MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 (edited) [DISCLAIMER: THIS THREAD WILL INCLUDE MANY LINKS, FOR BOTH MY FUTURE REFERENCE AND USE BY OTHER TROOPERS] I've always wanted to wear an orange pauldron. I've always wanted to be a stormtrooper. Yes, sandtroopers are cool, and I imagine someday I will make the conversion (ABS yellowing?), but right now I'm still drawn to shiny white armor. I recently began my journey to join the Legion with an ANH Stunt TK kit and in the past couple of weeks I caught the BFG bug. DLT-19 and T-21 build threads consumed my Tapatalk time, and then I discovered the HWT. Eureka! Yes, I'll have to shell out for some MP-40 pouches, and build a backpack, which sounds fun, but—ORANGE PAULDRON and BFG!!! So much like Kman's side track, here is my semi-tangent. For kicks I'm going to have to boot up my old Battlefront games to check out some of the heavies, but luckily there are already some great screen caps here on the forum, and of course there's the CRL (link). I'm aware that there has been discussion on building packs to match the games vs the CRL, and my plan is to stick to Joseph's CRL model image as close as possible to maintain continuity (guide link), but there are several areas in which I will differ / provide my own interpretation. My plans, including the small variances which I believe will be approvable, will be noted by category in the next section below, and in general to plan take inspiration for my build from the following trailblazers: Tony's (Ukswrath) three part series Charles' (Templar) two threads Shawn's (@CrookKnight) thread (he also sells them) Kalani's (Kman) thread Zac's (Devolver) thread Bradley's (@AngryEwok) thread. My goodness, I particularly love the analysis on this one. Rick's (Caligari) thread Sarah's (Alay) thread Eric's (@Eric Ostendorf) 3D printed pack and files. Amazing work and very generous to share. [NEW ADDITION] Pauldron I've seen troopers debate between Trooper1 and TB for the purchase of a pauldron, and I'm almost certain I'll be going with @trooper1 for my orange. Is there any reason for me to reconsider other options? I'm still waiting on an email response from Jay for pricing, and hopefully I won't have to change plans based on the cost. MP-40 Pouches I likely simply need to do more research, but these recommended ebay ones from this thread are sold out, so I'm seeking alternatives. I did reach out to the ebay seller, and he hopes to have them back in stock sometime in the new year. In general I'd prefer to go pre-pade for these pouches, but any suggestions would be welcome. Oil Pan Base The oil pan used as the base of the backpack is perhaps the area in which I'm most curious about, in relation to the CRL. In the CRL photo Joseph is donning a pan from Bavarian Autosport, but unfortunately they closed shop earlier this (2019) year. [Anybody have an extra Bavarian pan they'd like to sell?] This means that all Heavies from now on will no longer be able to perfectly match the CRL, and we are instead left with two primary options—the Wedco 12.5qt model 83150 or the GarageBOSS 12.5q model GB150 (also available here). However, I believe there is a third, and possibly a fourth option. Here are the specs of the aforementioned pans, and the two others I am considering. CRL Model: Bavarian 16qt, dimensions 22" x 16" x 6.5' (photos by Templar (2) and justjoseph63) Wedco and GarageBOSS 12.5qt identical options, both with dimensions of 21.5" x 15.75" x 3.5" There are the most commonly-used oil cans now, since Bavarian has closed shop. I'm not a huge fan of them due to their shallow depth and their angled handle, which isn't accurate to the game or the CRL (see section right above). GarageBOSS 16qt discovery, dimensions 22.75" x 16.75" x 5.5" This is the first alternative option which I am considering building with. I especially like that it is deeper than the Wedco's, but not quite the the larger depth of the Bavarian. I'm quite bummed that I didn't pull the trigger on one of these the other day when Walmart had them clearanced for $12.32 shipped, since they're also out of stock on Amazon, but they can be found on eBay. The other aspect I like about this pan is that is has the larger cutout which would lay very well onto the backplate [ O II ] of TK armor. You can see how tight Joseph was able to cinch this same cutout style in his Bavarian photo above, which I'm not sure would be possible with the Wedco. Midwest 9qt discovery, dimensions 20.5" x 13.25" x 5" Finally, here is the most bold of the two alternative options I'm looking at. Most obvious, from the photos, is that there is no built-in handle, so I'd have to afix my own. Two potential options are shown below, and considering the fact that two different types of handles are already approvable, it seems like these (especially the first one) should