AntMur - ANH TK Armor Build - AP Armor

[AntMur]

Finally started un-boxing, inventorying and test fitting the armor pieces yesterday.  I thought what better day to start than on "501st Day" 

(meant to post this yesterday, but became consumed with all the parts and wanting to see that "smile/frown"  -  )

 

Will be posting pics as soon as I get my Imgur account setup.  Seems PhotoBucket is not the "preferred" choice due to their new pay model.

Does anyone use a different photo-hosting service that may be easier/better/etc?  Bit of a pain having to upload to one site and then link it in each post.  I understand the limitations on this site due to space considerations, just trying to be as simple as possible.

 

Cheers Everyone, 

 

Ant

 

[wook1138[TK]]

Hi and congrats on the armour!  AP is great stuff.  

 

For pictures I was using Tapatalk - you can upload images directly from your phone.  However, I was having some issues with it on other forums to I haven't been using it much lately.  As far as I know, it still works well with FISD.

 

Good luck with your build!

[AntMur]

Started going through all the pieces and parts.  I decided to test assemble the bucket.

One of my fears (and realities) has come into play - I have a larger than typical trooper head.  Getting the bucket on my head is a bit of a struggle even starting sideways and rotating it.

My eyes are just at the eye openings without any padding yet.     Oh, and will definitely have to look at cooling fans - gets warm pretty quick.

 

Looking at the head opening I noticed that there may be a couple places I can get some "extra" size, but don't want to jeopardize my approval.

 

 

 

 

1. The overlap of the face and the top/rear of the bucket - Do you think I can move the holes out a bit to enlarge the helmet that way?  The ears would still cover the overlap
2. Can I trim the head opening a bit more just to make it larger? Looking at where the ears come down to the bottom of the bucket at the overlap it looks like there is some possibility to trim a little bit.

So many questions I have now that I've started - 

 

Cheers, 

 

Ant

 

 

[wook1138[TK]]

45 minutes ago, AntMur said:

• The overlap of the face and the top/rear of the bucket - Do you think I can move the holes out a bit to enlarge the helmet that way?  The ears would still cover the overlap
• Can I trim the head opening a bit more just to make it larger? Looking at where the ears come down to the bottom of the bucket at the overlap it looks like there is some possibility to trim a little bit.

I had the same problem.  I wouldn't mess with the screw holes too much - you don't want the bottom of your face plate to stick out  - the helmet won't have the right profile and the tubes along the cheeks will not line up nicely with the tube shape that runs around the back of the helmet. 

 

I trimmed the opening a bit.  You could easily trim some off of the front part and probably a bit off the back.  One word of caution - take very little off at a time.  It doesn't take much to make that opening larger and you don't want to overdo it.  Also, keep in mind that you will have rubber trim installed along the opening.  You will need room (edge) to get it on under the ears.  Plus, it will decrease the size of the opening slightly (as I found out the hard way).  

 

I struggle a bit every time I put my helmet on - it was so tight that I had to practice getting it on. 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Just watch how much you change the position on the sides as it can make fitting the ears an issue as they sit on different areas. Can also change the height of the brow trim so it's something to keep in mind.

 

Trimming the opening a little more is acceptable. Also not to put the helmet on you need to twist sideways first get your head and nose through then twist  

[AntMur]

8 hours ago, wook1138 said:

I had the same problem.  I wouldn't mess with the screw holes too much - you don't want the bottom of your face plate to stick out  - the helmet won't have the right profile and the tubes along the cheeks will not line up nicely with the tube shape that runs around the back of the helmet. 

 

I trimmed the opening a bit.  You could easily trim some off of the front part and probably a bit off the back.  One word of caution - take very little off at a time.  It doesn't take much to make that opening larger and you don't want to overdo it.  Also, keep in mind that you will have rubber trim installed along the opening.  You will need room (edge) to get it on under the ears.  Plus, it will decrease the size of the opening slightly (as I found out the hard way).  

 

I struggle a bit every time I put my helmet on - it was so tight that I had to practice getting it on. 

 

Thanks Wook1138. -  I was thinking about the rubber trim as well.  I’ll be doing a slooowwwwww sand/trim to make the head hole a bit bigger.  At least get it to the same size once the rubber trim is on. 

[AntMur]

On 1/7/2020 at 1:26 PM, wook1138 said:

I had the same problem.  I wouldn't mess with the screw holes too much - you don't want the bottom of your face plate to stick out  - the helmet won't have the right profile and the tubes along the cheeks will not line up nicely with the tube shape that runs around the back of the helmet. 

