DarthBiscuit's R1TK Build (Jimmiroquai kit)

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

So I got A LOT done today, not many pics, since most of it was touching up things you wouldn't notice without being inches away from it...

 

I first tried rubbing compound to blend in the white parts that were taped with the untaped white parts that I sprayed a few extra coats on. That didn't really help. So I gently sanded with 1,000 grit and then buffed it again. That helped a little, enough that I think it's good enough to move on. 

 

Then I used my Sharpie extra fine point oil-based paint markers to touch up the outlines. The markers performed HORRIBLY. Paint just wasn't coming out of the 1st marker, so I opened a 2nd. This worked for most of the outlines, except the rear trap that screwed up before. I saw videos that recommended soaking the tips in isopropyl alcohol to clean them out, but I don't have any readily available. So I opened a 3rd marker... This one was doing well, but just couldn't get into the rear trap's crevice. So I taped off around the crevice, and used a brush to apply paint from the 1st marker that I poured onto a plate. It worked lol!

 

Moving on...

 

I CAREFULLY drilled holes for ukswrath's hovi tips, starting with a small bit and working bigger to ensure I stayed perpendicular. That worked! I popped them in and am so happy! Didn't get a pic before I took them out though...

 

Then, I put some E6000 across the top and the middle prongs of Jim's vocoder and stuck it on. The bottom prongs aren't touching at all. Does anyone see any issues with this application, or Does it look fine and will be acceptable? I put 2 magnets on top and 2 underneath to hold it still while curing.

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Well that's a little annoying, can you drop it down a little, I know with a lot of resin's they can have heat applied and they will bend, it could be an option, I do this with resin T track and it works well. There is a pretty big gap there so if you leave it as is it really depends on if your GML will notice it. 

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

Well that's a little annoying, can you drop it down a little, I know with a lot of resin's they can have heat applied and they will bend, it could be an option, I do this with resin T track and it works well. There is a pretty big gap there so if you leave it as is it really depends on if your GML will notice it. 

Angling it so the middle and bottom prongs touch left a big gap at the top instead. I'm pretty sure it's just a chunk of fiberglass, since that's what Jim uses. Not sure if I can bend that...

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I don't think it's TOO noticeable from the front. I'll get a pic tmrw when I take the magnets off.

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I didn't mess with the helmet today, since I wanted to give the E6000 sufficient time to cure. I'm thinking about using some fiberglass pieces that I'll trim off (glue and paint) to support the vocoder, mostly because I don't want to set my bucket down and pop it off.

 

I looked over Jim's pieces again and only found issues with one thigh (a few small cracks).

 

 

I bent open the cracks and filled them with E6000. I wiped off the excess and taped the thigh to hold the cracks closed while it cures. This should work to repair the cracks, right?

 

 

After this, I applied fiberglass resin to the interior of some pieces. I remember that warmth and sun helps to cure, so I moved everything into the backyard.

 

 

And then the clouds rolled and it started drizzling... So I brought it all back to the garage. I decided to resin the rest tomorrow, since I'm mostly out of space.

 

Since I had a break, I decided to pull out the Darth Nihilus mask pieces I got my buddy to print me in PLA.

 

 

I don't know if I'll one day figure out the costume, but I just really like his mask. At that point I'll join the Flagship Eclipse. But for now I'm just gonna put these pics here... Sanded and glued the pieces together. Super glue is supposed to be great for PLA...

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I would add something a little stronger for the cracks, with a couple of cracks I found on my Sithtrooper I used fiberglass matting and resin behind to give it a little more strength. E6000 is great for flexing BUT isn't that strong in cracks, even adding some ABS strips behind will help.

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I would add something a little stronger for the cracks, with a couple of cracks I found on my Sithtrooper I used fiberglass matting and resin behind to give it a little more strength. E6000 is great for flexing BUT isn't that strong in cracks, even adding some ABS strips behind will help.

I can add fiberglass cloth behind the cracks when I go to brush on resin! Anything directly on top of the cracks? I'll apply bondo putty to pinholes, but I don't think it'll flex when I have to use that much.

[ticopowell[TK]]

I agree, e6000 isn't the answer for fiberglass cracks like that. Clean it out, sand a little, and then add some resin and fiber matt to the back. Once it's cured then sand down both sides and you'll be golden.

[ticopowell[TK]]

I can add fiberglass cloth behind the cracks when I go to brush on resin! Anything directly on top of the cracks? I'll apply bondo putty to pinholes, but I don't think it'll flex when I have to use that much.