be too. Such and add-on would also be more game accurate, but of course, I need to stay within the confines of the CRL for continuity. The two features I particularly like is the large recession, similar to the Bavarian and GarageBoss are the large recess which would lay against my backplate, and the non-flat surfaces on the sides, also like the Bavarian. This pan would also be deeper than the Wedco, but not to the extent of the Bavarian. The height and width are a little more narrow, so I'll need to examine those aspects. Rick has some great diagrams of the existing options, and I'm very interested in hearing feedback on these two other oil pans I'm investigating. Purchase sources: Autoplicity, Farm&Fleet Top Left Button Box As much as I am tempted to build the button box to the game-used ratio relative to the middle tube, I will be sticking with the commonly-accepted Popit! storage boxes. I don't recall which thread I saw it in, but somebody had cut squares in the octagonal pace plate in which they set the buttons (Amazon) to add a little depth and the appearance of functional utility; I may consider this. Too bad I have to buy 35 buttons when I only need four, but then again it may be useful to have spares. I think I will screw them into the box top from underneath for added security. Middle Tube This one will be easy to source, since we already use these wipes here at home. I'll just need to sneak purchasing the smaller, 35-count and less cost-efficient, tubes next time. =) Vent Box No rocking the boat in this area either. Popit! box with hopefully very clean-cut vent covers. Uniformity will be mandatory. Radio Box I'm not yet sure how much time I want to spend on this section, but I really like what Devolver did with his, and I do plan on using the Michael's box as the base. I grabbed three of them in black clearanced for $1.99 USD (plus tax) each. I like the idea of depth, and the framing on the sides of the box, but I want to ensure I remain CRL approvable. I think I will also reinforce walls of the cardboard box by adding some extra framing on the inside. There is an off-chance I may look into using Radio Shack project boxes in the same fashion that Charles did. Bottom Right Box I'm going to look into two alternative methods to make this box, though I still plan on using the Popit! boxes. I really REALLY want to angle the front of this box down like Templar did, but I'm not sure if my GML would be ok with it. I wonder if it would help my cause that the CRL model himself wished he had done it? I'm also interested in Bradly's cutout method to pride more depth than a sheet cover would. I am considering making two versions of this box, in case I get denied during my first submission. Drop Siphon Funnel Since the siphon will be the lowest point of the pack, and perhaps also the least sturdy due to the rounded mounting surface, I've decided that I want to go with a rigid structure, rather than a handmade / rolled piece. I checked out both of Devolver's options at Walmart and went with the floral vase due to it's larger taper, and the shaker cup having flat edges on two sides. The vase is nearly nine inches tall, so I know I will need to shorten it to reach the required six inch height. I'm also considering Bradley's nalgene bottle top portion, since I have tons of those laying around, and I might even look into a screw-removable siphon, to protect it from damage when laying the pack down. Antenna Tube There's not much up to interpretation and deviance in this area, and my goal is to close the ends of the tubes with flat caps. I've seen some Troopers mention that the home improvement stores only had curved-top caps and that they found flat ones at Walmart, but thus far I've had no such luck. Do any of you have purchase links to such caps? I briefly considered investigating a latching attachment mechanism for the tube for removal in transit, but I don't think any space benefits will be worth the hassle. E-11 Mount This may, perhaps, be the most controversial aspect of this pack build. I LOVE the idea of mounting a Rubies blaster on the left side of the pack, but I definitely will not be doing so before submitting for approval. If I do eventually elect to implement such a mount, I will go with a very simple, removable design. Other notes: No, I will not be including the previously-accepted antenna on top. It looks cool, but I understand it is not game or CRL accurate. Yes, I will be utilizing a "less is more" approach to armor weathering, especially since I want it to be removable. Joseph will be proud to hear this, and that I purchased the makeup brush set in the photo above for $2.49 in Walmart's Christmas clearance section. Now I just need the dollar store eye shadow. I purchased a thin $0.88 cutting board at Walmart with the intention of reenforcing the bottom of the radio