My e11 build (Fieldmarshall kit)

[Moussvroum]

Thank you Chris. I made this mistake because the first screw couldn't go in the bottom of the main part. 

I've finished the hole and everything went like you said 

[Moussvroum]

On 6/30/2019 at 9:35 PM, Moussvroum said:

Screws go beyond in the receiver. I’ll trim them (grew arrows). But I can’t trim the screws which maintains the connection between the folding stock and the receiver (red arrows). I can unscrew them, insert the bolt and screw again. But the bolt can’t move in the receiver.

It seems that the solution is to solder the folding stock connection. Any other tip ?

 

 

I wasn't satisfied that the bolt could not move in the main tube. This kit is near perfect, so why the bolt shouldn't move ?

I decided to sold the part that connect the folding stock on the main tube. I used a bi-component glue for metal, not to wrap the main tube with soldering.

 

 

I used the screws to maintain the parts during the process.

 

 

Two days after, the result seems to be very strong.

 

 

I trimmed the parts and I cut the screws so they don't stick in the tube (5mm less).

I'm very happy with the result.

 

 

I took the opportunity to fill the little hole near the "S" selector.

 

 

[T K[501st]]

Fantastic work there! If you hadn't shown the pictures of the process I would not have known you modded it. Keep it up! I am loving this stuff.

Edited July 9, 2019 by T K
Darn Grammar

[T-Jay[TK]]

Very nice, David.  Looking forward to your next build update. Getting closer to paint this beauty.

[Moussvroum]

Thanks Tino and Aaron.

I've working on the scope rail.

I had to add washers to prevent the scope from moving. Almost invisible

 

 

The counter bracket is included in the rail but I think it puts the counter to much forward.

If I refer to the FISD e11 blaster reference, the counter bracket must be after the first feet of the scope, not before.

 

 

I’ll have to cut half of the bracket. Luckily, the rail is in hard steel. Half of it should be enough to fix the Hengstler.

 

 

Do you agree with me ?

Edited July 10, 2019 by Moussvroum

[T-Jay[TK]]

Before cutting the counter bracket, I would try a placement test when it is attached to the rear foot of the scope. Would that bring the counter in a suitable position?

[Moussvroum]

Sorry I wasn't clear. The bracket is a part of the rail. Just one piece.

[T-Jay[TK]]

My mistake, should have noticed that in your last photo above.

Well, in that case I would give it a try and do it like shown in your picture.

Keeping fingers crossed...

Edited July 11, 2019 by T-Jay

[Moussvroum]

I’ve cut the rail. Not a laser cut but very satisfied.

 

 

I’ve made a screw thread in the Hengtler and fixed it on the rail.

 

 

The result is better than the first try. As mentioned in the FISD e11 reference “ The top of the counter should be aligned with the centerline of the scope. The Hengstler logo should be aligned with the front foot of the scope.”

 

 

Time to assemble the blaster and to show you some pictures !

 

 

[T K[501st]]

Awesome! I appreciate your attention to detail. It looks like all you need now are some T tracks and then paint. This is a quality blaster! Oh, and I like your stand for it too! 

[Dracotrooper]

Mighty fine so far! ... now for some t-tracks

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[Moussvroum]

Thanks guys 

T-tracks are at home. Need to find some time to prepare them. Need to test how to curve them. Will try hot water first.

[Vader2015[TK]]

Good assembly, I'll use you as reference when I get the kit

[LightBox]

Looking very good so far! How do you plan on painting it? Loving the build so far, lots of good ideas. 

[T-Jay[TK]]

22 hours ago, Moussvroum said:

(...)   T-tracks are at home. Need to find some time to prepare them. Need to test how to curve them. Will try hot water first.

Not sure if hot water will work but if you have access to a heat gun, I would highly recommend using that.

And here is a tutorial with some general help for installing T-tracks:

 

[Moussvroum]

-> Thank you Tino for the t-tracks tutorial 

-> Hassan, for the paint job (the more difficult job for me : I hate painting ), it'll be a flat black, with just a little weathering.

 

I wasn't satisfied by the screw fixing the hengstler counter. The head was too big and touch the main tube when fixing the rail.

 

 

The counter wasn't strictly vertical. I also wanted the counter not to rotate on the bracket. So I decided to had a nut in the counter in order to tighten more the screw. The nut is fixed with bi-component epoxy glue for metal.

 

 

I also changed the screw with a more curved head one.

 

 

The result is more solid and the screw is less visible.

 

 

Edited July 15, 2019 by Moussvroum

[Moussvroum]

Does anyone knows what kind of prism I could use in the scope ? I'd like to see through it like a real one 

[CableGuy[TK]]

Hmmm. I might be drooling over this build a little!!

Keep up the good work. :-)

[Moussvroum]

Thank you Dan. I see you used Hammerite Hammered black. If I understand, it's not a flat black paint but it has a good texture ?

[darthcue[TK]]

Does anyone knows what kind of prism I could use in the scope ? I'd like to see through it like a real one 

This is what i installed on my scopes.

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[Moussvroum]

Thanks. Can you  give more details ?

[Dracotrooper]

Man oh man, this talk of prisms giving me goosebumps!! Very interested to see progression of events!?!

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[T-Jay[TK]]

12 minutes ago, Dracotrooper said:

Man oh man, this talk of prisms giving me goosebumps!! Very interested to see progression of events!?!    (...)

Me too and I guess Brian @Bulldog44 would also love to know. 

 

[darthcue[TK]]

Thanks. Can you  give more details ?

For more details about this prisms you may contact@Bulldog44

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[Moussvroum]

I think I should use 2 porro prisms ( like in binoculars). Thinking of this I must