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Posted (edited)

  Ended up being home today so cleaned the sink and filled it with boiling water.  Tested with some scraps first from Brian then started with one of my forearms.  Going slow I started to see improvement in the shape I needed but at the same time the front inner strips started to weaken.  These were the first strips I did before scoring with a knife, waiting 2 minutes before putting pieces together and drying for 48 hours.  The back inner pieces held firm but soon the inner front gave way.  So I was only able to get some curve change in one in the right direction.

 

  Pulled the loose strips open,  even taking one completely off,  and started cleaning old glue up.  Started gluing them back together and hope it holds,  might even fill trenches and put on cover strips before next attempt at hot bath.

 

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Edited by husky68
Posted (edited)

  I'm still here!  In fact I have a goal of doing something small each night to keep this train on track for joining the 501st.  It is amazing how long this takes with too much over thinking and lots of do overs from mistakes.  Best to learn now before I tackle the legs and the dreaded sniper plate.

 

  Still working on forearms but getting closer to finishing them.  Waiting on third cover stip and then one more left,  which includes a small trench fill strip trimmed to fit the gap.  After this I will leave them for a while to get fully cured before taping them up for hot bath reshaping.  TD got a second coat so might put that together in the mean time or get started on strips for thighs.

 

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Edited by husky68
  • Like 1
Posted

Slow and steady wins the race! Good to see you are keeping a pace. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

While I wait for some glue to dry I decided to check the thermal detonator length.  Somewhere I got my numbers off and the length is 10mm longer than I expected.  So out comes the knife and I take 5mm off each end.

 

VQYliMj.jpg

 

  Then I tried to hot bath the middle panel but could not seem to make it relax.  At one point the heat let it curl in more which was opposite of what I wanted.  After a lot more slow and careful tries I got it back to starting point and decided that was enough for today.

Edited by husky68
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Finally filled the sink with boiling water again and reshaped the forearms.  Filling only enough to cover one side at a time,  with getting strips too wet,  I was able to bend the halves flatter which is still tight on the arm but can be put on and worn reasonably comfortably.  Likely tighter than suggested by others and putting in a strap may not be needed but they can now be worn. Still need to trim down the cover strips.

 

DIEFgvU.jpg

 

Also I got tired of failing at improving the curve of the TD panel so I gave it one last attempt with hot bath and then just glued it down.  Used clamps and elastics, tip from Brian on the elastics, and got it to keep the edges down.  Dry fitting the caps on the ends without glue I can see that I am at 190.5 matching the CRL,  but the space between caps and panel is 13mm on left and 14mm on right so one side could use a slight trim to get the spacing identical.

 

uF6iodA.jpg

 

  I've just noticed that the clips provided from AP are not bend to match the tube and will need some adjustments.  I  will have to research or ask around for the best approach to take for reshaping them.

  • Like 1
Posted

I didn’t bother reshaping mine. Changing the curve of both clips proved very tricky without the proper tools. The only thing I ended up doing was adding a little bend to the end of the clips.

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Keep up the great work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Yep, I too screwed the AP clips on the TD just as they are, and added the little bend like Wook suggested. :) They’ll do just fine!

Keep it up!! Glad your forearms are feeling more comfortable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Put on some of the armor,  missing some straps on arms and sides but just to get a look at the progress.  The picture is also from a low angle with camera on chair.

 

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Bells are pulling hard on the shoulder elastic,  might have to lengthen it.

 

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Also I have started on the left thigh with the front inner and outer strip.

 

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Posted

Yeah, try Andrew's suggestion.  You don't want the shoulder bells to be too far from the should bridge.  You want them as close as possible.  The shoulder elastic will pull a little, but that looks like a lot.  You could also try doubling up the elastic (I've never tried it, but it is another option).

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

How wide can I go on back cover strips on thighs and shins?  I know the back of thighs is supposed to be 20mm and back of shins is 25mm.

Edited by husky68
Posted
5 minutes ago, husky68 said:

How wide can I go on back cover strips on thighs and shins?  I know the back of thighs is supposed to be 20mm and back of shins is 25mm.

I wouldn’t go too much wider as it starts to become noticeable.  a few mm extra you could probably get away with but around 30mm and over it start to look too wide.  

