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Posted
13 hours ago, Denseven said:

Thanks a lot @Firedog and @CoolHandLAZ

I just ordered two types of magnets, from a different site tho.

 

8x 20mm diameter / 5 MM thick.

8x 12mm diamete / 3 MM thick.

 

I saw at a video of RSprop masters to wrap them up in painters tape so my fingers wont get stuck in between and to get the magnets off easily from the PVC.

Thanks a lot guys! cannot wait to get my costume finalized, to start trooping!

 

Happy to help! Good luck with the build!

 

12 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Can never have enough magnets, clamps and tape ;) 

upG2FJs.jpg&key=6132a21d8b893c15ce0b7fa0

 

 

That's some serious firepower :jc_doublethumbup:

Posted (edited)

Been making some good progress so time to post an update :D

 

I finally got that sniper knee fiasco under control and got it to stick. It's amazing how pliable ABS is. One of the the things that solved my problems was that the inner leg side of the sniper knee was too long so I trimmed that a bit and that made it work. A bunch of glue, tape, and clamps later and bam:

 

wmpERZv.jpg

 

 

While that was drying, I skipped around to the abs and kidney section for a bit. I drilled holes for the Anovos supplied split rivets and made sure they fit nicely.

 

H8aX7mn.jpg

WPVPFie.jpg

 

Next up on that front will be painting the rivets white. And next up for the shins/calves will be installing the hook system to hold them together. :salute:

Edited by CoolHandLAZ
  • Like 2
Posted
Been making some good progress so time to post an update 
 
I finally got that sniper knee fiasco under control and got it to stick. It's amazing how pliable ABS is. One of the the things that solved my problems was that the inner leg side of the sniper knee was too long so I trimmed that a bit and that made it work. A bunch of glue, tape, and clamps later and bam:
 
wmpERZv.jpg&key=9a6d72f311945a4398514aeeea87489a0cd9b348b16af538b2490b686bf4867f
 
 
While that was drying, I skipped around to the abs and kidney section for a bit. I drilled holes for the Anovos supplied split rivets and made sure they fit nicely.
 
H8aX7mn.jpg&key=d6c6d8ba154d9b240612ed069274f01aa032295c96f7eba64a55678fd2946b97
WPVPFie.jpg&key=c4357711a1682d4fe24ebf060f15f325e1340b4f1adc703eab32036ac0ec5b91
 
Next up on that front will be painting the rivets white. And next up for the shins/calves will be outer cover strips + installing the hook system to hold them together. :salute:

Looks really good man! Will follow the progress!


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  • Like 1
Posted

Coming along great

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Coming along great

:salute: Thanks!

 

 

So my other question is concerning the cod area. Should this edge be removed? I didn't see this on the return edge thread. Thanks thanks.

 

XEfwPb9.jpg

 

LHHLI1W.jpg

Posted
2 hours ago, CoolHandLAZ said:

:salute: Thanks!

 

 

So my other question is concerning the cod area. Should this edge be removed? I didn't see this on the return edge thread. Thanks thanks

 

Certainly does 

 

gallery_12157_16_50082.jpg

gallery_12157_16_20542.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, CoolHandLAZ said:

:salute: Thanks!

 

 

So my other question is concerning the cod area. Should this edge be removed? I didn't see this on the return edge thread. Thanks thanks.

 

XEfwPb9.jpg

 

LHHLI1W.jpg

I would get rid of that plus most, if not all of the return edge following the contour of the cod piece. That stuff won’t feel good after a lot of walking around.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

A little late posting this update, but I did get that sniper knee plate glued on ;)

 

Ud3Owzl.jpg

 

Y6tA6Wr.jpg

 

NqrBAHt.jpg

 

 

Then, glued the hooks onto the back of each shin, drilled holes so that the hooks could connect, and did the final fittings (all per Ukswrath's thread).

 

BUv14zO.jpg

 

A9U2kD0.jpg

 

G0v46or.jpg

 

4wHj28u.jpg

 

Moving right along!

Edited by CoolHandLAZ
  • Like 1
Posted

Long post coming ;)

 

I felt inspired to work on my helmet so I shifted to that for a little bit. I'm thrilled with how it's come out so far! :smiley-sw013:

 

Anovos had the hard hat liner which I didn't like too much so I took that out. Actually I gutted the whole helmet. I was going to paint the interior black but felt nervous about taking the helmet apart and putting it back together. So I left it as is. I then moved onto some of the centurion mods since I felt that would be easier to do at the beginning. I first replaced the bottom ear screws with screws from @justjoseph63 and painted them white.

 

7pjmNua.jpg

 

After that I moved onto the frown. Researching on the forums, I found a few different ways to clean up the frown. Since rubbing alcohol was at a premium because of the pandemic, I couldn't go exactly that route but I did find alcohol prep pads. These worked wonderfully because I didn't have to worry about excess rubbing alcohol getting everywhere and I was able to really dig in there and clean those teeth up. I still have to do the tops correct? (I realized this after the fact) but I think I got the bottoms to where they need to be.

