Cricket's 3D Print FOTK (TLJ)- ABS, Kid-sized- FINISHED!

[Cricket[TK]]

Also, if you've purchased the FOTK files from CGTrader, I asked the designer to rebuild his holster so it could be made functional.  He has redesigned the holster so it should be functional now.  I haven't printed them, but they look pretty good.  It might be worth a look over there to download the updates!

[deputyd0ng]

22 hours ago, Cricket said:

Also, if you've purchased the FOTK files from CGTrader, I asked the designer to rebuild his holster so it could be made functional.  He has redesigned the holster so it should be functional now.  I haven't printed them, but they look pretty good.  It might be worth a look over there to download the updates!

I see that now,

 

I have already printed the right thigh, and unless something goes wrong, I dont want to re-print it lol.

 

With this new one, the thingiverse bracket would not be needed, correct?

 

They also made me a new ab plate, it does not have the flared curve outward going up, this prevented the ab plate from clearing my beer gut, and allowing the chest play to attach correctly.

[deputyd0ng]

Did you weld the chest plate to the back plate?

[Cricket[TK]]

1 hour ago, deputyd0ng said:

Did you weld the chest plate to the back plate?

Nope.  The chest plate has a slight overlap over the "vest" part of the back/yoke part.  I secured the chest plate with industrial velcro at the overlap in the chest area as well as at the side areas where the chest and back plates overlap.  It keeps things really secure, but I don't like having to readjust everything each time Cameron suits up.

In hindsight (and possibly for future builds), I will probably do this approach:  creating a strap across the front part of the back plate that allows for the chest to be secured with snaps.  The photo isn't mine, but I like the idea.  I think strong magnets would work well for this, too.  I probably wouldn't use an ABS strip as they did, but instead use a strap of nylon webbing for this.  

Edited October 12, 2020 by Cricket

[deputyd0ng]

2 hours ago, Cricket said:

Nope.  The chest plate has a slight overlap over the "vest" part of the back/yoke part.  I secured the chest plate with industrial velcro at the overlap in the chest area as well as at the side areas where the chest and back plates overlap.  It keeps things really secure, but I don't like having to readjust everything each time Cameron suits up.

In hindsight (and possibly for future builds), I will probably do this approach:  creating a strap across the front part of the back plate that allows for the chest to be secured with snaps.  The photo isn't mine, but I like the idea.  I think strong magnets would work well for this, too.  I probably wouldn't use an ABS strip as they did, but instead use a strap of nylon webbing for this.  

 

 

Thanks cricket...Ive been painting/priming/sanding...and now that the parts are "done" the idea of making them werable seems daunting!  Ive been looking over this thread a lot for references, thanks again for everything.

[deputyd0ng]

Also, what type of snaps do you reccomend?  IM looking to order some now.  Are they screw in for hammer rivet?  and what size?

[Cricket[TK]]

7 minutes ago, deputyd0ng said:

Also, what type of snaps do you reccomend?  IM looking to order some now.  Are they screw in for hammer rivet?  and what size?

The snaps in the pic look like the typical line 24 snaps that we use on TK builds.  That's what I would use.  Look for Tandy brand.  They attach with a hammer.  You'll need a fastener kit like this: 

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-1265-Fastener-Fasteners/dp/B00004T7VT

Or if you prefer to use a little less force for a little more money, you can invest in a snap press.  It is my second favorite build tool (the Dremel is my #1 tool!).  
https://www.goldstartool.com/heavy-duty-press-for-grommets-snaps-buttons-rivets-1-die-set.htm

Edited October 12, 2020 by Cricket

[deputyd0ng]

22 hours ago, Cricket said:

The snaps in the pic look like the typical line 24 snaps that we use on TK builds.  That's what I would use.  Look for Tandy brand.  They attach with a hammer.  You'll need a fastener kit like this: 

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-1265-Fastener-Fasteners/dp/B00004T7VT

Or if you prefer to use a little less force for a little more money, you can invest in a snap press.  It is my second favorite build tool (the Dremel is my #1 tool!).  
https://www.goldstartool.com/heavy-duty-press-for-grommets-snaps-buttons-rivets-1-die-set.htm

 

 

Definitely getting a snap press.

 

I re-printed the right thigh, with the new holster mount.  The holster assembly has two versions, one you print in 3 layers, another that is a complete unit.  What benefit, other than limiting overhangs is there for the 3 layer version?

 

also, for the screws, I saw a post on here regarding which screws to use, my question is, what lenght did you use, and is the M3 ball bearing an M3x7x3  bearing?  Just want to verify before ordering.

 

 

[Cricket[TK]]

6 minutes ago, deputyd0ng said:

I re-printed the right thigh, with the new holster mount.  The holster assembly has two versions, one you print in 3 layers, another that is a complete unit.  What benefit, other than limiting overhangs is there for the 3 layer version?

I'm not entirely sure, sorry.  My guess is that having 3 layers allows you to put some extra reinforcement in there.  I wouldn't use the holster with just the 3D printed layers alone.  I can only imagine someone bumping against you and the blaster snapping off of the holster... and it would be difficult to even notice it was snapped off at all if your helmet is on.  Having some metal installed in the bracket adds a bit of strength so that this kind of scenario won't be as likely to happen.
 

10 minutes ago, deputyd0ng said:

also, for the screws, I saw a post on here regarding which screws to use, my question is, what lenght did you use, and is the M3 ball bearing an M3x7x3  bearing?  Just want to verify before ordering.