  

Posted
3 hours ago, husky68 said:

How wide can I go on back cover strips on thighs and shins?  I know the back of thighs is supposed to be 20mm and back of shins is 25mm.

You’re right.

20mm: the front of thigh

20mm: the back of thigh

20mm: the front of shin

25mm: the back of shin

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Finished the front strip on thighs,  leaving all trimming till later after a fit test.

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Starting to work on the back strips.  Will put in V shape gap and fill like I did on the forearms.  

 

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Hi Robert. The left thigh cover strip might need to be moved up a bit so the bottom of the strip lines up with the very top of the lower ridge section. The right side thigh cover strip has the correct placement. 

 

This pic might help:

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m587/RS_Prop_Masters/RS Upper Leg Build/IMG_0861.jpg

 

The RS Props left thigh shows the cover strip position (left- original thigh/ right side-new RS thigh )

 

You might be able to delicately trim it down in its glued position but its risky. 

Edited by Bulldog44
  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Bulldog44 said:

The left thigh cover strip might need to be moved up a bit so the bottom of the strip lines up with the very top of the lower ridge section. The right side thigh cover strip has the correct placement. 

 It might be the angle of the photo,  seemed more lined up when I worked on it last night.  No worries if I need to cut a little off because top has extra to be removed later.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Finished the cover strips on the back of thighs,  will trim them later during fitting check.  I can pull them up high enough to almost need no trimming in the back.  Likely I will have to trim later for mobility and follow the *NEW* description in the CRL for higher levels.

 

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Took an evening looking at the shins and taped them up with black boots on to see fit.  Appears I will need a similar V gap that I have been using on all other pieces.  Not sure if I will try velcro or magnets but starting with the front strips first.  Will also need early hot bath as the pieces are not aligned front and back without a lot of force.

 

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Posted

Work continues..

 

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   Still debating what to do in the back,  velcro or magnets, and how to deal with the additional V gap I will need to add.

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I've been working on the side connection between ab and kidney.  Not wanting to put any stress on the rivets I looked for a method not using them.  I decided to try something different making a locking system with my 2mm abs strips.  Difficult to cut and shown to others comments were surprise and concern over durability.  I will likely add to the thickness and increase the holding section which should give enough strength.  I even have design for a sliding locking pin to include a magnet for movement,  so this is not the finished product.

 

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  • Like 2
Posted

Nice work, I've never really found any stress on the rivet areas but top marks it's a nice design.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

On Saturday there was a local armor party which I am always happy to join.  This time I asked for help with making my belt,  which seemed daunting to me as it involved punching holes in my belt and armor.  We started by setting the snaps into my armor for the butt and kidney sections,  holes already drilled by Mark at AP. 

 

   Then we adjusted the belt to sit at the back with proper overlap and maybe some room to expand along with my weight if needed.  Following advice from wook1138,  I changed the snap location measurement from 59mm to 40mm which seemed much better for alignment on AP armor.  I took the nervous step of punching the holes into the belt and using tape with pencil rubbing combined with some extra pencil markings I found the right spot to set snaps into the belt.

 

NYHwhap.jpg

 

Then I put the center hole into the belt and lined it up with my center mark.  Using a members rivet gun I nervously locked the abs to the belt,  the rivets did not come out too clean but they should hold well enough and will be covered with those dome caps.  I was also reminded to give the belt a natural bend when placing the side rivets so the belt when worn would not be under extra stress.

 

JdowZ9F.jpg

 

  The position is good but I would have ideally wanted it a fraction higher on the button panel.  If this becomes a problem I might consider using a magnet as seen in Simes's ANH TK Build to get it up that last little bit.  Also the photo angle is slightly from above,  so a more straight on shoot might look better aligned.

Edited by husky68
  • Like 3
Posted

Great work Robert! The belt can be a bit challenging to get it right but you went fir it and it turned out well. Good research and planning. 

Posted

I was also able to borrow a ultrasonic cutter from one of the local members.  Anyone that makes a lot of armor should consider buying one,  cuts abs like a hot knife through butter.  I trimmed some of my cover strips and got my drop boxes down to the recommended sizes.

 

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