TheDecisiveRaindrop[TK] Posted July 2, 2020 Report Posted July 2, 2020 So after almost 5 months of waiting for BBB day, it still hasn’t arrived yet. My vendor says it should be another week or so until is ships. Decided to bust out a project I meant to have done months ago, which is a Doopydoo kit. I’ll get pictures posted as soon as I can figure out how on Tapatalk. I keep getting errors. I have most of the parts primed, and will begin gluing the parts together before I add one last primer coat (My coats aren’t exactly thorough)Edit: Pictures are working now. 2 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted July 2, 2020 Report Posted July 2, 2020 Looking forward to seeing the BBB photos Quote
CableGuy[TK] Posted July 3, 2020 Report Posted July 3, 2020 Oooo, I love a nice DD build. Look forward to seeing your progress. :-) Quote
TheDecisiveRaindrop[TK] Posted July 5, 2020 Author Report Posted July 5, 2020 Decided before I put my last coat of primer, I’d start gluing together the pieces. Between the months of me opening the box and painting the pieces, I ended up loosing the rear crosshair and the D-ring, but thankfully for me I can 3d print replacements.Oh, I also printed out a rail. The rail will be further sanded, as well as a few more coats of paint. It wasn’t my best print, but it is certainly useable. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted July 5, 2020 Report Posted July 5, 2020 If it were me, I would reconsider using a 3D printed rail, JR. The reason being is that it will be pretty thin, and since you will have not only the scope, but the Hengstler counter as well mounted to it, if it gets bumped hard the rail could break. Ouch. I would seriously think about using steel or aluminum. You can pick up a 3/4 wide strip from Lowe's for a few bucks (in the hardware area), cut it to length and cut/bend then end. There is an EXCELLENT tutorial here that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?do=findComment&comment=414706 Although you can order the one piece metal ones (bracket attached to the rail as seen on your 3D printed one) online, I just bought an L shaped bracket (Lowe's), screwed it to the counter and then to the rail. 1 Quote
TheDecisiveRaindrop[TK] Posted July 5, 2020 Author Report Posted July 5, 2020 25 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said: If it were me, I would reconsider using a 3D printed rail, JR. The reason being is that it will be pretty thin, and since you will have not only the scope, but the Hengstler counter as well mounted to it, if it gets bumped hard the rail could break. Ouch. I would seriously think about using steel or aluminum. You can pick up a 3/4 wide strip from Lowe's for a few bucks (in the hardware area), cut it to length and cut/bend then end. There is an EXCELLENT tutorial here that will help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?do=findComment&comment=414706 Although you can order the one piece metal ones (bracket attached to the rail as seen on your 3D printed one) online, I just bought an L shaped bracket (Lowe's), screwed it to the counter and then to the rail. I was originally going to use an aluminum rail, but last night I decided to go for a less conventional route that may sacrifice accuracy. I’m already in the process of 3d printing an M38 hollowed scope and keep the resin scope for another project I have planned. Regardless, I’ve reinforced the rail and supported the ammo counter bracket and it is surprisingly solid. Granted this is not a trooping blaster with the soul intent is just something for me to play around with. I have no doubt will break with prolonged use, but for the time being, I’m happy with this stop gap measure of putting a wooden piece under the ammo bracket. The rail isn’t flexing, and I’ve made more surface area for the ammo counter to be securely glued and fastened. Thinking I may use an epoxy weld to make sure everything is solid just as a further precaution. I am really glad you provided that link however, because now I have a backup plan for when mine eventually fails, although I still want to give this a shot. Quick question though, what height should the ammo counter be? I tried looking at the gallery section but couldn’t really find any detailed pictures for the E-11. I looked through the high res ANH blu-ray pictures and it seemed that the blasters with the counters had them lower, basically resting on the stock. I don’t really trust any of the google image results. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted July 6, 2020 Report Posted July 6, 2020 20 hours ago, TheDecisiveRaindrop said: Quick question though, what height should the ammo counter be? These should help give you a good idea... 2 Quote
TheDecisiveRaindrop[TK] Posted July 24, 2020 Author Report Posted July 24, 2020 Bit of a status update with my blaster. The magazine has been added to the reciever and glued to the pipe. I painted the blaster a silver color, giving it 2-3 good coats before I put on a solid first coat of black paint, then a lighter coat later on. All was going well so far.After I put on a black coat, tragedy struck and the magazine assembly broke off. I was using E6000 which I now understand why from experience it is the recommended glue, but it wasn’t quite strong enough for my liking. I then sanded down and removed the paint where the ammo counter was gonna be mounted. Next came the part where I added some wood to the magazine assembly to give it more surface area to cling on to. I used a 3900 psi epoxy, and this was my first time using an adhesive that strong. I wore a respirator and gloves while working with it.Got the scope and the rest of the greeblies attached, except for the end cap. That’s just resting there. I had the shell ejection port masked along with the T rings. The ejection port is still the silver color that I put on before the black paint, and the T strips I intend on going over those with Flex Seal to give it a rubbery feel. As time went on, I realized I made a horrible, terrible mistake that seemed so obvious. The black paint I used was glossy, and it stuck to every surface I sat it on, as well as catch all the dirt and dust from outside where I was working on it. Something had to be done. And by the power of acetone, I was going to try to remove as much of the gloss paint as I could and leave as much of the silver paint underneath it. I ended up calling this as “good enough” and I saw that because of how sticky the gloss paint was, it created all these unique textures that I actually really liked. So I decided to keep then and basically start painting all over again. I used a much nicer silver paint and tried to find the closest to brass color for the scope. Hopefully you can see the texturing on the blaster, reminded me of cast iron surfaces. As a tank nerd, this really pleased me.Painted the blaster with a flat black this time. I decided I wanted to try a trick I saw with other weapons where you put graphite on the surface to give it a sort of dark sheen to it, so I gave it a go. To be continued shorty. (I realized I haven’t taken pictures of the weathering yet) 1 Quote
Hesikaya[TK] Posted August 12, 2020 Report Posted August 12, 2020 Oh, I had to go back and re-do many things on my blaster. Don't let it get you down trooper! Quote
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