DarthBiscuit's R1TK Build (Jimmiroquai kit)

[Darth147[TK]]

What did you use to dry it with 

I use a microfiber cloth 

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

12 minutes ago, Darth147 said:

What did you use to dry it with 

I use a microfiber cloth 

I use a skivvy shirt (olive drab Marine Corps t-shirt). I think it just picked up some lint and stuff from the dryer. 

 

So sanding didn't help, some of it is too deep. I'm going to spray white on a few spots tomorrow, then start over with clear. Extra work, but it was just too noticeable. Oh well.

[11b30b4[TK]]

You have been added to the roster brother.

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

2 hours ago, 11b30b4 said:

You have been added to the roster brother.

Thanks man! That's all I wanted ;-) Any lessons learned or words of wisdom? I'm re-reviewing your build still...

Edited June 13, 2020 by DarthBiscuit

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

So I sprayed a light coat of white. I think I lucked out since some sprays seemed pretty heavy, but I didn't notice any runs or cracks. I was worried about if the paint sticks to the clear coat, even after sanding most to 1,000. Fingers crossed! I gave it a little time and sprayed clear on top, cuz the can said it'd be fine within an hour.

I checked on it later and saw a LOT of debris. I think it was blown in when I was moving stuff around the garage. I was able to brush most off, so hopefully I can get the rest off but I want to wait until it's really dry. So I'll sand a little to 1,000 tomorrow and add the last coat of clear!

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

Today got messed up too! After spraying a coat of clear I noticed a big piece of dander above the upper lip. I should've waited until the clear was dry, but I tried to grab it and smudged the clear a lot. I stepped back and gave it some time to dry, then I tried to spray white over the spot but it went on too thick and ran. Again, I should've waited until that dried, but I tried to wipe it off. Turned out HORRIBLE. I stepped back again to let it dry and came back to wet sand 800 and 1,000 until it was fixed. Then I tried spraying white again and ended up with a run on the tube! Finally learning my lesson, I walked away. Tomorrow I'll sand the run and then try again with a few coats of clear. Fingers crossed I can move on after that!

[11b30b4[TK]]

Only suggestion at this time is to take your time. Don't rush anything especially the paint. several thin coats over time will save you all the headaches you had with the bucket. I try to spray one light coat everywhere, wait 10 minutes then another light coat, wait 10 minutes then a final coat to ensure everything is covered. I do this with primer, paint and clear coat.

[11b30b4[TK]]

Also, I am not a fan of the craft paints. Whatever you use make sure all the primer, paint and clear are of the same type (Acrylic, Lacquer, enamel) and same brand. Common issues with clear coat are orange peel which is often caused by mixing brands or spraying too thick. If yo are using spray paint I would suggest just using gloss white and skipping the clear coat. As for the grey, blue, and black parts, either airbrush then clear coat or use same type paint as the white (Acrylic, Lacquer, enamel) in model paints. I am a big fan of Tamiya brand. Overall, the color stuff is best if airbrushed and yo can pick up an airbrush kit for fairly cheap these days. I use a harbor freight airbrush compressor ($89.00) and a Testor Aztek A4809 metal airbrush kit (not sure what they cost now but I got mine for about 100.00) comes with numerous heads for different patterns and thickness of paints.

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I just can't catch a break...

I sanded the bucket to 1,000 in hopes that it would help the clear coat stick best. I washed it off, wiped it down, and let it air dry for a few hours.

I looked it over and everything seemed good and still clean, so I sprayed a coat of clear. Then I noticed cracks on the chin and dome!





I don't know what happened, but maybe there's just too many layers right there, or I didn't sand down enough. I learned from previous mistakes and STOPPED.

I'll give it some time and then try to sand those spots down to 800. Hopefully the white will be unaffected and I can try clear again. Otherwise, it's white, wait for 3 days, and then clear.

I think I've almost got my supplies list together for the rest of the armor! I might order it soon and work on attaching some snaps to webbing squares, so they're ready to be glued onto armor pieces.

Edited June 17, 2020 by DarthBiscuit

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I've had issues with some paints before especially Rustoleum, sometimes it can be thickness of paint, different paint, or even paint not fully dried. I moved back to acrylic automotive paints and have not had any issues to date.

 

Probably not an easy fix but I would suggest removing all the paint and starting again, a pain to be sure but at least you can start with a fresh base.

 

 

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I've had issues with some paints before especially Rustoleum, sometimes it can be thickness of paint, different paint, or even paint not fully dried. I moved back to acrylic automotive paints and have not had any issues to date.
 
Probably not an easy fix but I would suggest removing all the paint and starting again, a pain to be sure but at least you can start with a fresh base.
 
 

I've thought about it...but I haven't quite given up yet. If this problem were everywhere, then I'd relent. I think I just need to be more patient, and maybe sand to 400 instead so the paint may stick better.

[Darth147[TK]]

its best to paint the bucket and spray the clear coat 30 mins after your last coat of paint 

if you wait more than 24hrs it has a weird chemical effect 

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

Today went alright. I think it's safe to say I'm moving on!

 

I taped off below the bucket, then sanded to 400 and washed to dome.

 

 

30 minutes later I peeled the tape off and found crisp lines...nothing a little 1,000 couldn't blend. I also took 1,000 to a few pieces of debris that stuck to the paint. 

 

Then, I sprayed clear! I waited 3 minutes between sprays, alternating to opposite sides. It seemed to go on problem-free, except for a small run in the back underside (hardly noticeable).

