jsilvius - ANH Stunt Build

[jsilvius[Staff]]

TK 4863 @Stoagie helped us this weekend. We are making some real progress. I can't thank Stoagie enough for his guidance. Here are some pics of my son working on parts.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[jsilvius[Staff]]

Some shot of my Bucket still a WIP, but getting closer

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Frank75139[501st]]

Brow looks a bit low, maybe cut a bit so the rubber sits higher. Looking good though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CableGuy[TK]]

Nice progress, James. :-)

 

If I may, your ears a currently a little thick. Compared with screen used, you could roughly half the thickness of the discs.

As you have a second pair, I’d suggest trying something a little like this;

 

 

 

Looking closely at the photos, it looks like there are mould lines where I’ve marked the red lines on the discs. This will roughly follow through on the curved sections, too.

 

 

I’d agree with Frank that the brow is a little low compared with the majority of stunt helmets*.

Do you have a couple of shots from side-on to see how the face is aligned with the back&cap?

 

 

* https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/46285-early-2019-crl-update-change-requests/ (brow height info and references)

 

Best wishes

Dan

 

 

[jsilvius[Staff]]

Thanks for the feedback everyone! I'll see what I can do about those items. I guess I'm most worried the I'll have to drill new holes to get the brim higher. Anyone. The next step was calves. Here I'm worried because my right calf doesn't close as my left one... not sure how to address this.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[CableGuy[TK]]

I guess I'm most worried the I'll have to drill new holes to get the brim higher. Anyone.

Do you have pictures of the lid from side on?? This will help to see how the face plate and back have been positioned as this plays a big part in the brow height.

Dan

[Sly11[Admin]]

You may need to drill more holes but you can always reinforce the thinned ABS in that area by using a scalp thin piece of ABS glued behind if the holes are too close together.
So almost anything can be easily fixed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jsilvius[Staff]]

Thanks guys! I'll post a couple of side profile pics tonight and see if someone can give me some guidance as to how to adjust.

my kit didn't come with the screening for behind the teeth, what is the recommend product for that, and how do you attach it?

I'm waiting on the templates so I can do the painting as well.

[TheSwede[TK]]

40 minutes ago, jsilvius said:

screening for behind the teeth,

My advise is to not have any and instead use a balaclava, that way you stay hidden inside and have a much better air flow in the helmet. To top it of it´s screen accurate

On 6/24/2019 at 1:27 AM, jsilvius said:

The next step was calves.

You should start with removing all of the return edge on the bottom of the shins and then overlap them really snug around your boot and snug to your calf, mark the overlap and trim. You want to remove all of that flat area and by the looks of it you should be able to

 

Also, I noted the seams on the boots and just a heads up if your going for L2/L3 you will need other boots as seams on the front is not allowed

[jsilvius[Staff]]

2 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Also, I noted the seams on the boots and just a heads up if your going for L2/L3 you will need other boots as seams on the front is not allowed

Thanks again for the feedback! I knew about the boots. We got these so we could get things fitted and I could get my ID.

I plan on ordering a pair from Imperial Boots later.

[TheSwede[TK]]

Just now, jsilvius said:

Thanks again for the feedback! I knew about the boots. We got these so we could get things fitted and I could get my ID.

I plan on ordering a pair from Imperial Boots later.

Then I would hold off on sizeing the shins as other boots might make the fit different

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

^^^^^Definitely, I had two sets of boots supposed to be the same sizing BUT one was wider in the ankle so shins where a little snugger. 

[jsilvius[Staff]]

Do you have pictures of the lid from side on?? This will help to see how the face plate and back have been positioned as this plays a big part in the brow height.

Dan

Dan, here are a few shots from the sides.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[jsilvius[Staff]]

^^^^^Definitely, I had two sets of boots supposed to be the same sizing BUT one was wider in the ankle so shins where a little snugger. 

