Dark brimstone[TK] Posted April 5, 2019 Report Posted April 5, 2019 (edited) So I have been receiving lots of parts for my build, I decided to go with a rubber blaster from Praetorian. The quality is nice but I decided to weather and paint it myself. I still have some touch-up that I need to do on it. I would like to replace the small screws on the scope with real ones does anyone know the correct screw type and size? I also plan to put lenses in the scope, and numbers on the counter I am unsure of the correct script for them. any feedback on the paint is most welcome, please let me know what I need to do to make it look more accurate. Edited April 5, 2019 by Dark brimstone Quote
Frank75139[501st] Posted April 5, 2019 Report Posted April 5, 2019 Paint looks great. Nice job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted April 5, 2019 Report Posted April 5, 2019 Nice work, can't quite make out the handle but that wouldn't have any weathering, The grip from the original Sterlings was some kind of black plastic, which can be recreated with semi gloss or gloss black paint. Here's some info on screw sizes https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31442-m38-scope-screws/ and https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37894-scope-front-screws/ Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted April 6, 2019 Report Posted April 6, 2019 In addition to what Glen mentioned you might want to blacken the scope, a has a bit too much brass showing. Other than that it looks great 1 Quote
Dark brimstone[TK] Posted April 6, 2019 Author Report Posted April 6, 2019 So I think I may not be looking at screws it may be where pins were placed in the scope. I thought the 2 screws (pins) placed close to the front lens in this picture didn't look right.I repainted the scope as suggested. Better, worse? let me know thanks. I think the light may also be putting a shine on the black because it is so bright and until I seal the paint matte that will happen. Quote
wook1138[TK] Posted April 8, 2019 Report Posted April 8, 2019 Nice! The scope looks better. You could tone down the brass colour on the hengstler a bit. I'm not entirely sure, but I think the back half of the counter wasn't the same metal used for the front half - in fact, it might have been plastic. Best to have one of our e-ll experts chime in. Looks like you may have already seen this, but just in case here it is anyways... Quote
Ripper_L[Admin] Posted April 8, 2019 Report Posted April 8, 2019 1 hour ago, wook1138 said: Nice! The scope looks better. You could tone down the brass colour on the hengstler a bit. I'm not entirely sure, but I think the back half of the counter wasn't the same metal used for the front half - in fact, it might have been plastic. Best to have one of our e-ll experts chime in. Looks like you may have already seen this, but just in case here it is anyways... Exactly. One part is out of brass, the other out of grey plastic. So if you want te be really accurate, you should make grey color look through. 1 Quote
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted April 8, 2019 Report Posted April 8, 2019 In my humble opinion, you really don't need to go as severe on the weathering. As the old saying goes. "Sometimes less is more". If you look at many of the blasters in ANH, many (if not most) had a minimal amount of wear and tear. Quote
Dark brimstone[TK] Posted April 9, 2019 Author Report Posted April 9, 2019 Sometimes when I'm making a prop, or costume I like it to tell a story. In this case, I really do want it to say ANH so I will tone down the weathered look a bit more. I'm trying to get a more realistic battle worn look as apposed to a hunk of rubber. I am building to centurion, so I'll do my best to meet expectations. Thanks for the feedback, it is greatly appreciated. Quote
Dark brimstone[TK] Posted April 19, 2019 Author Report Posted April 19, 2019 I'm going to trim all the armor before fitting and assembly. Just to make sure, I am leaving 1/8" return edge on all pieces except the cuff of the forearms and the top of the biceps where return edges are removed. I am trying to build to centurion and don't want to remove anything that needs to be left on. Thanks Quote
Dark brimstone[TK] Posted May 12, 2019 Author Report Posted May 12, 2019 (edited) So I am starting on the armor the bucket first. I would like to know if the gap that I have and the screw positions are correct before I continue. Anything else that I may need to fix would also be helpful thanks. Edited May 12, 2019 by Dark brimstone Quote
LTM[TK] Posted May 13, 2019 Report Posted May 13, 2019 Check out some of the other AM builds to help guide you in the building process. These are recent: Quote
Dark brimstone[TK] Posted May 13, 2019 Author Report Posted May 13, 2019 I have looked at his already thanks. It still doesn't answer my question on my build. Thanks for the reply. Quote
LTM[TK] Posted May 13, 2019 Report Posted May 13, 2019 15 minutes ago, Dark brimstone said: I have looked at his already thanks. It still doesn't answer my question on my build. Thanks for the reply. This is from my submission, just make sure you are in line as mine was not. Quote
Dark brimstone[TK] Posted May 13, 2019 Author Report Posted May 13, 2019 (edited) Thanks, I will remedy that. Edited May 13, 2019 by Dark brimstone Quote
A.J. Hamler[TK] Posted May 14, 2019 Report Posted May 14, 2019 Your ear screws look pretty good and in-line to me; the angle -- at least from what I can tell in the photo -- looks pretty good, too. And the gap on the air is fine. Keep up the good work. A.J. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted May 14, 2019 Report Posted May 14, 2019 On 5/11/2019 at 9:22 PM, Dark brimstone said: So I am starting on the armor the bucket first. I would like to know if the gap that I have and the screw positions are correct before I continue. Anything else that I may need to fix would also be helpful thanks. Minor gaps between the ears and helmet are perfectly acceptable. As Lou mentioned try to align the upper and lower ear screws with the trailing edge of the trap. FYI neither have to be perfect. Quote
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