box, but I may end up getting more and use it to create the framing / paneling on the entire radio box. The cutting board also has a texture to it, which may look better on a weathered radio than smooth cardboard. I may also have a fellow SW enthusiast friend print me some of Kman's templates. Question for @justjoseph63 or @Templar726: Which specific sticky floor tiles from Lowes did you use for your box covers? Here is my ANH Stunt TK Build Thread which will document the armor to be used for my HWT. My plan is to build it to Level 3 specs, submit for 501st approval, attain Centurion status through FISD, then transition (at least temporarily through Joseph's temporary weathering technique and Charles' styling) to HWT and submit for approval. Wow. I think it took me sessions (squeezed between baby naps and diaper changes) over four days to hammer this out. Hopefully this compilation of links will be helpful to future builders! MV Edited April 19, 2021 by MaskedVengeance Added HWT build thread resource 4 Quote
magni[TK] Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 Great plan of attack Soldier Good to see another in the making. Don't give up on that oil pan you want. Bummer Bavarian closed. I have that pan from them. To help you search look up BMW oil drain pan. That's what my old receipt says its for. Also go for the angled box front. I did it. And the actual game one is angled. It got me to Centurion #5. Good Luck Future Heavy! Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 Holy crow, Caleb... looks like you have REALLY done your research! To answer your question about the floor tiles, just look for the ones that are smooth. Most have some sort of texture and a shiny finish, which will prohibit paint adhesion. The ones I used have a matte finish and sort of an "industrial" look. The antenna tube top/bottom really should be flat. I used the curved top PVC caps and cut the ends off , but be sure to push the caps securely onto the PVC pipe before cutting them. If you need a shoulder strap for the antenna tube, Mark from AP has them on sale right now. Being a bit OCD, one thing I did was to add covers (available at Lowe's) over the screw heads, which is very inexpensive to do and imo adds to a cleaner look. If it were me, I would use the Garage Boss 16 qt. size if you can get one I would also attach the straps on the inside of the ridge. Some folks use padded straps, but I went with 1" nylon, and they fit in between the shoulder straps/bells. While planning it, I figured the added weight of the pack would put undue pressure on the shoulder straps and could cause cracks, but many have had success with the padded type. For the pauldron, make sure it is the "puffy" style (1/2 inch thick or so). Some are really flat. Sporting a BFG is a cool aspect of being a HWT. If it is within your budget, I would strongly suggest one of Anthony's. I've see my share of T-21s here, but his are crazy accurate. Keep up the fantastic work, and I look forward to following your progress!!! Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 A solid start to your build, good luck Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted January 4, 2020 Report Posted January 4, 2020 This is going to be an awesome thread. If you need any pointers on the pack, let me know. Also, I do have 3D files you can use for the cone if you want. Quote
CrookKnight[TK] Posted January 4, 2020 Report Posted January 4, 2020 I also have extra Garage Boss oil pans is you need one or can point you in the right direction for one. Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted January 10, 2020 Author Report Posted January 10, 2020 OP Post #2 Thanks guys for the encouragement, kind words, and helpful insights! I'm perhaps as excited about this part of my Legion journey as my actual TK armor build! By the way, be forewarned that this post is picture-heavy, and is formatted to best display on the computer web browser view of this forum. So I did something bad—or not. One single GarageBOSS 16qt oil pan came back in stock for the clearance price at Walmart, so I purchased it... along with the normal 12.5pt version AND the Midwest handle-less pan. Now I can literally compare them all side-by-side, and as previously alluded to, I may simply make several versions of the pack with the three pans. Below are the comparison photos. Note that the pan without the handle (to be added later) is the Midwest, the one with the circle cutout is the mid-sized 12.5qt, and the largest one is the 16qt. The last two photos are with the smaller and larger pans laid with the standard mid-sized. I also found several more pull handle options to add to the Midwest pan (a need which makes it a more pricey option than the other pans), and purchased the SouthCo one from the Walmart marketplace since I believe it most resembles those in