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Posted
1 minute ago, gmrhodes13 said:

If you find that it causes an excessive amount of cracking you could still keep the brackets without elastic and then add some inner snaps and elastic, would look accurate but keep it from cracking ;) 

I guess you're right, all in due time tough.

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice job on the rivet placement, Jonas!   :jc_doublethumbup:

 

ySqcJHK.jpg?2   

  • Like 1
Posted

So about those reinforcement strips, I won't have them. They were simply too thick for the screws. If anything cracks or breaks, then I will repair it.

lMPEt3j.jpg

 

The bracket system came on atleast:

VWiD9Q9.jpg

BwyIOHw.jpg

 

And I glued on these suckers too after trimming them a bit:

AD93Jik.jpg

X7JZiFU.jpg

 

I have also glued on the silicon handguards on the gloves

1I7YARG.jpg

Now I know E6000 isn't the best job for this, but I wanted to try it anyway since I don't have any super glue.

 

Now I have a question about snaps, I only bought one box of snaps from trooperbay and is wondering what these are called:

DenJ1vu.jpg

 

Should I buy some more? I know there are other sorts too. Can I use these for the ¨Han¨ snap that I have heard about, am a bit unsure? Or the belt snaps since I have seen another sort being used in some builds.

Posted
1 hour ago, LEGOeatPokemon said:

Should I buy some more? I know there are other sorts too. Can I use these for the ¨Han¨ snap that I have heard about, am a bit unsure? Or the belt snaps since I have seen another sort being used in some builds.

Hi, Jonas 

Definitely you're going to need some more snaps, attached is a diagram for snaps placemment so you can calculate how many are needed. You can use it for the Han snap too, about the Belt what I did was to use this kind of snap to attach the canvas belto to the ab and another type,(look at the image) to attach the plastic belt to the canvas .  But refer to the building threads and make a better decision.

 

 

DkWbTfD16ngp7q-VoOxjASMBZLQeFKlAv6PqVPU6

 

rQUja_6VyONCgO-2kgvdWGapv8nHF3lKkNnixMSH

 

KVfQZJ7x5ubsadja1W78iLYh1XkS-FrGYNwBdpsb

 

 

Rivets I have used to attach the plastic belt to the canvas :

 

LIZb8K5TDhS47FqGhMfQRDOIG1w3cZI1dwy4X3rR

 

 

Hope this can help. you are doing a great job mate!!  :salute:

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Shame about the strengthening plates, you will find the brackets will crack the plastic just with general movement.

 

I like to use double snaps, nice to have a spare in case one fails, it's the difference between trooping and not trooping an event ;) 

 

R63O0di.jpg

 

 

  • Like 3
Posted
3 minutes ago, LEGOeatPokemon said:

I might put in elastics in addition with the brackets, then they won't be AS fragile, right?

Personally I'd remove the elastic from the brackets you have or at least have them loose, you really don't want any straight on them ;) 

  • Like 2
Posted

Quick question about the hand guards-  Are you sure they are silicone and not latex?  E-6000, CA(super) or 99% of glues/epoxies will not adhere to pure silicone**.  If they are latex, E-6000 is the perfect thing to use.  I never recommend using super glue, as it can (and will) get brittle over time and will eventually peel off of the rubber of the glove.

 

** I make my hand guards from silicone, but I embed the backs with canvas to give any glue a porous surface to adhere to.  (That is actually a set of the hand guards I make used in the strapping photo Glen posted).

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

 

I like to use double snaps, nice to have a spare in case one fails, it's the difference between trooping and not trooping an event ;) 

EXCELLENT advice from Glen there.  It costs a bit extra, but I wouldn't do it any other way...  (better safe than sorry)!

  • Like 2
Posted

Forgot to add, if you have enough overlap onto the back plate, you can trim the large rear tabs from the back of the shoulder straps. Jonas.  Some troopers need that extra length, but if you don't I would suggest eliminating them.  It won't affect approval at any level, but would make them more screen accurate.

 

qb4YVKO.jpg?1 B3vL4VO.jpg?1 FAKhPZ2.jpg?1

  • Like 1
Posted

@justjoseph63 Just checked up on the gloves, yeah they didn't stick, I had sanded the back of the handguards though. They come from trooperbay since I had thought of buying from you but I think they were unavalible when I checked in late october.

 

Posted
3 minutes ago, LEGOeatPokemon said:

@justjoseph63 Just checked up on the gloves, yeah they didn't stick, I had sanded the back of the handguards though. Did the glue not stick to the gloves or the hand guards?

 

They come from trooperbay since I had thought of buying from you but I think they were unavalible when I checked in late october.  I have those back in stock now, but instead of buying a set from me just yet let's find out if we can get the ones from Trooperbay to work. 

 

 

Posted (edited)

By the way I remembered that I still have the old strapping system from SDS! Maybe I can repurpose those?

8eCVIA9.jpg

Edited by LEGOeatPokemon
Posted

I would not use Velcro, Jonas.  It wears out over time after repeated use and loses it's ability to connect together.  Snaps, brother.  Trust me on that one.

Posted
1 minute ago, justjoseph63 said:

I would not use Velcro, Jonas.  It wears out over time after repeated use and loses it's ability to connect together.  Snaps, brother.  Trust me on that one.

I know that, I ment the elastic and snaps, I am aready removing the velcro

Posted
1 minute ago, LEGOeatPokemon said:

I know that, I ment the elastic and snaps, I am aready removing the velcro

Nothing wrong with re-purposing the elastic and snaps!

  • Like 1
Posted
[mention=22112]justjoseph63[/mention] They didn't stick to the handguards


I, too, initially purchased the ones from Trooperbay, so I’m interested in the outcome of what it will take to get them to stick, since I’ll use them as backup. I would have thought that sanding word work, but maybe really scuffing them up with a blade will be necessary. I’m already following this thread, but will pay special attention to this issue. =)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

So, I am doing this as I go today, I recently finished these straps:

w8AhnqE.jpg

7hdCDER.jpg

 Now I am going to try and figure out the rest, about how should everything line up? Should the crotch sit close or more space in between? How close should the posterior sit?

Edited by LEGOeatPokemon
Posted

Once cleaned up and repainted, those split rivets will look fantastic!  Han snap:  Perfect.  Cod snaps:  I would round out those edges just a hair.  Otherwise, they can cause chafing or snag on your undersuit.

 

Hr7kuP9.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

And the last thing for today; the right kidney to ab strap! (Can I have another strap under it? So it becomes more straight when worn.)

Z41Cjyq.jpg

Also I rounded out the edges at the posterior @justjoseph63 I thought there was something scratching me! :duim:

Edited by LEGOeatPokemon
Posted (edited)

Should I have 2 or 3 straps between the kidney to posterior? If 3, I would have to go over the brackets and wouldn't that become a bit wonky? Maybe I should just use the brackets in addition with elastic straps as backup reinforcements on the sides of the brackets?

Edited by LEGOeatPokemon

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