Do resin in and through the crack, on both sides if you want to seal it nicely. Let me search, I had to fix a crack in my Vader shoulder bell and that's how I did it. I'll post pictures if I can find them. They are in my Vader thread somewhere on the sld forum.

[FN1313[TK]]

I can add fiberglass cloth behind the cracks when I go to brush on resin! Anything directly on top of the cracks? I'll apply bondo putty to pinholes, but I don't think it'll flex when I have to use that much.

Id recommend some bondo, not the spot glazing putty, but the filler stuff with fiberglass for the exterior side. It’s more durable then resin (the resin just cracked again on my Jim armor rather than being durable)

I’d also recommend drilling a hole at the end of the crack to stop the spread then opening it a little with a Dremel so your bondo can actually get in and fill it.


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[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

Let me start with a quick mention that my boots and gloves came in!

 

Got the boots from EndorFinders with a July 4th discount! They seem like great quality and the interior is so soft and comfortable! Bonus that there's already hard velcro sewn onto the back!

 

 

I got my boots from ImperialBoots. They also seem like great, lasting quality and materials. They're a little snug in the heel, but I'm thinking about wearing them while I work to break them in before trooping.

 

 

And now for the meat and potatoes!

 

I applied fiberglass resin to the interior of the rest of the parts that'll need it. I lightly applied some to the thigh crack along with a strip of fiberglass cloth on the inside. I ran out of hardener after my 2nd batch, but it seemed like enough to finish. Until...the resin melted thru the plastic cup I was using and leaked onto the towels I laid out. Then I did NOT have enough to cover the thighs, but I spread it super thin and I think it's good enough. 

 

 

Now to the helmet, while that dries!

 

I tested the vocoder and it held up the weight of the helmet, so hopefully no issues with the E6000 adhesion. Then I installed ukswrath's hovi tips.

 

I stuck 3 small pieces of velcro on the lens and installed it. The distance from the lens to the helmet was kind of far so I doubled and bunched up the velcro a little to cover the gap.

 

 

Then I hot glued the black and blue fabrics and the wire screen. I figured this makes them semi-removable, if needed.

 

 

Then I stuck in the pads and tried it on!

 

 

The good: the blue fabric looks great!

 

The bad: I need to rearrange the pads, for a few reasons. My eyes are pressed a little close to the lens. If I look down or lean forward, the helmet tilts back. It also shakes a little when I move my head.

 

I hooked up the iComm and amp system, and I think it's working alright, if the mic is right up on my lips. I want to mount the mic in the helmet, so I'll have to figure out placement so it still works. I'm going to velcro the boxes in too, and possibly move them to my chest later (depending how I can hide the cords).

 

So ecstatic right now!! The kids love it, and I can't see my wife rolling her eyes when I wear it haha!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice progress, can't go wrong with IB boots

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

Nothing better after a morning run than a hot cup of coffee on the bridge of a Star Destroyer! Do you guys think I'm ready for GML approval lol!

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

6 hours ago, DarthBiscuit said:

 Do you guys think I'm ready for GML approval lol!

Nice try but not quite, love the photo  

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I rearranged the pads, and moved the lens up. It all fits a bit better now.

 

After a LOT of trial and error, I figured out a method for mounting the iComm and amp. There's no flat surface for good velcro grip, so I  wrapped them in hard velcro and put a strip along the bottom, then made a soft velcro strap to hold them onto the helmet.

 

I hooked everything up, and then used some black electrical tape to hold the wires close to the helmet. It took some bending and arranging with the mic, but I got it into a good spot!

 

 

Performed a sound check! I don't know if this video works or has sound, but assume that it's good lol!

 

 

This kids loved it! My son kept saying it's "crackly" haha, I explained that's how Stormtroopers sound!

 

I didn't get anything done on my armor, but here's a pic of what's ahead.

 

 

The barrel ends overlap about 2 inches, so I think I need to cut off 4-6 to leave a gap. Then I'll snap 2 strips of elastic across to hold it tight. For vertical placement, I was thinking the bottom of the barrel should be high enough that I can sit and it rests on my legs, then I'll cut down the top to where the chest still overlaps. Is that a good height placement? I figured that I shouldn't cut from the bottom, right?

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I think this pic shows just how oversized the barrel is on me. Most barrels I saw in other forums had a gap. I figured horizontally crossing the gap with some elastic will allow flex while still keeping it snug, but I'll have to cut off like 6 inches (the overlap plus some extra). Does that seem reasonable? I'm really hesitant to makes cuts, and THAT'S a lot to take off.