the Battlefront games. Below are some other handle links for reference. Note that several vendors sell what appear to be the same handle as the one I purchased, shown larger in this first image. Click on the later three photos for links to the purchase websites. Purchase links to the "boxy" handle above: Walmart | Grainger | Bisco | Zorro Moving on. I've been on a purchase spree this past week, and have ordered two sets of MP40 LEATHER pouches, an orange pauldron from Trooper1, two sets of Popit container sets, and the button box bumpers from Amazon. With help from several forum members I came to the conclusion that I'd need to resort to an international purchase for the leather MP40 pouches, and having had good experiences on Aliexpress in the past, I went that route. If all looks well when they arrive in three or so weeks I will post the seller and item link I used, and several (aka many) photos. As for the Popit boxes, I was literally about to click and finalize the purchase on Amazon when I thought I'd do one last google search and came across the Popit Shop website. Fortuitously, they had the 6 container stackit set in stock, priced cheaper than Amazon, and the new user coupon code "MYFIRSTPOPIT" netted me an additional 25% off and free shipping! A single set was going to be $14.99 shipped, so I decided to get two sets to give me a margin for error and to use on the extra backpacks I might make. I never knew I could be so excited about a food storage container manufacturer's website. Interestingly enough, my order arrived in two days via Amazon, so there must be a Popit / Amazon partnership. Before I get too much further and lose some readers — QUESTIONS! Which of the four largest Popit containers should be used? Based on Ukswrath's 2nd thread, it appears that the button panel should be the Xe 041 (6.6" x 4.75"), the vent panel the Xe 051 (8" x 5.6"), and the right arched panel the Xe 061 (9.1" x 6.6") container. If that's accurate, then I'd be using the first three boxes in the photo above, but with my plan to angle the front of the arched box, I may consider using the Xe 062 box—the fourth one in the photo—which has the same length and width dimensions, and is simply deeper/taller than the Xe 061. That extra depth with enable me to cut off the top and create a new angled surface. What are the preferred primer and paint brands and colors you all use for your backpacks? Always prime before main coat, correct? Any clear sealant on top of it all? I'm going with the 1" nylon for the backpack straps; what are your preferred purchase sources for the material? Radio bottle cap question; see notes several paragraphs below. Be prepared to overthink little plastic cylinders. To continue, I've also started a reference guide folder for my HWT build, and so far it contains printouts of the CRL and some reference guides and images. I will also be adding some backpack, T-21, and DLT-19 build threads and instructions. The OCD part of me has been pushing to find flat-topped 2" PVC end caps for the antenna tube, rather than cut off the rounded tops of some caps and leave the tube end open. Thus far my search has yielded the following, and I believe the last two are likely the same product (click the images to navigate to the purchase websites): Similarly, I've been pondering what type of caps to use as the knobs on the radio, and have secretly been eyeing all the caps on every type of vessel present in our house (shhh, don't tell my wife). At first I thought these small 16oz naglene bottle caps would be perfect, with their deep-grooved outer edge and the circular disc on top, but alas they are too wide at 2-5/8". Then I found these Dr. Brown's baby bottle caps in a three-pack for less than $3 shipped on Amazon, and they seem to fit the bill perfectly with the ridges on the outside and the recessed interior. I'll know whether or not they're the proper size ratio after I print out a radio box template. Cap dilemma continued after these first images. Ukswrath's thread says to use 2-1/4" caps, but Joseph's spec thread diagrams indicate that the height of the small window which houses each knob is only 2" tall, and that the knobs should be 1.5". I've seen in multiple threads the use of "milk caps," which I believe would be closer to 1.5" figure. Should I simply choose once I've laid out my framing template on the photo box? @justjoseph63 - It looks like you use something like this (also first photo below) in your CRL photo, correct? Here are some additional options I've found. Yes, I've spent far too much time researching bottle caps. Click the images for links to the purchase websites. Here are some additional items I've been collecting for my builds, including an excessive amount of black button bumper pads, the 35-count wipes container (the caps are now clear, not colored, so no green or