TheRascalKing[TK] Posted January 9, 2020 Report Posted January 9, 2020 4 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said: Justin - Thanks for your pointers! I've seen the discussion about whether to always wear the rubber gloves, but I'm starting to lean towards trooping in alternatives such as the Amazon ones you posted, or nomex. I will definitely jump on the heavier 8oz holster, and will look again into Uksrath's cooling systems. I honestly think this will be the only armor build I every do, so interchangeability won't be important to me. Darman neck seal it is then, with the zipper. I believe I have an average neck height, and since his seal is already taller in the back anyway, should I even worry about ordering the taller version? What about the bib style—smaller stunt or larger premium? When I do my shins I'll definitely make sure to plan for the fact that they will be opened and closed repeatedly. I'm also already planning on inner cover strips. Finally, really no worries with the strapping kit. Definitely make sure mine is the last one of the run you finish since I am in no hurry, especially with my armor slated for a late February or early March delivery. I won't need them before then anyway, so take your time and heal up! I've seen guys take the rubber gloves off at troops and literally turn them upside down and pour sweat out of them, hence my words of caution hahaha Definitely for Centurion, definitely not for trooping, imo. Fans are totally up to you, just make sure you have good airflow so you don't fog up - that's the main thing. I definitely prefer the zipper and it's easier to put on correctly by yourself over the velcro. You're probably good on the extra ribs, but worth mentioning after having owned a couple. If you find you'd like it to be taller, he was actually really good about exchanging one for me at no charge as well. I prefer the larger premium one, mostly because the bib is one piece instead of being split in two under the zipper and I feel like it lays a little nicer, and can always be trimmed down. I eventually might get bored and sew in some velcro on the front and back (and on my undersuit shirt) to reeeeeally keep it flush and centered under my armor. 100% on the inner cover strips - they make assembly so much easier when you start with them, and will add strength. Trooperbay has sheets of white ABS for sale that you can chop up, or be careful when you cut and you can probably use trimmings from your suit as well in case Terrell doesn't include a ton of extra ABS. Thanks again man! I made good progress last night on kits and am on the mend. Getting PET scanned tomorrow to see if I need more chemo or not, so fingers crossed for more good news! Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted January 9, 2020 Report Posted January 9, 2020 I always wear rubber gloves with cotton gloves and there’s no sweat pouring out, sure you get warm but that goes for the entire suit. I want to Troop as I was approved - A Centurion - This is the way, I have spoken. But...everyone do as they please of course And Justin, hoping all goes well tomorrow. 5 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted January 9, 2020 Report Posted January 9, 2020 ^^^This^^^ Rubber gloves with cotton inners, I use a couple of pairs during a long troop as they do get sweaty 2 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted February 19, 2020 Author Report Posted February 19, 2020 (edited) OP (MV) Post #11 Well folks, it's been a minute since I last posted. Work has been crazy, medical concerns with my infant, and home improvement projects. Now back to armor improvement, or rather, construction. Well, sorta, as you'll see. Perhaps the most significant update is that I received my TK strap system from @TheRascalKing. I figured I would enlist the expertise and service of a seasoned TK veteran and purchase a kit, rather than make my own [mistakes]. The double snap strapping items I received are shown below, but keep in mind that Justin offers several options, so this is simply what I selected. He has kits which contain both more, and less. Throughout the process Justin was great about communicating updates, and unless I were to decide to make my own, if I ever needed another kit I would go straight to him again! If you remember, keep Justin in your thoughts and prayers, as he has been battling cancer. Additionally, not too long ago I received this box in the mail. Yes, it was ABS, but no not my white TK armor. Just another one of my distractions while I wait for my ATA kit to arrive—a 3D printed black ABS Shoretrooper helmet from Christine (Cricket)! She had scaled it too small for her to wear so I thought I'd snag it to get some practice at finishing props and use it as a display (probably at work). Some additional photos may pop up later on this build thread, but I'll try to keep things mostly on-topic for this TK build thread. Speaking of 3D printing and distractions, I sold my drone and purchased a second-hand new-in-box Ender 3 Pro printer to use for some TK props (DLT-19 and E-11s). The cash from my drone sale greatly exceeded the cost of the printer, and I'll be able to cover the cost of my armor with the remainder. Now just to unpack and assemble the printer, choose some PETG and/or ABS filament (once I build an enclosure), and time to start practicing! And not that