Highlander’s AP ANH Stunt Build

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Always best to check the gallery sections, CRL is approximate measurements, just because a maker has mold lines does not make it correct

• Measurements given in this document are intended to be approximate and generalized; not criteria for approval.

CRL image is a guide, we try to give screen references when giving feedback on builds as you may be aiming for L3 

 

[rwmead10]

6 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Always best to check the gallery sections, CRL is approximate measurements, just because a maker has mold lines does not make it correct

• Measurements given in this document are intended to be approximate and generalized; not criteria for approval.

CRL image is a guide, we try to give screen references when giving feedback on builds as you may be aiming for L3 

 

Makes sense to me and I am trying for the highest level possible. Thanks for the feedback. I will make the appropriate adjustments to the TD. It looks like I may need to bring my rivet hole marks further in from the edge of the ammo pack.

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

1 minute ago, rwmead10 said:

Makes sense to me and I am trying for the highest level possible. Thanks for the feedback. I will make the appropriate adjustments to the TD. It looks like I may need to bring my rivet hole marks further in from the edge of the ammo pack.

 

Hi Ryan,  as Glen pointed  for higher levels (even basic) , it's too important to check the gallery . 

The crls states :  Text descriptions are only one part of the guideline. GML's and costumers must consider both text and pictures (CRL and Reference) when reviewing the costume.

 

When  giving advices , tips and reviewing EIB and Centurion level apps, we consider both CRL and Reference Images. 

 

About your ammo pack rivets , your measures looks ok,  you can mark 5mm down and 10mm across and see haow the mark looks acording to the references.

 

      

 

Keep on doing a great work !!  

 

 

 

 

 

[rwmead10]

I adjusted to 9mm down and 13mm on from the edge. Looks about right to me. 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

9 hours ago, rwmead10 said:

I adjusted to 9mm down and 13mm on from the edge. Looks about right to me. 

just a question, are those rivets  8mm diameter?  

[ABS80]

7 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

just a question, are those rivets  8mm diameter?  

The AP kits come with 8mm rivets

 

Mark (AP)

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

17 hours ago, rwmead10 said:

I adjusted to 9mm down and 13mm on from the edge. Looks about right to me. 

Looking good

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

22 minutes ago, ABS80 said:

The AP kits come with 8mm rivets

 

Mark (AP)

Cool Mark, asked just to confirm. thanks  !! 

[rwmead10]

I marked the holes on the inner strip side and used a dremel to sand out the holes to match the inner strip. I used a small cone sanding attachment to make room for the small sanding drum to even it out. Then, following cricket’s tutorial, I lined up the other side and taped and used magnets to keep it closed. Then, with them still held closed, I used the same two step process to sand out the other side.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, looking forward to seeing these in action

[rwmead10]

Calf cover strips are done. However it looks like the cover strip straightened out the outer side of the left calf and it is under some tension to close. I will need to give it another hot water bath to get a better curve to ease any stress on the magnets. I am giving the glue ample time to cure to avoid any issues. 

 

[68Brick[TK]]

Or, peel the cover strip off now, and hot water bath it to shape … then re-E6000 it to the calf.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I find with most makes that you have to apply a little heat to the shin closure to get them to sit a little flatter.

[rwmead10]

20 hours ago, 68Brick said:

Or, peel the cover strip off now, and hot water bath it to shape … then re-E6000 it to the calf.

This calf was giving me trouble the first time so I’m hoping the cover strip will give me the leverage I need to get them lined up better.

[rwmead10]

Another successful hot water bath in the books. I found that overlapping the sides kept them in line when forming, holds the shape better and brought it very close together. Moving forward with gluing the magnets in!

[rwmead10]

I oriented the buttons and magnets how they will end up and marked with a sharpie on the side that would be glued to make sure they were oriented correctly. I glued the magnets in the cover strip, added the magnet buttons and another magnet on top of that on the outer side for strength. The magnets were moving when the hole strip was over them so I am letting it glue in this position for 16 hours, realign and then cure for an additional day or two.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work

[Sly11[Admin]]

Steam rolling it now, and such a clean build, very impressive Ryan and keep up the good work.

[rwmead10]

Trimmed the thermal detonator caps, panel and overall length to more accurate dimensions. It’s about 1/16” under 7 1/4” but it will have to do. Will drill holes for mounting the clips and begin painting.

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

Hi Ryan, looking good.

 

Some reference photos for the screws position.  

 

 

                           

 

 

 

 

[MaskedVengeance[Staff]]

Those calves look amazing, Ryan! As far as for painting the TD, what paint are you planning on using? I used one which ended up being too dark, so I’m curious what you’ve found. My TD woes and work are well documented on my own unfinished build thread. Somehow I lost track of your build for several months, but I just caught up and am loving your work!


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[rwmead10]

I am using the AP TD clips shown below. I will be rounding the edges and bending the ends slightly to make it easier to get on and off. I think I am going to leave the length since it is the the exact width of the belt and very secure and doesn’t show when on the belt. Welcome to suggestions on that point because I know the screen used TDs were even with the end of the tube. 
 

I was planning on using humbrol dark admiral grey the same as the teeth and traps.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

2 hours ago, rwmead10 said:

I was planning on using humbrol dark admiral grey the same as the teeth and traps.

Thank will work out nicely

[rwmead10]

I taped off the areas of the TD that will be glued and brush painted with Humbrol #5 Dark Admiralty Grey (same as the teeth and traps on the helmet). It took two coats and should be ready for final assembly tomorrow. Also I drilled some paint sticks with a 9/64” drill bit to hold the 6-32 x 1/2” pan head screws and paint them black. I tested both Humbrol #21 gloss black and #85 satin black and they look very close. I will probably go with the satin since it isn’t quite as shiny. I had to buy a bag of 100 so if anyone needs TD screws let me know.

[rwmead10]

After a few magnets being re-glued for better alignment, I glued the button covers on and the shins are drying. There is a small area on the left shin that I probably need to hit with a heat gun to bend closer but I will see how they fit first.