Mr_Fahrenheit[501st] Posted April 12, 2020 Report Posted April 12, 2020 (edited) Mandatory Information Armor = AP Helmet= AP Blaster= 3D Printed Optional Height = 5' 11" Weight = 210 lbs Boots = Imperial Boots Canvas belt = AP Hand Plates = Silicone AP Neck Seal = Geeky Pink Holster = AP Armour Photos Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Right Full Left Right Side Detail Left SIde Detail Action Shot Abdomen Detail Cod and Butt Plate Attachment (edited, removed white paint on crotch rivet exterior) Interior Strapping Helmet Detail Photos Front (edited, removed paint overlapping upper gums on several teeth) Sides Back Hovi tip detail (edited, added white paint to rim of Hovi tips) Lens Colour (edited, took different photos with different lighting) Though it's not as vibrant as the ones from Trooperbay, I used this one from amazon. It's darker, but green. Ammo belt Holster Attachment (front and back) Neckseal Blaster left side Blaster right side Blaster back (ring) Thermal detonator (all sides) Boots Ammo Rivet Sniper Knee (all sides) Gloves Shoulder Straps Chest Attachment Shoulder Straps Floating in Back and Elastic Attachment (edited, added different angle to see white strapping under shoulder) Forearms (edited, added a few shots of the wrists. Wasn't sure exactly what was needed here so I took a few shots from different angles) Edited April 12, 2020 by Mr_Fahrenheit Added edits as requested for approval 1 Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted April 12, 2020 Report Posted April 12, 2020 (edited) Hi Mister, great to see your EIB application. I would like to suggest to add some more photos that I'm sure the D.O team will ask you to add. As per the Crl States for level 2 1- Close photo of the Chest to back connection to see the white fabric or elasctic. Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders. 2- Close Photo of the Both sides of thigh ammo pack external and internal to see the proper rivets. Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge. The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. No pop rivets allowed. Rivet should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter (exterior). Additional, I would suggest you to make the following changes according to the CRL level 2 EIB 1- Add some White paint to the hovi tips rim as the reference photo Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white. 2- Remove the white paint from the Cod rivet A split (bifurcated) or single cap rivet is present on the lower tab (cod area) of the abdomen armor. Rivet does not need to be functional. Rivet on must be brass or silver in color, approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter and is not painted. Any additional photo or requirements will be asked by the D.O. Good luck with your application Trooper !!! Edited April 12, 2020 by TKSpartan word correction Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted April 12, 2020 Report Posted April 12, 2020 Hi Mister! First, SUPER nice job on this build, sir... lots of fantastic attention to details! As Mario mentioned, there are a few items before we can get started on your review, including painting the white rim on the Hovi-tips (EASY fix) The paint will need to be removed from the rivet on the cod. Rivet on must be brass or silver in color, approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter and is not painted Can you take another rear-lit photo of the lenses using a different light source? The reason being is that yours look a lot more gray (like ESB or ROTJ) than green. Lenses are flat material, green in color Typical AP lenses We will also need you to spend 5 minutes with some (non-acetone) paint remover and a toothpick to remove the paint from a tops of a few of the teeth. As per the CRL for Basic approval: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area The rest are good to go! Lastly, please post up a photo that shows your wrist openings on your forearms. As soon as you get these done, please add the updated pics to your first post so that we can get started and get that EI badge under your name! Quote
Mr_Fahrenheit[501st] Posted April 12, 2020 Author Report Posted April 12, 2020 Thanks for the feedback! I made the changes and replaced some of the images where needed. Please have another look and let me know if it's missing anything else. You can CTRL+F "edited" and it should take you to where I've made some updates. Thanks again! 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 13, 2020 Report Posted April 13, 2020 You may want to reduce the paint on the ab buttons, also the large plate shouldn't have rounded corners Your sides are overlapping, perhaps loosen the belt a little or add some foam behind the ab/kidney to hold them outwards You have gaps in the bottom ridges of the thighs on the rear, you could add some scraps of abs behind Good luck with approval Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted April 13, 2020 Report Posted April 13, 2020 10 hours ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said: I made the changes and replaced some of the images where needed. Please have another look and let me know if it's missing anything else. You can CTRL+F "edited" and it should take you to where I've made some updates. Excellent work on those fixes, sir, and thanks for the photos! The lenses still have that gray appearance, but I took a look at your build thread and sure enough, the lens material is indeed green. (Must be the light there in the Great White North, lol). I will be with ya' shortly, so hang in there. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted April 14, 2020 Report Posted April 14, 2020 Hi Darian, and thank you for your EI submission! In the following review I will be going over items pertaining to your current submission, as well as those that will be required for Centurion level should you choose to apply. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required submission photos have been posted and I am very pleased to announce your armor displays all the necessary elements to qualify for ANH Stunt Expert Infantry. On behalf of Sha Sha and myself, Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. As I mentioned, fantastic job on this build, brother. Lots of great attention to detail and you nailed most of the areas we normally see issues with! We have a few items to go over, but in looking at the awesome work you did on the requested fixes they should be no problem, and some are just strapping adjustments. That being said, let's get to it! Your right bicep is sitting a bit high in comparison with the left. The spacing at the bicep/forearm connection is the same, but this results in the right wrist opening sitting farther from the hand guard area. We are suggesting that you lower the right bicep, which would fix both issues and give you a more symmetrical look. If you feel adventurous and have some time (as many of us do right now) we are suggesting