Hesikaya's E-11 Build

[Hesikaya[TK]]

I've been working on this blaster off and on for way to long between work, kids, fixing every vehicle I own and of course some trooping.  Originally, I had planned to build one strictly off the E-11 blaster reference using a Doopy doo and then another one with electronics.  Then my wife says to me "why don't you just build the one you really want?" 

 

I am planning on installing the TRamp electronics so my biggest questions I guess is will a functional digital display be satisfactory for EIB / Centurion?

 

Here are some pictures of what I've accomplished so far.  I replaced the globs that represent the bolts on the business end.

 

And added a 3d printed front sight.

 

 

There are a few other things too but I will add them in the coming days.

Edited April 1, 2020 by Hesikaya

[T-Jay[TK]]

Hi Scott, that 3D-printed front sight looks great and you have done an excellent job on the dove tail mod.

5 hours ago, Hesikaya said:

(...)   I am planning on installing the TRamp electronics so my biggest questions I guess is will a functional digital display be satisfactory for EIB / Centurion?   (...)

With the current CRLs I do not see any issues with displays. Usually these are installed in the Hengstler counter and/or in the M.H.R. telescope, facing the wearer. This should be okay, I guess.

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Another thing I've done is to clean out the holes on the bottom of the blaster and the folding stock.  I am using a screw with shrink wrap over the threads to hold it underneath the barrel.  I have a couple small pieces of barrel shaped and flat aluminum for the ejector and i'm about to work on the serial numbers. 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 1, 2020 by Hesikaya

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Here is a side by side comparison of the Doopydoos Hengstler and the 3d printed one from shape ways and shadow defense systems forth BlastFX.

 

Edited April 1, 2020 by Hesikaya

[Hesikaya[TK]]

I was fascinated by the serial number mod that T-Jay did with 2mm stamps when I read through his build thread. I measured the area to be numbered and initially planned on using 1/16th steel stamps to mark 12 characters which are a little smaller and would be about 1.5mm.  Using a couple pieces of scrap paper I ran a few test runs on spacing and my ability to imprint them in a straight and even fashion.  Eventually I figured out I could squeeze 16 characters in the provided space and kept revising the spacing I was allowing myself. I think it's possible using the size stamps I have that all 16 might fit in the space provided but I like the pattern I have.  DSG_1_977_SAW_41469. DSG is my Garrison, 1+977 the year ANH was released, SAW is my initials and 41469 my TKID. The number / letter format is not conventional but hey It's the blaster I want right? 

 

 

 

After I got better at making them straight I decide to just see if I could get my first character over enough and just pressed the stamp to the resin.  I was astonished that is made an imprint!  So thinking I was onto something I just pressed on so to speak. But then I saw that the neatness and clarity I wanted wasn't there.

 

 

 

 Next, I drilled out the area with my Dremmel and filled it with the green stuff.  I will caution you, a little green stuff goes a very long way.  I ended up with way more left over than I needed, even to fix the few little oops I wanted to fix with green stuff.

 

 

 

 

It's not as pretty as I wanted and a little lumpy.  If it doesn't sand nice I may redo this.

 

Edited April 1, 2020 by Hesikaya

[T-Jay[TK]]

Looks great man! Wait one day for the green stuff to fully cure, then sand and check if you are happy with it. A primer might help on this.

[darthcue[TK]]

Is it just me? Or the pictures don't show?

Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

[T-Jay[TK]]

11 hours ago, darthcue said:

Is it just me? Or the pictures don't show?

Hm, seems like something has been changed. 8 days ago I was able to see the photos, but not any more.

[Domingo]

no pic,s ??

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

We advise people use online image hosts such as Imgur to upload an add links to images to threads

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Thanks, gmrhodes13.  I updated the images after I finally broke down and got an imugr account so they should stay put now.

[Domingo]

Looks real nice 

i wil follow this topic

i have Some files to the 3D printer today

 

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Made some Scope rail progress tonight! 

When I was making the pin for the rear sight I had the brilliant idea to make it one piece so it goes all the way through.  So it kinda goes all the way and seemed to be a slight hinderance for the scope rail.  I decided to add a little spacer from the scrap aluminium to raise my rail to a more level appearance and compensate for that odd bump in the back.