 

I trimmed the opening a bit.  You could easily trim some off of the front part and probably a bit off the back.  One word of caution - take very little off at a time.  It doesn't take much to make that opening larger and you don't want to overdo it.  Also, keep in mind that you will have rubber trim installed along the opening.  You will need room (edge) to get it on under the ears.  Plus, it will decrease the size of the opening slightly (as I found out the hard way).  

 

I struggle a bit every time I put my helmet on - it was so tight that I had to practice getting it on. 

@Greg - would you be able to measure your helmet opening for me?  Trying to gauge how much "extra" I might have to play with when trimming.

 

I have :

Front to Back -  approx 17.5cm  (6 5/8")

Ear to Ear -  approx 23cm  (~9")

 

I've trimmed about 3mm (1/8th") all around and I'm finding it the same to get my helmet on especially testing with the rubber trim. 

I nicked my forehead on one of the screws trying different was of putting on the helmet.    *sigh*

 

Edited January 26, 2020 by AntMur

[wook1138[TK]]

5 hours ago, AntMur said:

@Greg - would you be able to measure your helmet opening for me?  Trying to gauge how much "extra" I might have to play with when trimming.

 

I have :

Front to Back -  approx 17.5cm  (6 5/8")

Ear to Ear -  approx 23cm  (~9")

 

I've trimmed about 3mm (1/8th") all around and I'm finding it the same to get my helmet on especially testing with the rubber trim. 

I nicked my forehead on one of the screws trying different was of putting on the helmet.    *sigh*

 

Lol.  This sounds familiar.

 

I measured mine with the S-trim in place:

Front to back - 17cm

Ear to ear - 22cm

 

Yeah, I trimmed those screws back a touch and sanded them down.  I put my bucket on at 90 degrees (I face towards the right ear - it won't go on the other way - weird, right?) and it is a tight fit.  I have to wobble it a bit to get past those screws when I finally get my head in enough to turn the helmet the right way.  I know I could trim more off of my opening if I had to, but I seem to make it work. 

 

During my first troop...  At one point we were allowed to take our helmets off for a bit - well, I couldn't get my bucket back on.  It took me about 3 minutes (it felt like much longer) to get it back on.  Wearing a balaclava didn't help either. 

[AntMur]

9 hours ago, wook1138 said:

Lol.  This sounds familiar.

 

I measured mine with the S-trim in place:

Front to back - 17cm

Ear to ear - 22cm

 

Yeah, I trimmed those screws back a touch and sanded them down.  I put my bucket on at 90 degrees (I face towards the right ear - it won't go on the other way - weird, right?) and it is a tight fit.  I have to wobble it a bit to get past those screws when I finally get my head in enough to turn the helmet the right way.  I know I could trim more off of my opening if I had to, but I seem to make it work. 

 

During my first troop...  At one point we were allowed to take our helmets off for a bit - well, I couldn't get my bucket back on.  It took me about 3 minutes (it felt like much longer) to get it back on.  Wearing a balaclava didn't help either. 

Thanks @wook1138.

I measured mine without my trim on, so we're about the same size on the opening.

Funny you mention that you couldn't put your helmet back on.  I had the same thing test fitting.  I think I was getting hot and frustrated which likely caused a bit of swelling.  

 

I looked at re-drilling the holes by using my magnet clamps to hold the bucket without screws.  I realized that because of the top cap and the way it fits you end up only being able to pivot the bottom apart a bit.  This does make the helmet look a little wonky.  Holding the helmet up to a strong light you can see that the holes only get offset about 2-3mm at most and then the holes get a bit too close to the edge.  I think I wouldn't be happy with this look for all the work it would take going that route

 

Thank you to @ABS80 at AP for messaging with me off-line about options and ideas.  Sent me some info that looks like I can trim a bit more and still keep the proper look.  Made me feel a little less nervous about cutting more off my bucket.  Hoping to make some more progress after getting over this feeling of "not wanting to ruin my armor"   LOL

 

 

[wook1138[TK]]

33 minutes ago, AntMur said:

Hoping to make some more progress after getting over this feeling of "not wanting to ruin my armor"   LOL

Ha ha, It takes a while for that feeling to go away - but it is amazing what kind of mistakes you can fix if you need to.  

