gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 29, 2019 Report Posted August 29, 2019 7 1/4 to 7 1/2 is fine the CRL dimension is approximate length. 2 Quote
mlarsen[TK] Posted August 29, 2019 Author Report Posted August 29, 2019 11 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: 7 1/4 to 7 1/2 is fine the CRL dimension is approximate length. Mine is a hair over, about 194mm. I didn't glue the end caps on and they can come off. I could remove a few mm on each end cap or is this close enough? Quote
mlarsen[TK] Posted August 29, 2019 Author Report Posted August 29, 2019 I cleaned up my helmet some last night. Still some more cleaning up to do but it is getting there. Removed blue strip that was half hidden under ear pieces. Added the phantom teeth. Painted hovi tip mics white with scuff marks. I need to clean up the vocoder some, I don't like the way it looks. Also did some work on the shins and applied white industrial strength velcro to the back covestrip. 2 Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted August 29, 2019 Report Posted August 29, 2019 looking great!! Here's some vocoder reference photos 1 Quote
mlarsen[TK] Posted August 29, 2019 Author Report Posted August 29, 2019 (edited) I thought I would take some initial fittings before I work on the other thigh. Should I trim more of the thigh? I can fit about a finger in on each side of the knee, some padding on 1 side should keep it more aligned. Need to make sure I space the elbow and wrist so an even amount of black shows. Align drop boxed better at the end of the belt and pull them up a bit. I plan to glue the elastic to keep them in place. Gap between thigh and cod piece ok? I have a belt with a piece of black elastic on it and I still need to keep pulling up the thigh piece. Maybe nylon strapping would work better. Reduce black in shoulder gap in picture below. Again make sure drop boxes are better aligned in picture below. Keep spacing between the elbow and wrist the same. Align ab and kidney plate better. Align rivets better and paint white in picture below. Keep spacing between elbow and wrist the same. Align drop boxes better. As always any feedback is greatly appreciated. Edited August 29, 2019 by mlarsen 2 Quote
wook1138[TK] Posted August 29, 2019 Report Posted August 29, 2019 Looking great. When it comes to the thigh, I would leave it as is. A bit of extra room is better than too little. Foam padding will help if it is even needed. The space between the thigh and cod looks good. It is all about balance - if you are a taller trooper so you can get away with a bit more black there than some - just so long as the black at the knee is proportional. You are really moving along with this build. Keep up the awesome work! 2 Quote
wook1138[TK] Posted August 29, 2019 Report Posted August 29, 2019 Also, the thermal detonator looks good to me. My two cents. If your OCD requires you to trim a few mm off each cap, keep in mind that you will need to move your clips outwards a bit as well. 1 Quote
wook1138[TK] Posted August 29, 2019 Report Posted August 29, 2019 18 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: Its the normal way of doing it Yeah, sure. Now it is - ever since I originally invented it. I also invented the internet and oxygen. So... you're welcome. Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted August 29, 2019 Report Posted August 29, 2019 Looking good , you're going in the right path trooper!! Quote
mlarsen[TK] Posted September 5, 2019 Author Report Posted September 5, 2019 I am assuming there is too much gap between the lower rear thigh pieces and will need to be filled in? Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted September 5, 2019 Report Posted September 5, 2019 It will look alot better if you do. Your cover strips look a bit long at the top and just to mention the original suits snipped/rounded the corners - keep up the great work 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 5, 2019 Report Posted September 5, 2019 2 hours ago, mlarsen said: I am assuming there is too much gap between the lower rear thigh pieces and will need to be filled in? After trimming you can use a long block of wood with sandpaper wrapped around to help make the cut a little straighter. Adding a piece of scrap ABS plastic behind with also help. Quote
mlarsen[TK] Posted September 5, 2019 Author Report Posted September 5, 2019 I agree I think the rear cover strips could be better. Rounded at the tops and bottoms? For the gaps use Plasticweld, let dry, sand smooth and paint white? Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 5, 2019 Report Posted September 5, 2019 18 minutes ago, mlarsen said: I agree I think the rear cover strips could be better. Rounded at the tops and bottoms? For the gaps use Plasticweld, let dry, sand smooth and paint white? Cover strips should be either rounded or cut on angle on both tops and bottoms Most use ABS paste for any gaps but it you want to fill and paint that would be ok also. Quote