I need so many E-11s, but I grabbed these two Rubies blasters on eBay for $24 shipped which I will be refinishing with more accurate features, in a manner similar to artimorty (thread) and happytrooper (thread). I figured it never hurts to have backup, and I'm sure my 8-year-old nephews will love "playing" with them too. When I crunched the numbers, the seller I bought them both from only netted $8-9 from the sale once shipping, ebay, and Paypal fees were accounted for. That does not include the up front cost that the seller would have initially purchased them for, so great deal for me—maybe not so much for them. Since I'm apparently a glutton for distractions, and am probably stretching myself thing, I've also begin the initial steps of scratch building a DLT-19. Here are the first components purchased for the build, and I'll likely be starting a dedicated thread in the weapons locker forum. I'm starting on the barrel and muzzle, and will be taking inspiration from the following threads: Astyanax | rl180 | HappyTrooperDotCom Now for a soft goods update. I've already picked out all the soft goods I'll be purchasing for my TK, and the only thing keeping me from pulling the trigger with Darman and Kittle is the money. I think I may ask my wife for some Etsy gift cards for my birthday in several months. I also purchased a super cheap 2-pack of balaclavas on Amazon, but I haven't even opened them to check the quality. I suspect they'll be pretty bad at that price-point, and I'm not even really sure if I'd want to wear one anyway. I also dug out my old black cotton marching band gloves from high school, to potentially wear under centurion-level rubber gloves. Sure, I could purchase some for less than $10 on Amazon, but I thought it would be kinda neat to recycle the ones from my marching band years for use during troop marching. As usual, here is my obligatory non-build Star Wars-related content. One of my young nephews recently had a birthday party which was partially Star Wars themed, and while I expected all the children to receive party favors, I was surprised to get one myself. My sister-in-law must think I'm a kid at heart. She might be right. First is the Leia doll which my baby daughter received (from Galaxy's Edge), followed by my mini lego set. I think I'll display it with my Lego Microfighters. For those of you interested, I've also just posted an update on my HWT build thread, linked below. I've made a bit more progress on that front since there's the backpack, pouches, and T-21 which I have been able to occupy myself with while I wait for my ATA armor to arrive. Until next time, as Stephen A. would say, peace and love. Edited February 28, 2022 by MaskedVengeance Typos; photo width reformatting 2 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted March 4, 2020 Author Report Posted March 4, 2020 (edited) GUYS. THERE IS A STORMTROOPER AT MY DOOR! I might need to leave work early to let him in. Obviously, to be continued... Edited March 4, 2020 by MaskedVengeance Photo format 5 Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 2 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said: GUYS. THERE IS A STORMTROOPER AT MY DOOR! Congratulations !! We all FISD are happy for you!! looking forward for your unboxing !!! Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 4, 2020 Report Posted March 4, 2020 Great news, can't wait for the excited unpacking, then the sheer horror of "where do I start" 3 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted March 6, 2020 Author Report Posted March 6, 2020 (edited) OP (MV) Post #13: BBB DAY ARRIVED YESTERDAY! Unboxing and obligatory laid out photos incoming. Yes, I'm wearing rebel scum "It's a trap" socks. Note that, as is the case with all my photos posted on FISD, they may appear a bit fuzzy embedded in posts due to poor web and forum compression. Clicking on each image will open them in a high resolution format for maximum clarity. Initial thoughts. These pieces are larger and more firm than I was expecting. Of course that will change a bit once I trim them and remove many of the return edges. Now where to start. I'm not sure I want to tackle the helmet first since that's such a prominent piece with tiny details. Perhaps I will go with taking off the return edges on the wrist side of the forearms, since that will be a requirement for level three. Are there any other suggestions for starting points? Perhaps the chest, back, or ab pieces? I tried to lay the pieces out in the fashion I expect them to be upon assembly, but the shins were the only ones labeled, so I may have gotten some of it wrong. Am I correct in understanding that the biceps (both with thumbprints) and forearms are interchangeable? If I recall correctly, the shoulder bells are to have the swoosh facing forward, correct? I believe the left side thighs are also intended to be a little shorter than the right, to accommodate the sniper plate, but please correct me if that's not the case. That's all for now. The journey is finally getting real! Edited February 28, 2022 by MaskedVengeance Photo resolution disclaimer; photo width reformatting 2 Quote