 

 

Maybe I'm putting the barrel too high..? Holding it and the belt at this height allows me to bring my legs all the way up, but then barely any of the panels are visible... I think the chest is at a good height so that it isn't choking me, but maybe I need to trim Jim's shoulder straps to bring it up a little.

 

 

Jim's straps are really firm and barely flex, so they kind of push the back too far from me. Trimming them will probably make it worse! Has anyone else used Jim's included straps? Is there a way to increase flexibility?

 

 

Also, from the side, it looks like the barrel is WAY OVER the tops of where the side panels will be. That's a lot to trim down, isn't it?

 

I know 11b30b4 remade the belt so that the notches fit, but I'm not equipped for that. Did anyone else do anything to adjust the notches? I can just trim some a little so they lock in better, but then they won't fill the gaps (and already don't fill some spots).

 

 

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

After test fitting and posting my questions, I sanded the interiors and exteriors of the barrel and front half of the belt. I used a Dremel to sand down the notches that are really tight or rounded, so they fit a little better and look straighter. I'm still unsure about how to extend the notches so they fill the gaps more...

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You will find sometimes that armor can only be sized so small before it looks a little odd, you may very well have to add some foam inside on some pieces, I have on my my armor due to being very skinny.

 

Make sure you compare to reference material just to make sure you aren't trimming down too much, easy to trim off but hard to put back on  

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

I sanded the back of the belt, the hand plates, and the chest, back, and shoulder straps.

 

 

I had some resin that extended onto the edges, so I used a Dremel to sand that down. It was difficult getting in the back box, but I got it pretty well.

 

My shoulder straps don't line up right, which might affect the way the torso hangs. So I taped them together with a bit of tension to bend them evenly and a little more. 

 

I asked Jim about the oval indentation on the back of the left shoulder. He said to cut on costs he uses the same mold as his Inferno Squad back. It's pretty thin, but I think using a Bondo spot putty would Crack when it flexes. I'm thinking about trimming some fiberglass that I'll cut off and E6000 it in there, then lining with putty. Just thinking out loud...

 

I think I'll use the hand plates as my test pieces for my modified process. They're small and pretty simple, so I should be able to fix them if needed. The gloss I'm using is paint+primer, so I'll skip priming several times with alternating grays. After applying some putty and sanding, I'll spray the back satin white, then spray the front gloss white. Then put soft white velcro under and stick them on the gloves! It'll be super rewarding having accomplished something!

[ticopowell[TK]]

If I'm seeing what I think I am, I think you could fill the oval indent with resin and it should be fine. Sand down the sharp edges, fill it with resin, then sand it once it's cured. Over that you can do month or some other filler, sand it smooth, and it should not be noticeable.

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

If I'm seeing what I think I am, I think you could fill the oval indent with resin and it should be fine. Sand down the sharp edges, fill it with resin, then sand it once it's cured. Over that you can do month or some other filler, sand it smooth, and it should not be noticeable.

Yeah resin could work much more easily! Thanks!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

For any imperfections I like to use bondo (automotive filler) dries quite quickly and can be sanded in varies grades to get a nice smooth end result. For final scratches or pinholes I use blade putty (final glaze) finer and a wet consistency and takes some time to harden but great for fine imperfections. 

 

I found with my Sithtrooper armor from Jim that I could sand the whole armor with a block and 120 grit sandpaper and it got rid of a lot of imperfections, low and high spots, then applied two coats of spray putty. 

[DarthBiscuit[TK]]

My 2" elastic suspenders came in (adjustable 36"-50")! Adjusted to their shortest, I'll have to snap them on around here:

 

 

 

Something I didn't think about while I was researching, but luckily worked out: the back has 2 separate straps! Some options have a single strap in the rear, which would have been problematic when attaching to the separate barrel sides...

 

Not much done today, just sanding a few more pieces.

 

 

I planned on spraying satin white on interiors while pieces were separate from each other, then adhering, and finally spraying gloss white on exteriors. Spraying gloss last might create more hard-to-reach crevices... Would it be better to spray satin inside, gloss outside, and THEN attach pieces? I also considered that attaching after spray might be less effective (E6000 is sticking to gloss paint, not the actual fiberglass piece). Am I over thinking this, or does one way work better?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

You could also remove the stitching and shorten the elastic and resew  

 

Anywhere that would flex it would be better to paint before gluing as the paint could crack along the join. I had no issues spraying into crevasses, I normally do a light coat or two in any crevasses first before painting the rest of the pieces. 

[ticopowell[TK]]

E6000 will stick to gloss alright, sanding the surface helps but you should be alright. You can always test it on a scrap piece and see how much force it takes to remove it after letting it cure for 72 hours