 

Yeah, based on what material I have left on my bucket - you have room to trim.  And I agree that trying to move the screws around can get tricky - best to avoid if possible.  I had to move the lower hole a bit (down a touch) to eliminate the "ear gap".  Wasn't really necessary since the ear gap is totally screen accurate.  

 

For bucket inspiration, check this site out:

http://starwarshelmets.com/original-stormtrooper-helmets-sub-submenu.htm

[AntMur]

OK, have finally been able to make some more progress and happy to report I'm comfortable with the way the helmet fits and I can actually get it on and off reasonably with out too much cussing 

New opening sizes :

Front to Back -  approx 18cm

Ear to Ear -  approx 23.5cm

 

 

 

 

I know not a lot, but i made a difference for me.  I'll see how it goes and might consider taking a bit more.

 

Question:  I've put the neck seal AP sends and I've snugged it under the ears to help hold it in place.  I haven't been able to find any specific pics showing if this is OK or not?

 

I do plan to get the "S" Seal for Centurion approval.

 

 

Edited February 2, 2020 by AntMur

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I ran my s trim over the ears but appears you can have it under

 

 

Many have a gap between the ears and trim

 

 

 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Looking SHARP. Anthony, and glad to hear that you are headed toward Centurion level!    For level 3 I wouldn't fret about the bottom of the ears being under the S trim, as it will not affect approval for Centurion.  

Depending on how close you want to get to screen accuracy, something to think about is moving the tops of the ears a bit more forward (if possible).  Ideally the center of the top round part should sit directly below the rear of the trap above them, and the screws should (again, ideally) be lined up as seen below.

Not a deal breaker for Level 2 or even 3, but something to think about.

 

    

[AntMur]

OK, I know its been a while, but life got a bit crazy and then this whole COVID-19 thing came along 

 

I have been working on things so here is a bit of an update.

 

Thermal Detonator assembled:

 

 

 

I have also painted the inside of the bucket and started on the frown.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looking to start the vocoder next and then the stickers for the traps and tears.  Also going to Sugru the lens and mesh in place.

 

QUESTION:  Any tips and trick for getting the stickers placed easier and properly?

 

Cheers,

 

Antony

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work, you may just want to check the gaps between your TD end caps and centre panel, looks a little narrow.

 

 

 

With stickers you can add with soapy water but it takes a while to push the liquid out and get them to stick well. I just try to put them on as is and aim for getting them in the right position from a corner, you can still remove if you make a mistake.

[AntMur]

1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work, you may just want to check the gaps between your TD end caps and centre panel, looks a little narrow.

 

 

 

With stickers you can add with soapy water but it takes a while to push the liquid out and get them to stick well. I just try to put them on as is and aim for getting them in the right position from a corner, you can still remove if you make a mistake.

Thanks Q - (Glen).  Totally missed the gaping on the and caps and the plate.

 

I trimmed the plate to open the gap a bit more and I think it does look better now.  More proportional.

 

I'll make sure to not have coffee before I put the stickers on the bucket -    -  LOL

 

 

 

 

 

[ABS80]

Looks perfect now,  the refference  Glen used I think is a ROTJ TD completely different ,  ANH TD have less gaps and the end caps are thicker,  to be safe only use ANH refference photos

Edited March 31, 2020 by ABS80

[troopermaster]

4 hours ago, ABS80 said:

Looks perfect now,  the refference  Glen used I think is a ROTJ TD completely different ,  ANH TD have less gaps and the end caps are thicker,  to be safe only use ANH refference photos

WOW! If you don't know the difference between an ANH and ROTJ detonator by now, I would refrain from commenting. Both detonators Glen posted are ANH and are the same one, except one photo was taken when it had paint on and the other with paint removed, but both are 100% ANH.

 

This is an ROTJ for your future reference. Let me know if you need more help identifying any trooper parts

 

[ABS80]

On 3/31/2020 at 3:44 AM, troopermaster said:

WOW! If you don't know the difference between an ANH and ROTJ detonator by now, I would refrain from commenting. Both detonators Glen posted are ANH and are the same one, except one photo was taken when it had paint on and the other with paint removed, but both are 100% ANH.

 

This is an ROTJ for your future reference. Let me know if you need more help identifying any trooper parts

 

Honestely never studied the ROTJ suits I don't like them at all,  I said "I think"  since I was referring at the fact that they had more spacing and thinner end caps like the ROTJ compared to most ANH screenshots I'm used in seeing.