Frank75139[501st] Posted March 6, 2020 Report Posted March 6, 2020 Let the fun begin!!!!And if your wondering I started with the biceps, they are small and most of it is hidden under the shoulder so if it’s not 100% it’s not noticeable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted March 6, 2020 Report Posted March 6, 2020 8 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said: Are there any other suggestions for starting points? Perhaps the chest, back, or ab pieces? Great mate!! My ABC of building an Armor is usually : 1- Trimming and sanding all pieces 2- Taping Biceps, forearms , thighs and shins with painters tape to adjust size. (trimming again where necessary) 3- Cutting and gluing cover strips 4- Snaps 5 -Straps, pre assembly 6- 1st try with inner black clothes 7- Final Adjustment I would suggest to check out the ATA building threads to take and idea of what to expect and see what questions have been answered already and the following return edges post that can be so useful. Here is an ATA building thread that you can check. Good luck and looking forward for your advances. Cheers 3 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted March 6, 2020 Report Posted March 6, 2020 Awesome news, ATA armor is a lot thicker than most, I found I had to use a Dremel to trim (actually I use 3 of them as I hate swapping tips) cutting disc, drum sander and a cutting bit, makes life a lot easier. Once you've trimmed your first piece you'll realise how easy the rest of the process will be. Make sure you check the "Gallery Section" for references when trimming. Good luck 1 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted March 17, 2020 Author Report Posted March 17, 2020 (edited) OP (MV) Post #14 Well, it's been a crazy two weeks since my last post, to say the least. Local schools have closed and the College (University) I work at has transitioned to distance online learning for the remainder of the term. It's hard to know if these changes to life due to COVID-19 will result in me having more time to work on my build, or less, but either way I've been attempting to collect the last couple of supplies needed for the project so I can minimize shopping in the near future. Social distancing. Weird times. With both my builds (my HWT being the other), I've been posting photos of my collected supplies for two reasons. One, to enable experienced builders to provide feedback on the items, and two, so that future buildings can have a visual representation (along with purchase links) of the exact items they may need to purchase themselves. First up, gloves and lexan scissors. The 3M chemical gloves came from Lowes, while the straight and curved scissors were from Amazon. Has anybody had any experience with the MPI Maxx Products curved scissors? They were supposed to be the Excel brand, but the seller shipped me these instead, so I'm wondering if I should give them a go or return them. I've also just received my 8oz E-11 holster and neck seal from Darman today, and will have photos of those up by the weekend. 120 magnets, yes you heard that right, are also in-hand. Joseph recommended at least ten (10) large discs on his supply list and Magnets 101 thread, so I got 20 of them plus 50-packs of the smaller ones recommended by Christine (Cricket) for her shin closure design. I also have needle files, mineral spirits, and acetone in the mail. @justjoseph63 - Can you send me a purchase link to the "Sandblaster Pro Flexible silicone sanding sheets from 3M" which you recommend on your Supply List? I'm not sure if what I'm finding is correct; perhaps it's no longer sold any more. Stay safe and healthy, friends. Edited February 28, 2022 by MaskedVengeance previous post link added; photo width reformatting 2 Quote
TheRascalKing[TK] Posted March 18, 2020 Report Posted March 18, 2020 (edited) I have no idea what brand mine are, but having a pair or straight and a pair of curved-blade lexan scissors definitely helps get in all the tight spots. Plus maybe a large pair of like tin-snips for the straight-aways/long cuts. A plastic cutting wheel in your Dremel works wonders too. I usually rough cut with the cutoff wheel or tin snips, tighten my cuts on the belt sander if it's available (or Dremel sanding wheel/lexan scissors if not), then final shape using an aggressive sandpaper (or sanding block/sponge - they work GREAT for ensuring straight, smooth lines - like a 80 grit for actually removing material and a 200 or so for smoothing out gauge lines). Brand isn't important and you can get way cheaper sandpaper/blocks off Amazon than the 3M brand... they're essentially disposable after a while anyways. Magnets are your best friend, just be SUPER careful with them. You want the extremely high-pull neodymium ones, in about the 18mmx3mm size - just right for coverstrips. They can JUMP almost 18" to clatter together and explode, as well as pinch and give you gnarly blood blisters. Be careful. Slide them apart and clean any excess E6000 off before stacking them again. The more you have though, the more you can build at once! I usually use spring clamps on the ends, and magnets every 2" or so (try to alternate the polarities as you place them so they aren't tempted to jump together. Lay them out spaced apart and add them slowly). Use blue tape or additional stacked magnets for areas that don't want to stay. I also recommend an 18" metal ruler - you can lay it against the cut line you want to make, then use magnets on the backside of the armor to hold it in place! This will give you super straight cuts to shoot for, and will make all your