 

I think the white parts are finally acceptable. Not the perfection I was striving for, but it looks good! Tomorrow I'll pull tape off the brow and neck seal to spray black PlastiDip. Hopefully no issues with that, but the vocoder went smoothly so I'm optimistic. After a couple coats of that, I'll check the gray areas and see if the primer's color works. Otherwise, that'll be next!

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I pulled off the tape from the brow and neck seal. There were so many coats that some strips were hard to come off, it even chipped the white in a few places. I tried cutting along the tape so it would come away from the paint easier, but ended up cutting a little into white that I shouldn't have... I'll probably have to touch up some spots later... The white bled into the tape in other spots, which is fine since those are non-white areas anyways.

 

I think the gray primer is going to be too dark, so I'll have to paint them. I'll post pics when I take all the tape off and see how it looks. The gray I have is gloss, so I'd have to sand the sheen off, hopefully without screwing it up.

 

Taped off the brow and neck seal and wrapped the rest in plastic to prep for PlastiDip.

 

 

 

For the most part, it went well. I waited over 30 minutes between coats, of which I did 4. The last one I went a little heavy in the front, so I'll have to see if it's going to look right or if it's chunky.

 

 

 

Will the tape peal off well, or will the PlastiDip all come up together? I'm wondering if I need to cut the seam so it stays adhered to the helmet.

 

 

I also started looking into gloves at EndorFinders, but I'll wait until their next sale (probably July 4th), and boots at ImperialBoots, but their one week open per month isn't until July 3rd.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Crossing fingers for you

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

Thanks @gmrhodes13.

 

PlastiDip did NOT work for me. It came up while peeling the tape, I even tried using an X-acto knife to cut the seams, but it was difficult and time-consuming to cut through. My buddy recommended peeling the tape off immediately after spraying, which could have helped, but would require retaping several times.

 

 

I decided to just pull all the tape off. It stayed on most of the areas I sprayed, but the edges were disgusting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I gave in and just peeled it all off, which was really easy and helps me decide that PlastiDip wasn't the right choice.

 

 

This setback helped me decide a few things:

 

- I ordered a Rustoleum satin black for the brow and neck trim

- I ordered a Rustoleum satin granite, since the primer color is definitely not right, and I realized the smoke gray I already bought is gloss.

- I'm going the sand the whole thing down to 220 and start again with white. The clear just isn't glossy enough.

- I'm going to pull off all the tape and spray the whole thing to cut down on missed spots due to taping.

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

And here it is without the tape.

 

 

I'm glad I pulled it out, since I taped off too much from the rear traps. I'm pretty sure the black outline should be inside, and not around the outside. 

 

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

So I modified my workspace, sanded to 220, added some putty to pinholes that I planned on ignoring when I thought I was done painting, sanded again, and washed it off.

 

Taking tape off from the openings left a lot of residual paint sticking out. I think, instead of taping inside the openings next time, I might just stick a bunch of tape around inside the bucket, like a backdrop. We'll see if it helps.

 

Changing gears, I cut a strip of blue fabric from my wife's old sweater. I cut a hole out of velcro and stuck the fabric onto the hard side. This process worked out pretty much how I had hoped! I planned on adhering the soft velcro around the vents, then the fabric backing would be removable!

 

 

I held it up to the inside to test it out, but it's not visible enough (top). The fabric is 2 layers of velcro away from the openings, which is just too far. I tried flipping it over so the fabric is against the helmet (bottom). You can't tell from the pic, but it's much better.

 

 

I'll probably just hot glue the fabric in when I'm done painting. It won't be easily removable, but it should look pretty good. Oh well.

 

Spraying white tomorrow! Again.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

What a pain in the backside, paints are a funny thing and I've not had a lot of luck with Rustoleum or enamel based paints, they do seem a lot thicker than auto acrylic paints and being thicker are a bit hard to separate especially on tape.

 

But you are hanging in there and I commend you for not giving up.

 

Good luck moving forward.

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I really appreciate the support, but I don't have a choice lol. I already put the down payment on Jim's armor... And if I don't finish this, then my wife can say "I told you not to buy it"! Can't let that happen haha!

[Chemi[Staff]]

45 minutes ago, DarthBiscuit said:

And if I don't finish this, then my wife can say "I told you not to buy it"! Can't let that happen haha!

I believe what you say...You have to finish it!

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I taped up the inside to decrease the amount of clean-up later.

 

 

Sprayed a couple coats of white with a few minutes between each side. It's nice to have a white helmet again!

 

 

Some cracks started developing immediately. It's insane! I sanded the whole thing to 220 and know for a fact that I got these spots well. I had scrubbed it down too so oils shouldn't have been a problem. I guess it's just a sacrifice of using Rustoleum.

 

 

 

I guess tomorrow I'll sand these spots to 800, then wait another day as recommended and spray another coat. I had to order more white since this can is feeling light and I def want to finish the helmet ASAP. 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I have encountered this before with some enamel sprays I've used, can be the build up of paint, the paint not fully dry but also scratches in the paint which allows the thinners in the next coat to seep into and soften the paint so the sides crack and curl. I would probably suggest leaving for a few days to make sure it is fully dry before continuing.

 

I know from my panel beating days there was a spray that you could apply which would block/seal a layer of paint to help stop anything underneath coming through, may be an option if you don't want to remove all the paint. 

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

8 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I would probably suggest leaving for a few days to make sure it is fully dry before continuing.

Thanks! That's probably what I'll do. I had wiped it down, but perhaps it wasn't completely dry when I started spraying.