 

E7ld4dK.jpg

 

sKdN71o.jpg

 

 

This one was taken after I put the lenses in.

 

57nD5dB.jpg

 

 

After that was done, I went ahead and extended the frown on both sides using enamel paint. I still need to do a bit of cleanup on that but I'll do that when I get around to cleaning the whole helmet.

 

ntCXEOw.jpg

 

WyfHPkT.jpg

 

 

I replaced the Anovos supplied lens with one from Trooperbay. I decided to cut out the eyes to give me more space in the helmet. I'm glad I did because once I filled up the helmet, it got crowded. I traced along the holes from the outside with paper and used that as a pattern to cut out the lenses. I left the protective film on to avoid scratches.

 

8RXqFDt.jpg

 

ML6BYoZ.jpg

 

 

Using sugru I acquired from @justjoseph63 and following his tutorial, I formed the attaching points around the eye holes.

 

fHLiVuy.jpg

 

I had to trim down my lenses a bit because I aired on the side of safety from the start and made them big. Once I got the correct size, I pressed the lenses onto the sugru, and after letting them bond for a day, they were very securely attached. They are not coming off. :duim:

 

t5DqqIX.jpg

 

 

Had to do a bit of clean up on the outside of the lenses from the sugru seeping through but it was fairly easy to remove. I also removed the mesh frown cause it was falling off and I needed to put more glue on it. I saw in another tutorial on here, someone used craft foam to outline the frown. I liked how it looked clean and how it prevented anything from catching on the mesh. I just measured the foam around the mesh and cut it out. Then I used E600 to attach both to the helmet. I used magnets to keep everything down while drying.

 

vC4lLSL.jpg

 

hlUE6r0.jpg

DnW9cis.jpg

 

 

For padding, I bought some military tactical pads on amazon. It took me a little bit to get the sizing right. I used painters tape to move things around before I got it exactly how I wanted it. Then, with industrial strength velcro, I attached everything. 

 

(I took this picture before doing the frown).

2hVYCBx.jpg

 

After the pads were in and secure, I decided to move on to the fans. I bought @ukswrath's fan kit and cooling bracket and am very happy with those. They work wonderfully!

 

emxgAEk.jpg

 

pADtXYU.jpg

 

I ended up going with an external battery pack for convenience. I got an anker one on amazon.

 

dYt48lE.jpg

 

The battery pack got velcro'd to the inside right of my helmet. I then installed the fans and the bracket. The fans attached to the bracket and I ran the cables underneath. I was able to configure them so that they would be able to plug into the battery pack. This was a little tough because the helmet is asymmetrical but I got it to work.

 

LLVrRnM.jpg

 

0YP50wF.jpg

 

JDVPEAV.jpg

 

 

For the speaker system, I went with @ukswrath's internal speaker system/Hovi tips. Man was this a great choice. Everything is self contained. I love it! 

 

vyYOtX3.jpg

 

I started off by removing the Anovos Hovi tips. This was very easy since they were just screwed in. I had to drill out the holes a bit in order to fit the cabling through.

 

O8IaYzV.jpg

 

I ran the cables through the holes and screwed the new Hovi tips in. This was also very easy.

 

wEK3VDE.jpg

 

I velcro'd the amplifier onto the left side of the helmet, exactly opposite of the battery for the fans. I then ran the cabling under the cooling bracket so that it could plug into the amp.

 

qInlI1b.jpg

 

 

DhaXQjt.jpg

 

 

The last thing I did was plug in the mic and position it so that it was right by my mouth when I put the helmet on. I taped it down so it wouldn't move. And voila!

 

duBCNU4.jpg

 

snIcjIF.jpg

 

It fits great and sounds awesome! It also feels balanced because I have the electronics evened out on both sides. I don't have an Icomm but I may in the future. We'll see. But yeah that's where I'm at! Just a few cleaning things I still need to do. Let me know if there are any suggestions to improve.

 

Thanks! :salute:

 

VKqhcTe.jpg

Posted

Nice work on the updates, you could take a little more paint off the top of the teeth if you wanted, here are some references

gallery_12157_36_77206.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, CoolHandLAZ said:

It fits great and sounds awesome! It also feels balanced because I have the electronics evened out on both sides. I don't have an Icomm but I may in the future. We'll see. But yeah that's where I'm at! Just a few cleaning things I still need to do. Let me know if there are any suggestions to improve.

 

Hi Luke, what we are suggesting is something like this. note: mine is an Anovos helmet too and I did those changes and it looks great now.

 

 

PtnG4uQ.jpg       

 

 

Vocoder reference images  

 

 Mz3LuTW.jpg?2    yYCzq1u.jpg?1

 

cheers  :salute:

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work on the updates, you could take a little more paint off the top of the teeth if you wanted, here are some references

gallery_12157_36_77206.jpg

Copy that will do! That is a great reference.

 

3 hours ago, ukswrath said:

Fantastic job on your helmet overhaul Luke :jc_doublethumbup:

Thanks! I'm very happy with it. I'm glad I went with your fans and hovi tip mics. They are awesome. Thanks again!