ABS80 Posted September 6, 2019 Report Posted September 6, 2019 You can trim the lower rear of thighs , you don't have to worry to fill gap, many original suits had trimmed lower thighs, I sent you photos by PM https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/5871-backs-of-legs/ Mark (AP) Quote
husky68[TK] Posted September 6, 2019 Report Posted September 6, 2019 The back of my thighs are the same with the ridges from each side being of different angles and depths. So It would require reshaping the ridge to make them line up perfectly which is likely a challenge. You can cut the ridges out of the back of thighs as shown in screen grabs from movie, I might do this but it's a decision for later. The CRL does not restrict this for thighs but for shins at lvl 3, "Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges". Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted September 6, 2019 Report Posted September 6, 2019 20 minutes ago, husky68 said: The CRL does not restrict this for thighs but for shins at lvl 3, "Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges". That was s mishap when updating the CRL, the mobility cuts regarding the thighs have the same restrictions as the shins - not going past the raised ridges. We’re still waiting for it to be updated. Quote
wook1138[TK] Posted September 6, 2019 Report Posted September 6, 2019 Hey Robert, for my build that I didn't trim the back of the legs I clamped the pieces into the proper position and dipped into a hot bath to attempt to reshape them a little. I think I also tried a heat gun, but I don't recommend a heat gun if you have not used one before (it can be tricky to work with). Once I reshaped the parts a bit, I then glued with a piece of abs along the inside - I used a bunch of E6000 and kept it clamped for a couple days. Then I filled in the gap with a bit of ABS paste. It was a lot easier than it sounds. You probably don't even need to reshape before gluing. Quote
mlarsen[TK] Posted September 7, 2019 Author Report Posted September 7, 2019 Time for the sniper knee. How does it look? It is off centered a bit but it lines up on sides and the front looks balanced horizontally. 1 Quote
mlarsen[TK] Posted September 7, 2019 Author Report Posted September 7, 2019 And some more fittings. As always any feedback is greatly appreciated. I feel like I am getting close to basic approval. Need to apply some glue to keep the drop boxes in place. Thighs should go down a bit? Need to make sure thermal detonator is aligned better and I may trim the bottom thighs were the gap is and upper shins to allow for better movement. I also need to make sure the rear shins are better aligned when I velcro them shut. 1 Quote
mlarsen[TK] Posted September 13, 2019 Author Report Posted September 13, 2019 I made my own helmet fans with a 4 AA battery pack attached to the helmet with industrial strength velcro so I can remove if needed, cords are clean and hidden. Where do most of you place the battery pack. I put it on the right side but now the helmet leans to that side, some additional padding may help. There isn't enough room in the back of the helmet for the battery pack. 2 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 13, 2019 Report Posted September 13, 2019 Very nice, I started using a single battery pack with both fans but then opted for a separate pack for each fan, I found the batteries can die during a long troop if on two fans, also found that one fan was enough to use as two fans were playing havoc with my eyes running, must have sensitive eyes I guess. Great build and looking good, from what I can see I'd try to reduce the gap at your elbows, perhaps biceps down a little and forearms brought back. Drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt section, I found a few dabs of E6000 on the elastic helps them stay in place. Also just watch the alignment of your armor cover strips. Good luck and hope to see you approved very soon. Quote
mlarsen[TK] Posted September 16, 2019 Author Report Posted September 16, 2019 I got my TK ID! TK-12929 I have a Quest Designs E-11 blaster. Can I go on to EI without weathering my blaster? I plan to do so eventually. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 16, 2019 Report Posted September 16, 2019 Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks. For EI there is no requirement in regards to weathering Quote
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