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Posted

Today I tried out the bells after some trimming away the return edge and I have also sewed the straps for them.

 

Here they are about 1 inch from edge to top of snap (they are only taped down for now):

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Here is some fitting photos:

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Don't mind the wonky butt, it's fixed.

 

It's pretty closed up front, but still a bit showing back. What do you all think? :unsure:

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice work, you could drop the biceps a little to reduce the space around the elbow area ;) 

  • Like 2
Posted
Just now, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work, you could drop the biceps a little to reduce the space around the elbow area ;) 

Okidoki!

  • LEGOeatPokemon changed the title to LEGOeatPokemon's SDS ANH TK Hero build
Posted

Today I glued on the straps for bells and shoulders.

 

I also unfortunatly realized the straps between the biceps and forearms were a little long. I have been following builds like ukswraths and got confused by the measurements, I'm still not used to inches.

So intead of around one fourth of an inch I had one inch and one fourth of one inch.

Not sure how I thought there? Now it should be right anyway.

 

Now also a question: how are the bicep to bell strap done? Where should they stay?

 

 

 

 

 

05999cbecae45d68df175ee4d35b53cf.jpg0109c0559be56489ed251c18e071bb83.jpg41e1c336b66d03f68f20790486a4f2c8.jpgc4ca97ea7d5925661abd297ed72879d5.jpg

Posted

Got my handguards from Joseph today, they are really nice! :duim:

I hope they will stick as I'm getting low on E6000, will post pictures when they are dried.

  • Like 1
Posted

That's up to you.  I designed these to flex a LOT and contour to the gloves more than the regular latex type.. this way the sides don't pop up.  Just make sure you don't add any E-6000 past the cloth part on the underside.

dojlG61.jpg?1

  • Like 2
Posted

Did some strapping today:

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It's going slow, but the strapping is almost all done!:D

 

Right now I just need a belt to hold up the thighs.

Posted

Awesome work so far. You can basically use any belt. Just try and find a good black one. Mine is a 2 1/2 “ wide black nylon “tactical” belt. Works great.

  • Like 1
Posted

Getting close, Jonas!  SO close!  Fantastic progress, sir.  ABS belt placement is spot-on, but I am wondering about the bicep/forearm strapping.  In the older photo, you had it pretty much nailed, but in the new photos it looks like you have raised them a bit.  The left side still looks great, but the right one seems to ride a little higher, causing a gap between the wrist and the top of the hand plate.  

At this pace, you are going to be approved sooner than you think, but my goal is to see you approved at EI and then Centurion!  ;)

 

ai97spm.jpg?1       3OqWEgY.jpg?2  

Posted
2 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

causing a gap between the wrist and the top of the hand plate.

Yeah, I seem to have just not pulled the forearm enough down and I hadn't pulled on the gloves enough either as I use inner gloves as they are XL size (it's also less sweaty) so it was hard to feel that.

 

Some new pictures:

PIOYlz6.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Pictures of the helmet before I do anything with it:

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SDS do love their velcro...

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Thing I know I need to do:

-Replace decals with paintjob

-Switch out the ears to proper hero ones

-Insert the frown mesh

-Padding

-Glue the lenses

 

Something else I have missed?

Posted

Brow trim is a little uneven, in the middle, you'll notice in the reference lower down that hardly any white is seen between the brow and eyes, gives the meaner Hero look ;) 

 

7qRYHMX.jpg

 

Also you could touch up the ends of the frown/teeth at the moment they are a little short and appear to be angling upwards

whole%20hero%20helm2.jpghi%20hero3.jpg

 

For the traps and tears to make them look "hand painted" you could just go over with a black permanent marker, a little trick to save having to purchase more stickers, but hand painting from scratch still looks the best ;) 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

The paint on the vocoder ridges should go all the way to the top of the ridge.  Easy fix!

 

      zjpL4Qu.jpg       KKZqeB8.jpg?2    9ZBQOLM.jpg?3

  • Like 2
Posted

Really you want your boots on for this one, they can make a huge difference with how the shins sit.

 

Over all not looking bad, left thigh could come down a little.

 

Many of us add some foam behind the sniper plate to help push it forwards so it doesn't hit the thigh ;) 

  • Like 1
Posted

Like Glen said, the left thigh could be dropped down a bit.  Have you walked around while wearing the legs?  They look pretty close to the posterior plate, and this can cause them to catch on each other and make it uncomfortable.  If you hear a "clicking" sound, trimming the tops in the rear may be needed.  There should be enough space between them to walk without them touching.

 

mL9Miub.jpg f4VY1Mh.jpg

 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:

There should be enough space between them to walk without them touching.

 

I will check later today, it's pretty easy to adjust them as they are held up with velcro

Posted

Here we have it with shoes on:

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Although it may look like it, the back top of the thighs actually don't klank against the butt plate and I can't hear anything except maybe the knees. I will fix that with padding later though.

 

I do have one problem I think, the back to kidney strapping. I feel like tightening that would let my shoulders sit closer to the armor

Posted

Shins appear to be sitting a little high, could come down a little more on the boots, having a strap of elastic looped through the top of the boot to the inside of the shin can help pull them down, that is if there is room at the top of the boot.

 

How snug is the cod around your private area, you may be able to bring the cod/ab upwards a little which will give you more room at the top of the thighs.

 

Always try adjustments before trimming, you can take off but can't add on ;) 

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