yellow showing if the tube gets scratched!), and a nalgene hopefully for the top portion of the siphon funnel. I have so many old bottles needing new purpose in life. Time to serve the Empire. Finally, as far as purchases go, I jumped on these spare ABS parts for this build. Specifically I got the main belt (for a dedicated HWT) and the shoulder bridges to use on the antenna tube. I know I'll need to make three buttons for the belt, so I had Mark send me some ABS scraps which I will use to fashion into buttons. My plan is to use @Cricket's Step 1 procedure on her magnetic calf closures thread to create the raised round area on the square cutouts. Can anybody tell me the dimensions of the square and round portions? If not, worst case I measure the ones which will arrive with my ATA armor. I've also been browsing old HWT pre-approval, EIB, and Centurion request threads, and I've been quite shocked at the lack of consistency which existed a decade ago. Most of the builds appeared to be Sandie packs, and Troopers seemed to have different interpretations and a lot of latitude. No wonder the DOs created the General Guide for packs and updated the pack CRL. Here are some of the more recent threads which I poured over: Charles (Templar726) | Tony (ukswrath) | Shawn (CrookKnight) Dave (PBTrooper) | Derek (DZFireMedic) | Jim (Engineering trooper) Sarah (Alay) | Christopher (Chewy) | Randy (magni) For your viewing pleasure, here is one of the old, non-standard, crazy ones: JBOD70 3D Printing So I have a friend who has the ability to print in PLA, but I don't think it will be realistic to utilize that route, so I'm wondering if Shapeways might be a good solution for any random 3D printing I may need, particularly related to my BFG scratch builds. I know a lot Troopers on here have your own printers, but can anybody speak to their experiences using Shapeways or other 3D print services? To conclude, I guess I need to go to Home Depot to pick up some power conver... I mean, this stuff: 2" antenna tube (24") Nibco 2" PVC hub caps Black sticky floor tiles pine lumber for T-21 and DLT-19 scratch builds PVC pipes, adapters, and connections for blaster builds PVC for my thermal detonator (no, I will not wear this as a HWT) There were several other sections I wanted to add to this thread, but it's lengthy enough already. So until next time, heavies, take care. Quote Responses: On 1/1/2020 at 6:48 AM, magni said: Don't give up on that oil pan you want. Bummer Bavarian closed. I have that pan from them. To help you search look up BMW oil drain pan. That's what my old receipt says its for. Also go for the angled box front. I did it. And the actual game one is angled. Randy - I'm definitely going to make the angled arch box, and if my GLM frowns upon it I'll spin up a backup box, which I may make from the get-go anyway. I had already looked BMW and other German and UK vehicle plan, to no avail. With the pans being such a disposable item, even ECS Tuning, who took over brand legacy for BavAuto doesn't have them. I probably could have searched deeper into Euro options, but I figure that shipping might be a bit prohibitive to the US. On 1/1/2020 at 7:52 AM, justjoseph63 said: To answer your question about the floor tiles, just look for the ones that are smooth. Most have some sort of texture and a shiny finish, which will prohibit paint adhesion. The ones I used have a matte finish and sort of an "industrial" look. The antenna tube top/bottom really should be flat. I used the curved top PVC caps and cut the ends off , but be sure to push the caps securely onto the PVC pipe before cutting them. If you need a shoulder strap for the antenna tube, Mark from AP has them on sale right now. Being a bit OCD, one thing I did was to add covers (available at Lowe's) over the screw heads, which is very inexpensive to do and imo adds to a cleaner look. If it were me, I would use the Garage Boss 16 qt. size if you can get one I would also attach the straps on the inside of the ridge. Some folks use padded straps, but I went with 1" nylon, and they fit in between the shoulder straps/bells. While planning it, I figured the added weight of the pack would put undue pressure on the shoulder straps and could cause cracks, but many have had success with the padded type. For the pauldron, make sure it is the "puffy" style (1/2 inch thick or so). Some are really flat. Sporting a BFG is a cool aspect of being a HWT. If it is within your budget, I would strongly suggest one of Anthony's. I've see my share of T-21s here, but his are crazy accurate. Joseph - Thanks for the tip on the floor tiles. I will also be experimenting with cheap cutting boards for protecting the photo box. I also like your idea for the placement of the straps in the recess of the oil pan, and I'll definitely be getting screw head covers. Thanks, too, for pointing me to Anthony's T-21s. Those are a bit out of my price range, but I may see if he'll sell me just some of the cast parts. On 1/4/2020 at 10:52 AM, CrookKnight said: This is going to be an awesome thread. If you need any pointers on the pack, let me know. Also, I do have 3D files you can use for the cone if you want. Shawn - If my floral vase cone doesn't work, I may take you up on your 3D print template offer. Thanks! 3 Quote
