Any hope for my old ME E-11?

[Skywise[501st]]

I thought my kids made this disappear, but I found my 28 year old resin E-11 at last.  Is there any hope of rehabilitating or modifying it for at least basic approval?  I know the muzzle and end cap is wrong, I'll have to lose the silly "coat hanger" wire retainer for the end cap.  I like modeling, so am perfectly fine with hacking off incorrect parts and replacing them, if I know where to find them.  Any advice appreciated. 

[Dracotrooper]

Hi there, took a brief look at this website:
http://databank.501st.com/databank/Template:CRLgeneric-e11

I think you're mostly good, so long as you replace the coat hanger one with one that is the same of a d-ring.

I didn't read on any requirement for front sight block and pin or muzzle screws. I didn't see these on your picture. You may be good here.

Oh, and exposed bolt is required too on the other profile of the blastef, which you likely have being a resin build.

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

[Skywise[501st]]

Thanks.  I will study that site.   Unfortunately the "bolt" is actually the handle of a part of the cheesy electronics, which I intend to lose.   No muzzle screws and it lacks the "crescent moon" feature.  Is there somewhere I can purchase the parts that are incorrect or missing?

[Dracotrooper]

Maybe someone whose submitted their E-11 for approval will chime in soon; I have yet to submit and don't want to steer you in the wrong direction.

Great folks here; it'll be soon!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Some good news for ya', Dave...  E-11s are not a requirement for basic approval, only for EI and above.  (See bottom of this post).  Besides the wire/item on the side it is connected to, the charging handle, end cap itself and perhaps the bolt opening you are actually in pretty good overall shape for level 2!

 

Resin builds have come quite a long way, and there are replacement parts available that can be 3D printed.   Don't worry if you don't actually have a 3D printer, though, there are services online that can to it inexpensively, and many folks here offer the files for free, like this:

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45065-anh-e-11-blaster-files/  If there are any you can't find, just ask.

 

You can also have them made in cast aluminum, but those are pricier:  (I used this eBay seller to replace a ton of parts on my resin build).

------------

 

I hope this helps, and here is a thread that should give you some more details/guidance:

 

FISD Blaster reference guide-  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/

 

 

E-11 requirements as needed for EI and Centurion:

 

OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

Edited September 15, 2022 by gmrhodes13
link removed no longer working

[T-Jay[TK]]

Exactly what Joseph said. Would suggest to focus on the outstanding issues first. Maybe you also find a stripe of aluminum to recreate that trigger guard.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

I can actually hook you up with a few of the items you will need, Dave (no charge).  I have the flash guard, ejection port guard and charging handle made in black resin.  You will need to drill a hole in the front of the barrell for the flash guard to be mounted next to, though.  If interested, just PM me your shipping info.

 

    

[Skywise[501st]]

What was the issue with the rear sight?  Also, I'm sure the power cylinders aren't correct.   Years ago, I sanded off the casting lines, and now they're not even round (cylindrical).  Where can I find replacements?  Mine are screwed on, so replacing them will be easy.

Edited January 2, 2019 by Skywise

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

3 hours ago, Skywise said:

What was the issue with the rear sight?  Also, I'm sure the power cylinders aren't correct.  

Sorry, I forgot to clarify that, Dave.  Ideally, the scope rail should extend all the way back and connect to the top of the rear sight, BUT... I see that the scope, rail and mount appear to be one piece so this would be difficult (and not really necessary) to do.  This is the way most were done, however, there are exceptions that were made just as yours is as seen in the screen cap at the far right below.  I'd say you are good to go!