TheSwede’s Replica build

[TheSwede[TK]]

8 hours ago, TheLorelei said:

Have you taken it into different lights to see how the shade of khaki changes?

Yepp

8 hours ago, TheLorelei said:

Maybe that would help you decide.

Nope - still on the fence about it (actually not that frustrated but it´s a funny emoji)

[TheSwede[TK]]

8 hours ago, troopermaster said:

Masking fluid has always given me good results for the chipping effect. I'm assuming that's what you're looking to do?

Yes and I´ll have a think about it, thanks for the tip

[wook1138[TK]]

Hi Daniel,

This might have been mentioned already, but... if you sand the back part with really fine sandpaper, the colour should lighten.  Plus, it would be more matte like the reference helmet.

 

And I second Paul on the liquid mask.  Stuff is great for the chipped effect - plus it gives you awesome control of the shape and size of the chip.  Depending on the paint/surface you use, it may even leave a pealed effect or tears along the edge of the paint.  Worth a test at least.

 

Interesting thread, btw.

Edited January 18, 2019 by wook1138

[TheSwede[TK]]

2 hours ago, wook1138 said:

Hi Daniel,

This might have been mentioned already, but... if you sand the back part with really fine sandpaper, the colour should lighten.  Plus, it would be more matte like the reference helmet.

 

And I second Paul on the liquid mask.  Stuff is great for the chipped effect - plus it gives you awesome control of the shape and size of the chip.  Depending on the paint/surface you use, it may even leave a pealed effect or tears along the edge of the paint.  Worth a test at least.

 

Interesting thread, btw.

Not mentioned but I tried that and the ”lumpiness” of the RS helmet made it difficult to achieve a good effect and I didn’t want to smooth it out by sanding any more. I’m going to do a dust-spray between the two and see how that works. I will test the ”dropping-method” first and if that doesen’t work I have plan B ready

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

If you hit the whole paint with wirewool 00000 you should be able to dull it and lighten it at the same time very easily. Wirewool is, like its name sugest, wool-like, so it's very convenient for buffing uneven surfaces.

 

You can also just apply one or two layers of a flat clearcoat to change the finish of your paint.

[TheSwede[TK]]

3 hours ago, The5thHorseman said:

If you hit the whole paint with wirewool 00000 you should be able to dull it and lighten it at the same time very easily. Wirewool is, like its name sugest, wool-like, so it's very convenient for buffing uneven surfaces. 

 

You can also just apply one or two layers of a flat clearcoat to change the finish of your paint.

Thanks for the tip, I did the dust-spray earlier today and was content with the result but I will use the flat clearcoat approach

 

[TheSwede[TK]]

Here´s the result of the dust-spray test and I´m happy with it

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Nice one!

 

And like the others suggest, if you end up deciding to go with a chipping effect for the paintjob, you will kind of have to use masking fluid. Because if the paint flaked like it did on the original helmets, it is greatly due to the HDPE surface underneath that doesn't adhere well with paint at all. Very difficult plastic to paint over. You will probably never be able to achieve the same flaking effect with an ABS helmet.

But if you don't have any masking fluid at hand I've heard of people using toothpaste or mustard with good results too.

Edited January 21, 2019 by The5thHorseman

[TheSwede[TK]]

Well...I guess I surrender then - masking fluid it is

[TheSwede[TK]]

After some layers of flat clear coat had time to cure I test-assambled the helmet and now I´m not sure if I wan´t to paint it or use it as a display

Like the originals I placed the seam of the s-trim in the back.

[troopermaster]

What's the purpose of the clear coat?

 

It looked better with the flat finish you achieved on the dome/back plate. The same could have been done to the face plate too.  I'm really digging the two-tone colour 

[TheSwede[TK]]

9 hours ago, troopermaster said:

What's the purpose of the clear coat?

 

It looked better with the flat finish you achieved on the dome/back plate. The same could have been done to the face plate too.  I'm really digging the two-tone colour 

To protect the paint when handling the helmet, to see if the shine got reduced which is did and I have the notion that the white (if I paint) will adhere less making the scratching easier although I now have some masking gum

Really liking it too, so much so I might just leave it and get another helmet for this build

[TheSwede[TK]]

After some serious back and forth I decided to go ahead with original plan and added the masking gum and white paint, a bit too white but decided to go the lenght and see how well it works with the rest of the armor ones all the other details been added. If way to off then a re-paint is on the table

 

Maybe added to much but can always paint over with a brush.

 

[Sly11[Admin]]

Very cool indeed Daniel

[TheSwede[TK]]

20 minutes ago, Sly11 said:

Very cool indeed Daniel

Thanks Andy I painted the vocoder...

 

….and now he keeps me company while I´m on here

[TheSwede[TK]]

Got some painting done - tubes and pin stripes next

[CableGuy[Admin]]

That’s a beautiful lid.

Seeing an RS lid like this really highlights the difference between the higher accuracy lids and some of the lower end offerings. To me, this is worth every penny. :-)

[TheSwede[TK]]

4 hours ago, CableGuy said:

That’s a beautiful lid.

Seeing an RS lid like this really highlights the difference between the higher accuracy lids and some of the lower end offerings. To me, this is worth every penny. :-)

Thanks Dan and I look forward seeing your replica helmet

[TheSwede[TK]]

Helmet done