[T-Jay[TK]]

Looks great Scott.

 

The additional clearance below the rail will help saving your receiver tube from scratches of the scope screws.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Nice job Scott. I like the spacer idea for the rail scope. Build is coming along nicely. 

The stamping is a nice touch to the bolt. 

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Got a couple nifty new 3D printed parts from my buddy and his resin printer.  They were found on Thiniverse here: Sterling SMG.  A very detailed Sterling with another file of parts to turn it into an E-11.  They are an excellent match to everything I wanted to fix on my Doopydoo. Kudo's to TK14082 for this great design.

 

 I have also threw on a coat of primer on the main parts and started painting some of the smaller bits.  

 

Edited June 15, 2020 by Hesikaya
added link and credit

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Last night I had painted the bolt.  I used primer grey then a layer of flat black with this metallic silver.  I'm not sure the silver was the way to go.  Should I have just used some sort of grey?

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

If the silver pops out too much for your taste, just dull it down with a black (or brownish) washing.

 

Carefully dabbing the wet paint will leave some residue at the right places to also make that bolt look aged and weathered.

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Made some time to do some painting today.  First I started with the scope.  A coat of brass followed by some toothpaste to make weathered spots and then some satin canyon black.  I didn't like that so much so I toned it down with some matte black.  Still seems a little shiny so I may hit it with some plain old flat black in the morning.

 

 

 

 

I also applied an aluminium finish to the entire body.  I think I like that much better than the "silver metallic" paint I used previously.  I think the softer color and less harsh metal flake is more appealing to the eye.  Afterwards I attached my 3d printed magazine well and filled in the gaps with the green stuff.

 

 

 

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Worked on my end cap clip. Used another fine component from T-Jays kit along with a 3d printed part. I tried to free the clip from the single piece of resin that came with the Doopydoos but got overzealous and trimmed too much.

I folded over a piece of an old baking sheet that's been chopped up to make the spring and pinned it with a touch of super glue.

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Edited June 16, 2020 by Hesikaya

[T-Jay[TK]]

Looking at these photos brings back some memories...

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Hopefully the E-11 Gods don't frown on this. As I glued the clip it moved a little bit rearwards and then stuck.  The end cap still goes on so I'm gonna leave it.  Unless of course I hear that it's sacrilege.. 

[T-Jay[TK]]

I would say, all good as long as your end cap doesn't get any problems...

[Hesikaya[TK]]

I know there is a reference out there somewhere for where the handle and counter all relate to each other but I can't find it today.  It will be very important soon.  If anyone knows where I could find that I would be much obliged. 

 

Meanwhile, here is my handle.  an important not is that I have received my BlastFX electronics and it is glorious!  I have a trigger assembly from Shape Ways and am installing the optional rotary switch. I shaved the doopy doo selector handle and gave it a little bump with the dremmel to make a divot where it slides onto the rotary switch.  I also filed out the gap in the rotary switch and slid it in.  And now it's in there for good... probably. 

I made the hole for the trigger assembly.  Now this isn't lining up perfectly just yet.  The front of the trigger is just barely rubbing the inside of the trigger guard.  I may need to leave the trigger assembly sticking out the top of the handle. I already have cut a hole in the bottom of the blaster tube to facilitate moving wires.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 27, 2020 by Hesikaya

[Hesikaya[TK]]

Deeper into the weeds with the rotary switch tonight.  I enlarged the hole a bit more inside the handle so that I could get the switch closer to the top of the opening after reviewing some more Sterling pictures from Aarons Blaster compendium.  I also decided I would use some thicker ABS than I was.  That decision was more based on the fact that I goofed it up and had no more that size. 

 

I am happy with what I have gotten so far.  Realistically this part of the handle is all that's left to do besides wiring it all together during final assembly. I did change the wiring of several components to a 32 AWG ribbon cable so that it looks more clean when I run those wires to the Hengstler and scope but that will be a post for another day.  

 

Here are new pics of the handle and Rotary switch opening placement and the new ABS cover sheet.

 

 

Edited July 1, 2020 by Hesikaya