pieces line up better during assembly. Darman is top notch stuff, I'm sure you'll be happy with them! Hope some of those thoughts help! Edited March 19, 2020 by TheRascalKing 1 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted March 20, 2020 Author Report Posted March 20, 2020 (edited) OP (MV) Post #15 Another update folks, with some questions and photos. First some questions, so they don't get buried later in this post. TK frown mesh/screen. Is there a particular mesh pattern or size which is most appropriate for Centurion approval? Must it only be a single layer, or can it be doubled, and if so, would there be any benefit? If there's aren't any restrictions I'll likely just pick some up at a hardware or home improvement store, rather than at Trooperbay (product). What black paint finish should be used for the mic tips? Should it be a gloss, semi gloss, or matte? The same as the vocoder? In regards to the vocoder, I've seen that it should be a semi gloss black, but my local craft stores only have Testors in gloss (not semi). Does semi actually exist, and if so, must I use that instead of gloss? Finally, respiration PPE (personal protective equipment). When sanding ABS is it important to wear a respirator or mask of some sort? I had planned on purchasing a 3M respirator but alas those are now hard to come by. Would a simple shop/mowing mask suffice? I have a stockpile of these Walmart "Hyper Tough" masks from lawn mowing. Now finally on to the photos. As previously mentioned, I received my holster and neck seal from Darman this week. I got the heavier 8oz holster which is quite firm, and will require some breaking in for use with my Hellhounds rubber blaster. If I end up trooping with a DLT-19 instead I may just use a modified rubies blaster in the holster and semi dual-wield like the Death Star scene (I forget if it was Han or Luke when they were approaching the detention block elevator). The neck seal also seems very nice, and I opted for the larger bib for ease of tucking into my undersuit. I simply noted my neck circumference (15.5") and Darman size it to fit me comfortably! I'm sure I'll eventually get the hang of setting and pulling the zipper, but for now my strategy has been to put in on backwards so I can see the zipper, then swivel it around once zipped. Are wearing it some more I'm sure the neck area will adopt a more rounded shape, after having been flattened inside the holster in the shipping package. Finally, on to the 120 magnets I purchased. Per Joseph's Magnet 101 recommendation, I purchased 20 of the N40 7/8" x 1/8" disc magnets for general armor application. I also purchased 50 of the N52 12mm x 3mm disc and 50 of the ring magnets which Christine recommends for her magnetic shin closure design. I figure I can use the extra ring magnets for thinner and tighter areas of the armor some as arm pieces, and the cost difference between purchasing 25 and 50 was insignificant. I plan on making sachets for the magnets to protect them and the armor, and for ease of use. On 3/18/2020 at 11:04 AM, TheRascalKing said: A plastic cutting wheel in your Dremel works wonders too. I usually rough cut with the cutoff wheel or tin snips, tighten my cuts on the belt sander if it's available (or Dremel sanding wheel/lexan scissors if not), then final shape using an aggressive sandpaper (or sanding block/sponge - they work GREAT for ensuring straight, smooth lines - like a 80 grit for actually removing material and a 200 or so for smoothing out gauge lines). Brand isn't important and you can get way cheaper sandpaper/blocks off Amazon than the 3M brand... they're essentially disposable after a while anyways. Magnets are your best friend, just be SUPER careful with them. You want the extremely high-pull neodymium ones, in about the 18mmx3mm size - just right for coverstrips. They can JUMP almost 18" to clatter together and explode, as well as pinch and give you gnarly blood blisters. Be careful. Slide them apart and clean any excess E6000 off before stacking them again. The more you have though, the more you can build at once! I usually use spring clamps on the ends, and magnets every 2" or so I also recommend an 18" metal ruler - you can lay it against the cut line you want to make, then use magnets on the backside of the armor to hold it in place! This will give you super straight cuts to shoot for, and will make all your pieces line up better during assembly. Thanks for these tips, Justin! Your cutting and sanding strategy is pretty similar to what I'm planning on, although I don't have any tin snips or a belt sander, although I have considered purchasing the latter to use on some woodworking projects. I figure I could probably just clamp a sheet of sandpaper to a flat table surface and rub the straight armor piece on top of it, similar to this shoulder bridge strategy. As for some metal rulers... I'm all over that. As an art/engineering student in College I wanted nothing to do with plastic or wooden rulers, so I have an entire metal collection ranging from six inches to a yard, some cork-backed and others not. I'm definitely going to try out the magnet/ruler technique! Edited February 28, 2022 by MaskedVengeance photo width reformatting Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted March 20, 2020 Report Posted March 20, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said: (...) TK frown mesh/screen. Is there a particular mesh pattern or size which is most appropriate for Centurion approval? Must it only be a single layer, or can it be doubled, and if so, would there be any benefit? (...) As far as I know, you could use leftover pieces from a fly screen (if available). Depending on the width of the mesh you can use two or three layers. 