Mayo's ANH Stunt (AP) build

[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

Alright! One ear down, I think. Zero return edge!

As predicted, it opened up the gap a lot more. Frighteningly, it opened it enough to reveal the cap underneath. Ew!

 

To remedy this, I had to once again change where the screw hole is to pull the ear tighter to the helmet. This is the same ear (right ear) in which I earlier had to drill a second screw hole and filled in the original with PlasticWeld. The best look came from clamping the ear down and drilling a hole right at the bottom edge, where the S-trim covers.

 

 

 

Thankfully, Mark sent a set of helmet screws with the kit, so I had a second set in addition to the ones from TrooperBay's helmet kit. Because the CRL requires a screw near the bottom of the ear, I cut one of my extra screws so I could glue it in the old, unused screw hole and fulfill the aesthetic requirement while the structural screw remains hidden beneath the S-trim.

 

 

And the result! Still a bigger gap than before, but no return edge. Cutting off all that plastic felt like jumping into deep, cold water. Thanks for the push! I find my previous lack of faith disturbing. On to the left ear!

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I suppose it's all down to perspective and how picky you really want to be, there does appear a difference between Hero and Stunt as show below, Hero vocoder appears a little narrower and the tiers (steps) are a little lower on the sides. Stunt appears fuller.

 

 

 

 

Han and Luke's helmets do appear to have a little more paint in the centre top of the vocoder and the side of the tiers (steps) appear a little lower in the below image when compared to Stunt versions

 

 

No matter what though Brendan your touch up to the vocoder looks a lot better now, good work.

[ABS80]

what happened is that you drilled bottom holes based on all the extra material you left so your bottom holes were off after you correctly trimmed the ears, If you ever decide to get new ears pieces let me know, I can even trim them for you, 

 

Mark (AP)

Edited January 2, 2019 by ABS80

[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

Just now, ABS80 said:

If you ever decide to get new ears pieces let me know, I can even trim them for you.

 

Mark (AP)

Sure thing, although I don't think new and/or professionally trimmed ears would fare any differently than mine are now. As far as I can tell, because of the shape of how my helmet came together, I'll have to be dealing with either a gap, or return edge. Based on my photos above, do you think more work needs to be done? Unfortunately I don't think I can do anything else without ordering a new helmet and starting over (and possibly shrinking my head). :-( 

 

If there is anything else I can do with what I have, of course I'm open to hearing it. 

[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

Hi again! I've finished both ears. And the result:

 

 

Like I said, I'm pretty sure this is the best I can do. Is anything about this going to be a barrier to Centurion?

Thanks for all of your ongoing help, everyone!

[Frank75139[501st]]

Looking really nice. I know it seemed like a lot for just ears but they look great.


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[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

26 minutes ago, Frank75139 said:

Looking really nice. I know it seemed like a lot for just ears but they look great.


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Thanks, Frank!

I don't mind the work! It's just that constant, naggy fear of botching something up beyond repair. I dunno what I'd do if that happened—I don't speak botchi!

[Frank75139[501st]]

Thanks, Frank!

I don't mind the work! It's just that constant, naggy fear of botching something up beyond repair. I dunno what I'd do if that happened—I don't speak botchi!

Most of everyone’s mess ups are fixable. Some are just more extensive or require new parts. Most suppliers have stuff handy to sell if needed.


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[ABS80]

2 hours ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

Sure thing, although I don't think new and/or professionally trimmed ears would fare any differently than mine are now. As far as I can tell, because of the shape of how my helmet came together, I'll have to be dealing with either a gap, or return edge. Based on my photos above, do you think more work needs to be done? Unfortunately I don't think I can do anything else without ordering a new helmet and starting over (and possibly shrinking my head). :-( 

 

If there is anything else I can do with what I have, of course I'm open to hearing it. 

Looks much much better, great job!

[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

Looks much much better, great job!

Thanks! :-D Woohoo!


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[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

On 1/2/2019 at 5:22 AM, Bud Spaklur said:

Good job!


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Thank you! And thanks for all your help, Matt. :-D I appreciate it!

