My e11 build (Fieldmarshall kit)

[Moussvroum]

On 6/12/2019 at 6:05 AM, T K said:

Looking good. I like how you attached the power cylinders; I am working on a real sterling and want to keep it original as possible, but also dress it up as a E-11. I think I'll copy your trick. 

I've found a thinner magnet from another hard disk drive (before 2 mm -> now 1 mm). Almost invisible and still very strong.

 

 

[Mupfel]

Great progress here! Keep on doing such a great job!

I will follow :-)...


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[T-Jay[TK]]

On 6/15/2019 at 10:54 PM, Moussvroum said:

(...)   I made a big mistake when I tried to glue the clear lens with cynolite. The vapor have destroyed the lens. (...) Looking for an idea to fix it.   (...)

 

Sorry to hear this. I guess all you can do is using fine sandpaper, then a very fine sandpaper, then a very very fine one and polishing paste at the end.

We've seen people here on FISD scratch-building this domed window from a piece of plexiglass.

[Moussvroum]

Thank Tino. Will try. 

Have you an idea to fix it without altering it ? May be a little dot of hot glue ?

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

I had this same exact issue, David.  CA glue releases fumes which fogged it up, so I ended up wet-sanding it with super fine (3000 grit) sand paper until it was fairly clear.  After that, I used the Novus scratch removal paste to get it clear.   https://www.ebay.com/p/Novus-1-2-3-Plastic-Polish-Set-Scratch-Remover-Cleaner/1231451712?iid=400082797682

It probably seems like a waste of money to buy the Novus set rather than buy a new lens, but it sure comes in handy for armor as well.

 

I ended up attaching it using plain old Elmer's glue around the edges, applied with a toothpick.  Dries clear, holds great.

[Sly11[Admin]]

The wet n dry fine grit as Joseph has mentioned will do the trick initially, but if you have a Dremmel with the buffing attachment and a tiny dab of cutting compound it will come up like brand new.

Ive made a few E-11 lenses for mates here in Australia and even with rough saw marks from cutting up the perspex into pieces, those two have always done the trick.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

5 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Sorry to hear this. I guess all you can do is using fine sandpaper, then a very fine sandpaper, then a very very fine one and polishing paste at the end.

We've seen people here on FISD scratch-building this domed window from a piece of plexiglass.

Hey David another solution would be to find a local plastics shop in your area and just replace the material. Couldn't be more than a couple bucks. I use Tap Plastics.

 

Good luck no matter which direction you decide to take. Keep up the great work.

[T-Jay[TK]]

3 hours ago, Moussvroum said:

Thank Tino. Will try. 

Have you an idea to fix it without altering it ? May be a little dot of hot glue ?

Not sure if hot glue will do the trick, but Joseph, Andrew and Tony already provided helpful comments. If you are looking for a different way, you can get a ruler with integrated line-magnifier like this for example. I have seen counter windows being made from this as well.

[Moussvroum]

Thank you all for these good advices !

I've wet-sanded it with super fine sand paper + water and after that I used a dremel with cutting compound. The result is better. But I'm not totaly satisfied. Will try to use novus (I've some for my TK helmets).

Anyway, I've ordered another lens to Chris yesterday.

 

 

Edited June 19, 2019 by Moussvroum

[Moussvroum]

On 5/30/2019 at 8:34 PM, Moussvroum said:

Chris told me today that he sent me a new screw. This man is really a great guy !

Chris sent me a new screw for the handle but I was unable to insert it in his hole. After measuring, I realized the screw was too big for the hole.

I rebuild the thread (M6 diameter) and the screw. Before that, I tested my method on the screw I’ve destroyed (it is in aluminum so it’s easy). Et voilà !

Don't know if US thread are different from European one ?

 

 

There is a little hole near the “S” selector but I’ve no screw for it. I don’t know if a screw is missing or if it’s just … a hole. No screw on Fieldmarshall pictures. What is this hole for ? Any idea ?

Edited June 20, 2019 by Moussvroum

[T K[501st]]

That is really odd... On my original Sterling there is no hole there..

 

 

I personally would fill it.

Edited June 20, 2019 by T K
Fixed picture

[ukswrath[Staff]]

2 hours ago, Moussvroum said:

Don't know if US thread are different from European one ?

 

Metric (non-US), Standard (US) and yes they differ just enough to get most folks in trouble if they don't know any better lol.

 

Keep up the awesome work  

[T-Jay[TK]]

15 hours ago, Moussvroum said:

(...)   There is a little hole near the “S” selector but I’ve no screw for it. I don’t know if a screw is missing or if it’s just … a hole. No screw on Fieldmarshall pictures. What is this hole for ? Any idea ?  

Was wondering about that exact same thing. Original Sterlings don't seem to have this. Maybe Fieldmarshall's reference had it...?!