3 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said: Finally, respiration PPE (personal protective equipment). When sanding ABS is it important to wear a respirator or mask of some sort? I had planned on purchasing a 3M respirator but alas those are now hard to come by. Would a simple shop/mowing mask suffice? I have a stockpile of these Walmart "Hyper Tough" masks from lawn mowing. Depends on the sanding. Low grits cause 'bigger' flakes that just trickle to the ground. Fine grits cause smaller flakes with the danger of inhaling them. Long story short: use that mask. Edited March 20, 2020 by T-Jay Quote
Cricket[TK] Posted March 20, 2020 Report Posted March 20, 2020 (edited) Hey Caleb! About that mesh, you can find it at Joann's by the yard in the fabric section. It's called "pet screening". I think I bought 1/8 of a yard, and it was ridiculous cheap. They deliver, so that might be an option for you. I would send you some, but I have no idea where my extra mesh ended up going (it was a while ago). Home Depot tends to sell it as well, but you'll have to buy much more than you'll ever need for a helmet! I know Diana (in our garrison) had a ton of it at the armor party last month that she was giving away. Try contacting her on FB. I know she'll send some to you (she is extremely generous and has a huge heart, BTW). And about those shin magnets, I ended up not using/replacing all of the ring magnets on my shins. They didn't like to hold as well. Use the solid ones and save yourself a step. I agree with Tino about wearing something when sanding ABS. Even if all you have is a bandanna. PPE for your eyes is also recommended. You'd be surprised at how much ABS flings itself around when sanding! Oh! And don't forget to soak your holster to stretch it out for your blaster! It makes a world of difference. Your goal is to be able to holster and de-holster your blaster while in kit with your helmet on without any assistance. I spray mine from time to time with holster lubricant for ease of holstering. It's snug in there, so no rebel scum can remove it without me noticing, but it's loose enough to take out on my own. Makes carrying around my blaster at long troops a non-issue. Edited March 20, 2020 by Cricket 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted March 20, 2020 Report Posted March 20, 2020 5 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said: TK frown mesh/screen. Is there a particular mesh pattern or size which is most appropriate for Centurion approval? Must it only be a single layer, or can it be doubled I have always used plain black fiberglass window screen, Caleb. I can hook you up with some for free if you like, just shoot me a PM with your shipping info. 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 20, 2020 Report Posted March 20, 2020 7 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said: OP (MV) Post #15 Another update folks, with some questions and photos. First some questions, so they don't get buried later in this post. TK frown mesh/screen. Is there a particular mesh pattern or size which is most appropriate for Centurion approval? Must it only be a single layer, or can it be doubled, and if so, would there be any benefit? If there's aren't any restrictions I'll likely just pick some up at a hardware or home improvement store, rather than at Trooperbay (product). What black paint finish should be used for the mic tips? Should it be a gloss, semi gloss, or matte? The same as the vocoder? In regards to the vocoder, I've seen that it should be a semi gloss black, but my local craft stores only have Testors in gloss (not semi). Does semi actually exist, and if so, must I use that instead of gloss? Finally, respiration PPE (personal protective equipment). When sanding ABS is it important to wear a respirator or mask of some sort? I had planned on purchasing a 3M respirator but alas those are now hard to come by. Would a simple shop/mowing mask suffice? I have a stockpile of these Walmart "Hyper Tough" masks from lawn mowing. Frown screen - answered Hovi tip black - semi gloss is fine, same as the Vcoder. Vocoder with gloss black - You can always use gloss then take a fine scotch brite pad and scuff it up dulling the shine. Or buy the correct color online Sanding ABS - I personally where a respirator though good luck finding one these days. Any dust mask with a N95 rating will work also, but again good luck finding any. Next option a hankerchief or rag. Something is better than nothing. Hope these help 1 Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) OP (MV) Post #16 Nearly two months of COVID-19 later, and I'm finally trying to get back into my TK build. With only 35 spots left to be in the first 1,000 EIB troopers, and pretty much that same number to be one of the first 500 Centurions (per May newsletter), it's time to pick up my game. Before I start trimming and fitting my forearms I'm hoping to get some guidance to ensure I piece them together properly. Here is what I'm thinking, and