haven’t once dropped it. If you want the more detailed blaster, just being careful with it can keep it in mint condition. :-)

Copy that! I definitely have a lot to consider haha. Good thing I have time to decide since I'm still building my armor 

[CoolHandLAZ[TK]]

Ive been looking at the Hellhounds rubber blaster and it looks super nice. Plus the durability. I keep jumping around haha. Just trying to find out as much info as possible.

Edited July 5, 2020 by CoolHandLAZ

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

4 hours ago, CoolHandLAZ said:

Ive been looking at the Hellhounds rubber blaster and it looks super nice. Plus the durability. I keep jumping around haha. Just trying to find out as much info as possible.

That is not one I am familiar with.. do you have photos or a link to view it?

 

12 hours ago, CoolHandLAZ said:

I had to pick the mods that would protect the blaster the most (ie. areas that are prone to breaking), which would you recommend? I do like the aluminum replacements parts that you linked to. Off the bat I was already thinking the folding stock as that seems a little on the fragile side with the resin. I want to make it as accurate as possible, but also factoring cost vs. cost of a rubber blaster.

 

If you could only pick one, it would be the cocking handle.  Since it's pretty thin and sticks out it can be prone to snapping off, so a metal one would be the way to go.  The resin folding stock should be fine as long as it is well secured to the barrel.  If you do decide to go with the metal folding stock shoot me a PM and I can give you some pointers.

[CoolHandLAZ[TK]]

8 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

That is not one I am familiar with.. do you have photos or a link to view it?

 

If you could only pick one, it would be the cocking handle.  Since it's pretty thin and sticks out it can be prone to snapping off, so a metal one would be the way to go.  The resin folding stock should be fine as long as it is well secured to the barrel.  If you do decide to go with the metal folding stock shoot me a PM and I can give you some pointers.

Caleb did a review on it and it looks really nice.

 

 

 

 

And thanks again for the info on all the parts and your recommendations! I'm going to think about everything and take into account all the things we're talking about with durability, accuracy and cost. I appreciate it!