magni[TK] Posted January 10, 2020 Report Posted January 10, 2020 Wow! That is some research! Bummer about the pan lead for you. Shows how times and parts change quickly nowadays. It's been 5 yrs. So..... For my radio knobs I used 1 gallon plastic jug caps. Free with beverage. Perfect size and ridges around the edge. IIRC I thought it was shown that the arched paneled box is angled. As for the pack you highlighted, yeah. Um things were loose and got loose back then. But we tight now. For the record. The no video monitors add is because of me. It's in my radio. Check my EIB application. Can't even tell it's a screen when off. Good Luck! Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted February 19, 2020 Author Report Posted February 19, 2020 OP Post #3 I'm back! After a month of absence (from posting), I finally have an update. I'm sill waiting on my TK armor to arrive, and have also been preoccupied with other aspects of life, but I've been making slow progress with some of HWT components. First up, the pack. Those of you following along will recall that I purchased three different oil drums to test out for the backpack, and I've been really hoping that the Midwest one would work out. It has a larger depth than the most-used 12.5qt Wedco/GarageBOSS, but is more narrow and shorter. The Midwest has more detailed/unique sidewalls, which I believe better mimic the Battlefront packs, but in the end, I think the pan is simply too narrow, as the photos below show. I could probably overcome the shortness, but short of cutting the pan in half and widening it with filler, I don't think I could make the Midwest work. Perhaps with properly-ratio-adjusted boxes on the back I could build a slightly down-scaled version for petite troopers or youth. Now on to some other plastic parts. It turns out that the Dr. Browns narrow baby bottle caps I purchased on Amazon are the perfect size, at 1.5 inches! And they have ribbing on the outside and the inner circle (a recession). And with Prime shipping they're cheaper than buying even a single gallon of milk! The Nibco 2" PVC end caps I purchased at Home Depot are also perfect, with their flat tops and 1" height. At $3.20 USD each they are perhaps just a little more expensive than rounded caps or couplers, both of which would need to be trimmed. To me, the extra couple of dollars is worth it. I'll just need to sand down the lettering and notch. And here are the MP40 pouches with finally arrived from China. My photos aren't great because I took them in incorrect lighting, but I think they still give an accurate depiction of the quality. I purchased two pairs for a total of $87 shipped via Aliexpress, after applying several coupons acquired through Aliexpress' coin system. The particular seller I purchased from didn't have any reviews of the actual pouch item I purchased, but I took a gamble knowing that I could get my money back through Aliexpress' escrow system if I wasn't satisfied, and these were the cheapest leather ones I could find anywhere on the web. Of course I will be using a G2 pen and fine point sharpie to color in the white stitching. I've also decided that I'm going to have a separate belt which I use for my HWT, so that I don't have to reconfigure my ANH belt each time I want to troop. This way, I won't need to remove the drop boxes and holster, and add the pouches. I received the spare ABS belt and shoulder bridge parts from Mark (AP), and will soon be affixing a bridge piece to the HWT tube. I intend to utilize hot water, E-6000, and thick produce rubber bands for that task. As previously mentioned, I will also be using Cricket's Step 1 procedure on her magnetic calf closures thread to create the raised round area on the square belt buttons which I will cut from spare sheet ABS. Moving on to an area of a HWT that isn't actually required, but really it is. T-21 baby! After all, isn't a BFG (and an orange pauldron) the real reason we go HWT?! It has previously been suggested that I reach out to Anthony (Blaster 8266) about his ready-made T-21s (sale thread), but alas they are out of my price range. So instead I plan to scratch build one, or try to get my hands on some of spOOL68's resin parts. Roger doesn't produce them anymore, due to dried up interest, so if any of you have the pieces laying around collecting dust, let me know and I'll take them off your hands! Armed with Panda's large-scale printout