Is this glue acceptable?

[Shinyarmour1[TK]]

Hey everyone

I have question regarding another option for glue.  This is my first build so natural I was on the lookout for E6000, permanent glue that can still be taken apart from mistakes.  I was looking in a local hardware store for E6000 but could not find any currently in stock, however I did find something else called Weldbond.  Its permanent bond, water resistant, clear and as a bonus, its non-toxic and odourless.  Would Weldbond be a suitable substitute to glue ABS plastic together?  Some glues are permanent and can’t be taken apart, but E6000 is permanent and can be taken apart.  So if anyone knows about this glue or has hands on experience using this glue, please let me know if this would be suitable for my kit.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

I can't recommend that for a first build.  It will work, but if you get it it wrong at all you'll need to order new parts.  It works by melting the plastic so when they dry out again they are literally fused into 1 single piece.

 

It's incredibly strong, but also incredibly unforgiving.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Also, many adhesives (especially the epoxy type and CA"super" glue) can get brittle over time.  E-6000 maintains somewhat of a flexible nature which is important, especially on areas like the front of the calves which get a lot of opening and closing action.

Can I ask where you live?  If in the U.S. it is available at all craft stores and many Wal-Marts.  If you are outside the U.S., note that there are certain online sellers (including Europe) that are selling FAKE E-6000.  The genuine product is clearly marked Made in the USA, and has a batch number on each tube.  They do not sell to distributors in China or Hong Kong, so if you try to save a few bucks by ordering from a seller there, it is probably not the real stuff. If you have any doubts, you can contact the manufacturer at www.eclecticproducts.com, and they will let you know where to get it.  The fake stuff is garbage.

 

 

[Digz Graavz[TK]]

Weldbond is actually like a strong white-glue/wood glue.  It dries VERY hard and will not flex much.

Get E6000.  I looked into alternatives, went E6000, and was very very very glad I did.  I'm in pre-approval and making changes as I tweak my suit.  It's TOTALLY worth it.

[Erice3339[TK]]

I’ll echo what others have said by recommending you stick with E6000. I’m relatively new myself, but I am relieved I went with E6000. I have taken apart my thighs three times now and that would not have been possible with the adhesive you are looking at since it welds the plastic together. 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

2 hours ago, Erice3339 said:

stick with E6000

Good one, Eric!  

[Erice3339[TK]]

6 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

Good one, Eric!  

I kid you not, that pun was completely unintentional. I adhere by it though.

[TK-42134[TK]]

To me, the name Weldbond doesn’t sound like it would be good in a situation where you make a mistake. 

[Shinyarmour1[TK]]

Thanks for the feedback guys.  I am outside of the US, so E6000 is a little difficult to find.  However I did hear about the differences between real and fake E6000.  So I know what to look for when I eventually find the glue (including online). 

 

Thanks again for clearing things up for me.  I'll stay with E6000.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I'm in Australia and we can only get very small tubes here locally, I tend to purchase all of mine tubes (110mm) in lots of 5 or 10 on ebay, works out a lot cheaper.

[sharkbait[TK]]

If you have access/they'll ship to you, Amazon usually has good prices on the real stuff.  (At least, I've never got a fake tube from them, before.  I am US, though.)  I generally buy it there instead of locally (Home Depot) because it's always cheaper, sometimes significantly.  

[Alay[TK]]

I've had some success with 5 minute epoxy too, when E6000 is unavailable.  I would recommend sticking to the rubber glue though for your first build.

[Sly11[Admin]]

Always a safe bet to experiment a little on scap pieces of abs to see how much time you have to move the two parts before the glue bonds. E6000 give miles of flexibility in that respect.

I used CA glue on my first build and a little goes a long way. I think I'm up to 6 kits now where I have used CA whith great success, but always recomend experimentations before using any glue on your armour, not only for practice but to work out how much to actually use as coverage varies from agent to agent.

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

On 2/13/2019 at 4:46 AM, Shinyarmour1 said:

Thanks for the feedback guys.  I am outside of the US, so E6000 is a little difficult to find.  However I did hear about the differences between real and fake E6000.  So I know what to look for when I eventually find the glue (including online). 

 

Thanks again for clearing things up for me.  I'll stay with E6000.

Where about's are you? We may be able to guide you a bit better if we know where in the world you are.

[Shinyarmour1[TK]]

I'm in Australia.  And like gmrhodes13 said ''They can only be purchased in small tubes here''.  So I'll either buy E6000 in small tubes at a local craft store, or online like Amazon.

[p4ntb0y[TK]]

I got e6000 in Japan from Amazon.jp the price was 1500 yen for 109.4 ml Clear in white its 16000 yen!

 

I have 3 tudes..... 1 and bit tubes leftover.. 

 

I also done tie fighter helmet and rebel helmet with this stuff. (Rebel helmet for target practice)

 

Really easy to use and forgiving and easy to clean up! I used the Japanese equivalent that was 500 yen cheaper but was so hard to clean up was strong and flexiable but took far too long to clean compared to e6000

 

pulling this stuff apart and rubbing it off is fun, as its so easy. I have redone several pieces where I would not bother due to the additional work