echo327[TK] Posted August 18, 2019 Author Report Posted August 18, 2019 So.... this is a perfect example of why it's important to have a build thread. I was very happy with my clips for the TD. After posting, you wonderful people pointed out my couple little mistakes. Which, looking back, you all were absolutely correct. So, after some wound licking and time spent not thinking about my failures. I made a new set. I think these are more accurate and I feel better about them. Keep me in line. I think is the moral of the story. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 18, 2019 Report Posted August 18, 2019 Great work and attitude. The clips look a tad long but may just be the picture, on some (not most) you can just see the clips under the bottom of the belt, just check once you test fit on your belt, you want to be able to see some of the top circle detail when worn. 1 Quote
echo327[TK] Posted August 18, 2019 Author Report Posted August 18, 2019 Sorry, I'm going velcro, but screen accurate is what we're going for. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
TK 71627[TK] Posted August 19, 2019 Report Posted August 19, 2019 Sorry, I'm going velcro, but screen accurate is what we're going for. Sent from my SM-N960U using TapatalkI’m like 98% VELCRO FREE on my armor ... only Velcro I have is on my belt...Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Coastertk Posted August 19, 2019 Report Posted August 19, 2019 7 hours ago, echo327 said: Sorry, I'm going velcro, but screen accurate is what we're going for. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk That snap you have in the Cod should actually be a Split Rivet. Doesn’t need to be functional. You can use the same hole, just drill out the inside (not seen) part of the snap, it’ll split apart. Then glue a snap plate over top, or just in front of the split rivet. 2 Quote
echo327[TK] Posted August 19, 2019 Author Report Posted August 19, 2019 That snap you have in the Cod should actually be a Split Rivet. Doesn’t need to be functional. You can use the same hole, just drill out the inside (not seen) part of the snap, it’ll split apart. Then glue a snap plate over top, or just in front of the split rivet.On the fix list for tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up. I think I need to slow down a little. I'm starting to make stupid little mistakes. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk Quote
echo327[TK] Posted August 19, 2019 Author Report Posted August 19, 2019 Custom made belt! During this build I'm learning that things I thought might be challenging for me are challenging but doable. I also like the fact that i can say that I made that stuff myself. I hope you like it. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 19, 2019 Report Posted August 19, 2019 Nice looking belt, just with the size compare it to the angled cuts on the end of the plastic section if you will be aiming for L3: The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt. 2 Quote
echo327[TK] Posted August 20, 2019 Author Report Posted August 20, 2019 So this was a complete failure. This is what I get for thinking I can do these things. I'm done for today! Tomorrow is another day.Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk Quote
Coastertk Posted August 20, 2019 Report Posted August 20, 2019 I’ve always used brush on model paint for the tube stripes, and have had the same results you had there. Paint bleed. Some people brush on a white paint first, then follow up with the blue. Reason being that the white will bleed through first, being less noticeable. That being said, you need to clean up those stripes. Get some paint thinner and strong sharp toothpicks. Dip the toothpick in the thinner and start removing the excess. I hope the Rust-Oleum lifts off as nice as Testors does. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 20, 2019 Report Posted August 20, 2019 It is best when painting tube stripes to use a white first, this way if there is any bleed at least it will be white and it should fill any little gaps before going over with blue. Also it may just be the image but what width is the stripes, should be @16mm . 1 Quote
echo327[TK] Posted August 21, 2019 Author Report Posted August 21, 2019 Take 2 on the tube stripes. I'm much happier with this. I still have to clean them up a bit but at least I know my process works. On to the other side. I also found some time to put in the rivets on the ab and kidney plates. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 21, 2019 Report Posted August 21, 2019 Nice on the kidney but looks like you may have squashed the ab plate rivets a little too much from that image. Toothpicks are handy to use to help clean up excess paint. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 21, 2019 Report Posted August 21, 2019 Just notice your ab plates too, reference for comparison below, shouldn't have rounded corners and the smaller plate is a little big Quote
echo327[TK] Posted August 22, 2019 Author Report Posted August 22, 2019 Finishing touches on the bucket! Getting so close!!!Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted August 22, 2019 Report Posted August 22, 2019 Looks great ! Congratulations ! Quote
echo327[TK] Posted August 23, 2019 Author Report Posted August 23, 2019 Since I'm so close to being done with my build and I really can't do anything till my boots get here, I decided to do a little work on a custom case for my armor. I know most of you use the huskey locking case but i had this in my garage for years. I repurposed it and it's now an imperial transport trunk. Looks official right!!?? I even have the proper amount of propaganda on it too!!!Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk 2 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 23, 2019 Report Posted August 23, 2019 Bin looks great. Just on your helmet make sure you don't have any excess paint from the teeth on to the gums, looks like there may be a little bit there. Quote
ABS80 Posted August 23, 2019 Report Posted August 23, 2019 (edited) Eye sockets too small you need to remove more material, ears too wide, holes on frown too small, your forearms and biceps too big, your belt rivet cover caps are too big, too much return edge on sides of chest plate ect... Mark Edited August 23, 2019 by ABS80 2 Quote
echo327[TK] Posted August 23, 2019 Author Report Posted August 23, 2019 Eye sockets too small you need to remove more material, ears too wide, holes on frown too small, your forearms and biceps too big, your belt rivet cover caps are too big, too much return edge on sides of chest plate ect... Mark All things you pointed out are on the list. I agree with the forearms but, the biceps fit perfectly. Not sure if I can make any smaller. Maybe remove some more return edge? Will these things affect basic approval? I'm totally planning on fixing these things, just want to know where I stand now. Thank you so much for the help!Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
TKSpartan[Staff] Posted August 23, 2019 Report Posted August 23, 2019 16 minutes ago, echo327 said: All things you pointed out are on the list. I agree with the forearms but, the biceps fit perfectly. Not sure if I can make any smaller. Maybe remove some more return edge? Will these things affect basic approval? I'm totally planning on fixing these things, just want to know where I stand now. Thank you so much for the help! Hi Erick, I would suggest to post another complete armor photo when you have your boots and we can see the whole set. Keep on doing a great job. cheers 1 Quote
echo327[TK] Posted August 24, 2019 Author Report Posted August 24, 2019 Resizing the forearms and E-11 assembly today! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
Coastertk Posted August 24, 2019 Report Posted August 24, 2019 If you could remove “all” of that forearm return edge (wrist side) then you won’t be asked to do it later when you apply for Centurion. 1 Quote
echo327[TK] Posted August 24, 2019 Author Report Posted August 24, 2019 Model building without instructions.Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk 1 Quote
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