and Jax Malachor's Technical Drawing Plans (PDF) and build thread (MEPD), I've now purchased some pine board and hope to begin sawing and sanding soon! Other T-21 References and Resources: spOOL68 build | pandatrooper build | FarEast build | 11b30b4 build v1 | 11b30b4 build v2 MEPD | Cricket EVA build | TK3199 Wordpress If any of you T-21 builders have other resources that you think would be helpful, including your own build threads, feel free to send them my way! @justjoseph63 - I recall you mentioning somewhere that windshield washer tubing works great for the ribbing, but do you have a purchase link or tube dimensions? I think I've seen one before, but I can't find it at the moment. I suppose that is all for now. For anybody wanting an update on my OT TK build, here's the link: Quote responses: On 1/10/2020 at 6:52 PM, magni said: As for the pack you highlighted, yeah. Um things were loose and got loose back then. But we tight now. For the record. The no video monitors add is because of me. It's in my radio. Check my EIB application. Can't even tell it's a screen when off. Randy - I definitely think you should have bragging rights for that screen. I had actually seen your pack in threads and never even noticed that it was a screen. Brilliant! 2 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted February 20, 2020 Report Posted February 20, 2020 For the windshield washer tubing, I went to an auto supply store and bought it "by the foot" from a roll. The circumference of the barrel is about 12 inches, and I added 14 rings, plus, you will need a section to go on the sides/top. I cut mine into actual lengths and used CA glue to hold each one on. (Hint: lightly sand and clean them thoroughly first for the best adhesion). The width of the tubing is about 1/4 inch. (Don't forget the blue wire on top). Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted March 21, 2020 Author Report Posted March 21, 2020 OP Post #4 Progress continues slowly, and since my last post has consisted primarily of the acquisition of components for my HWT build. BBB day came a couple weeks ago, and you can see my full post with armor unboxing photos on my ANH Stunt thread. Here is a preview! I also had a medium brown box day with the delivery of my orange pauldron from Trooper1 (Jay), and it is gorgeous! Seems a bit of a shame to have to dirty it up a bit for my heavy. Pics incoming. I also completed inking all the white threading on my MP40 pouches black with a Pilot G2 1.0-size black pen, which I already had at the house. It was very tedious, and for some reason I found it appropriate to have some WWII TV documentaries playing in the background. It was cool to see some MG-34s in action! The photos below don't do my thread paint job justice, as some of the lighting and texture differences with the leather make the threads still appear to be white. I also want on a paint binge and purchased many shades of black and gray to use on my T-21 and DLT-19 builds, when that time comes. Social distancing may make supply runs difficult, and potential shelter-in-place orders could even make it impossible. I've also acquired gloss white (for TK rivet heads), Model Master 1923 Gunship Gray, and some Rust-oluem gray primer and black. I'm not really sure why I got the Testors thinner, since I already have Gamblin Gamsol mineral spirits, but I suppose I could use it on non-ABS areas. At some point I suspect I will create dedicated threads for my T-21 and DLT-19 builds, but for now I'll leave that related content on this thread, since I haven't made much progress yet. I do have a couple questions for those of you with blaster build experience: Does the ACT cap (shown below) appear to be the correct proportion for the PVC bunting I purchased? I opted for the "smaller" sized bottle since I saw that mentioned on another thread, but it wasn't clear what the exact bottle oz size was, or the dimensions of the flash suppressor itself. Is there a way to coat a thick paper/cardboard tube to provide it with moisture protection? The tub itself is already very strong, but I would worry about it losing form if rained on. I'm asking because the outer diameter of the tube more closely matches the the size of the reduced T-21 barrel than standard 2.5" conduit or the vacuum tube extension wand. See the comparison below. Finally, just another T-21 component I acquired--the phone line cable. I still need to find some blue wire, so any suggestions for the proper gauge would be helpful. Thanks, Joseph, for your automotive windshield washer tubing suggestion in your post above. Hopefully I'll have more updates soon, especially if I'm kept home from work during these uncertain times. Stay safe, heavies. 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted March 21, 2020 Report Posted March 21, 2020 For the barrel reduction I would go with the closest to 3" that you can find, as using 2.5" may make the end product look a bit off. It may take me a few days, but I can get the blue wire for you (no charge), just shoot me your shipping info. via PM Quote