a reminder that I have ATA armor. A & B = Left forearm C & D = Right forearm Thanks to the advice of many troopers I've continued my search for proper PPE for ABS sanding. I managed to snag a 3M respirator from eBay, but I'm aware that there are counterfeit items floating around, so I'm wondering if any of you with the same half face mask (6100, 6200, 6300 models) can confirm that this visually appears to be legitimate. See photos below. In all reality, perhaps the most critical components I'd be concerned about are actually the filters, and I may still need to source some extras plus other dust/debris versions. Hopefully what I purchased is genuine and that I can manage with the filters I have, since I know that first responders have a greater need for this equipment right now. Another question - Do any of you have any recommended tutorials for cutting cover strips? I thought I'd previously seen some threads but am unable to locate them at this time? I like the idea of score-and-snap, but what methods have you all used successfully? To keep them straight when sanding, do you use a belt sander, or perhaps rub them onto sandpaper laid on a table? Since this build thread is intended to serve as a resource for future builders, I also wanted to point out Wingnut65's recent visual checklist revisions which were mentioned in this month's Detachment newsletter. These will be great alongside Joseph's Quick Reference Guide (printable PDF), and I'll also be utilizing Jeff's HWT sheets as well. Quote Responses: On 3/20/2020 at 5:53 AM, Cricket said: And about those shin magnets, I ended up not using/replacing all of the ring magnets on my shins. They didn't like to hold as well. Use the solid ones and save yourself a step. I agree with Tino about wearing something when sanding ABS. Even if all you have is a bandanna. PPE for your eyes is also recommended. You'd be surprised at how much ABS flings itself around when sanding! Oh! And don't forget to soak your holster to stretch it out for your blaster! It makes a world of difference. Your goal is to be able to holster and de-holster your blaster while in kit with your helmet on without any assistance. I spray mine from time to time with holster lubricant for ease of holstering. It's snug in there, so no rebel scum can remove it without me noticing, but it's loose enough to take out on my own. Makes carrying around my blaster at long troops a non-issue. Christine - What product have you used to soak and break in your holster for ease of blaster access? Do you literally soak it in a solution prior to the periodic lubrication? I'll also be sure to use respiratory PPE when sanding my ABS, and I don't intend to use any of the magnet rings for your shin design. They'll simply be used for template designing, possibly for armor gluing clamping, and also around the house. On 3/20/2020 at 9:27 AM, ukswrath said: Hovi tip black - semi gloss is fine, same as the Vcoder. Vocoder with gloss black - You can always use gloss then take a fine scotch brite pad and scuff it up dulling the shine. Or buy the correct color online Sanding ABS - I personally where a respirator though good luck finding one these days. Any dust mask with a N95 rating will work also, but again good luck finding any. Next option a hankerchief or rag. Something is better than nothing. Tony - Thanks for those tips regarding the vocoder color options and sanding PPE. Very helpful! Edited February 28, 2022 by MaskedVengeance Added post sequence number; updated PDF weblink; photo width reformatting Quote
husky68[TK] Posted May 16, 2020 Report Posted May 16, 2020 For cover strips I used metal ruler and box cutter to score/snap. Leaving a tiny extra for sanding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted May 16, 2020 Report Posted May 16, 2020 In addition to Jeff's awesome diagrams, this thread will help as well. Quote
Cricket[TK] Posted May 16, 2020 Report Posted May 16, 2020 6 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said: I managed to snag a 3M respirator from eBay, but I'm aware that there are counterfeit items floating around, so I'm wondering if any of you with the same half face mask (6100, 6200, 6300 models) can confirm that this visually appears to be legitimate. The pics of your 6200 mask look legit to me. I have a 6200, and it looks identical to what I have, including the model #s on the mask. The filter package also looks fine. I'm using different filters (the huge pink disc ones), but the ones you have pics of look similar to ones I've purchased and used in the past. 6 hours ago, MaskedVengeance said: Christine - What product have you used to soak and break in your holster for ease of blaster access? Do you literally soak it in a solution prior to the periodic lubrication? I filled my kitchen sink with hot water and placed the holster in it vertically, keeping any areas that didn't need stretching (i.e. holster strap) above and out of the water. Soak it for about 10 minutes or so to make sure that the water fully penetrates the leather. I wrapped my E-11 in several plastic bags from the market and two large Ziploc storage bags. Once your holster is fully soaked, you'll want to stuff the wrapped blaster into the holster. It will be a very snug fit. To dry, I placed my blaster vertically on a towel next to a floor vent. It should dry out fully within a few days. Once dry, remove the blaster and plastic bags. Fit the blaster into the holster. If it's still tight (and it probably will be), repeat the soaking process again and add a few more bags. Your goal is to have the holster fit be snug enough that it holds the blaster well but can also be removed with minimal effort. This process can take a few soak/dry attempts. Once I got the holster fit just right for my blaster, I sprayed the inside of the holster with holster lubricant (check Amazon). It really makes a difference on how the holster reacts to the blaster! 1 Quote