 

2 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

Hi Luke, what we are suggesting is something like this. note: mine is an Anovos helmet too and I did those changes and it looks great now.

 

 

PtnG4uQ.jpg       

 

 

Vocoder reference images  

 

 Mz3LuTW.jpg?2    yYCzq1u.jpg?1

 

cheers  :salute:

 

 

 

Okay great I'll definitely clean all that up! Good to know! :salute:

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted

Hi all!

 

It's been a minute but I'm back to working on my armor! So I've forged ahead and started with the strapping. I decided to go with the snaps method.

 

I used line 24 snaps and nylon webbing to create the snapping system. It was a bit of a learning curve for setting the snaps but I ended up getting it working.

 

iwFJEFU.jpg

10EkxPM.jpg

 

I did some sizing to make sure everything lined up correctly and then glued the snaps in.

 

zv07EuF.jpg

 

pGNatPb.jpg

 

The strapping on the back is still gluing. I'll post a picture of it completed when it's dry.

 

GcyCWXh.jpg

 

So then I started working on the thighs. Once those were glued together, I started measuring out the thigh ammo belt for the right thigh. I got it lined up fine but I had a question about fastening the rivets to the thigh piece. How does one hammer a rivet in to a completed thigh piece? I thought maybe putting a piece of wood inside the thigh piece to give it something to hit into. Thoughts? 

 

Thanks!!

 

ummt7kC.jpg

 

t9WX6FB.jpg

E5fJTnw.jpg

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I use a piece of wood on the inside of the rivets

Posted
2 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I use a piece of wood on the inside of the rivets

 

That's what I was thinking too. Thanks!!

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

So I'm back, and while I haven't posted as much as I'd like, I've still been chugging along. And I am happy to say that I have submitted my build for basic approval! I still have a few mods I would like to make for EIB and Centurion (like replacing the belt with my Kittle belt) but I am so thrilled with how it came out! Thanks so much to everyone who has helped out, especially @ukswrath for creating the ultimate build Bible for Anovos TK armor. I couldn't have done it without the help and support of folks in this detachment. I look forward to joining your ranks hopefully soon,  and down the line in EIB and Centurion!

 

Until then...

 

2yEaUGJ.jpgGUXiuEe.jpg

 

OTb3Dk8.jpgO01KyMI.jpg

 

IrrDGmN.jpg JbXvqFg.jpg

 

JeX0Vd6.jpgPb5Z2nb.jpg

 

Edited by CoolHandLAZ
  • Like 2
Posted

I am very impressed with the quality of your armor.:th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

I am happy to hear that you are going to request  EIB and Centurion as soon as you get basic approval .:duim:

Congratulations Luke!!! . 

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice work, good luck with approval.

 

For EIB there are a few things:

I would bring your thighs up a bit, also noticed your backplate is sitting a little low so may want to bring that up too.

Drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt section.

You may want to bring your arms up a little, lift the biceps and forearms to give you a little room at your wrists, they are currently hitting your handplates

Side ab/kidney gap will need to be reduced also 

Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide

 

And perhaps try to remove the wrinkles on your belt

  • Canvas belt must be firm / sturdy in appearance. No creasing or sagging 

 

Once again good luck

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/6/2021 at 3:04 AM, Chemi said:

I am very impressed with the quality of your armor.:th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

I am happy to hear that you are going to request  EIB and Centurion as soon as you get basic approval .:duim:

Congratulations Luke!!! . 

 

Many thanks! As soon as I get basic approval and tweak the armor, I'm definitely going for level 2 and 3!

 

10 hours ago, ukswrath said:

Armor came out fantastic Luke

 

Thank you! Your armor guide was my number one resource. Thanks for putting that together!

 

5 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work, good luck with approval.

 

For EIB there are a few things:

I would bring your thighs up a bit, also noticed your backplate is sitting a little low so may want to bring that up too.

Drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt section.

You may want to bring your arms up a little, lift the biceps and forearms to give you a little room at your wrists, they are currently hitting your handplates

Side ab/kidney gap will need to be reduced also 

Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide

 

And perhaps try to remove the wrinkles on your belt

  • Canvas belt must be firm / sturdy in appearance. No creasing or sagging 

 

Once again good luck

 

You bet! Thanks for the feedback! Will get that stuff together for level 2 and 3.

  • Like 2
Posted

Looking great Luke, good luck with your application.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi again! 

 

So it was requested that I fix a few things before getting basic approval. Most of them were minor and taken care of, but the one I've been struggling with the most is how to raise my back piece.

 

grS2D7b.jpg

 

I'm 5'11 with a long torso. I'm worried if I bring the back up then there will be spaces between the back piece and the kidney. The strapping is already made of nylon so there isn't much give. I can't really raise the posterior any more. I have already given the back piece a hot water bath to straighten out the shoulder strap parts.  Any suggestions on how I could do this? Thanks!

 

JbXvqFg.jpg

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