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Posted

Nice work, coming along great

Posted

Small Update:

 

Ordered 2 tubes of E6000, they should be arriving on Thursday!

Also Ordering my dads kit tomorrow night, along with all the other pieces we need, very exciting!

 

In the meantime, I cut my frown pieces out for my helmet:

67dM5pE.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

hello all. We've been waiting for the e6000 as we have run out of glue!

One question though, which of the 4 bumps on the ear of the helmet do you paint black? and is it on both sides? Thanks!

Posted (edited)
59 minutes ago, chiefbonan said:

which of the 4 bumps on the ear of the helmet do you paint black? and is it on both sides? Thanks!

Hi, As per the CRL 

 

Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).

 

It doesn't indicate which one is painted, The common painted is the last one from the front. 

 

Cheers 

 

 

 

IMG_20200206_133412.jpg

Edited by TKSpartan
Add text
  • Like 1
Posted

Hello, just doing some torso fitting. It is all going great, but we are finding that some of the snaps are weak and come apart with little effort. Is there any way to fix this?

Posted

Snap quality can vary, I have great ones and good ones. In a pinch you can add some glue but that is a temporary quick fix.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
8 hours ago, chiefbonan said:

some of the snaps are weak and come apart with little effort. Is there any way to fix this?

Hi, can you post some photos of where exactly are you having problems? 

 

Cheers

Posted
14 hours ago, chiefbonan said:

Hello, just doing some torso fitting. It is all going great, but we are finding that some of the snaps are weak and come apart with little effort. Is there any way to fix this?

Hi Thomas

If you want good quality snaps that wont fail easily, you can get them from most leather supply stores. Not sure if you have Mac-lace in Vic but you could try Leffler leather in Melbourne.

Generally they are of a better quality and a little more heavy duty so wont fail easily.  The snaps from Spotlight and general haberdashery stores are not always the best.

https://www.leffler.com.au/

Posted
14 hours ago, chiefbonan said:

Hello, just doing some torso fitting. It is all going great, but we are finding that some of the snaps are weak and come apart with little effort. Is there any way to fix this?

As some have already said it can be the type/quality of snap, also the post may not be being bent enough, you could try the following

 

 

Posted

Hello all, have been super busy, I haven't died! Update post coming soon. 

Is it possible to trim the bottom of the shoulder bells off so you can see more of the bicep? Thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, chiefbonan said:

Hello all, have been super busy, I haven't died! Update post coming soon. 

Is it possible to trim the bottom of the shoulder bells off so you can see more of the bicep? Thanks!

Hi, great new that you haven't died. :laugh1:

I think yes, it's possible to trim the shoulder bells, but try to be sure that it's really needed to do. Put on all your armor a take fotos and check. You compare with reference photos of original movies scenes and pics. 

 

Also you can post them  here. 

Cheers

Posted

Hey everyone! Me and Dad have been hard at work! We have made alot of progress.

Got some tubes of the legendary E-6000:

vsD4ZFM.jpg

 

Got some rubber gloves:

fcTHGRF.jpg

 

So we found the butt plate stuck out over the kidney plate, so we put some tabs on the inside:

F2YP5cJ.jpgtX6Gr32.jpg

 

And we started to build the arms, here is the right one:

PQsbfbn.jpgJ1Fnj32.jpghjLoyGB.jpg

 

And finally we finished the shoulder strapping:

sJzCbDT.jpg iXzzcE6.jpg

 

So that is wat we've been up to. Dad is getting more and more excited to get his armour soon. We still haven't moved onto the legs, but we will once the arms are done!

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice work:duim: Just a little heads up that if the tabs are seen between the parts they need to be black. 

Posted
13 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Nice work:duim: Just a little heads up that if the tabs are seen between the parts they need to be black. 

Oh yeah they are black on the other side, should've shown that, thanks for the heads up though

  • Like 2
Posted

That will depend on if they are leather or a man-made material. Thomas.  If they are leather, you will need to remove the finish with acetone (the stronger stuff, not like that found in nail polish remover) and lightly sanded so that the paint/dye will adhere.  There are several companies that make these products, so it may take a bit of searching.

 

If they are plastic, the finish will still have to be removed, but NOT with acetone, as it could melt them.  This link may help.

 

Whichever type you have, it is VERY important to let the dye dry completely between coats.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/17/2020 at 3:41 PM, chiefbonan said:

Got me a pair of boots today!, what is the best way to paint them?

iL12S1P.jpg 

Hopefully the neck is high enough, sometimes the lower neck boots will pull out from under the shins, either adding velco or elastic and snaps to hold them in place could help.

 

Also notice the elastic on the sides is a lot lower on your pair, although a GML possibly wouldn't notice that, could be picked up at higher levels though.

 

img9

  • Like 1
Posted
20 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Hopefully the neck is high enough, sometimes the lower neck boots will pull out from under the shins, either adding velco or elastic and snaps to hold them in place could help.

 

Also notice the elastic on the sides is a lot lower on your pair, although a GML possibly wouldn't notice that, could be picked up at higher levels though.

 

img9

Damn that doesn't sound good with the elastic, hopefully it shouldn't be an issue

Posted (edited)

Hello all. My dad some testing for the hand guards. The laytex ones you can get online are a bit 'not cheap', so my dad was looking for alternatives. The CRL states that the Cert 3 hand guards need to be 'laytex or laytex like'. My dad stated that EVA Foam is a type of laytex, so should be approveable, but I do not think I agree. Here are pictures of a VERY ROUGH draft EVA Foam handplate, next to the Solid ABS ones for reference. Do you think this is acceptable? 

SyJAwzW.jpgkEE99Cu.jpgjh6shfy.jpg

 

ALSO PSA, my dad wanted all of you to know his armour has been sent by the armour dealer! Only a matter of 1-2 weeks before it gets here and we start this process all over again! But now we have more knowledge AND my dad isn't as skinny, sizeing should be a lot easier and faster!

 

Edited by chiefbonan
Posted

Nice work on the shape but they are a little rough looking on the top, not sure it that's paint though? For basic approval your GML (garrison membership liaison) would be deciding so I would check with him/her. For L3 it is required that you bend them to show they are latex (or latex like) so yo may want to try that, ultimately you would need one of our Deployment Officers to chime in, I'll tag them now @justjoseph63 @shashachu
 

Posted
28 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work on the shape but they are a little rough looking on the top, not sure it that's paint though? For basic approval your GML (garrison membership liaison) would be deciding so I would check with him/her. For L3 it is required that you bend them to show they are latex (or latex like) so yo may want to try that, ultimately you would need one of our Deployment Officers to chime in, I'll tag them now @justjoseph63 @shashachu
 

Hello, Yes it is dark EVA Foam coated with white paint, it would probably not bend too much unless it was thinner. Again it was a really rough version since we are going to be ordering parts off of Trooperbay soon, so we were deciding if we needed to include the hand guards or not

Posted

Those actually turned out pretty well, but you may want to re-think the shape/design a bit to be more screen accurate.  They definitely should be thinner, though, to conform with the shape of the top of your hand. 

 

YjrTaWB.jpg?2     Tkl0eQL.jpg?1

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