 

Today it's on to the thermal detonator! Here is the photo I'm using as a reference, courtesy of Ukswrath (I think): 

 

First, I cut and trimmed the white pieces to the measurements depicted above.

 

 

Without trimming the black PVC tube, the overal length was just under 8 1/4"—almost an inch too long. I marked the new length on the pipe, and cut and sanded it to size.

 

 

Now the overall length is the desired 7 1/4". Huzzah!
 

 

 

Then I placed the clips, drilled the screw holes, and slid the screws in to loosely hold them in place

 

 

Quick side note: during my preparations I read that Centurion certification requires a very specific, round, pan-head, slotted screw that has been painted black. Tracking those down was one of the most interesting and challenging parts of my quest. T'weren't none in sight at Home Hardware and Canadian Tire. My efforts online produced no fruit until, lo and behold, mine eyes fell upon a site called Fastenal—an industrial supply store. Hark! What's more, their office was in mine own little town of St. Thomas, Ontario! What luck! For a mere two dollars, they special ordered the screws for me. And there I was, black paint in hand, until—

 

Turns out Mark includes them pre-painted with his AP thermal det clips! 

 

 

Thanks Mark! You're the best. And my little quest was fun and rewarding all the same—no time wasted where enjoyment was had. 

 

Back to the build. I taped the front plate into position and used a pencil to trace the edges, as well as those of the clips.

 

 

Once marked, I removed all the hardware and put down a first coat of grey paint.

 

 

 

And that's where she sits now, paint a-drying. As always, critique is hugely appreciated. Thanks everyone! Talk soon.

Edited August 19, 2020 by MakeNoiseMan
grammar

[wook1138[TK]]

25 minutes ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

Turns out Mark includes them pre-painted with his AP thermal det clips!

Those are the wrong screws in the kit.  Canadian Tire does have the right ones - they are brass pan head machine screws - hard to find.  Don't sell the screws you ordered just yet.

[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

Just now, wook1138 said:

Those are the wrong screws in the kit.  Canadian Tire does have the right ones - they are brass pan head machine screws - hard to find.  Don't sell the screws you ordered just yet.

Ooo! Okay, thanks for the heads up. I guess I never actually compared them to the ones I ordered, I just saw that these were painted black and didn't think twice about it. Back to Plan A!

[wook1138[TK]]

This is what I found at Canadian Tire:

 

The #6-32 brass slotted pan head (on the right).  I grabbed the 3/8” long one but 1/2” is what Mark had used. This bolt has the same thread as Marks so you can use the same nut. 

[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

Oh yes, once they're side by side I can clearly see the difference. Silly me!

 

 

Do they need to be brass? They didn't have that option when I ordered them, but I didn't think it would matter since they would be painted black.

[wook1138[TK]]

3 minutes ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

 

Do they need to be brass? They didn't have that option when I ordered them, but I didn't think it would matter since they would be painted black.

  Nope.  Just painted black.  Brass is all I could find at Canadian Tire. 

[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

Just now, wook1138 said:

  Nope.  Just painted black.  Brass is all I could find at Canadian Tire. 

Solid. Thanks for your help!

The fewest I could order was 10, so I'll have 6 left over. The offer still stands if anyone is in need of them—no charge. Just get ahold of me privately with your address and such. :-)

[wook1138[TK]]

You are very welcome, Brendan.

Oh, one more thing.  For the back part of your aluminum clips, you will want to round the corners a little bit and give them a little bend (see below).  This makes it easier to get it on your belt.

 

[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

1 minute ago, wook1138 said:

You are very welcome, Brendan.

Oh, one more thing.  For the back part of your aluminum clips, you will want to round the corners a little bit and give them a little bend (see below).  This makes it easier to get it on your belt.

 

Awesome, yes I've seen others do that! What is the best way to create that little bend? I don't work with tools or metal very often.

 

Also, I've seen others suggest to put a strip of soft velcro along the back of the clips to prevent them from scratching your armour (which is a great idea). Just wondering, does anyone ever add hook velcro to the back of the abdomen plate to help keep the thermal detonator attached and in place? Or does that cause other problems, like difficulty sliding it under the belt, for instance.