[AntMur]

Well this COVID-19 thing has given me sometime to work on my bucket. 

Pretty happy with my progress, but have a few questions and looking for feedback.

 

1. Vocoder - I'm having a hard time painting it and think I got it.  The various pictures of other helmets show a bit of variation .
   Hovi tips - Just confirming I need to paint the outer ring on each one white?
   
    
2. Sadly while applying the left tear decal I had a small tear.  I tried to smooth is out, but that's as good as I could get it.  Do I need to replaced it or will it pass?
   
   Tube Stripes - I applied the decals and was happy with how they looked.  I then re-assembled the bucket and noticed that the ears are covering the stripes on each side.  I'm thinking I need to remove a couple of the stripes so they aren't covered and have the white space . 
   
   
     
3. 

I know the screws need to be painted white still, but thought I may need to dis-assemble the bucket to remove the tube stripes.
Also need to touch up the ears and rank stripes

 

I appreciate the feedback to let me know how my progress looks.

 

Cheers,

 

Antony

Edited April 27, 2020 by AntMur

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

6 hours ago, AntMur said:

Just confirming I need to paint the outer ring on each one white?

Hi Antony, looking good. for Anh helmet yes, for levels 2 and 3 you need to piant the outer ring :

 

crl "Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white.

 

    

 

6 hours ago, AntMur said:

Sadly while applying the left tear decal I had a small tear.  I tried to smooth is out, but that's as good as I could get it.  Do I need to replaced it or will it pass?

Have you tried to smooth the tear using a hair dryer ? I think I would help.

 

 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Well this COVID-19 thing has given me sometime to work on my bucket. 
Pretty happy with my progress, but have a few questions and looking for feedback.
 

1. Vocoder - I'm having a hard time painting it and think I got it.  The various pictures of other helmets show a bit of variation .
   Hovi tips - Just confirming I need to paint the outer ring on each one white?
   
    
2. Sadly while applying the left tear decal I had a small tear.  I tried to smooth is out, but that's as good as I could get it.  Do I need to replaced it or will it pass?
   
   Tube Stripes - I applied the decals and was happy with how they looked.  I then re-assembled the bucket and noticed that the ears are covering the stripes on each side.  I'm thinking I need to remove a couple of the stripes so they aren't covered and have the white space . 
   
   
     
3. 

I know the screws need to be painted white still, but thought I may need to dis-assemble the bucket to remove the tube stripes.
Also need to touch up the ears and rank stripes
 
I appreciate the feedback to let me know how my progress looks.
 
Cheers,
 
Antony

Hi Anthony,

If you are making adjustments to the tubestripes, you could consider adjusting the stripes furthest forward. As per the below link, it looks like you’ve applied your tubestripes to the opposite cheeks, meaning that the front few stripes point more towards the eyes than towards the nose.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/

This will come up if you go for the higher clearance levels. :-)

[AntMur]

8 hours ago, TKSpartan said:

Hi Antony, looking good. for Anh helmet yes, for levels 2 and 3 you need to piant the outer ring :

 

crl "Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white.

 

    

 

Have you tried to smooth the tear using a hair dryer ? I think I would help.

 

 

@TKSpartan- I haven't tried a hairdryer, but it's so small I'm not sure if I can work it out without tearing it more.  I may try and see what happens.  Worst case I order another set of stickers.

[AntMur]

6 hours ago, CableGuy said:

 

Hi Anthony,

If you are making adjustments to the tubestripes, you could consider adjusting the stripes furthest forward. As per the below link, it looks like you’ve applied your tubestripes to the opposite cheeks, meaning that the front few stripes point more towards the eyes than towards the nose.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/

This will come up if you go for the higher clearance levels. :-)

 

Thanks @CableGuy.

I think I went back and forth on which side was which for about 2-3 hours looking at pictures and such.  I guess I did not "choose wisely". 

I may try to re-position, but I'm not sure how easily the small vinyl will come-up.  I think I may order another set of decals as I had the one tear under the eye as well.

[wook1138[TK]]

19 minutes ago, AntMur said:

I think I went back and forth on which side was which for about 2-3 hours looking at pictures and such.  I guess I did not "choose wisely". 

Lol.  I did the exact same thing.  It might be easiest to just re-order decals or... you could consider painting (more screen accurate - wink wink).  Yeah, those last few stripes under the ear should go.  Looking good otherwise.