Daetrin[Admin] Posted May 16, 2020 Report Posted May 16, 2020 On 11/21/2019 at 8:15 AM, wook1138 said: I've added my two cents where I can - see above. Good luck! This is probably one of the best reply threads out there, but I do want to add my own two cents Helmet Interior This is such a personal preference. I've seen people put more money in to the insides of their helmet (painting, fans, electronics, speakers, etc.) than anything else besides the armor kit proper. My own helmets are as sparse as you can get - a foam pad on top and some mesh taped across the frown. Nothing else. A very empty helmet means a lot of air flow and at least where I live (Seattle area) no need for fans at all, even in the summer. The more stuff you put in the bucket the less air flow and more need for fans. Back in the day few people had speaker systems so it wasn't really thought of as mandatory and I didn't stand out for not having one, but these days nearly everyone has one and you will stand out if you don't, hence me going to speaker-up this summer. Its expected nowadays and at some point I wonder if they will ever become part of a CRL. I'm 6'0" am around 180lbs. ATA fit fine, though I did get RT shins (e.g. larger shins) as the ones out of the box were too short for me. For the DLT-19, if you ever find a hyper-firm one, get it. I had one, loved it, sold it, and have regretted it ever since. It's nice to be able to drop it and not care. Regarding thighs, IMHO I think people should just velcro the backs until they have trooped a few times to ensure proper fit and only then glue the backs (realizing that the velcro gives a little more space and give). I've seen enough times where people had to figure out how to unglue them as standing at home for a fitting is not the same thing as walking up/down stairs in armor, running in armor, etc. You may also want to get nomex gloves for casual events where comfort is more important than accuracy. Love the face mask, btw. For the holster, take care that you get one that won't make black marks against your left thigh - mine does and it's a pain. Good points about the neck seal from Justin. I've never worn a balaclava and hope to never have to, TBH, so getting a good neck seal is worth it. If you really want to DIY, sew it directly in to the underarmor top so you never forget to pack it with your kit (ask me how I know ). This is one of the most fun build threads I've seen in awhile, we should get a thread going of the best of the best as reference. So far this is excellent for any new timer to read through, and even us old vets. 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted May 16, 2020 Report Posted May 16, 2020 1 hour ago, Daetrin said: This is one of the most fun build threads I've seen in awhile, we should get a thread going of the best of the best as reference. So far this is excellent for any new timer to read through, and even us old vets. True story. Quote
MaskedVengeance[Staff] Posted May 18, 2020 Author Report Posted May 18, 2020 (edited) OP (MV) Post #17 Here I am with my second post in three days with more images for community consideration, as well as the flexible hand guards and gloves I received from Joseph. As with my previous post, below are some labeled armor part photos which I could use help properly identifying. As a reminder, clicking on the images, which may appear blurred in the shrunken/compressed versions below, will open full-sized high-resolution copies. And any thoughts on the A, B, C, and D forearms? Do I appear to have them labeled for the correct arm? E & F = Which bicep? Larger thumbprint and curved top edge. G & H = Which bicep? Smaller thumbprint and flat top edge. Moving onto shoulder bells, my understanding is that the sweep on the ridge should bend to the front, so in that case "I" should be on my left shoulder, and "J" should be on the right. Am I correct on all those accounts? As for the thighs and calves, I already have those sorted out after corresponding with Terrell, but I'm posting the images below for the sake of documentation. For the purpose of what I'm assuming is to account for the sniper plate, the ATA left thigh is around an inch shorter than the right thigh. My calf pieces also arrived labeled and the right and left pairing are shown below. Now on to the excellent pre-attached latex gloves and flexible hand guards I received from Joseph. I had already purchased some guards from Joseph months ago, but I've been considering using them on nomex gloves, so getting these ready-made ones from Joseph (screen used from his demo) will provide me with Centurion necessities, and then I can decide what to actually troop in. And finally, today we had take-out from Panda Express, and I'm going to assume my fortune cookie message is reference to my Stormtrooper armor. Seems