Ugh... I was hoping not to wait.. oh well, better safe than having to re-do my lower legs.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[jsilvius[Staff]]

Nice progress, James. :-)
 
If I may, your ears a currently a little thick. Compared with screen used, you could roughly half the thickness of the discs.
As you have a second pair, I’d suggest trying something a little like this;
 
Best wishes
Dan

Based on your feedback, does this look like a good trim line?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[TheSwede[TK]]

9 minutes ago, jsilvius said:

Ugh... I was hoping not to wait.. oh well, better safe than having to re-do my lower legs.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Yes definetly worth it, not sure if you´re already aware but a common issue is the "twisting of TK Shins"...keeping the shins snug on your boot and leg prevents that very effectivly and no other solutions, stir ups, snaps, velcro etc are not needed. IB is currently doing a run so you should be able to get in on it.....unless….I happen to have a pair from them that I got for an all out screen accurate build that I now have put on hold so if you want a pair quick and are a size Classic 421 - 43EU / 10US / 9UK I can sell them for what I bought them for, never used only tried on for size.

[TheSwede[TK]]

6 minutes ago, jsilvius said:

does this look like a good trim line?

Looks like a good starting point but why don´t you use the ears you already started with?

[jsilvius[Staff]]

Looks like a good starting point but why don´t you use the ears you already started with?

I'm doing two builds, one for me, and one for my son. I figured I could practice on one of the spare sets and if I get it right, Awesome, if not, I have 3 more sets. LOL...

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[jsilvius[Staff]]

IB is currently doing a run so you should be able to get in on it.....unless….I happen to have a pair from them that I got for an all out screen accurate build that I now have put on hold so if you want a pair quick and are a size Classic 421 - 43EU / 10US / 9UK I can sell them for what I bought them for, never used only tried on for size.

Thank you for the offer, I would take you up on it,but I'm a size 11US and my kid is a size 12US. But thank you so much!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[TheSwede[TK]]

Before you start trimming the ears I suggest you reposition the facplate, it´s a bit "sunk in" at the moment. Place it more out and down as illustrated by the arrows, not only will it make your helmet look closer to the originals it will also make the ears easier to trim as that will alligne the "tubes" (Goes for both sides of the helmet)

[TheSwede[TK]]

11 minutes ago, jsilvius said:

I'm doing two builds, one for me, and one for my son

Oh that´s awesome I built a kit for my son as well, here we are at our latest Troop as few week ago (I´m the FOTK and he´s on the left in the pic)

 

13 minutes ago, jsilvius said:

Thank you for the offer, I would take you up on it,but I'm a size 11US and my kid is a size 12US.

No worries, they would definetly be to small, the recommendation is to order one size up so yeah I got small feet

[jsilvius[Staff]]

Before you start trimming the ears I suggest you reposition the facplate, it´s a bit "sunk in" at the moment. Place it more out and down as illustrated by the arrows, not only will it make your helmet look closer to the originals it will also make the ears easier to trim as that will alligne the "tubes"...

So based on the feedback, does that look better?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[TheSwede[TK]]

9 minutes ago, jsilvius said:

So based on the feedback, does that look better?

Better but I would lower it just a bit, that brow that is

[CableGuy[TK]]

Hi James,

 

Yes, the Swede (Daniel) has you covered. I’d agree with attempting to reposition the faceplate. The below shows where the eyes would usually sit in relation to the line on the rear of the helmet;

 

 

You’re not alone here, hence me asking for side on shots. Quite a few helmets of late have been built the same way which leads to brow and position issues. You’ve caught it early so should be okay to experiment with the position.

Based on your latest attempt, I’d perhaps suggest trying the face plate a little higher, as below;

 

 

I’d also agree regarding the ears - the approximate lines that you marked look much better, however, I’d agree that you try the faceplate reposition first, then have a dummy run with the ears that you’ve already cut. You might not even need to start on the spare pair. ;-)

 

Keep up the good work.

 

[jsilvius[Staff]]

Well life got in the way, but progress is being made. I'm still working on the bucket modifications, but I've also trimmed all armor, built forearms, biceps, and shins, thighs are still curing and I'm on to strapping. I'm just going Level 1, maybe fit it up later, or try for Level 2/3 with a new kit once I take this one dirty for TD.
Here are some updated images.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk