TKNick8350 Posted August 8, 2019 Author Report Posted August 8, 2019 Is it necessary to add a return edge on to the extended kidney plate? Shimming and adding a 3 inches to my kidney plate. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 9, 2019 Report Posted August 9, 2019 1 hour ago, TKNick8350 said: Is it necessary to add a return edge on to the extended kidney plate? Shimming and adding a 3 inches to my kidney plate. No, nor is it a requirement. Quote
TKNick8350 Posted August 11, 2019 Author Report Posted August 11, 2019 So I’m heading out to see The Lion King, this is what I have as of right now. The extended plate is at 3 1/2 inches for now because I want make proper measurements towards my final cut. The only part glued in is the shim. I used Trooperbays abs plates. I wished I was a little smarter keeping the scrap. But his abs is thick as you see in the picture. This is the material I will be using, plastic is easy to sculpt out. To make the material more flushed, wheat grit sand paper should I use and what’s a good finishing grit? should I add a return edge to match kidney and Ab? Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 12, 2019 Report Posted August 12, 2019 "To make the material more flushed, wheat grit sand paper should I use and what’s a good finishing grit? should I add a return edge to match kidney and Ab? " 400 grit and higher. Finishing 1200. Return edge is not required. I personally would reduce the kidney return edge as you get closer to the extension. Keep up the great work Quote
TKNick8350 Posted August 12, 2019 Author Report Posted August 12, 2019 3 hours ago, ukswrath said: "To make the material more flushed, wheat grit sand paper should I use and what’s a good finishing grit? should I add a return edge to match kidney and Ab? " 400 grit and higher. Finishing 1200. Return edge is not required. I personally would reduce the kidney return edge as you get closer to the extension. Keep up the great work something like that? For more flexibility? 2 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 13, 2019 Report Posted August 13, 2019 That will work yes. Not necessarily for flexibility but more to eliminate the square edge from digging into your ribs and waist. Quote
TKNick8350 Posted August 15, 2019 Author Report Posted August 15, 2019 Test fit tonight, thanks to my love. We did our best to level the kidney the Ab plate tonight after dinner. (Above) As you can see on this picture the tape shifted. Left side ^ We measured about two inches on both sides. But I’m thinking I should have it to possibly 2 1/2 inches to 3. The tape shows it at 3, but it’s at 2. Below, the picture shows that I have gaps from my straps from Mr No Strips. Wondering what I can do with that issue, but no problem with the front straps. Also, my back plate is digging in to me. And my collar on my front chest plate is cracking, should some of these edges be taken off with the level 2 to 3 centurion? I want to be very comfortable on troops, as well as making it screen accurate. Stress cracks. “Nooooooooooooooooooooo”- Darth Vader Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted August 15, 2019 Report Posted August 15, 2019 15 hours ago, TKNick8350 said: Below, the picture shows that I have gaps from my straps from Mr No Strips No worries, you´re screen accurate. I would try to level that gap though by shortening the elastic or maybe it´s just a matter of your posture. 15 hours ago, TKNick8350 said: Also, my back plate is digging in to me. Trimming and if that´s not enough - trim and a hoth bath. (trim lines are not precise) 15 hours ago, TKNick8350 said: And my collar on my front chest plate is cracking, should some of these edges be taken off with the level 2 to 3 centurion? I want to be very comfortable on troops, as well as making it screen accurate. You are clear to trim Quote
kman[TK] Posted August 16, 2019 Report Posted August 16, 2019 The curve in on the shoulders of the Anovos backplate is insane. Only the smallest troopers, who can literally let it rest on top of their shoulders, are going to be happy with the stock curve. I'd highly recommend removing some return edge, and giving the nubs a hot water bath to straighten them a bit. Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted August 17, 2019 Report Posted August 17, 2019 You have the option of removing some of the return edge from the chest (and back) plate or all of it. Anovos armor is famous for cracking in these areas, as well as the in the neck openings. Whether you opt to remove some or all of it, I suggest adding some inside shims made of scrap ABS in those areas. You can remove all of them and still be screen accurate: (Note lack of return edge on the top of the kidneys as well). Reference images Quote
TKNick8350 Posted August 20, 2019 Author Report Posted August 20, 2019 Working on the kidney. I also worked on removing the neck return edge and reshaping the back plate with all of everyone’s help! Thank you all! I posted this on the Anovos group page. Hoping to not get a snarky response which I do get from time to time. I have some pitting where both kidney and sheet meet. Should I continue to use abs paste or use bondo? I was thinking of using tamiya liquid surface primer as a filler. I have used this stuff with my model building and fills in gap really nicely, but I’m not sure how it will behave with movement. Or only it’s a filler, it’s white and if needed to paint, it won’t show as much as the bondo would with it’s brick like color. Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted August 20, 2019 Report Posted August 20, 2019 I found using ABS paste gives you a little more strength and is less likely to crack, where as filler (bondo) cracks very easily with flex 1 Quote
TKNick8350 Posted October 7, 2019 Author Report Posted October 7, 2019 (edited) So it has been 8/20 since my last post and yes, still fighting the kidney plate. I’m having issue with these small pits forming. I have filled them in at least more than four times and they are still there. Right side of Anovos Kidney Pits. Left side. More pits. I am at this point stuck. The paste is not working. I let the paste sit more than 48 hours, like a week or two so it can be cured as can be. Sand it down, and just to see more eyes sores on my progress on this build. What’s the alternative now? Edited October 7, 2019 by TKNick8350 Quote
kman[TK] Posted October 14, 2019 Report Posted October 14, 2019 Personally, I wouldn't worry about it beyond this point. That looks "smooth enough" to my eye. The bigger issue might be the color shift, since you weren't able to match the Anovos white-ish coloring. (no one really can) Perhaps our judges can opine as to what should be done at this point, assuming you're trying to get to Centurion? You're more than ready for general approval, IMO, and possibly even EIB. (assuming the rest of the build is complete, of course) Quote
TKNick8350 Posted October 18, 2019 Author Report Posted October 18, 2019 On 10/14/2019 at 1:21 PM, kman said: Personally, I wouldn't worry about it beyond this point. That looks "smooth enough" to my eye. The bigger issue might be the color shift, since you weren't able to match the Anovos white-ish coloring. (no one really can) Perhaps our judges can opine as to what should be done at this point, assuming you're trying to get to Centurion? You're more than ready for general approval, IMO, and possibly even EIB. (assuming the rest of the build is complete, of course) Thanks for your response. I was thinking of at this point, using white milliput and filling those pockets, sanding it smooth, and hopefully if anyone has the custom match, send out a sample so I can get it matched at a Napa automotive paint store. And with my ocd, lol I might need to reinforce the inner armor with my obsessive sanding, that there is some light bleeding through the armor. I know that will be a easy fix since I can either T-shirt and super glue, or hobbytown sells fiberglass strips in the RC section and that’s simple to work with. I was going to build a centurion, but I can opt with EIB and later turn this to centurion down the road. Unless the “court” allows this. I don’t know how strict the Central California Garrison/ South Valley Squad is when it comes to this blemish on my armor. I just want to move on from this phase and get to strapping. Here’s the light bleeding through the armor, and that’s the shim poking through. Quote
ABS80 Posted October 18, 2019 Report Posted October 18, 2019 (edited) I specifically extented my Ab and Kidney plate molds to accommodate most size waist without shimming and can be trimmed down to your perfect waist size In the photo showing two built Torso's one on the left was for a 41" waist and the other 46" these are actual waist size at belly button level not pants size but can fit up to 48" waist Edited October 18, 2019 by ABS80 Quote