This is the image I used for reference.
 

For length, I don't remember exactly what I used, sorry!  I had a pack of assorted metric screws and kind of tried out different lengths.  They weren't the security torx ones because I couldn't find them in the size I needed.  Remember that my build was scaled down, so the length would be different for you anyhow.  The screws I used exited the inside of the thigh armor just a little bit... just enough so I could get some e6000 on them to make sure they wouldn't go anywhere and also to cover the ends to prevent scratches.

I used the 7mm M3 bearings found here.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW18RQY/  I think I kind of eyeballed things for size.  I don't know if you would need to go with a thicker bearing due to scaling, though.  Maybe someone else who has built a full-sized holster bracket could chime in here?  @ukswrath? 

[deputyd0ng]

1 minute ago, Cricket said:

I'm not entirely sure, sorry.  My guess is that having 3 layers allows you to put some extra reinforcement in there.  I wouldn't use the holster with just the 3D printed layers alone.  I can only imagine someone bumping against you and the blaster snapping off of the holster... and it would be difficult to even notice it was snapped off at all if your helmet is on.  Having some metal installed in the bracket adds a bit of strength so that this kind of scenario won't be as likely to happen.
 

This is the image I used for reference.
 

For length, I don't remember exactly what I used, sorry!  I had a pack of assorted metric screws and kind of tried out different lengths.  They weren't the security torx ones because I couldn't find them in the size I needed.  Remember that my build was scaled down, so the length would be different for you anyhow.  The screws I used exited the inside of the thigh armor just a little bit... just enough so I could get some e6000 on them to make sure they wouldn't go anywhere and also to cover the ends to prevent scratches.

I used the 7mm M3 bearings found here.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW18RQY/  I think I kind of eyeballed things for size.  I don't know if you would need to go with a thicker bearing due to scaling, though.  Maybe someone else who has built a full-sized holster bracket could chime in here?  @ukswrath? 

 

 

Makes sense, Ill add a piece of sheet metal in between and drill it out, like you did.

 

And that answers my main question on the bearing, Im guessing this helps it "slide" into place, rather than having a screw head on there that would scrape the blaster.

[Cricket[TK]]

4 minutes ago, deputyd0ng said:

And that answers my main question on the bearing, Im guessing this helps it "slide" into place, rather than having a screw head on there that would scrape the blaster.

From what I'm seeing on the holster I built, the bearing acts as a stopper of sorts.  It supports the blaster and prevents the blaster from rotating forward when locking it into the holster. I could be wrong on this, though (I don't have the holster nearby to double check this!).  And by adding an extra dimensional element, it looks kind of cool, too.  

Edited October 13, 2020 by Cricket

[deputyd0ng]

Hey Cricket, 

 

I have started adding my straps snaps and belcro to make it wearable, but Im having an issue with the back plate, and wanted to get your advice.

 

I printed the back in two pieces, and each "strap" as one piece.  As you can see in the photos, there isnt much clearance to get my arms through, which although when on it fits, when removing I broke the strap at the weld.  I used Sci-Grip Weldon #4 on the outer and inner seam, and when that cured used an old soldering iron to strengthen the weld underneath.

 

I realize I could probably lose a few inches off the straps, as they will be covered by the chest plate.  But I want to somehow re-inforce the straps to the back plate.  Should I extend the sheet metal shoulder tabs for the bells to go across the seam and form them into place and then try to do some welds to the plastic?

 

Surprisingly E-6000 is working on the PETG, I didnt think it would, but so far the fabric elastics I glued into the shin armor seems to be holding up, should I dump some e6000 onto the seam after re-welding?

 

ANY advice would be appreciated, trying to get this thing done by next weekend.  This thread has been a huge help since I started this.

 

 

 

I printed these squares with an 11mm hole in them out of PETG, and welded them into the abdomen plate for snapping the torso suspension on.  So far so good, but I want to address this back plate issue!

 

 

 

[Cricket[TK]]

Finally got around to taking some proper photos of Cameron fully suited up in his armor today! 

This trooper Mom approves.



Took it out for a stroll in our neighborhood.  Because fall, y'all!

 

Cameron reports that the kit is comfortable and totally troopable!  Looking forward to when we can get out and do our thing again.  Stay safe!

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Awesome kit and great photos! That square one of you two walking away with the leaves around needs to be displayed on a wall somewhere.


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[Cricket[TK]]

The time has come, and the boy is rapidly outgrowing this kit.  I'm considering selling it, but I have no idea how to price it.  Armor is solid and still has lots of trooping life left in it.  Would fit a skinny kid body type with a height from 53"-59" (maybe a little taller).   There is some wear in typical areas, inner thighs, inner top of ab where chest plate overlaps.  I think I've got over $200 of 2K clear coat on it alone.  

 

Includes everything, armor, helmet, belt, pouches, gaskets, neck seal, thigh garter, blaster, shoes, gloves.  Also includes two sets of fully completed forearms (one smaller, one a little larger), and two fully completed/assembled shins/spats (one smaller, one slightly larger).   Everything is painted with automotive white gloss to match, and all parts have several coats of 2K clear for protection. Any pricing suggestions would be most welcome!  Thanks troopers!

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Such a labor of love, and sad to see kiddos grow up! But pretty soon you'll be able to get him into an OTTK kit!! No suggestions on pricing from me, but man you did amazing on this project!