In the trigger group there is another hole and it looks like both have to be aligned. But that would only make sense, if you had a countersunk screw to add there. Maybe it got lost in transit, or is so small that it hides inside another item from this kit. There is currently not much experience with building this kit, because your thread is the first one I am aware of, reaching this point. So I would suggest to double-check with Chris (@fieldmarshall). He should know.

Edited June 21, 2019 by T-Jay

[Moussvroum]

Chris told me it was a mistake. It used to be a mount point but it wasn't needed. I have to fill it. 

[Moussvroum]

Today I corrected a minor default on the handle.

 

 

I’m asking myself a lot of question about the paint. This part is for me the more difficult because I’ve two left hands in painting ...

I’m planning to use a flat black. I saw some people use a stone fine texture charcoal. Some don’t. Still don’t know what to do …

[T-Jay[TK]]

12 hours ago, Moussvroum said:

(...)   I’m asking myself a lot of question about the paint. This part is for me the more difficult because I’ve two left hands in painting ...

I’m planning to use a flat black. I saw some people use a stone fine texture charcoal. Some don’t. Still don’t know what to do …

Maybe chapter #28 (Painting) helps.

And here is how I did it in my last posted build.

[Moussvroum]

On 6/24/2019 at 11:25 AM, T-Jay said:

And here is how I did it in my last posted build. 

Thanks Tino. You're an artist !

[Moussvroum]

On 5/31/2019 at 1:15 PM, T-Jay said:

Quick question: when Chris @fieldmarshall uploaded the first pictures of the main receiver tube, I noticed relatively large welding seams on the flash guard and the ejector port guard. Do you think these can be trimmed or sanded down? Or would it become to fragile?

I've made some photos for you. I think I won't try to trim the flash guard and the ejector port guard

 

 

I’ve assembled the rear sight and the end cap clip (haven't understand what is it for until now ).

 

 

Screws go beyond in the receiver. I’ll trim them (grew arrows). But I can’t trim the screws which maintains the connection between the folding stock and the receiver (red arrows). I can unscrew them, insert the bolt and screw again. But the bolt can’t move in the receiver.

It seems that the solution is to solder the folding stock connection. Any other tip ?

 

 

[T-Jay[TK]]

Thanks for the close-up photos, David. I wish these welds were on the other side, but I guess that is much more difficult during production.

 

12 hours ago, Moussvroum said:

(...)   the end cap clip (haven't understand what is it for until now ).    (...)

The T-shaped part prevents your end cap from twisting and unintentionally releasing. By pressing on the patterned bottom end, the other end is raised and space created for the end cap. Here is a short video clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l72kvNbmnac&feature=youtu.be

 

12 hours ago, Moussvroum said:

(...)   I can’t trim the screws which maintains the connection between the folding stock and the receiver (red arrows). I can unscrew them, insert the bolt and screw again. But the bolt can’t move in the receiver. It seems that the solution is to solder the folding stock connection. Any other tip ?

 

After the blaster is complete (including paint), you will most likely never again have to disassemble this section. So, a permanent connection (like solder or glue) can be used.

[Moussvroum]

Thank you Tino.

What kind of glue should I use with aluminum parts ?

Edited July 1, 2019 by Moussvroum

[T-Jay[TK]]

Not sure what types of glue are available in France, but if you do a quick google-search for "gluing aluminum" it should bring some useful results. I guess you will find some kind of universal glue, as well as two-component glues. Also double-check, if you really need to bond aluminum to aluminum, or maybe steel to aluminum.

 

Keep us updated, because this might also be of interest for other people with the same blaster kit in the future.

Edited July 1, 2019 by T-Jay

[fieldmarshall]

On 6/30/2019 at 3:35 PM, Moussvroum said:

I've made some photos for you. I think I won't try to trim the flash guard and the ejector port guard

 

 

I’ve assembled the rear sight and the end cap clip (haven't understand what is it for until now ).

 

 

Screws go beyond in the receiver. I’ll trim them (grew arrows). But I can’t trim the screws which maintains the connection between the folding stock and the receiver (red arrows). I can unscrew them, insert the bolt and screw again. But the bolt can’t move in the receiver.

It seems that the solution is to solder the folding stock connection. Any other tip ?

 

 

those screws work really well stopping people from slamming the bolt back.....    if you decide to blaze that part on be careful i did that on my early ones.. it can warp the tube and make it hard to get the bolt in ......   It a blaster not a sterling doing a full weenie and releasing the bolt forward will destroy the barrel and front sight ...  just thought id share

that.....

Edited July 2, 2019 by fieldmarshall

[Moussvroum]

Chris, you're right ! Your kit is so good that I forget it's just a replica and not a real one 

Edited July 3, 2019 by Moussvroum

[Moussvroum]

Does anyone know how to assemble the visor ? It move on the sides ... 

I've asked Chris.

Edited July 4, 2019 by Moussvroum

[fieldmarshall]

The screw your using in the back should go in where the sight is first,,,,  that is the locking set screw it does not go in the back....  then used the smaller set screw to go in the side of the sight block to loc the blade down...