kman[TK] Posted October 18, 2019 Report Posted October 18, 2019 4 hours ago, ABS80 said: I specifically extented my Ab and Kidney plate molds to accommodate most size waist without shimming and can be trimmed down to your perfect waist size In the photo showing two built Torso's one on the left was for a 41" waist and the other 46" these are actual waist size at belly button level not pants size but can fit up to 48" waist If only your armor's color matched Anovos, it would be a no-brainer to swap parts for yours. But since he has Anovos, there's only the stock size to work with, so shims are needed. 1 Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted October 18, 2019 Report Posted October 18, 2019 5 hours ago, TKNick8350 said: It is a pain with the color difference, ABS paste can leave some pitting, I've only shimmed a couple of commission builds but I have managed to fill the pitting with bondo (auto filler) and then prime and color match by eye, bit of trial and error but makes it easy when you have air brush and can mix the paint yourself, manage to fade the paint out around the curve so it's not as noticeable and then polish. Hopefully the auto paint shop will be able to color match for you. Quote
TKNick8350 Posted October 19, 2019 Author Report Posted October 19, 2019 17 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said: It is a pain with the color difference, ABS paste can leave some pitting, I've only shimmed a couple of commission builds but I have managed to fill the pitting with bondo (auto filler) and then prime and color match by eye, bit of trial and error but makes it easy when you have air brush and can mix the paint yourself, manage to fade the paint out around the curve so it's not as noticeable and then polish. Hopefully the auto paint shop will be able to color match for you. I can attempt this with an airbrush. What paints did you use? I’m thinking RC paints would stick better and flexes with the clear car body while on the chassis. I can attempt this! Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted October 19, 2019 Report Posted October 19, 2019 5 hours ago, TKNick8350 said: I can attempt this with an airbrush. What paints did you use? I’m thinking RC paints would stick better and flexes with the clear car body while on the chassis. I can attempt this! I normally use automotive acrylic paint, dries fast and goes on in thin coats, easy to polish also. I have use enamel (hobby) paint before it just takes a while to dry. Can help if you have any scrap abs or plastic sheet you can practice on to match. Hope it works out, good luck Quote
TKNick8350 Posted November 5, 2019 Author Report Posted November 5, 2019 (edited) Happy November everyone..I have finally completed my kidney plate on a positive note but, I believe this will sadly not be acceptable as an ESB Trooper. I ended up getting a filler used for abs bumpers to fill in the pitting and it did what the abs couldn’t do. I then wet sanded it down with a fine sand paper I gotten at Auto Zone. 320, 400 and 600 was used. I picked up a rattle can of Rustoleum 2x gloss white. Sprayed lightly and gotten this. As you can see, the raw plastic and painted section is off. But...if you end up weathering the part that was fix, it will not show up as much. Sadly this might be my last thread for the ESB trooper I wanted to build. I believe I’m better off as a TD. So it’s off for me to get the strapping done. Edited November 5, 2019 by TKNick8350 1 Quote
troopermaster Posted November 5, 2019 Report Posted November 5, 2019 6 hours ago, TKNick8350 said: Sadly this might be my last thread for the ESB trooper I wanted to build. I believe I’m better off as a TD. Is your choice of going TD because of the result of your shimming work? Quote
Sly11[Admin] Posted November 5, 2019 Report Posted November 5, 2019 Hmm, looking at your last photo I would say you have done a great job. If there is a drastic difference it's certainly only showing as minor in your photo. The ABS has a slight cream tone compared to the white Rustoleum. Well done I say. Quote
TheSwede[TK] Posted November 5, 2019 Report Posted November 5, 2019 What ^^ said, based on that photo your work is Centurion-worthy so keep that ESB dream alive Quote
TKNick8350 Posted November 5, 2019 Author Report Posted November 5, 2019 6 hours ago, Sly11 said: Hmm, looking at your last photo I would say you have done a great job. If there is a drastic difference it's certainly only showing as minor in your photo. The ABS has a slight cream tone compared to the white Rustoleum. Well done I say. The abs on the plastic is milky while the Rustoleum is bright white. I did my best to feather it. It’s looks odd. But looks great! Quote
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