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Posted (edited)

  A friend is being generous with his time and 3D printer ( prusa ) and will be printing an ANH E-11 Blaster for me.  Files are all from the internet and the end result may or may not be worthy of higher levels.  It will be printed in PLA and using Dichloromethane to smooth and weld pieces together

 

Rayabear original source of files.  There is some details lacking,  noteably the knarl on grip,  that can be replaced with other posts on the same website.  In the comments he mentions refining the models but did not upload those improvements.  Slic3r had some issues with faces and sometimes needed to go with an alternate source.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:957801

alternate source ( basically same files )

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2460290

 

Blaster grip with knarling

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1924136

 

  This is the box of printed parts,  only scope and power rails remain to be painted.  The spring I will make with a hanger or look for other suitable alternatives.

Lwbrjrl.jpg

Edited by husky68
  • Like 1
Posted

A bit late in the printing,  but I found this thread today which does have some files to consider for possible improved accuracy.

 

 

 

Posted

Also from a comment and internet search I just found this site with what looks to be accurate files from Raymond Herbert (Rayabear from above thingiverse).

 

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-star-wars-storm-trooper-blastech-e-11-blaster-rifle-by-blaster-master-72283

 

Might have to show some appreciation and use the support me function of this website at the end of my project.

Posted

Got a delivery today of Methylene Chloride ( dichloro methane ), also known as ジクロロメタン, which is to PLA as acetone is to ABS.  So this should serve both to smooth out parts and chemically weld them together.  Of course tests will be done on scraps before anything is applied to the good parts.

 

EclurIT.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Cool, I'd be interested to see the results as have considered trying this myself on a PLA print. Hopefully you can maintain good detail, so please post up photos once you have experimented.

  • Like 1
Posted

 I've got my box of PLA plastic and taken the time to lay it all out and cut away some of the supports.  Thankfully from one of the links mentioned previously I found a build instruction PDF that helps both to identify and walk through the process of assembly.  Although some of my parts are slightly different the guide will be enough to get started.  I'll return to my TK build,  blaster not required for membership,  but will try to test Methylene Chloride for smoothing and welding on junk pieces soon.

 

FE6Lg9S.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

  I did a small test of the  dichloro methane and it made a junk piece of PLA both smooth and added a bit of shine.  For welding pieces together I was able to join some flat junk pieces together so it shows some promise as a glue.  Another test on more junk pieces and I should be ready to start joining the real thing.

 

  Also the cheap brushes leave bristles in the PLA that if not removed become permanent.  Went to the store and bought some better brushes. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Two rings become one.  Unable to pull them apart,  stronger together than they were individually.  Appears dichloro will make a fine chemical weld for the blaster.

7QQDL69.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Went to Tokyo Disneyland and picked up some new swag

 

T1lPoSJ.jpg

 

  The popcorn bucket is added to the already purchased R2-D2 and BB-8 buckets.  The blaster has 2 light and sound modes,  which is fun to play with, for only 2,500yen ( about $23USD).  There is build logs existing showing some nice mod work which I might follow to make this a backup and more kid-friendly blaster for non-canon events.  Will still focus on accuracy for my 3D printed blaster. I even have some spare parts that might find a use for this blaster.

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

I used the electronics from one of these blasters to install in me F-11D. Good cheap option. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

With some sunlight on the patio I was able to get in the well ventilated space and use the dichloro methane to join the two first major pieces.  I also brushed down the entire joined piece making it a bit smoother.

 

N0jNK8j.jpg

 

  I'll give it some time to really set before moving forward.  Also smoothed the next piece of the barrel to be connected.  The bolt slides too far into the barrel,  past the charging handle hole if it is not in place,  so I will need to put something inside to stop it at the right spot.  Once this is done I will complete the barrel and continue with the build.

 

Also in my spare parts I have a muzzle tip and Hengstler counter which I will likely use on the Disney blaster.

Edited by husky68
  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

  With my armor getting closer to completion and the upcoming Tokyo Comic-Con I decided to return to the blaster project.  Got a chance to meet up with Brian (Bulldog44) and spent a couple hours cleaning and chemical welding some of the parts together.  There was one piece that must have been warped by the Tokyo summer heat but thankfully a backup piece existed.  Once more is done I will post up some additional pictures.

 

  The black scope in the picture is one of Brian's resin casted ones,  the scale and detail of the 3D printed one is clearly not as fine from the plans I used.

 

yWKhz9U.jpg?1

  • Like 2
Posted

Almost there with this. A bit more sanding on some parts to get them to fit, attach and its ready for paint. Keep on pushing forward! The finish line is within sight!

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Cleaning up parts and putting some of them together.  Using chemical bonding is both instant and almost irreversible so taking my time with everything.

 

MJwn6JU.jpg

 

90vXlPM.jpg

 

I made the trigger static,  but to make it more solid.