Blast 'Em! Posted June 2, 2020 Report Posted June 2, 2020 Caleb, great call on sourcing the MP40 pouches from AliExpress. I followed your lead and purchased those same pouches. I tested a sharpie on the stitching and wasn't a fan of the purplish hue, so I also went with using a pen to color the stitching. Holy cow is that a process, you're a trooper for knocking that all out in one go. I did the stitching on one pouch a week ago but I'm finding that I can still wipe ink off the leather surrounding the stitching. Did you encounter anything similar? I've been trying to wipe the excess ink off with paper towels, but again it's taking awhile. It seems that building white armor forces you to adopt the patience of a monk whether you like it or not Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted June 2, 2020 Author Report Posted June 2, 2020 13 hours ago, Blast 'Em! said: I did the stitching on one pouch a week ago but I'm finding that I can still wipe ink off the leather surrounding the stitching. Did you encounter anything similar? I've been trying to wipe the excess ink off with paper towels, but again it's taking awhile. It seems that building white armor forces you to adopt the patience of a monk whether you like it or not Yeah Shane - Armor building is a test of patience, for sure. When I was using my black G-2 pen on the threading I was very careful to stay only on the threads. However, if I did over-ink, I immediately wiped the excess off with my fingers. There were actually a couple grey sharpie cut line marks left on the leather from the crafting process, which I colored over with my black pen (and rubbed the ink around to diffuse it). Needless to say, my fingers were definitely black when it was all said and done. I suspect the pressure, and perhaps even heat, from using my fingers resulted in better cleanup then paper towels might have. My pouches have now been sitting untouched for 2-3 months, so maybe I should check them again; surely the ink is completely dried by now. I don't recall if I colored the threading on the back of the pouches or not, since they wouldn't really be seen (except possibly the shoulder pouch), but I definitely wouldn't want any ink to rub off onto my armor. I'll want all my weathering to be washable, so I can switch between shiny TK and battle-worn HWT. 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted June 2, 2020 Report Posted June 2, 2020 Don't worry about the threads on the back of the ammo packs, as they are not seen Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted June 3, 2020 Author Report Posted June 3, 2020 Don't worry about the threads on the back of the ammo packs, as they are not seenBut we all know that Joseph and his OCD inclinations definitely colored in the threading on the back anyway. But I’m the same way myself, too. ;-) In fact, I checked my pouches this evening and was horrified to see that I didn’t do the backs of them. Maybe next time I’m watching a movie...Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted June 3, 2020 Report Posted June 3, 2020 7 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said: But we all know that Joseph and his OCD inclinations definitely colored in the threading on the back anyway OCD inclinations? Me? (Well, maybe just a bit), 1 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted June 8, 2020 Author Report Posted June 8, 2020 OP Post #7 This may go down as my shortest build thread update post ever on FISD. In reality, it's not even an update. Basically I was just anxious to get a peak of what I will sorta eventually look like. For those of you not following along, my ANH Stunt build has been progressing slowly, so basically everything in the photo below is wrong. Black Series helmet, only one rough-trimmed bell, no biceps. And of course I didn't even attach my shoulder ammo pouch, as I really just wanted to see what the pauldron would look like. I'm probably only embarrassing myself by posting this frankensteined image. But alas, these threads aren't about perfection. So here's my good, bad, and the ugly. I have a bad feeling about this... Maybe next time I'll at least add the biceps and shoulder ammo pouch so I don't get featured on the Homemade Costumes thread. Hey, everybody needs to hear/see a good joke sometimes. So laugh it up, fuzzballs. 1 Quote
ticopowell[TK] Posted July 9, 2020 Report Posted July 9, 2020 Looks better than my HWT... mainly because I don't have one :D. I might do that sometime because it's a 2fer, add a few things to my TK and boom, I have 2 costumes! 1 Quote
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