logical, right? Search your feelings, you know it to be true. Thanks for following along on my journey and gifting me with your feedback! It's 3:18am now. Bedtime. MV Quote Responses: On 5/16/2020 at 2:25 AM, husky68 said: For cover strips I used metal ruler and box cutter to score/snap. Leaving a tiny extra for sanding. Robert - Thanks for this tip; I'll definitely be trying out multiple techniques, including that one. I'm going to be obsessed with getting perfectly straight cut lines, so wish me the best! That's also a good idea about leaving extra material to account for sanding. On 5/16/2020 at 8:23 AM, justjoseph63 said: In addition to Jeff's awesome diagrams, this thread will help as well. Joseph - Your visual reference guide is GOLD, and has already been printed and filed in one of my reference folders. On 5/16/2020 at 9:16 AM, Cricket said: The pics of your 6200 mask look legit to me. I have a 6200, and it looks identical to what I have, including the model #s on the mask. The filter package also looks fine. I'm using different filters (the huge pink disc ones), but the ones you have pics of look similar to ones I've purchased and used in the past. I filled my kitchen sink with hot water and placed the holster in it vertically, keeping any areas that didn't need stretching (i.e. holster strap) above and out of the water. Soak it for about 10 minutes or so to make sure that the water fully penetrates the leather. I wrapped my E-11 in several plastic bags from the market and two large Ziploc storage bags. Once your holster is fully soaked, you'll want to stuff the wrapped blaster into the holster. It will be a very snug fit. To dry, I placed my blaster vertically on a towel next to a floor vent. It should dry out fully within a few days. Once I got the holster fit just right for my blaster, I sprayed the inside of the holster with holster lubricant (check Amazon). It really makes a difference on how the holster reacts to the blaster! Christine - I'm glad to hear that about the mask I got, as well as the filters. I know the cartridges I got are intended for fumes, so one they become more available I will likely drop down to the round particle filters you're using. Thanks so much for also describing your holster-stretching technique. On my first read-through I was confused why the blaster would need so many layers for "moisture protection," and then I realized it was enlarging the blaster profile to stretch the leather. Looks like I will soon be trying this in a 5-gallon bucket, and I'll also snag some holster lubricant on Amazon. On 5/16/2020 at 9:20 AM, Daetrin said: This is probably one of the best reply threads out there, but I do want to add my own two cents Helmet Interior This is such a personal preference. I've seen people put more money in to the insides of their helmet (painting, fans, electronics, speakers, etc.) than anything else besides the armor kit proper. My own helmets are as sparse as you can get - a foam pad on top and some mesh taped across the frown. Nothing else. A very empty helmet means a lot of air flow and at least where I live (Seattle area) no need for fans at all, even in the summer. The more stuff you put in the bucket the less air flow and more need for fans. Back in the day few people had speaker systems so it wasn't really thought of as mandatory and I didn't stand out for not having one, but these days nearly everyone has one and you will stand out if you don't, hence me going to speaker-up this summer. Its expected nowadays and at some point I wonder if they will ever become part of a CRL. Regarding thighs, IMHO I think people should just velcro the backs until they have trooped a few times to ensure proper fit and only then glue the backs (realizing that the velcro gives a little more space and give). I've seen enough times where people had to figure out how to unglue them as standing at home for a fitting is not the same thing as walking up/down stairs in armor, running in armor, etc. For the holster, take care that you get one that won't make black marks against your left thigh - mine does and it's a pain. This is one of the most fun build threads I've seen in awhile, we should get a thread going of the best of the best as reference. So far this is excellent for any new timer to read through, and even us old vets. Paul - Wow, I'm honored that you've enjoyed my thread that much. To even be mentioned in the conversation about a "Threads of Fame" is incredible, and hopefully I my final armor product will be worthy. Your insights and tips are very helpful and always welcome! I hadn't considered how filling my bucket with various items could possibly be a bit stifling, and I'm with you on the current expectation and necessity for voice amplification. You also make an excellent point about at-home fittings providing a false sense of movement and fitting needs; I will definitely be sure to do ample testing before setting on something permanent. Perhaps Justin's (@TheRascalKing) sourced ultra-thin velcro will be something worth trying out. I suppose I will find out if my 8oz holster from Darman marks my thigh armor; do you add a layer of protection on the back (unseen) side of the holster, or simply wipe/buff the armor on a regular basis? Edited February 28, 2022 by MaskedVengeance photo width reformatting 2 Quote
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