 

TTf1kcd.jpg

 

VzSMOTl.jpg

 

f9sn017.jpg?1

 

vKc9wqQ.jpg

 

The D-ring is not connected and can swing freely.  Will need to carefully paint it so it does not get stuck.

L2l92rG.jpg

 

I will likely try to put my TK number in the counter,  already have a number plate to cut and place inside.

tT7aVOm.jpg

 

The mag needs to be sanded down a little more to fit inside,  but should't be a problem.

fS6FCly.jpg

Edited by husky68
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Put in some more work on my blaster,  need to have it finished for the 22nd when I go to my first troop at Tokyo Comic-Con.

 

Made the folding stock a solid piece.

mkwrPLi.jpg

 

Used pin for positioning and set the back pivot point.  This is best to give me a reference of locating other parts.

s5icoHg.jpg

 

Testing the t-rail placement

EgvLcR6.jpg

 

Installed the rest of them

xvLLgPN.jpg

 

Also put on the flash guard

Nk3x6gF.jpg

 

  I've found a new set of 3D parts from Trooper96,  the detail looks amazing and might need to be a future project.  It was uploaded in July which is months after my parts were finished and delivered.  I'm having a friend print a new scope rail, front sight and rear sight for me from this plan.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Good progress.  :duim:

Did you glue the T-tracks to the receiver tube at this stage? Depending on your plans to paint the receiver, this can be much easier without the T-tracks attached.

Posted

Chemical welded but not a lot of contact. I was just going to hit all of it with same black spray. Why?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
3 minutes ago, husky68 said:

(...)   I was just going to hit all of it with same black spray. Why?

Well, in that case it does not matter. It only gets tricky, if you want the blaster to have a structured surface like the originals (wrinkle paint).

The T-tracks were made from extruded plastic and did not have any structure. Some builders accentuate this in using different spray paints on these parts.

  • Like 1
Posted

The files I had printed lacked some detail and the recently mentioned upload by Trooper96 makes me feel this will only be my first blaster.  Given some details are already lacking, my next blaster I will aim to be more accurate to the originals.

 

I'll do the best I can with what I have and improve with the next one.

Posted

No worries Robert. Don't feel pushed. Just wanted to mention this, in case you would go for a 2-tone paintjob.

  • Like 1
Posted

Working on placement with as much references as I can get.  Started with the rail and rear sight,  had to cut down the rail from a different plan to work with this plan.  Then adding scope and counter trying to match the blueprint image from e-11 reference thread.

pj8bUqq.jpg

 

Placement of the clip was also a concern and from images hard to exactly tell,  although I know it would feet into the barrel a certain spot on a real SMG.

 

UTmzzID.jpg

 

Then placement of the handle seemed straight forward but saw a little bit of variance in sources.  Hoped that my placement would be good.

 

8UKmPbJ.jpg

 

Adding all the final small pieces and smoothing out print lines leaves the blaster ready to paint.  I decide to fix the bolt in place and have the whole blaster static,  maybe my next one will be fancier with working selector and sprint.

 

GhdJUSw.jpgXlISeM0.jpg

 

And finally late at night in the bike parking space I hit the blaster with the first light layer of spray paint.  It makes an amazing transformation from white to black and goes from plastic to Rebel nightmare in seconds.  Leaving it to dry overnight in the morning I can see some missed spots and will keep hitting it with light layers until it is ready for trooping.

 

Xmk7CYu.jpgxgO44p1.jpg

 

  Once the layers are all done and the end cap with spring added I will post a review.

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, husky68 said:

Working on placement with as much references as I can get.  Started with the rail and rear sight,  had to cut down the rail from a different plan to work with this plan.  Then adding scope and counter trying to match the blueprint image from e-11 reference thread.

pj8bUqq.jpg

 

Placement of the clip was also a concern and from images hard to exactly tell,  although I know it would feet into the barrel a certain spot on a real SMG.

 

UTmzzID.jpg

 

Then placement of the handle seemed straight forward but saw a little bit of variance in sources.  Hoped that my placement would be good.

 

8UKmPbJ.jpg

 

Adding all the final small pieces and smoothing out print lines leaves the blaster ready to paint.  I decide to fix the bolt in place and have the whole blaster static,  maybe my next one will be fancier with working selector and sprint.

 

GhdJUSw.jpgXlISeM0.jpg

 

And finally late at night in the bike parking space I hit the blaster with the first light layer of spray paint.  It makes an amazing transformation from white to black and goes from plastic to Rebel nightmare in seconds.  Leaving it to dry overnight in the morning I can see some missed spots and will keep hitting it with light layers until it is ready for trooping.

 

Xmk7CYu.jpgxgO44p1.jpg

 

  Once the layers are all done and the end cap with spring added I will post a review.

Excellent work to get this done. Looking good and almost ready to start taking out rebels for sure. 

Detailing the bolt and some weathering can take it even further but you can add that as you go along. 

Well done and can't wait to see it in action this coming week. :duim:

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