that you reduce the size of your small ab-button plate a tad. I know AP makes the buttons a little wider than was seen onscreen, but this can be done and still maintain the look. Reference image I couldn't help but notice that your hand guards have a yellowish tint which doesn't match that beautiful white AP armor. You listed them as being made by AP, but are you sure they are silicone? In looking at another set of AP guards (Photo 3) they are normally bright white, so I'm not certain why they have that faded look. (It may be that Canadian lighting again, lol). If they are not silicone, you may want to consider a coat of white paint (the originals were painted) for a better appearance. Photo 3 Reference images Centurion Requirements In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here. Because Centurion photos show much more detail than those for Expert Infantry, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper Now we get to the finer details to get you to the next level. It's these minutiae that will set you apart so we can get that Centurion badge under your name! A super easy fix here... for this one you just need to grab your Dremel tool (or a file) and remove the rest of the return edge in the "hump" area of the wrists. Reference images You did an excellent job on removing the excess paint on the teeth, so now it's time to use that talent to the ab buttons. As per the CRL for level 3, "...the paint does not extend to the bottom of the actual raised button" . As seen in the reference image details, there is a small area around the bottom of each button that is not painted. We would also really like to see the edges a lot more rounded. Using a "fibert" style brush (note rounded tip) will make this a lot easier! Reference images Filbert brush This is one of the most common issues we see, but is quite simple to address. The outer edges of the drop boxes must align with the outer edge of the ABS belt. Some E-6000 on the inside strap will take care of this. Last up, the gaps in the lower ridges as seen below will need to be filled. Some ABS shims behind them would do the trick, but remember that the top of the ridge is curved so keep that in mind. Reference images If you have the time and patience, instead of just shimming it from the rear you could go one step further. I'm not gonna kid you, it would be tricky but I have every confidence that you could do it! This would be my suggestion: 1. Add and ABS shim behind the area(s) in the inside (yellow arrow). 2. Using some scrap ABS from your build, cut some filler pieces to size that will fit inside the gaps. Note that because of the angle at the top of the ridge there will need to be a slight bend (blue arrow) and maybe the bottom as well. 3. Attach the filler pieces on top of the shim with a dab of glue to hold them in place. 4. Whip up a small (less than a teaspoon should do) batch of ABS paste to fill the seams. (Hint: In order to keep sanding time to a minimum, do NOT overfill the seams). Let it dry and then sand until smooth and then polish. Done deal. And that's it, sir. Again, seeing how fast you jumped on those requests makes me think we will (hopefully) be seeing your Centurion submission really soon! Quote
giskard8[Staff] Posted April 14, 2020 Report Posted April 14, 2020 Congratulations trooper, Welcome to the ranks. Quote
husky68[TK] Posted April 14, 2020 Report Posted April 14, 2020 Congratulations Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted April 14, 2020 Report Posted April 14, 2020 Congratulations Trooper, Well done !! Don't Stop , you can make it to Centurion mate!! Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 14, 2020 Report Posted April 14, 2020 Congratulations and welcome to the EI ranks trooper Quote
Mr_Fahrenheit[501st] Posted April 16, 2020 Author Report Posted April 16, 2020 On 4/14/2020 at 4:01 AM, justjoseph63 said: I couldn't help but notice that your hand guards have a yellowish tint which doesn't match that beautiful white AP armor. You listed them as being made by AP, but are you sure they are silicone? In looking at another set of AP guards (Photo 3) they are normally bright white, so I'm not certain why they have that faded look. (It may be that Canadian lighting again, lol). If they are not silicone, you may want to consider a coat of white paint (the originals were painted) for a better appearance. Thank you for such great feedback, and I'm super thankful for the EI acceptance! As for the handguards, believe it or not, they used to be about 5x more yellow. I spent the whole day bleaching them and leaving them out in the sun. They came white, but I don't know what happened, over time they just turned extremely yellow. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue before? I got them in the AP kit and haven't seen anyone else with such yellow handguards. Anyways! On to fulfill level three! I'll make sure to adjust all of the things you listed. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted April 16, 2020 Report Posted April 16, 2020 3 hours ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said: Thank you for such great feedback, and I'm super thankful for the EI acceptance! As for the handguards, believe it or not, they used to be about 5x more yellow. I spent the whole day bleaching them and leaving them out in the sun. They came white, but I don't know what happened, over time they just turned extremely yellow. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue before? I got them in the AP kit and haven't seen anyone else with such yellow handguards. I believe they may contain latex, which tends to turn yellow with exposure to UV rays. The original ones were made of pure natural latex, which cures to a yellowish orange color and so they were painted white. In the first two pics you can see where some of the paint rubbed off. Not the biggest of deals on yours, just wanted you to look your best! "Anyways! On to fulfill level three! I'll make sure to adjust all of the things you listed". AWESOME to hear, and I look forward to seeing your Centurion submission!! Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 8, 2020 Report Posted May 8, 2020 Sorry for the late reply but congratulations on the EI Badge. Great job Quote
Mr_Fahrenheit[501st] Posted July 21, 2020 Author Report Posted July 21, 2020 (edited) On 4/14/2020 at 4:01 AM, justjoseph63 said: A super easy fix here... for this one you just need to grab your Dremel tool (or a file) and remove the rest of the return edge in the "hump" area of the wrists. Thanks for all the feedback. How is this for that return edge? Also, I cleaned up the buttons on the ab plate too, any thoughts: Thanks all! Edited July 21, 2020 by Mr_Fahrenheit 2 Quote
Mr_Fahrenheit[501st] Posted July 26, 2020 Author Report Posted July 26, 2020 On 7/21/2020 at 6:26 AM, justjoseph63 said: Much better! Thanks. I've submitted for Centurion! 1 Quote
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