adamfoxdavis Posted October 5, 2008 Report Posted October 5, 2008 So here it is, yet another FX build progress thread to add to the ever growing list. While I do have some experience constructing plastic sci-fi armor, nothing could have prepared me for the trials involved in fitting & trimming FX White Armor. I won't even be starting on my MR CE bucket over haul until November! I received my FX LITE kit September 29th 2008. I started by 1st fitting the shins and thighs around my legs, and holding them closed. Then I used black duct tape on the outside of the halves at the seam, to hold the parts to size/shape. Next I added additional duct tape to reinforce the inside of the seams, and to prevent accidental shifting of the halves. this was all just to get a good test fit so I could mark off where to trim. I then (foolishly) riveted the top and bottom of the shins together in front because I did not have any E-6000 or Devcon Plastic Welder yet. I thought that the thighs/knees would cover up the rivets, but forgot about the ankles, so there goes any possibility of Elite status out the window! links to Right Shin/greave <a href="http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1289" target="_blank">http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1289</a> <a href="http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1291" target="_blank">http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1291</a> <a href="http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1292" target="_blank">http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1292</a> <a href="http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1293" target="_blank">http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1293</a> links to Right Thigh <a href="http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1296" target="_blank">http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1296</a> <a href="http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1295" target="_blank">http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1295</a> <a href="http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1264" target="_blank">http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1264</a> <a href="http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1263" target="_blank">http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1263</a> NOTE for construction: Duct tape leaves a sticky film on the plastic, this can be easily removed with a paper towel & lighter fluid, or rubbing alcohol. The legs were giving me a huge problem to fit at the ankle and the back of the knees, in that I could not bend my knee without stabbing into the back of my leg (ouch!) So I decided to move on to the Abdomen, Torso, Cod, and Butt plates. I'll post some pictures of the legs so far in my next post. Quote
adamfoxdavis Posted October 5, 2008 Author Report Posted October 5, 2008 Here are some links to pictures and descriptions of the Torso/Cod & Butt Plate so far. I've gone almost exclusively Industrial Strength Velcro for my 1st assembly run. Strapping and Butt Plate http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1287 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1286 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1285 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1281 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1280 I've used a single snap and some elastic to conect the butt plate to the cod. Torso & Cod http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1275 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1274 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1273 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1272 And finaly, my 1st Test Fit. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1265 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1267 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1266 http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?auto...si&img=1268 Thanks for looking. Quote
Murray1134[501st] Posted October 6, 2008 Report Posted October 6, 2008 Be careful in what you are using to remove the duct tape residue. Remember acetone will eat your plastic as well. Looks like you are off to a great start. Quote
cr4nky Posted October 6, 2008 Report Posted October 6, 2008 You might want to consider painter tape, as it doesn´t leave any residue after removal. Quote
foggy[TK] Posted October 6, 2008 Report Posted October 6, 2008 Goo gone is good for removal of adhesive residue. Quote
adamfoxdavis Posted October 6, 2008 Author Report Posted October 6, 2008 Be careful in what you are using to remove the duct tape residue. Remember acetone will eat your plastic as well. Looks like you are off to a great start. Thanks, I thought it was safe for ABS. A friend of mine who workd in a plant gave me that info, but I'll edit that post. Guess I should be more carefull about trying to give advice, huh. Quote
SuperTrooper Posted October 6, 2008 Report Posted October 6, 2008 Acetone is semi safe for ABS, but the shine will be gone forever. Try a naphtha based celaner such as the white cans of OOPS! Multi-Purpose Remover. Quote
TK-7980 Posted October 7, 2008 Report Posted October 7, 2008 I've run into a slight problem when assembling my first piece (the forearms). The E6000 doesn't seem to be bonding to the plastic very well. Any tips? Quote
missingpieces[501st] Posted October 7, 2008 Report Posted October 7, 2008 I've run into a slight problem when assembling my first piece (the forearms). The E6000 doesn't seem to be bonding to the plastic very well. Any tips? Devcon plastic welder? Quote
TK-7980 Posted October 7, 2008 Report Posted October 7, 2008 Would that be better for this type of thing? E6000 held my blaster together with the conversion kit (doopydoos) just fine. I didn't have to hold it together or anything. I can get it at walmart right? Quote
Imperial Knight Jajj Posted October 7, 2008 Report Posted October 7, 2008 i know this might be a bit of a dumb question... but did you sand the areas you are glueing... i dont want to insult you or any thing...... i use a plastic epoxy and it doesnt stick very well if i dont sand it... Quote
TK-7980 Posted October 7, 2008 Report Posted October 7, 2008 Oh crap! I was supposed to sand it?! Maybe that's why! Haha, wow. That goo gone stuff would get rid of the E6000 residue right? Quote
foggy[TK] Posted October 7, 2008 Report Posted October 7, 2008 Goo gone will get rid of tape & velcro adhesive residue. For glue which had set, in the seam areas, I found careful sanding was effective. If the glue is still tacky, goo gone may work. You can apply some goo gone to a paper towel and let it soak the area for a few minutes. Quote
adamfoxdavis Posted October 7, 2008 Author Report Posted October 7, 2008 I've run into a slight problem when assembling my first piece (the forearms). The E6000 doesn't seem to be bonding to the plastic very well. Any tips? Hey Alex, looks like the more experianced TK builders have your question covered. I have been sanding all the areas to be bonded, and have not had any problems...yet. On an unrelated note, I thought I saw your FX LITE kit for sale in the thread, what happened if don't mind telling? Cheers Quote
adamfoxdavis Posted October 7, 2008 Author Report Posted October 7, 2008 So I found some great material for lining the armor at Jo Ann Fabrics, it's black and soft like Cotton on one side, and Grey textured foam on the other, I believe it is actually called helmet liner. It's about a 1/2 CM thick, and gives just enough extra padding & friction to make the armor comfortable and fit well. It also stops the pieces from sliding around or rotating. As an added benefit for the winter TK, it does offer some warmth, though this may be undesirable during the summer. I'll post pics latter this week, so far I've tested it on the Right Bicep & Forearm/Bracer. CONSTRUCTION QUESTION: Anyone have any advice on a bonding agent for fabric to ABS? Thanks Quote
VacTrooper Posted October 8, 2008 Report Posted October 8, 2008 So I found some great material for lining the armor at Jo Ann Fabrics, it's black and soft like Cotton on one side, and Grey textured foam on the other, I believe it is actually called helmet liner. It's about a 1/2 CM thick, and gives just enough extra padding & friction to make the armor comfortable and fit well. It also stops the pieces from sliding around or rotating. As an added benefit for the winter TK, it does offer some warmth, though this may be undesirable during the summer. I'll post pics latter this week, so far I've tested it on the Right Bicep & Forearm/Bracer. CONSTRUCTION QUESTION: Anyone have any advice on a bonding agent for fabric to ABS? Thanks about your constuction problem... E6000 should do the trick, or hot melt glue. nice work, BTW Quote
adamfoxdavis Posted October 8, 2008 Author Report Posted October 8, 2008 Thanks for the info on fabric to ABS bonding VacTrooper. I finished my chest & belt mounting rig harness tonight, and bonded the right thigh together. The plan is to fasten the shoulder bells to the under rig, so that the Ab/Cod can come off separate from the rest. I'm hoping for a modular construction that will allow bathroom breaks to be painless and quick, while only removing what is absolutely necessary. Cheers! Quote
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