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Posted

I prefer elastic just allows some movement when bending and stretching, just use the industrial type elastic it's a little thicker than standard elastic. If you loop it over the belt while trial fitting then you can permanently sew in place once you are happy with the positioning.

  • Like 1
Posted

I got some work done on the back of the armour.  Being too impatient to use e6000, I tried gluing the nylon strapping on some test scraps of ABS using CA, epoxy, ABS glue and hot glue.  I'm not normally a fan of using hot glue, but it held the best by far. It melted into the nylon and bonded very wealthy abs. The other three stuck fine to the ABS, but didn't bond as well to the nylon.  

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Posted

The ony issues to worry about is heat from the glue and if you need to swap them out at a later stage due to strapping stretching/adjustment or the need to replace snaps. Having enough clamps, magnets and tape can help when adding E6000 and internal strapping. 

 

If it works for you all good but I'd suggest the longer way for longevity of the costume, 7 years of trooping and I've had to swap out a few snaps over the years ;) 

Posted

I use canvas to strap thighs to my garter belt.  I like to pull them really tight personally and the nylon doesn't wear out as bad as the elastic would.

 

You could try cutting an extra piece of ABS to "sandwich" the nylon with E6000 if bonding is an issue.  Also lightly sanding the area it'll be glued to rough it up might help it bond better.

 

Like @gmrhodes13 said, think long term if you can... I've had to completely restrap mine once already in 3 years, and probably coming up on a second one soon.  :) 

Posted

Good point; I hadn't considered the nylon or snaps wearing out.  I accidentally glued one upside down and had to remove it, so I know it can be done if need be.  I cut the glue with an X-Acto blade.  I did scuff up the ABS to give it some tooth before gluing.  I was just trying to find something quicker than e6000, not that I found it didn't bond well.  This brings me to my next question.  What glue will work for the silicone handguards on the rubber gloves?

Posted

I've temporarily fitted the left side with machine screws while I'm getting things to fit. When I install the split rivets do they need to be functional, or can the internal strapping have snaps?  I'd like the front and back to be separable, if possible, for storage and transportation purposes.

 

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Posted

They don´t need to be functional, here´s what I did for my sons TK for it to be seperable.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Daniel.  Putting the rivet through a snap is exactly what I was thinking of doing.  I like the strain relief you put on the other side; I'll copy that too. :)

Edited by Skookumshot
  • Like 1
Posted

I have snaps under mine, this was mainly for air transport so I could completely pull apart the clamshell to make the armor pieces fit into each other, but as mentioned they don't need to be functional.

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Posted

Could you show the outside if the ”Han-snap?

It should be chrome/silver and not gun metal. If so you will need to replace it for Centurion. EIB in fine at the moment but I expect that to change in the near future. And just an FYI the lover snap on the right side isn’t really needed as the belt keep that closed and a bonus by not having it means less hazzle to suit up:)

Other than that - great work:duim:

Posted

Here's a picture of the outside. Tandy Leather was clearing out the gunmetal snaps, so I grabbed a bunch. I went with silver on the outside and gunmetal on the inside because it would bother me if one looked different from the rest. ;)

 

Thanks for pointing out the bottom snap. The nice thing about snaps is I can leave it off and have a spare strap for the top. I see some people have made a slot and tab for the right side; I may do that. 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Skookumshot said:

I went with silver on the outside and gunmetal on the inside because it would bother me if one looked different from the rest.

One of those rare moments when building Stormtrooper armor and OCD went hand in hand:smiley-sw013:

Posted

Nice work the same as I do except I prefer using elastic, just allows a little give when moving and bending. 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Skookumshot said:

Thanks guys.  They are doubled up elastic.

Wow weird ridges in the elastic thought they where Velcro, we don't see that type of elastic down under. Doubling over is definitely the way to go with high stress points, shoulder bridges to bells is another area that needs them. 

Posted (edited)

It's called non roll elastic.  I had never seen it before I ordered it.  It's supposed to stay flat and not curl up on the sides.

Here's a link:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004ALJMSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited by Skookumshot
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Test fitting.

 

For a while I thought there was no way this thing is going to fit, but it's starting to come together. 

 

I used velcro instead of snaps in a couple of spots so that I could make adjustments.  I don't know how to work long-term, but when I have the perfect fit I can use the velcro as templates for snaps.

 

My undersuit is a little baggy. I was 35 lbs heavier when I got it. 

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Edited by Skookumshot
  • Like 1
Posted

Nice job so far. 

Also, another positive story i hear quite often, losing weight to fit into a costume. Congrats.

Posted

I lost the bulk of the weight 5 years ago (after I got the thermal underwear), but it had crept up a bit again.  When I ordered the armour I told Mark I weighed 15 lbs more than I was, as incentive.  It worked. 

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