[Frank75139[501st]]

Awesome, yes I've seen others do that! What is the best way to create that little bend? I don't work with tools or metal very often.
 
Also, I've seen others suggest to put a strip of soft velcro along the back of the clips to prevent them from scratching your armour (which is a great idea). Just wondering, does anyone ever add hook velcro to the back of the abdomen plate to help keep the thermal detonator attached and in place? Or does that cause other problems, like difficulty sliding it under the belt, for instance.

I’ve seen people try it on Scouts only to take it off because it causes issues when removing it. I’ve personally never lost mine but I’m still fairly new so I’m sure it is possible. I have mine wrapped in leftover felt fabric, same concept just softer. As for the little bend I bought mine premade, but it’s a thin metal so I’d say if you wrap it around the the TD for the big bend, screw it in, then place a pencil or screwdriver in there for the little bend it should work but again I’m newer so I’m sure you’ll get a few ideas on it.


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[wook1138[TK]]

15 minutes ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

Awesome, yes I've seen others do that! What is the best way to create that little bend? I don't work with tools or metal very often.

 

Also, I've seen others suggest to put a strip of soft velcro along the back of the clips to prevent them from scratching your armour (which is a great idea). Just wondering, does anyone ever add hook velcro to the back of the abdomen plate to help keep the thermal detonator attached and in place? Or does that cause other problems, like difficulty sliding it under the belt, for instance.

I have a vice in the garage - so I just stuck an end in there and give it a quick bend.  I'm not creative enough to think of another way to do it.   As for the Velcro - you will want your TD to move with your belt, so I'd be hesitant to add hook Velcro to the armour - plus it would make it really hard to get it on while dressing.  I've never had an issue with the TD working its way off the belt.

[MakeNoiseMan[TK]]

Thanks guys! Makes sense.

I just want to confirm - the bend goes away from the TD, yeah? That’s what it looks like in the photo to me, but I want to make sure that my eyes aren’t playing tricks on me, heheh.


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[wook1138[TK]]

4 minutes ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

Thanks guys! Makes sense.

I just want to confirm - the bend goes away from the TD, yeah? That’s what it looks like in the photo to me, but I want to make sure that my eyes aren’t playing tricks on me, heheh.


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Yeah.  Here is a pic of the profile from the RS suit.  If you click the pic and follow the link, you will end up at the RS gallery - there are a bunch of reference shots of screen used armour.

 

 

[CableGuy[TK]]

18 hours ago, troopermaster said:

Hi Dan,

 

I read your post as Brendan needed to change the vocoder paint to match a stunt rather than a hero. The truth is there is no specific style to paint the vocoder regardless of being a stunt or hero helmet, As you can see on both Han and Luke's hero helmets. both vocoders are painted quite full. I'm just trying to keep up with you guys as I build lots of these helmets for people and I don't want them being knocked back because of CRL rules I am unaware of.

 

Hi Paul,

 

No worries. I always try to be careful with my wording but apologies if it came across wrong. I agree that there is not a defining “hero” vocoder. Stunt does appear to have a consistently full style which Brendan has now done. 

Always appreciate your input. 

16 hours ago, MakeNoiseMan said:

Hi again! I've finished both ears. And the result:

 

 

Like I said, I'm pretty sure this is the best I can do. Is anything about this going to be a barrier to Centurion?

Thanks for all of your ongoing help, everyone!

Awesome job on the ears and vocoder!! You’re making great progress. 

 

Regarding the tube stripes, you’re not a million miles of so we wouldn’t penalise you for it. When you apply for EIB and Centurion, you will likely find myself or one of the other Deployment Officers ‘suggesting’ that the tube stripes would ideally be approximately a pencil width from the cheek. 

 

Keep up the great work, Trooper. 

[TheSwede[TK]]

Just an FYI regarding the tube stripes: they are beeing revised for 2019 CRL update and the suggestion is that for Centurion they will need to be no more than a standard pencil width from the cheek. It’s not implemented yet but it’s likely it will.